Routes as trad in West Coast

1. Climb the corner to a roof (as for Wakeling-Bird). Traverse left for a few meters until able to exit left into the break at the base of the crack using creative moves. Move up 2m to a stance.

2. Climb the crack strenuously until reaching a blank offwidth section after about 15m. Step left and climb a short face to a small ledge (may be better to stance here). Step right back into the crack and climb it for 3m until it fades, reaching a small alcove.

3. Move diagonally up and right towards the tree. Climb up past the tree using some pockets, until reaching easier ground. Traverse right under the roof until standing directly above the anchors of Big Fish (they are on an obvious ledge below you at this point).

Descent: roped scramble down to the anchors, first tending right, then back left. Abseil (35m). Alternatively, it may be more pleasant to extend this route and climb one more pitch up the diagonal crack to reach the abseil fig tree of Wakeling-Bird. It may also be possible to directly reach the anchors of Blue Train further right instead of scrambling down.

Climb the corner to a roof. Step right. Continue up past aloe to stance on a ledge. Continue up for 1-2 more pitches more or less straight up. No anchors at the top, but there is some abseil-tat around the fig tree at the top (take back up).

Climb the large open book crack to a bolted stance under the roof.

Start as or Set controls, climb the finger crack on the left wall at midway. Bolted stance. To be bolted.

Start just right of the wide chimney,2m right of 'Set controls for the heart of the sun'. Climb the crack leading right and then the face to a bolted stance. (Can be bolted, needs ~10 bolts)

Climb the layback crack in the corner to a bolted stance.

P1: Climb the crack to a bolted stance on the left. P2: Climb up past 2 bolts to the top.

Climb the hand crack through the small roof. Continue up to a bolted stance.

P2:(22/23)Trad. FFA: G.Bird & J.Wakeling 2019. Second pitch continues straight up to the top. No anchors at the top.

Climb up a crack for 2m, step 2m right to the next crack system. Follow this to the top to a bolted stance. 30m

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P1: 30m, (17). Start on the prow 5m to the left of the start of Vulture Culture. Climb up to the next ledge system and continue up the orange open book to a ledge.

P2: 30m (21). Start on the left-hand end of the ledge. Pull up to a rail. A difficult move leads up to the next rail (small cams and nuts). Move 2m left to where pockets lead up to good hand-holds that can be followed left-wards to a vertical crack (green BD cam). Climb up, moving further left onto the prow before coming back onto the right face and continuing up easier ground to stance on a ledge on the prow with a big jammed block.

P3: 30m (17). Continue straight up a crack system to the big lunch ledge. From here the next pitch starts 30m to the right (past a dassie traverse).

P4: 30m (16). Start at the base of an off-width crack in an open book. Climb the open book crack to a ledge. Continue up the corner to a stance on a second ledge next to a tree.

P5: 30m (18). From the stance, traverse 3m right on good rails to a vertical crack. Follow this to a ledge.

P6: 30m (17). Follow the crack system to the top.

Start: This route climbs up the large brown open-book system on the left-hand side of the wall.

P1: 30m (19). Climb the recess to a ledge, continue up the crack at the centre of the open-book to a large ledge.

P2: 30m (20). Continue up the crack until forced left under the roof. Delicate moves lead to a ledge stance on the left-hand edge of the large roof.

P3: 35m (17). Climb up the corner and continue straight up to the lunch ledge.

P4: 35m (17). Climb up the crack system nearest to the arette, directly above the last pitch. After 15m, cross over to the right hand side of the arette to a scoop. Continue up, passing by the left hand end of the prominent triangular roof visible from the base of the cliff.

P5: 30m (15). Continue straight up to the top.

P1: 35m (17). Start up the corner system 5m to the right of Vulture Culture. Climb up to a ledge and continue straight up the crack system to where it is topped by a small roof. Move 1m left to a Hanging stance.

P2: 30m (23). Move up into a corner, step right above the roof and then move back left into a crack . Follow this up to a stance below the prominent chimney/slot.

P3. 30m (18). Climb up the chimney/slot. At the top, move 2m right, pull through the overlap into a crack and follow this to stance at a ledge.

P4. 30m (17). Move 5m left. Climb the vertical recess leading up to the lunch ledge.

P5. 20m (19). At the top of P4 is a face with a set of vertical cracks. Climb the vertical crack second from the right hand edge of the face to a ledge.

P6. 15m (17). Move left to a crack system and continue 3m up to a stance.

P7. Climb up the face and traverse left into the large chimney system. Continue to the top.

P1: 17

P2: 21

P3: 16

P4: 18

Approach: When reaching Vingerkop from the viewpoint at the neck, keep walking aroung the buttress counter clockwise for about 50m.

Aspect: Pleasant climbing following an obvious natural line. Enjoy the morning shade when the rest of the valley is blasted by the sun.

1. A couple meters right of an orange pillar is a crack and a shallow recess. Climb the recess moving slightly left until you are able to step left directly into the crack. Pull through a small roof and continue moving up past some musical flakes to a stance on a narrow ledge just above them.

2. Traverse right for a few meters until it's possible to move up through the right side of the roof. Pull up at the obvious break using the large layback flake and follow it until the terrain eases. Scramble directly up to a large ledge.

3. Facing the same direction you topped out the previous pitch on, walk straight 10m on the right side of some large blocks until you find a crack directly in front of you. You will be in an alley with a huge chockstone above and left of you. Climb the hand crack until it peters out, then move slighly up left to a ledge using good but lichenous cap jugs.

Descent: A roped scramble down the gully to the your immediate left brings you back to the previous level, but on the other side of the huge chockstone (abseiling would be preferable). From there, look for the obvious thicket of tree trunks to abseil from, or a large block another level down from the trees. Abseil all the way to the ground (60m ropes).

About 20m left of the overhangs is an obvious crack splitting a face. Climb the arête to the left of this crack to the top.

The climb starts just to the right of Flight of the Swallows.

Climb the short, dark face (one or two strenuous moves) into a broad, open chimney. Climb the right-hand face of the chimney for about 10m, before traversing out right onto a grey pillar. Climb this straight to the top.

The attraction is the right-facing off-width crack left of the huge overhang (left of The Tail Wags the Dog).

Start at the beacon (cairn) and climb the crack to the top. Crux midway up.

This climb follows the crack system to the left of Symphony of Pistons.

1. Climb the shallow corner pulling through to a rail. Traverse left and climb up into a scoop below a small roof.

2. Using the crack, traverse left and then up to a small, off-balance ledge. Climb the corner crack to below a small roof. Traverse to the right and move around a corner. From here climb a sloping slab with a good crack on the right-hand side, till a good stance is reached. Step to the right across an exposed gap using a good handrail, to reach a good ledge. (This pitch may be broken into two to reduce rope drag).

3. Climb the corner, making some awkward moves, to reach the top.

The climb starts about 5m to the right of a large overhang, and ascends the main brown faces.

1. Climb the shallow, open-book to below a small roof. Traverse right and climb the corner to a large ledge.

2. Take off from the high spot on the right-hand side of the ledge. Pull through the roof to a small ledge. Climb the crack/corner to below the large roof near the top of the cliff. Traverse right below the roof, and where the roof ends, move up and exit in the corner.

This route follows the corner midway between Daisies Delight and Symphony of Pistons.

Follow the corner up the very steep wall, move right and climb up diagonally into the corner on the right. Exit on the right.

This route starts at the first left-facing corner on North Buttress.

Climb the undercut section towards the roof, lay out to the right and reach for a jug high up in the corner (crux). Climb the excellent corner above. Move out to the right underneath a huge overhang. Walk off to the right.

Starts to the right of Daisies Delight. It follows the left-hand crack on the short steep face in the descent gully.

This climb ascends the vertical face on the bottom right-hand side of the descent gully (looking from below).

1. Take off from some large blocks and climb the very vertical face until the more broken area on top of the rock rib is reached. Climb this and make a stance.

2. Climb the rock rib to easier ground.

Start to the left of the Mirage nose.

1. Go 2m up the book then diagonally right to the block on the arête.

2. Scramble to the top.

The left-hand side of Central Buttress extends out westwards in a prominent, fin shaped feature. Muscle Beach climbs the nose of this feature.

Start at the base of the undercut crack and climb the nose to the top.

Takes the obvious corner to the right of the nose.

This route starts in the second corner from the left. Beacon (cairn).

1. Move up on the ramp like corner. At the overhang move right, up and diagonally right to a small stance below a smooth corner.

2. Move up the corner, then through the small roof. Climb the following open-book/corner (crux) and then straight up to the top.

1. Climb the corner through a flared chimney. continue up the crack, moving past a plant hanging out the crack. Pull through the small roof above and make a stance.

2. Continue up the open book, moving past a loose block. At the top of the open book, step slightly right and continue easily up to the summit.

On Central Buttress there are two prominent, South facing walls (moving from left to right). This route follows a short hairline crack up the second South facing wall to a ledge.

1. Start below an obvious crack with good starting jugs and pull up strenuously into the crack. Interesting climbing follows more or less directly up to a good ledge.

2. Climb the face to a ledge under the big roof, then climb the ramp to the left, onto another ledge, and then easy climbing up the face to the top on good holds.

1. A tricky and committing start leads to the corner system. follow this up and slightly leftwards until able to mantle and make a stance.

2. Starting on the left, continue up discontinuous corners, trending right to a fair sized ledge. Climb the short crack to a large ledge in a cave feature. the next pitch starts near the right-hand edge of the cave.

3. Standing on a block, establish on the grey slabby corner. follow the slab until it steepens to vertical. mantle up and follow a short and gritty crack to the summit.

This route starts 10m left of the edge of the mini-amphitheatre.

Climb the face to a triangular overhang, through this and up the face to broken rock. Traverse right to a rapp point at the top of Cabbages and Kings corner.

This route takes the first corner to the right of the mini-amphitheatre.

1. Climb the same corner as for Unknown Route 3 but rail left before getting to the roof, then follow the break into a tricky groove and up to a big ledge below the roofs.

2. Pull through the roof to the right of the ledge, then skirt the next roof to the right and climb up to a wide ledge. Belay from the ledge then walk left to the large cave. The next pitch starts near the right-hand edge of the cave.

3. Standing on a block, establish on the grey slabby corner. Follow the slab until it steepens to vertical. Mantle up and follow a short and gritty crack to the summit.

1. Climb the corner until able to pull up onto a ledge on the right. Stance here beneath the roof.

2. Climb the short crack to gain the wide rail beneath the roof. Rail right to twin seams running up the wall. layback up the seams to a ledge.

3. Pull up onto a small ledge on the left using a pocket. step up and right, continuing diagonally right until able to go straight up to the summit.

This climb starts about 8m right of a corner, situated right of a large cave/overhang through which one walks at the base of the cliff.

1. Climb the crack, then move slightly left and climb the dark face to a large, long ledge (dirty with bid droppings).

2. Climb the corner crack to the roof, traverse left under the roof using a good handrail, till a small resting place is reached. Traverse out right (above the roof) and climb to a good ledge. Scramble up to a large platform.

3. Start behind the bushes on the right-hand side of the platform. Climb up and move diagonally left up a crack. Make a strenuous pull to reach an open-book. Climb this corner to the top.

Climb through the roof (crux) and up the crack on the left hand side of the amphitheatre.

Climb the wall, through the overlap and up the crack to a stance

Climb up the wall, through the overlap to a bolt. Up jugs to finish.

The second line from the amphitheatre edge (4m).

1. A difficult start then up the obvious break for 20m. Then move left into the book topped by a V-shaped block.

2. Above these move left for 4m then straight up to the top.

The climb starts just right of the sweeping, overhanging roofs on the extreme right-hand side of the amphitheatre.

1. Take off from the corner block, moving up and right to an obvious break. Traverse right to easier ground. Continue up and then move left into a small open-book. Climb this to reach a 'diving board' ledge.

2. Start near the end if the 'diving board'. Climb the face to a good ledge. Follow a direct line and crack system to the summit.

The climb takes the prominent crackline on the left-hand side of the dusty amphitheatre.

1. Climb the slab to the right of the crack moving into it as soon as possible. Climb this until it gets off-width, move right to a short crack and climb up this and then back left into the main crack. Climb to a ledge below an overhang, which undercuts the obvious crack one can see from the ground.

2. Pull through the roof and do a layback move to gain a rail, rail right with your feet on the lip of the overhang, to a vertical crack and climb this to where it begins to steepen. Make a belay just to the right. (Beware the cammed block at the end of the rail).

3. Continue up the crack to the top.

Descent: walk left to the min descent gully. It is not advisable to come down the first gully.

On the right-hand side of the right-hand amphitheatre is a crackline.

1. Climb the overhanging crackline to a ledge.

2. Rail right to a gritstone type arête. Climb this to the top.

Just around the corner from The Four By Four Convention is a short overhanging wall. Start on the left-hand side of the upper ledge.

Do the first few moves of Happiness and Light moving out left and up to the short wall '18'. Boulder up, past the bolt, on edges and pockets to finish on the top left-hand edge of the wall.

Note: wire placements are tricky so so it might be wise to abseil down and preplace them.

Climb the short layback crack and up through the overlap to an overhanging corner. Climb this to the top.

Start right of Happiness and Light. Climb up to a small overhang. Turn this on its right-hand side and climb up, past the bolt, to the top.

Note: protection isn't easily available above the bolt so it might be wise to abseil down first.

This route is on the extreme right-hand side of the cliff-line of South Buttress. Look for a steepish red face capped by a grey corner/groove.

About a 100m further to the right of Let's Get Physical is an obvious steep red pillar. Where the farm boundary fence terminates against the rockface, walk another 100m to the right. The route starts on a rock platform at the base of the 22m high pillar.

Climb this straight up the middle to the highest point. The crux is turning the small overhang three-quarters of the way up.

Walk along the overhanging stretch of cliffs to the right, pass an easy looking grey ramp up the middle of the face. Continue to the next easy ramp, which only goes halfway up the face. Immediately to the left of this is an overhanging corner/crack.

Start at the beacon and climb straight up, turning the overhang on the left. Scramble down on the right.

Takes the steep wall and very overhung corner/groove line left of GOT.

Start: from a little raised platform on the left of the wall.

Climb up and right on the jugs. Three pitches following the left-hand trending break into the V-corner line high on the left skyline of the wall. Aid out under the first roof system up left into the grooves at the top.

Left of the big T-Rex corner is an incredibly steep wall with a roof blocking access for most of the lower section. Scramble up to below a 10m roof and continuation crack going up the centre of the wall.

1. Climb the roof and continue up the steep wall to a ledge.

2. Start on the left and climb steep jugs into a gnarly groove which turns into a recess higher.

One of the finest lines in the country. The roof and crack immediately right of GOT, joining that route's belay ledge. The name and date are provisional, since the route has only been top-roped.

To the right of GOT is a steep corner/pillar before the main dihedral of T-Rex. The route starts immediately below the pillar in a steep corner. 1 pitch leads up the left-hand side of the pillar to a ledge. Walk right to find a gargoyle and rappel.

Just right of the main TMM pillar is a smooth wall undercut towards the right with a peg in the first rail.

1. A hard boulder problem gains the peg. Continue up the corner on the right of the flake to a ledge. Scramble up to the highest block under the roof on the right.

2. Combined tactics give access into the crack. Straight up to the next ledge.

3. Continue up the same crack to the top.

Takes the huge dihedral in the middle of the left-hand end of this section of the cliff. Start at the undercut flake right of CT, below and left of the dihedral above.

1. Rail right to the grass tuft and climb the crack to the ledge. Walk right to the crack in the dihedral.

2. Climb the crack.

3. Continue up the open-book on the right. Traverse right at the top. Walk a short way right past the overhang at the top.

4. Climb up, rail right and then back left higher onto the face. Continue diagonally left to the top.

The route climbs the wall 10-20m right of the T-rex. Start from blocks and grass between enormous blocks.

1. Climb up to a ledge.

2. Climb a rounded layback flake and go diagonally right towards a wide gully/groove. Traverse left and up grooves to a large ledge.

3. Start midway between T-Rex's crack on the left and the gully on right. Climb the steep face to a small ledge.

4. Go diagonally left and up to a steepening. Rail right and follow grooves to a ledge. Traverse left to a dassie ledge.

5. Take the first break along the ledge and climb the groove to the top.

The Subsidiary Amphitheatre left of the Gendarme is marked by huge staggered roofs 20-30m up. The left-hand roof is the largest and is terminated on its right-hand side by a large block. Start directly below this.

1. Climb to a small overhang, pull through and move left. Climb to the overhang and traverse right. Continue to a steep stepped corner to stance under a smooth open book.

2. Rail left, up a slab to a flared recess on the left-hand side of the large block beneath the roof. Climb the recess to a stance on the right.

3. Pull through the roof. Move left for 4m and straight up the overhanging wall.

4. Climb to the top.

The route starts directly below a prominent black water streak right of the big roof and finishes more or less above it.

1. Climb up and through an overlap and up to a roof. Move right, continue up a corner until able to go left to a stance.

2. Move left and climb a short, smooth open-book (Juggernaut). Exit left and continue left until able to climb back rightwards to stance at the level of the obvious rail.

3. Rail hard right for 10m and up to the next rail. Climb to a stance at the level of the obvious rail.

4. Climb diagonally right over grey rails to a hollow. Continue to an alcove.

5. Traverse left and climb up to ledges.

6. Continue to the summit.

1. Start left of Kayaman. Climb up a vague break to a small ledge. Using a fraction of Kayaman, stance at the Dassie ledge.

2. Climb right to the beginning of the rail and move directly up right, then left, and right again up to a stance.

3. Move right and diagonally left up a face to stance on the right-hand edge.

4. Rail right to a juggy break, and then diagonally leftward to the top (70m).

Left of Icthyosaurus crack is a smooth wall. A line of jugs run diagonally left to right.

1. Climb up the face to a ledge, Go diagonally left to a small overhang. Pull onto a ledge.

2. Go left, pull up on jugs and diagonally left to a handrail. Traverse right to a bucket-stance.

3. Start on the right, climb diagonally left and up. Traverse right to the skyline, over a bulge and to a stance on the right.

4. Climb diagonally right on jugs.

5. Move left through a steep rounded section to the top.

"The obvious layback crack up the amphitheatre. Mega!"

A superb route that takes the obvious crack in the grey wall left of the Gendarme. Scramble up to a higher ledge below the long overhang which blocks access directly into the crack. The route climbs the smooth face immediately right of the easy Kayaman crack.

1. From the block climb to the rail and up past more rails which lead rightwards to a long ledge. Walk right to a curved scoop.

2. Move up the scoop and back left to a rail. Go right and up before moving left to a ledge. Climb into the crack to a hanging belay just higher.

3. Climb past the roof and up the crack. Stance on the right.

4. Climb the break and wall to the top (65m).

Left of the second rappel down the Gendarme Gully is an obvious layback crack (oft tried). Start at the groove which is the next break left.

1. Pull through the groove and up to a ledge with a large block.

2. Walk 6m right to a break. Climb straight up to a ledge. Diagonal left to a stance below (Leviathan takes the left-hand side of this pillar).

3. Climb the crack to a ledge, walk right to the standard descent down the Gendarme Gully.

Start on the extreme right-hand side of Rastaman amphitheatre (the last recess on the right before the descent route).

1. Start in the big crack. Rail left to a shallow recess. Up and onto the slab above to a stance.

2. Move left and climb to the base of a pillar.

3. Climb the crack in the middle of the pillar, exit right.

4. Start far right and climb up and leftwards below a huge roof. Climb the obvious overhanging crack/bulge on jugs. Stance on the right.

5. Climb straight up to large roof, Rail left and through the roof on flakes.

The feature is a huge two thirds up the face, above which is the prow on the skyline. Scramble up the gully to a large ledge (level with the second rappel down the chimney. Traverse 20m left to a beacon.

1. Climb the face, then traverse left along the rail until able to move up and right to a ledge. Walk 10m right.

2. Climb diagonally left and to the base of a pillar.

3. Climb the chimney on the left of the pillar, continue to a small stance. Move up and left through an undercling flake to stance on blocks below the huge roof.

4. Step down and go left. Move up under the roof and rail left to the lip. Pull through to a stance.

5. Climb to the top, keeping left of the nose.

The juggy wall on the right-hand side of the cave.

Around the corner of the cave on the right is a clean corner on grey rock.

Walking along from the cave a smooth wall is reached bounded high on the left by a smooth corner, and by a large corner/crack on the right. This is the South America Wall.

Start at a mini-ramp below a flake dead centre of the wall. Climb to a rail (thin), and traverse left for 10m to the first break in the roof. Power through and go left into the corner. Climb up and find a gargoyle to rappel.

The corner/crack on the right-hand side of the wall.

This line takes the prow at the left hand end of the Black Wall buttress just above the gendarme abseil point.

1. Start on the left, about 2.5m below the base of a narrow corner, with a hairline crack at the back. Move up to a rail and right, where difficult moves gain arête at the top left side of the corner. Continue up on good holds to the face above. Traverse right, and then up featured rock to stance on top of a white ramp.

2. Move up and right. Tricky moves up to a horn, then pretty much straight up on excellent, grey rock to the top.