Routes

7b oblig.

Material: 16 cintas exprés

Topo en elev-arte.com

Gear:

set of friends Totem up to no. 3

Sun from about 11:30 on the wall.

Described as "a line of enormous beauty with spectacular dihedrals, slabs zones and beautiful runnels, which are the hallmark of this place that will give a lot to talk about in the coming years." Except for three bolts - one on a pitch and the others on two separate belays - the route is protected with trad gear.

"It is a spectacular line that crosses a system of runnels bigger than we have ever seen before” explained the trio of first ascensionists.

Gear

Friends up to No. 3, single rope

Comparte gran parte del recorrido con su vecino "Gran Guggenheim".

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor "Gran Guggenheim".

Comienza en "Guggenheim" y termina en "Gran Lubre".

Starts on "Guggenheim" and exits on "Gran Lubre".

Initially graded 8c, Siebe Vanhee and Séb Berthe suggest 8b+ (Aug-2023).

As Iker Pou says "The route follows an incredibly beautiful line up perfect, very vertical limestone. The climbing is protected with a mix of bolts and friends, and bolts were only placed where it wasn’t possible to protect ourselves otherwise. The route runs through the central section of this fantastic wall, which has always been admired by mountaineers and climbers for its unique beauty and sheer steepness. We dare say it’s a small jewel of the Picos de Europa, thanks to the direct line and exceptional limestone."

Gear:

10 Quickdraws, 1 set of Totems (Friends) up to number #2 and 1 x 0.2, 1 x 0.3 Totem Basic or Alien.

Descent:

On foot, but it is also possible to rappel down the entire route.

First route in the north face.

"Most of the 9 pitches were protected with trad gear and only on three of them were we forced to place a few bolts. All the climbing runs up fantastic limestone, such good quality that the ascent of these perfect “organs” is one of the most beautiful we have ever done. We believe this is the first time we have opened a route of such quality and beauty in mountains. We are happy." Hermanos Pou

The Honeymoon of Iker Pou and Neus Colom.

A set of Friends from 0.1 to 2. The route can be climbed with an 80m rope. All belays are equipped with two rings for the abseils.

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

Short extension of "Clepteropa".

Gear:

2 sets of friends up to 1 and one 3 plus 2 sets of micro friends and one set of nuts

The extension of Celedón Txiki.

Iker Pou said: This is the most important route we've ever climbed. We worked it for two whole months this summer and it can be broken down into three sections. The first four pitches are new and very steep and were first ascended with a Rätikon and Wendenstöcke mentality, which means long run-outs from one bolt to the other! The second section shares six pitches of an old route called Mediterraneo, first climbed in 1980 using aid. The 5th pitch is the technical crux at 8c+/9a and although it is a bit easier, it is still 8a+. Both were originally climbed using aid and graded A3, and we risked big falls between 20 -25m. The protection on these pitches was very old, there were some original bolts, but most of the rest are wooden pitons, copperheads, micro-friends and nuts..."

Free Ascents

• 2015 Nina Caprez & Cédric Lachat

Intialially graded A2+.

Odissy R1 + American Express