Routes as sport in Black Site Crags

Great warm-up and also suitable for top-roping as it's only vertical - unlike everything else at this crag. Far right route up orange streak, with a flake in the middle. Scramble in to belay ledge from the left end.

Longest route at the crag! An old-school, improbable offering. Seeps after rain. Starts about 8m right of the approach rope - but down on ground level on rocky ramp. Tricky slab, to steep chocolate-coloured headwall on amazing pockets and jugs.

A zen-like cruise to a Margalef-like finale. There is alot to learn on on this banger. Starts right of the belay bolt.

Up "corner" to tricky mantle. Continue up steep slab on beautiful pockets to rest. Meditate, and steel yourself for an intense, sustained, transcendental finish.

New ethereal beta from the universe has made this route easier however it doesn't detract from its quality.

If you want to earn 26 use the Mono out far left.

A brilliant long climb, whose first iteration proved dissappointing, but whose reimagining produced a rare technical delicacy.

Start as for Locus of Control (or via the much harder Covid Conspiracy Capers) to the ledge, clip long runner out left, then traverse left (crossing Covid Conspiracy Capers) via crux, and continue left until bolts guide you back up the wall.

Despite appearances you can clean this route on lower-off ok without rethreading.

"Yes, the 5G I put in your Telstra pit gave you COVID."

Unrelenting!

Straight up slab left of the belay bolt. Boulder moves to turn the bulge, traverse left, then continue up the steep "slab" on inspiring white and grey rock, with surprisingly dynamic moves.

Named after the bone spur on the first ascensionist femur that was removed the day after the FA. Start at top of the knotted approach rope on far right end of ledge. Tricky mantle start, traverse right to a pocketed dyno and la rose finish on perfect rock.

Right trending steep overhanging jug haul to an awesome water washed finish. Starts 2m left of Pablo.

Glorious pumping. Starts off right side of small platform about 5m left of approach rope. Stick-clip 2nd bolt. Head slightly right at the 2nd bolt, then up on jugs to join pumpy, water-polished, gnarly finale. Anchors out left.

Links the best features of 3 routes into some of the most sustained climbing at the crag, while avoiding all the gnarly cruxes.

Start up The Cabal, continue into the Open Project, and after clipping the last bolt, keep trucking right to gain the last bolt of "Summer of Rain" (long runner) and finish up that.

Start as for The Cabal to the 5th bolt, then punch up and right via pockets to crimp rail traverse. Truck right past one new bolt, then crux to gain left-facing flake-thing, followed by committing climbing to the anchor.

Climbs the improbable blank-looking white streak. Very cruxy.

Powerful moves to gain the white rock, choose the LEFT line of bolts, and tackle extremely bouldery crux moving left to flake, followed by a technical and committing headwall.

Might be significantly easier with a long enough wingspan.

The first route climbed at this crag! Hard at the grade.

Climbs the rust-brown rock left of the white streak (the Cabal). Very sustained, pumpy and technical, with a brutal sting in the tail. All thriller, no filler.

Jump on the Funky Venga Bus, it won’t disappoint! Apparently It's like that by Run DMC and Jason Nevis sounds like a funky venga bus....

Very nice top half up the white shield and orange ripples. Ledgy start just right of Gumbo.

A good warm up. Up slab to a sandy middle on easy ground than a quick trip up a steep corner on Arapiles style rock.

Pocketed orange wall to steeper ground and flake on right. Take care to avoid touching the humongous flake on the left when lowering off.

Bouldery start, jug city for a bit then speccy limestone like face climbing up the grey headwall.

Outstanding right facing flake up high guarded by a tough face move to get off the ground. Way steeper and pumpier than you think it will be.

Lovely orange rock from start to finish. Right trending start across line of pockets then up steep wall. Ask Monty about the leaf blower story.

About 2m right of the far left end of the wall - just right of the short flake project. Short and intense with lots of bolts. Screw gate into the first bolt as an unclipped bolt will be the end of both belayer and climber.

The far left right-facing flake. A great warmup (and excellent belayer bait)!

Short, but packs a punch. The steepest route here! Starts at the cairn. Route is wet in rain.

Gnarly start to gain 2nd bolt, then easier beautiful steep finger-jugging to the top.

Consider adding to the cairn until you can reach the starting mono. The first ascensionist could only just reach the mono at full stretch on the first ascent. If you pull up the 2nd bolt, its an awesome gr23.

Jump for big juggy break, swing left then up crux crimps to small ledge. Continue up featured steep wall.

Face 2m left of sandy corner. Intense sharp start, cruisy middle then harder sustained climbing for the last 4 bolts. Overhangs about 4m.

Sandy corner on right edge of ledge for 4m then straight up steep wall. Lots of jugs. Baffling move at bolt 3.

Best warm-up here with an easy start that gets increasing pumpier up top. Starts up on the high ledge on the right side of crag. Rope up & climb sandy corner start of Ejector Seat to access this ledge and optional double bolt belay. Scramble up onto block then mantle into scoop to start. Best way to clean route is to get someone to 2nd it and they lower off back to the main platform.

Line on right side of wall. First pitch remains a closed project (stay off) - the pitches above are free to play on.

1. 40m CLOSED PROJECT starting about 20m right of After Life. A long sustained pitch.

2. 39m (25) A spectacular pitch of great orange rock with a gorgeous subtle flake system. Mostly dead vertical but the top kicks back into serious pumpness with a couple of unusual pinch holds. Belay at double bolts - but sit on the edge of the shale slot for max comfort. Aprox 16 draws required + some for belays.

3. Finish as for After Life pitches 4, 5 & 6.

Heavenly three star face climbing with a one star deduction for the exit shenanigans. This route requires rapping down an overhung wall - don't under estimate this. Practice at home not on this route and have the right gear!

Gear: 140m of rap rope (possible to use 100m and then thread the lead rope for last rap), lead rope, 20 long draws, rope protector. No slings required.

Descent: Fix rap rope to two hard to spot ringbolts on slab at top of wall (they are narrow and camo painted). Walk down slope for 10m then rap over edge (place rope protector here). Once over edge rap down dirt slope for 10m then down wall next to small cave. Continue down past cave and into steeper ground. Kick a bit to reach double bolts at top of pitch 3 (about 35m down from cliff top). Short fix on these bolts and continue rapping down - its about 80m to the ground from this belay (using a dynamic rope with stretch).

1. 20m (22) Exit purgatory by climbing up wall behind small tree for 6m then left onto ledge. Hard move left off this (good luck if you are short!) then up blissful orange wall and through bulge to restful ledge belay. This pitch is bolted with Ubolts - if you see hangers you are on the wrong route.

2. 35m (24) The celestial traverse. Up holy-water polished rock for a couple of bolts then fly like an angel across the 8 bolt traverse line (crux in the middle) then effortlessly float up flake and wall to a cloud in the skies belay ledge. If the leader or 2nd falls off this pitch they will want prussics.

3. 40m (24) Move belay 4m to left end of ledge. Rising rightwards traverse through the Elysian fields (i.e. greenery) and up sustained wall, slab, flake, corner, jugs, oh god I am so pumped, am I there yet? Yes you have made it my disciple. Semi-hanging belay with a comfy foot ledge.

4. 8m (20) Short kind of scary mini roof to ledge belay. Questionable rock. Could potentially be linked into pitch 3 but rope drag would be devilish.

5. 20m (18) The underworld exit. Walk/grovel left along ledge for 10m (two bolts) then out small conglomerate roof on huge plates (pinned for your pleasure). Belay on big comfy ledge. The top half of this pitch is shared with the On a String and a Prayer.

6. 25m (20) Pray the waterfall isn't pumping or you're about to get wet. The steep wall right of the cave and wetness. Nice rock for 4 bolts then spooky ironstone jugs (but still steep). Finish by slabbing up conglomerate to double bolts.

A magnificent flake feature straight up the guts of the wall. Each pitch has merit - but the real wonder is in pitches 3 and 4 (which can be linked if your 2nd is up for it). Named after a scary worn Grigri rope cutting drama during first ascent attempts. Check your gear!

Gear required: Route is entirely bolted and does not require bolt plates. 16 draws should keep you out of trouble (most pitches are 8 to 12 bolts). Three of the belays are hanging - so take your comfy harness and consider a couple of long slings to manage the rope on belay.

Descent: Where you rap down will depend on how much you want to suss the route out in advance, have an escape jugging rope in bad weather and desire to leave cache of food/water/shoes. The cleanest simplest and boldest rap is tying 130m of rope together and rapping down After Life. This mean you have to carry everything up the route and must be able to obligatory climb around grade 22 above bolts. If you rap down the route itself the rope rarely gets in the way of the climbing itself (it's an overhung wall and the route traverses around a fair bit). If you have limited ropes then a fixed 50m rope from the top anchors will get you to belay anchors at top of pitch 4. From there you can rap and pull ropes down using 50m double ropes or a single 80m to the ground (in two raps).

1. 15m (20) Smeary slab on FHs with a potentially damp mantle halfway up. Comfy ledge belay at top. This pitch gets affected by rainfall and during wet weather a small waterfall 150m above.

2. 17m (24/25) Dry! Left rising traverse via several annoying shale breaks to a boulder problem double sidepull throw to gain the main face. Finish by dancing rightwards (and downwards) and then upwards to hanging belay below major flake feature.

3. 22m (24/25) Up delicate flake (low crux) then right and up major fused flake feature to hanging belay on left. It's possible to link into next pitch but would suck on 2nd if you fell off.

4. 27m (24) Some amazing rock. Short flake, right traverse, more flake then take a breather on a sharp knee bar then blast up sustained face to tiny ledge belay below weeping water drip.

5. 18m (24/25) Right again through steepness then up orange streak and through ironstone mini roof to diving board belay ledge.

6. 15m (18) Easy grey jugs then sketch out small conglomerate roof on huge plates (pinned for your pleasure). Belay on big comfy ledge. The top half of this pitch is shared with pitch 5 of After Life.

7. 25m (20) The steep wall right of the cave and wetness. Nice rock for 4 bolts then spooky ironstone jugs (but still steep). Finish by slabbing up conglomerate to double bolts. This is shared with pitch 6 of After Life.