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Showing all 36 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
2015
28 Renewable Energy

Start on Caught by the Fuzz, keep going through the roof and finish directly up Armed to the Teeth. Multiple cruxes

FFA: jjobrien, 22 Apr 2015

Sport 29m, 16 Mt Coolum
2014
28 Armed to the Teeth

Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way into Renewable energy.

Set: Graham Page & antoine moussette, 2012

FFA: jjobrien, 30 Sep 2014

Sport 33m, 16 Mt Coolum
2013
26 Powderkeg

Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015)

FA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2013

Sport 30m, 20 Mt Coolum
2012
28 Massive Attack
1 28 20m
2 ?

A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.

  1. 20m Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

  2. (Project) Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

FA: Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2012

Mixed trad 20m, 2, 4 Mt Tibrogargan
2011
25 The David Lee Roth

Climb Dave until you're at the double UBs above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at 'CFT''s anchor.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2011

Sport 20m, 12 Mt Coolum
20 Dave

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2011

Sport 12m, 9 Mt Coolum
2010
23 Techno phobia

Follow Figjams parallel crack until possible to blast straight up for the triangular feature and mantel out. Sinisters anchor to the right. Great holds and gear.

FFA: jjobrien, 2010

Trad 14m Brooyar
2009
27 Call of Duty

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Set: antoine moussette, 2009

FFA: jjobrien, 2009

Sport 25m, 16 Mt Coolum
2008
25 Ultraviolet

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

FFA: jjobrien, 2008

Sport 15m, 7 Mt Coolum
2007
26 Black Leather Dungarees

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2007

Sport 20m, 11 Mt Coolum
27 Gasoline Rainbow

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2007

Sport 20m, 9 Mt Coolum
2006
23 Relative Affection

Tough little crux, great for improving footwork. Challenge your friction technique.

FFA: jjobrien & ambor collins, 2006

Sport 18m, 7 Mt Coolum
2005
20 Single Gun Theory
  1. 30m (20) Use long draws under the overhangs. Straight up through the blocky overhangs and onto the slab. DUBB, toe ledge only. 11 bolts.

  2. 20m (20) DUBB. 7 bolts.

Careful on the way down, one 50m rope is NO good.

FA: jjobrien & Damien Ayers, 2005

Sport 50m, 2, 18 Mt Tinbeerwah
19 Pagan Nation

Start near the arete 50m R of 'Descent of the Machines' where the ground starts to rise up steeply.

10 BRs and DBB. Some tricky moves. Nice.

FA: jjobrien & Terry Forbes, 2005

Sport 25m, 10 Mt Tinbeerwah
16 The Runes of the Heretics

The obvious corner. Some puzzling moves. Solid at the grade. Double U bolt belay/lower-off.

FA: jjobrien, Aaron Shum & Denis Gicquel, 2005

Sport 20m, 5 Mt Tinbeerwah
20 Mmm... Slanty!

Start up the low angled slab R of 'The Runes of the Heretics'.

Thin crimping. Grade 20 if you don't use the corner. Shares any of the bolts on 'The Runes of the Heretics' plus 2 more optionals, you choose. A little contrived but worthwhile. DUBB/lower-off.

FA: jjobrien, Aarom Shum & Denis Gicquel, 2005

Sport 20m, 5 Mt Tinbeerwah
18 Antipreneurialism

Follows the line just R of the big corner system.

  1. 30m (18) Two low bolts protect the sketchy start. Cross the corner to the 8th bolt, onto the ledge. DUBB.

  2. 30m (18) Straight up, gets thin in the middle. Well bolted, solid rock. DUBB. Abseil off or continue to pitch 3.

  3. 12m (15) Climb up 3m then R carefully following the ledge (no pro en-route) to the UBB and B.

  4. 1m (1) Walk off R.

2 pitch, 8 bolts each. DUBBs. Abseil off or traverse out right & up 15m UBB.

FA: jjobrien & Sabina Allemann, 2005

Sport 73m, 4, 16 Mt Tinbeerwah
2004
18 Zircon Encrusted Tweezers

Start at the lefthand mouth of the small cave formed by a boulder leaning against the cliff.

Tricky start then eases off. 9 BRs, traverse R at the top to the 'Thin Is In!' DUBB.

FA: jjobrien & Nathan Perkins, 2004

Sport 40m, 9 Mt Tinbeerwah
20 Thin Is In

Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff.

Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB. Rap/belay from ring #12.

FA: jjobrien & Adrienne Dougal, 2004

Sport 40m, 12 Mt Tinbeerwah
20 Hunting the Wild Tofu

Start on bushy ledge accessed either via 'Traverse Link to 'HtWT'' or by abseil from the top. The abseil is from double U bolts located 15m uphill from rings 19 & 20 (the top of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot').

Very hard to the first bolt and very tricky to the second. Use the U bolt tie down for the belayer to minimise leader fall from first bolt.

Sport 20m, 5 Mt Tinbeerwah
6 Traverse Link to 'HtWT'

Start at the top of the 1st pitch of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

One way of getting to the start of 'Hunting the Wild Tofu'. Traverse and rise R past 3 bolts to bushy ledge, U bolt belay and U bolt tie down.

FA: Dave Barre & jjobrien, 2004

Sport 15m, 3 Mt Tinbeerwah
17 Sports Fan

Start at the R end of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

Nice long pitch of grade 15 climbing with one grade 17 move. Well bolted. 11 BRs and top out. Rap/belay using ring 16.

FA: jjobrien, Mat Reale & Alicia Bodaly, 2004

Sport 45m, 11 Mt Tinbeerwah
17 String Theory

Start at the Bangalow Palm between the 30m pillar and 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

  1. 45m (17) Follow the columns and through the bulge. 9 bolts to double U bolt belay at narrow ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Nice moves up the slab past 4 bolts, tenderly over the top to double U bolt belay behind the saplings on big ledge. 5m scramble out.

FA: jjobrien & A. Bailey, 2004

Sport 70m, 2, 13 Mt Tinbeerwah
2003
21 Uncertainty Principle

Starts 1m right of the tree stump. Rap/belay from ring 11.

FA: jjobrien & N. Perkins, 2003

Sport 45m, 13 Mt Tinbeerwah
23 Pre-Flight Departure

Start: Starts just right of big detached boulder

FA: Nathan Perkins & jjobrien, 2003

Sport 45m, 11 Mt Tinbeerwah
20 The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot

Start at the big bifurcated box tree 50m R of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

  1. 40m (19) The first bolt sticks out with a neck as long and graceful as a swan. Climb up through the bulge (crux) to the ledge, U bolt and bolt belay.

  2. 35m (20) Straight up, take care at the top, touching the loose blocks for balance only. Belay at rings 19 & 20.

FA: jjobrien & Ray Phoenix, 2003

Sport 75m, 2, 17 Mt Tinbeerwah
Unknown year
17 Gardening Oz Style

It can only get cleaner. Trend L to the scar at the 6th bolt then trend R. Double U bolt belay. Have the seconder tag a spare rope for abseil descent, or climb out (15m) past one bolt and a scramble to the path, slinging saplings on the way. Body belay? (Tree belay not permitted).

Start: Start 10m past the 30m high pillar.

Sport 45m, 11 Mt Tinbeerwah
19 Trachyte Terrorism

Be alert but not alarmed.

Climb the wall and corner, overcome the bulge then trend R to ST's p1 belay. Abseil or finish up p2 of ST. Double U bolt belay on the ledge.

Start: Start 5m R of G.O.S. and 5m L of 'String Theory'.

Sport 35m, 11 Mt Tinbeerwah
22 The Opposability Project

Lots of hard moves. Careful to the 2nd bolt. Bottom (crux) is mossy (always in shade) and too slippery on feet unless had days of sunshine. Rap/belay from ring 11. Starts 1m left of the tree stump.

FA: jjobrien & Dan Rush

Sport 45m, 12 Mt Tinbeerwah
24 Stone-age Elevator

11 U-bolts. Straight up. Hard sequence through the overhangs.

FA: jjobrien

Sport 43m, 11 Mt Tinbeerwah
24 Hobo Erectus

11 u-bolts. Power thru first overhang, very tricky leading up to second overhang.

FA: jjobrien & belay S. Allemann

Sport 42m, 11 Mt Tinbeerwah
24 Peak Time

Exciting variant finish to 'Pre-Flight Departure' or 'Hobo Erectus'. Go R.under roof and up arete. U-bolts.

FA: jjobrien

Sport 10m, 3 Mt Tinbeerwah
8 R Genesis

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'. Rap/belay from ring #6.

Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6.

FA: jjobrien

Sport 30m, 7 Mt Tinbeerwah
19 Avatar

Replaces EFIG. Climb the wall 4m L of 'Me and My Dog', starting in front of the large burnt out tree. Cross the corner L above the 5th bolt finish up the headwall. 9 bolts. DUB belay.

FA: jjobrien & 2nd Jeremy Goble

Sport 40m, 9 Mt Tinbeerwah
14 Degrees Of Freedom

Rap/belay from ring #10.

FA: jjobrien & Sandra Phoenix

Sport 35m, 7 Mt Tinbeerwah
14 The Day the Jugs Ran Out

Bolted, 8 bolts. Rap/belay from ring #10.

FA: jjobrien & A. Bailey

Sport 35m, 8 Mt Tinbeerwah

Showing all 36 routes.