Routes

Direct start to "Destruction" right in the cave. More at kletterblock.de

A variant of "Docteur País Maker".

Extension of "Legend".

Connects Guerre d'usure and Super Samson.

Left start into "Mar de Bering".

Direct start version into "Jumbo Love".

Starts on "Nordic Plumber" and climbs through the second pitch of "Thor’s Hammer".

Finishes on "A quelques mètres de la légalité".

Climbs the left part of the prow.

Extension of "Axe d'aile".

45° overhang with tufas and pinches.

This is Beyond with its extension

Extension of the 8b.

A short route on pinches and vertical holds. The route starts with a 8A boulder problem and traverses with a rest and then a 7C/C+ boulder problem.

A pure resistance route. Video.

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

The route just left of Rois du Pétrole to the first anchor. Freed by Sébastien Bouin and proposed "hard 9a" or "soft 9a+".

In 2020 a key hold in the second crux broke making it 9a+.

Extension of La Folle Histoire du Monde.

Initially graded 8c+ but downgraded by Gé Pouvreau to 8c.

A 60m "king line" on an overhanging prow above 150m of air. Seb bolted the route in 2009, in a bottom up effort that took him three days to complete. Over the following years, Seb regularly came back to try the route but it soon became obvious that its difficulty was out of reach. He finally sent his project in 2008, grading it 9a+ (solid). History video

Nicknamed the French Chilam Balam for its length and sustained difficulty.

The route was bolted in the late nineties and is made of two parts: The first part (added later) is the extension start. The second part is the original "Les yeux plus gros que le ventre" (which means having eyes bigger than belly).

Description

:

The first roof part is around 20-25 meters and weighs in around 8b+. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope.

Then you have a bouldery crux featuring a one finger pocket to reach another rest. Until here it could be an 8c route.

Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after this a series of bouldery sections: 7A, 7A, 7C+/8A and finally a 7B.

All these boulder problems are amazing. Especially the redpoint crux of the route in the 7C+/8A boulder. There are incredible moves to finish on a tufa dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk

Location not correct, please move if you know where it is exactly!

Bouldery line in the middle of the cave.

This route is made of two parts:

• the first part is a resistant and physical 8c+, followed by a good rest.
• the second part is an 8c taking place in the steepest part of the work that will drain your stamina...

Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+.

Same start as Staphylocoque.

Doing all the hard part of "L'Intégral Du Play Boy" (8c+), but when L'Intégral crosses to the right, the route continues straight.

Then there is a big dyno in the roof and a short enduring section for going to a very big rest. After this big rest, there is still a very demanding, short and bouldery 8b/+ with very big moves which are a little bit morphological (hard if you are less than 1,75 M).

This route is long, magnificient, amazing, and also a mega - line.

Video of Lucien Martinez :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r7W5DT2dlg

Short and powerful climb on the top of the crag.