Showing all 36 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2015 | |||||
28 | ★★ Renewable Energy
Start on Caught by the Fuzz, keep going through the roof and finish directly up Armed to the Teeth. Multiple cruxes FFA: jjobrien, 22 Apr 2015 | 29m, 16 | Mt Coolum | ||
2014 | |||||
28 | ★★ Armed to the Teeth
Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way into Renewable energy. Set: Graham Page & antoine moussette, 2012 FFA: jjobrien, 30 Sep 2014 | 33m, 16 | Mt Coolum | ||
2013 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Powderkeg
Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015) | 30m, 20 | Mt Coolum | ||
2012 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Massive Attack
1
28
20m
2
?
A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.
FA: Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 20m, 2, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
2011 | |||||
25 | ★★ The David Lee Roth | 20m, 12 | Mt Coolum | ||
20 | ★ Dave | 12m, 9 | Mt Coolum | ||
2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Techno phobia
Follow Figjams parallel crack until possible to blast straight up for the triangular feature and mantel out. Sinisters anchor to the right. Great holds and gear. FFA: jjobrien, 2010 | 14m | Brooyar | ||
2009 | |||||
27 | ★★ Call of Duty
Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27. Set: antoine moussette, 2009 FFA: jjobrien, 2009 | 25m, 16 | Mt Coolum | ||
2008 | |||||
25 | ★★ Ultraviolet
Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge. FFA: jjobrien, 2008 | 15m, 7 | Mt Coolum | ||
2007 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Black Leather Dungarees
Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off. | 20m, 11 | Mt Coolum | ||
27 | ★★★ Gasoline Rainbow
Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope. | 20m, 9 | Mt Coolum | ||
2006 | |||||
23 | ★ Relative Affection
Tough little crux, great for improving footwork. Challenge your friction technique. FFA: jjobrien & ambor collins, 2006 | 18m, 7 | Mt Coolum | ||
2005 | |||||
20 | ★★ Single Gun Theory
Careful on the way down, one 50m rope is NO good. FA: jjobrien & Damien Ayers, 2005 | 50m, 2, 18 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
19 | ★★ Pagan Nation
Start near the arete 50m R of 'Descent of the Machines' where the ground starts to rise up steeply. 10 BRs and DBB. Some tricky moves. Nice. FA: jjobrien & Terry Forbes, 2005 | 25m, 10 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
16 | ★ The Runes of the Heretics
The obvious corner. Some puzzling moves. Solid at the grade. Double U bolt belay/lower-off. FA: jjobrien, Aaron Shum & Denis Gicquel, 2005 | 20m, 5 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
20 | ★★ Mmm... Slanty!
Start up the low angled slab R of 'The Runes of the Heretics'. Thin crimping. Grade 20 if you don't use the corner. Shares any of the bolts on 'The Runes of the Heretics' plus 2 more optionals, you choose. A little contrived but worthwhile. DUBB/lower-off. FA: jjobrien, Aarom Shum & Denis Gicquel, 2005 | 20m, 5 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
18 | ★★ Antipreneurialism
Follows the line just R of the big corner system.
2 pitch, 8 bolts each. DUBBs. Abseil off or traverse out right & up 15m UBB. FA: jjobrien & Sabina Allemann, 2005 | 73m, 4, 16 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
2004 | |||||
18 | ★ Zircon Encrusted Tweezers
Start at the lefthand mouth of the small cave formed by a boulder leaning against the cliff. Tricky start then eases off. 9 BRs, traverse R at the top to the 'Thin Is In!' DUBB. FA: jjobrien & Nathan Perkins, 2004 | 40m, 9 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
20 | ★★ Thin Is In
Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff. Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB. Rap/belay from ring #12. FA: jjobrien & Adrienne Dougal, 2004 | 40m, 12 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
20 | ★★ Hunting the Wild Tofu
Start on bushy ledge accessed either via 'Traverse Link to 'HtWT'' or by abseil from the top. The abseil is from double U bolts located 15m uphill from rings 19 & 20 (the top of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'). Very hard to the first bolt and very tricky to the second. Use the U bolt tie down for the belayer to minimise leader fall from first bolt. FA: jjobrien & Bruce McDougall, 2004 | 20m, 5 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
6 | Traverse Link to 'HtWT'
Start at the top of the 1st pitch of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'. One way of getting to the start of 'Hunting the Wild Tofu'. Traverse and rise R past 3 bolts to bushy ledge, U bolt belay and U bolt tie down. FA: Dave Barre & jjobrien, 2004 | 15m, 3 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
17 | ★★ Sports Fan
Start at the R end of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing. Nice long pitch of grade 15 climbing with one grade 17 move. Well bolted. 11 BRs and top out. Rap/belay using ring 16. FA: jjobrien, Mat Reale & Alicia Bodaly, 2004 | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
17 | ★★ String Theory
Start at the Bangalow Palm between the 30m pillar and 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.
FA: jjobrien & A. Bailey, 2004 | 70m, 2, 13 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
2003 | |||||
21 | ★★ Uncertainty Principle
Starts 1m right of the tree stump. Rap/belay from ring 11. FA: jjobrien & N. Perkins, 2003 | 45m, 13 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
23 | ★★ Pre-Flight Departure
Start: Starts just right of big detached boulder FA: Nathan Perkins & jjobrien, 2003 | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
20 | ★★ The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot
Start at the big bifurcated box tree 50m R of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.
FA: jjobrien & Ray Phoenix, 2003 | 75m, 2, 17 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
Unknown year | |||||
17 | ★ Gardening Oz Style
It can only get cleaner. Trend L to the scar at the 6th bolt then trend R. Double U bolt belay. Have the seconder tag a spare rope for abseil descent, or climb out (15m) past one bolt and a scramble to the path, slinging saplings on the way. Body belay? (Tree belay not permitted). Start: Start 10m past the 30m high pillar. FA: jjobrien & Todd Becker | 45m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
19 | ★★ Trachyte Terrorism
Be alert but not alarmed. Climb the wall and corner, overcome the bulge then trend R to ST's p1 belay. Abseil or finish up p2 of ST. Double U bolt belay on the ledge. Start: Start 5m R of G.O.S. and 5m L of 'String Theory'. FA: jjobrien & Todd Becker | 35m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
22 | ★ The Opposability Project
Lots of hard moves. Careful to the 2nd bolt. Bottom (crux) is mossy (always in shade) and too slippery on feet unless had days of sunshine. Rap/belay from ring 11. Starts 1m left of the tree stump. FA: jjobrien & Dan Rush | 45m, 12 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
24 | ★★ Stone-age Elevator
11 U-bolts. Straight up. Hard sequence through the overhangs. FA: jjobrien | 43m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
24 | ★★ Hobo Erectus
11 u-bolts. Power thru first overhang, very tricky leading up to second overhang. FA: jjobrien & belay S. Allemann | 42m, 11 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
24 | ★★ Peak Time
Exciting variant finish to 'Pre-Flight Departure' or 'Hobo Erectus'. Go R.under roof and up arete. U-bolts. FA: jjobrien | 10m, 3 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
8 R | ★ Genesis
Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'. Rap/belay from ring #6. Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6. FA: jjobrien | 30m, 7 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
19 | ★★ Avatar
Replaces EFIG. Climb the wall 4m L of 'Me and My Dog', starting in front of the large burnt out tree. Cross the corner L above the 5th bolt finish up the headwall. 9 bolts. DUB belay. FA: jjobrien & 2nd Jeremy Goble | 40m, 9 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
14 | ★ Degrees Of Freedom
Rap/belay from ring #10. FA: jjobrien & Sandra Phoenix | 35m, 7 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
14 | ★ The Day the Jugs Ran Out
Bolted, 8 bolts. Rap/belay from ring #10. FA: jjobrien & A. Bailey | 35m, 8 | Mt Tinbeerwah |
Showing all 36 routes.