Ascents of South Face

With Mick and Keith

Great Climb Loved Kor Roof and the pitch after Kor Roof

Bail P7 - storm

Climbed this multi-day Big Wall route in a mega one-day push (car to car in 14 hours), made possible by attempting to freeclimb most of the pitches that are usually aided (I climbed 6 of 11 pitches free, all onsight to 5.10d... and together we only aided 3 pitches). I led (onsight) pitches 1, 2 & 3 (linked), 6, 8 and 9. A great moderately big Big wall, with great climbing on every pitch (except perhaps the last), and surprisingly enjoyable aid climbing. Great position.

Originally climbed this route as a proper big wall (2 days) and got spanked. Stuck behind a slow party in 90 degree full sun, used a few pitches of Southern Man to pass, ran out of water, took a mega whipper, and forced to bivy on top.

Came back to get retribution from our first barely send. Left the bivy gear and the rations on the ground and bagged an in a day winter ascent. We hit an amazing weather window and didn't see another party anywhere the entire day. Simuled first 3 and last 3 pitches and freed up to 5.10d.

The expected dinner ledge shit-show. Watched someone "not a client" being belayed by "not a guide" take 4 hours to lead the kor roof pitch. Luckily we had 2 beaks and could do the southern man var bypass (maybe take 2M+2L beaks next time, camhooks useful, hooks useful) - only a few moves but a bit spicy above the ?expanding flake next to the belay.

Fixed ropes in place from dinner ledge to bottom of scramble access, in OK condition but a bit glazed.

This is a classic first big wall so a must for everyone.

Try to avoid the crowds by starting the route at irregular times. The Kor roof is a massive bottleneck so pack some beaks and hooks and you can bypass the chaos on southern man!.

The bivy is spectacular!

Did it in 2 days with a really beautiful night on dinner ledge. Good for practicing some aid climbing.

Day 1 we climbed to pitch 5 and fixed back to dinner ledge. Stoked to get the redpoint on pitch 2 this time. Day 2 we climbed to pitch 9 however bailed due to running out of daylight before the last pitch. Great adventure.

Tried a one day ascent with a new aid climber in tow. Probably weren't that far off but we decided that beer and food were a better option

Fantastic route, made it to the top of P6 before pack of water and a 25' whip made us decided to retreat.

Got a late start, made it to dinner ledge on first afternoon. Spent a beautiful clear night under the stars watching the lights of other climbers on half dome. Climbed the kor roof pitch the next day, but Laura had a lot of trouble cleaning. After two hours hanging in the harness struggling to clean the lip it was time to retreat. More lowerout and steep cleaning practice required.

with Jadian & Jonah. Our first big wall. Cloudy and windy, but the NOAA forecast was excellent. Jugged P1, led amazing P2 5.10b variation (and fell!), jugged P3. Lunch at dinner ledge. Racking up for P4 when a storm rolled down the valley. We and 3 others quickly bailed, sharing ropes and passing off haul bags. Rainbow across the face of Half Dome was unforgettable. Snow accumulated up the valley. At one point it snowed at one end of a rope and rained at the other. We'll be back!

Retreated after I nearly killed myself in a rappelling accident on the Kor Roof.

Will come back to try this again someday.

Two laps to dinner ledge - both times slowed by parties on the Kor roof but got to practice shortfixing.

Did the first 3 pitches and then had to bail from Dinner Ledge as there was already 11 people staying that night. Freed all 3 pitches with one sit on the rope on pitch 2.