Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Falaises de Brauch Arête ouest | |||||
3c | Lou pas dei pitchou
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5a | Draio senso brut
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5a+ | La draio de la sousto
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5b | Faire la crespo
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6b+ | Rassegura
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5a | Laurette
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4c | Vers leis estello (directe)
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4c+ | Vers leis estello
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4c+ | Le pas de Santan
Watch for loose rocks Set: Jean Binder et Nicolas Gros (2010) | ||||
Falaises de Brauch Dalle bleue | |||||
4c+ | L’oubliado
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5c+ | La laouvo
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6b+ | ★★ Billot Man
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6b | Rompe-cuou
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7a+ | De la crespo au crespeou
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6c+ | Psychoprises
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6c | Senso peno
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6a | Dins lei nielo
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4a+ | Lou niou
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5c | ★ De toit à moi
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5a+ | ★★ Lei pied au caou
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5a | ★★ O pécaïre
| 17m, 6 | |||
4b | ★ Como lou niero
| 16m, 5 | |||
5b | ★ Tranquille
| 16m, 8 | |||
Falaises de Brauch Dalle des drôles | |||||
4a+ | Tambien lei viei
| 13m, 6 | |||
5b+ | Le chercheur d'or
| 15m, 7 | |||
6a+ | Lou niou dins les estello
| 12m, 5 | |||
7a | ★★ Attrape-moi si tu peux
| 12m, 5 | |||
5b | Tee-shirt en décembre
| 12m, 4 | |||
3c+ | Per lei drole
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Chateauvert Neuromediation | |||||
6b | Béréchit
| 12m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★ Bonze a l'aize
| 35m, 12 | |||
6c | ★★ Neuromediation
Magnificent and committing. Set: Philippe Bugada, 1995 | 38m, 10 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Les hirondelles sont de retour
Weird move before a continuous section. Set: Philippe Bugada, 1995 | 38m, 12 | |||
6b | ★ La salamandre
1
6a+
2
6b
Same start as Les Hirondelles then head right. View on the Argens from the second pitch. Set: Guigo & Gorgeon, 1996 | 55m, 2, 9 | |||
6b | ★★★ La salamandre 2
| 25m, 8 | |||
5a | ★ Un hiver sans fin
| 27m, 9 | |||
Chateauvert La Grande Face | |||||
6b | ★★ Arielle
Exceptional but not easy. Set: Daniel Guigo, 1996 | 38m, 11 | |||
6b | ★★ La Poursuite du Gri Gri
Watch for rope drag. Set: Guigo & Gorgeon, 1996 | 38m, 12 | |||
6b+ | ★★ L'esprit du rat
Same start as Beatitude. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 28m, 10 | |||
7a | ★★ Beatitube
Committed. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 26m, 7 | |||
8b | ★ Sweet Smoke
Set: Patrick Taton, 1993 | 28m, 6 | |||
8b+ | ★★★ Are you ready?
Nice line Set: Jean-Marc Roman | 28m, 6 | |||
7b | Azur
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 20m | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Les Frontierres du neant
Continuous and a surprise. Set: Jean-Marc Roman, 1996 | 28m, 7 | |||
Project | O'Terren
Currently being developed. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 20m | |||
project | Lueurs bleues
Currently being developed Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 20m | |||
7c | Le Moutouki
Not currently bolted. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier | 31m | |||
8a | Le Moutouki direct
Not bolted. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier | 35m | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Les Courleurs du Charme
Short intense section, then sustained. Set: Jean-Marc Roman, 1996 | 30m, 10 | |||
7a | ★★★ Le magicien d'Oz (direct)
A little bit harder than the dihedral variation. Set: S. Jaulin | 30m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ Le magicien d'Oz (par le diedre)
Via the dihedral. Positioning! Set: Serge Jaulin | 30m, 10 | |||
7a | ★★ Yellow shark
2nd pitch, possible after 'Le Magicien de Oz' Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 18m, 6 | |||
7a | ★ Autisme
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 19m, 6 | |||
7a+ | ★ Entropie
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 20m, 6 | |||
8a+ | ★ La Femme Fatale
Tough on the fingers. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 33m, 10 | |||
8a+ | ★ Jazzogene
Unreal rock! 80m rope mandatory. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 11 | |||
7c+ | ★ Marabout
1
7c
29m
2
7c+
16m
Often wet, glued holds... Set: Jean-Marc Troussier | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
8a | ★ Les Soeurs "Trou-Trou"
Sustained, glued holds. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 45m, 14 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Abolition des Privileges
1
7a+
26m
2
7b+
19m
At L1 anchors continue slightly right and straight up. Legendary boulder problem. Liking the two pitches together is 7c. Set: Serge Jaulin | 45m, 2, 14 | |||
7c | ★★★ Le Grand
Climb Abolition Des Privileges L1. At anchors head left past several deep 2 finger pockets and up. Set: S. Jaulin | 38m, 14 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Le Diktateur
Athletic climbing and varied holds. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 30m, 10 | |||
8a | ★ La Forteresse du Vide
Variation of Le Diktateur going left. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 45m, 15 | |||
7b | ★ Toreador, prends garde
Boulder problem is often damp. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 19m | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Le Signe du Taureau
1
7b+
2
7a
Sustained with two cruxes. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 41m, 2, 13 | |||
7c+ | Lena Buuddha
1
7b+
2
7c+
Glued and chipped holds, often wet. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 2, 15 | |||
7c | ★★ Kanao
1
7a+
2
7c
Delicate mantle move on pitch 1. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 45m, 13 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Le Grande Neurone
Two cruxes on glued holds. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 13 | |||
8a | ★ La Soif du Mal
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 14 | |||
7c+ | ★ Quinoa
Hard to read. Glued, chipped holds. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 13 | |||
7c | ★ Tchernobyl
Lots of chipped holds. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 32m, 11 | |||
7b+ | ★★ Faux Mouvements
1
7a
12m
2
7b+
40m
First pitch is not bolted. Second pitch is good - start from the anchors of Tchernobyl. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier | 52m, 2 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Tiane Mobylette
Slab, sustained, committing. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 11 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Mercurius
Same start as Tiane, then right. Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 12 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Corto Balese
Section on sloppers. Very technical and committing. Set: Robert Cortijo & J.M Roman | 40m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ Le Chmatex
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996 | 40m, 13 | |||
7b | ★★ Fleur carnivore
| 39m, 12 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Turbulences
| 38m, 12 | |||
7c+ | La Disparition
| 38m, 9 | |||
6c+ | Abécédaire
| 38m, 12 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Habitus
| 37m | |||
Chateauvert La Ruine Serpelin | |||||
6a | ★★★ Therese Troika
Committing last moves. Set: Y. Clave, 1989 | 27m, 8 | |||
6b | ★ Red Cross
Good sustained route. Set: Y. Clave, 1989 | 25m, 10 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Serpelin
Very sustained. Set: Serge Jaulin & Daniel Guigo, 1995 | 25m, 9 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Nagas Babas
Intense start and finish. | 28m | |||
6c+ | ★★ Destination Liberte
Interesting destination on which you'll have to "close your arms". Set: Y. Clave, 1989 | 30m, 9 | |||
6b | ★★ Embraye
Athletic start and easy finish. Set: Y. Clave, 1989 | 25m, 8 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Strawberry Nose
Bouldery. Careful when descending - tie a knot at the end of your rope. Set: Y. Clave, 1989 | 25m, 9 | |||
Chateauvert La Ruine Nuage | |||||
6c | ★★ Figue Molle
| 35m, 12 | |||
6b | ★★ Un quart d'heure de folie
Beautiful route. | 35m, 11 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Nuage
Boulder start and a splendid route. | 30m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★ Australie
A bit weird. Follow the bolts. The closer to the bolts the harder it is. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1995 | 25m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★★ Cabriole
Route finding and continuity on this one. | 32m, 10 | |||
6c | ★★★ La Liberte c'est pas la porte a cote
Varied climbing and exposed finish. | 32m, 11 | |||
7b+ | ★ Patagonie
Crux on a mono that has been chipped. | 31m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★★ Cap Horn
Interesting until the last moves. | 31m, 9 | |||
Chateauvert La Ruine Igloo | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Igloo
The chipped hold is optional. | 30m, 11 | |||
7a | ★★ Terre du Feu
Same start as Igloo then right in the columns. | 30m, 10 | |||
7a | ★★★ Transmutation
Hard to onsight. Varied climbing with a section on columns. | 35m, 10 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Border Line
Highest route in the area - careful with rope length. An intermediate belay station can be used for the descent if necessary | 40m, 13 | |||
Chateauvert La Ruine Recidive | |||||
7a+ | Norbert et les Ayatollahs
| 10m, 4 |