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Routes as trad in Valley of the Ten Peaks

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Grand Sentinel
5.9 South Face
1 5.5 15m
2 5.7 20m
3 5.8 30m
4 5.9 25m

This is the most likely candidate for a first ascent up the tower by an unknown party, pre-1960. Great climbing throughout with a lot of opportunity to practice your jamming technique but many face climbing options for those who prefer not to. Each pitch is equipped with bolted anchors.

The easiest way of finishing the route is via a 5.5 variation by climbing up and left to the outside edge but the 5.9 direct finish is highly recommended for those who climb the grade.

Descend by rapping the route but be courteous to parties that may be below you.

Trad 90m
Tower of Babel
5.8 NW Direct
1 5.2 25m
2 5.5 40m
3 5.6 40m
4 5.7 45m
5 5.2 30m
6 5.5 45m
7 5.5 40m
8 Class 4 70m
9 5.8 55m

This climb starts at the bottom of the cliff and does not involve hiking up the gully, and then walking back left along the treed ledge. If you do this you skip the first pitch.

The described pitches 6-9 are the regular finish for the Greenwood-Boles Route (pitches 5-8 of that route).

FA: Hamish Mutch & Lloyd MacKay, 1963

Trad 390m

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