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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
2024
24 Goochs Crack

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 27 Feb

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
2023
24 Land of the Giants

Offwidth #6 roof crack with low footwork and features inside the crack. Easy start to wedged boulder where a start anchor can be built. Chimney out to roof crack, turn lip then finger/hand traverse to next lip. Lower off. The last few meters to topout is easy climbing on rotten rock and has not been climbed. Located in a small cave just before accessing Supercrack.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 27 Dec

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
23 Groundup Superstar

Super steep roof crack on bomber hands and fists with plenty of gear. Gear recommended double #4#3#2#1, gear before first lip has to be extended or unclipped otherwise rope drag will be problematic. Lower off.

FA: Jacques Beaudoin, 24 Dec

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
28 Le Paresseux

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 13 Aug 2023

Trad 30m Blue Mountains
24 Sloth Roof

Short version of Le Paresseux. Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Finishes at anchor after 5m of horizontal heel hooking and wishing you were a sloth. Half the gear is straight forward cams, half is tricky, bring a selection of hexes and offset nuts, slings, etc.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 7 Jun 2023

Trad 20m Blue Mountains
28 The Blood Arrow

The most obvious line through an enormous arrow head shaped stain. Fantastic steep crack, fingers, hands, chicken wings, funky dropknees, karate kicks, few pockets and few good crimps and jugs. Stops where the rock quality deteriorates after obvious bulge in ceiling. Lower off.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 22 May 2023

Trad 25m Blue Mountains
28 The Great Divide

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 9 Jan 2023

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
2022
28 Northern Star

8m consistent overhang in 17m of height. Very well protected finger crack topping out the cliff. Very clean. Only one jug after the low first crux, then pumpfest on fingerlocks, then a last crux pinching the dyke to pumpy easier few metres. Top out past DRB anchor. Shady in summer, sunny in winter.

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FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 3 Dec 2022

Trad 17m Blue Mountains
2021
31 Mother Earth

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Set: Jacques Beaudoin

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 2 May 2021

Trad 24m Blue Mountains
2020
26 Titan

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

FA: Jacques Beaudoin, 16 Sep 2020

Trad 20m Blue Mountains
24 Mantis

Very steep arete climbing overhanging wall on the left of Hotdog Wall. Batman start requires a 5m stick clip on a DUB anchor, a regular stick clip taped to a sturdy wood stick will do the trick. A 70m rope will be ample for lowering, a 60m might just be enough, be careful and tie a knot at the end. Walk in access is possible following the gully to the left of the pagodas, it will split left at -33.322499, 150.133324, keep following left and down pass Pet Wall etc

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 29 May 2020

Sport 30m Blue Mountains
2019
AIDC:C1 Splitting Pain

Very short but very steep (85deg???) finger crack. Finger jams are good but footwork is limited. Back clean.

FA: Jacques Beaudoin, 9 Dec 2019

Aid 7m Blue Mountains
28 Beyond Belief

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 26 Feb 2019

Trad 40m Blue Mountains
24 Work Cover

The two bolt extension to Work Injury adds even more pump.

FA: Jacques Beaudoin, 2019

Sport 20m, 9 Blue Mountains
2018
23 Disbelief

This is the short version of the climb Beyond Belief. It goes slightly overhanging on good hand jams to heavily overhanging on wider hands/fists. It basically stops close to the turning point where the proper ceiling is starting. You'll know if you're just in "Disbelief" or willing to go Beyond Belief at this point. Grade can feel on the soft side if you have large hands.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 25 Jul 2018

Trad 15m Blue Mountains

Showing all 15 routes.