Routes as sport in Cheile Sohodolului

A recent cleaning somebody did has removed a hold that made the crux harder. Probably closer to a VI+ UIAA now.

Route is right at the end of the sector where the chossy rock starts, so avoid going too much to the left.

Not safe to fall before clipping second bolt (or maybe third), but section is fairly easy. Crux is going to the 4th bolt. The route follows a large crack to the top that makes the route fairly easy.

Route starts with a fairly technical slab, with first bolt being just a plate to place a quickdraw to redirect the rope. No fall zone from ground to second bolt.

Crux is half-way up the route, bolts 4 and 5 after which it's easier. Feels burly in parts and quite technical in the crux on tiny footholds and off balance positions.

Bottom gets quite lichen filled and the grass growing on the slab cracks the rock continuously, if left unchecked, so bottom slab changes each season, depending if there are climbers to clean the clumps of grass or not. Has some areas which you need to use which are almost always wet, but can be avoided. The part between the slab and the left wall is quite chossy and crumbly so you should avoid using it and climb the slab to the right of the first bolt.

Route has a very technical crux, going from the last bolt to the top, with very few and/or tiny handholds. You have to trust your feet and balance the few handholds to get to a good undercling to clip the top.

No fall zone from ground to the 3rd bolt, but it's a fairly easy slab if you trust your feet. Bolts 4 and 5 are in an overhanging section with good handholds and feet. After the overhang. there's a significant distance between bolts 6 and 7 (around 4m) and section is fairly technical, not trivial, but safe to fall.

Route follows a large crack all the way to the top. No fall zone between bolts 2 and 3.

Challenge of the route is to find the holds and positions to move forward. The move difficulty doesn't vary that much throughout the route. Crux is after the 6th bolt, with lots of ways of solving the section.

Technical route, with bad feet in the crux section which is between bolts 5 and 7. You have to use mostly a finger crack on the left and bad feet. You can use body friction with the wall on the left side in some positions, which helps. Going to the top there is a crack that can be hand jammed, but it's painful, because of spiky protrusions in it that tears the back of your hand so a crack glove can be useful if you want to use the jam. There are different betas you can use that avoids the jam if you have a large-ish wing span.

Not really safe to fall before clipping the 4th bolt, but section is fairly tame.

Shorter climbers should use an extended quickdraw on the 6th bolt. It helps clipping before the harder moves, where you risk falling on the slab below. If you make the mistake of falling with feet below you instead of feet in front you can easily get hurt.

Easiest route at this sector, good for warming up. Not very good for top roping because of the offset top that means you swing a lot, potentially damaging your rope.

Long route with a good no hands rest halfway up. First bolt is not greatly placed, not recommended to fall with just the first bolt clipped. Falling on the way to forth bolt with third bolt clipped is also dangerous, because you land with your feet in a large crack. A while back, somebody broke their leg in that.

The top is kind of rusted and with some additional non-climbing rated quick-links added to it. It was still good when last checked in 2021 but looks bad. Quicklinks on the top are kind of narrow so you fumble around with them a lot if you have a thicker rope. Not unsafe, just frustrating.

Not overly technical, but long and sustained. Use the rest middle way to your advantage, as other rest positions are not great.

The route combines a bit of technical slab climbing between bolts 2 and 3 and between bolts 5 and top with a tame overhang between bolts 3 and 5. First slab is very easy, second one is hard with small holds or angled the opposite way you want them. Crux is going to the last bolt, feet are bad, holds hard to spot and not great, always in off balance positions.