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Ascensions comme Tick, First ascent, Lead, First free ascent ou Solo trad par Jack Seawright

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Affichage de 1 - 100 sur 155 ascensions.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité
Ven 16 Juin 2023 - Squamish
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads centre
5.11a Krimo Gold Trad 160m Classique
Rotte ascent - 3 man team in german - with moritz and elias. 'All good, I enjoy 3 person party. Means you can talk on belay and smoke ciggy together' - Moritz after I thanked the lads for babysitting my partnerless ass for the day.

 
Mar 13 Juin 2023 - Index Town Walls
The Lower Town Walls Lower Town Walls
5.11b Sagittarius (full) Trad Classique
Amazing flake systems out here. Granites definitely grippier up here without the glacier polish but the brain is still in yosemite mode and resulted in me desperately ring locking a 5.8 fairly-obviously-layback crack. Got rained out in the arvo and found a pub to knock some pool balls around with the euros. Would really like to do more climbing here and stoked on how the pacific northwest climbing is feeling coming into squamish season!

 
Mar 6 Juin 2023 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Sentinel Rock Area Sentinel Rock
5.10b Steck-Salathe Trad 460m Dans la moyenne
Steak-salad-day. 'If you cant climb the good-looking 1000m peak, climb its chossier sister'. Id heard about the training methods for this route involving garage door sitting and asphalt parking lot crawling but really henry and i should have put more time into practising going down waterslides at wet and wild without sliding. We got the day started at 5:30 in the carpark to avoid pony-boy's unplanned summit shiver-bivvy scenario. An added incentive was the thunderstorms predicted for the afternoon. But it doesnt rain in yosemite so we werent worried. Got to 'the narrows' at about 2:30, just as the thunderstorm rolled in on schedule. I struggled through with much swearing, henry got the bag stuck on second. I tied him off and rapped back into the chimney to encourage him to ditch the bag! Lucky he had slightly better sense to just take stuff out of the bag till it fit through the chimney. Squeeze struggling while feeling the thunder rattling the rock is a slightly stressful but pretty cool experience. The storm cleared and we went through to the top via an incorrect but very fun series of sporty flake pitches out left, got some photos and then saw another storm inbound. A double header! Tailed it down the gully at 7:15. The rain belted us as we raced down choss, followed by slippery slab waterfalls, henry hurriedly navigating. One particularly sketchy downclimb was bailed off and an impromptu rap down the slabs cost us a couple of slings but we were granted our continued survival in exchange. This journey was being viewed by all our friends through binos in the comfort of camp 4 so were glad we could provide some wet-weather entertainment. After another hour of glissading through broken trees and avoiding unannounced cliffs and waterfalls, we stumbled across a tourist track at 10:15. The car was parked for 16:45. I cant imagine what henry and i will go through on our second climb together. We both deserved the bin pancakes i promised for someone climbing stalathe with me on my facebook ad.

 
Mer 31 Mai 2023 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face
5.7 R Snake Dike Trad 550m Classique
12.5hrs car to car. Pretty glad we planned it this time and started at 530 instead of 9! 3 person party with audrey and ariel. Solid nav efforts from audrey kept me from running after the wrong approach trail cairns like a puppy. Ariel contributed with the surprise mini fireball bottle at the top right as the clouds consumed us. Nicer climbing than i expected and good spirits only started to diminish on the hell of a hike back afterwards. Mandatory snow but slides on the east side of the dome were checked off. I booked the last 5k of the hike so i could make dinner for 25min before the girls arrived. Little did i know they were only 3min behind me! Bit of a dog act making them wait for my pasta to boil

 
Dim 28 Mai 2023 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face
5.9 Central Pillar of Frenzy Trad 170m Super classique
Doesnt get better than this. 4 ultra classic grade 17s stacked on top of eachother. No boring moves, directly across from el cap. Good way to send tony off. There was still a snow pack at the base with a 6m+ shrund to step over onto the climb which tony led so i was bracing for it being a really bad way to send him off.

 
Mer 24 Mai 2023 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area
5.10b The Super Slacker Highway Trad mixte 180m, 16 Classique
Great adventure route. Pick your own line up 'the wall of knobs'. Many knobs to choose from but only 2 of them clipped the chains at the top of pat and jack pillar. Tony has rediscovered himself as a chimney climber - positively brimming with joy as he back pressed the final chute to the summit. I expect to have to talk him out of free soloing steck salathe.

 
Sam 20 Mai 2023 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
5.9 Northeast Buttress Trad 280m Classique
Great adventure. Probably second tallest rock climb ive done to caucasus corner in the bumbles. First time climbing with Ina. She threw down to get through the 5 straight pitches of chimney weirdness. As expected with the incredibly ominous 5.9++ rating and learning that one particular 5.14 valley climber didnt send this thing, there was some suspiciously tricky 5.9 but nothing too insane. I got stuck for about 5 minutes on the 7th pitch. Having forgot my headtorch, i was relieved that we topped the climb around 4 and got some drop dead views of the nose from 1000m off the valley floor directly across the valley from it. 'The sketchiest part of the day was jack drinking water from the sludge river 2 minutes from the carpark as far as im concerned' - Ina.

 
Dim 7 Mai 2023 - Red Rock
Black Velvet Canyon Black Velvet Wall
5.10a IV Dream of Wild Turkeys Trad 300m Classique
The plan: have an easy multi day in vegas on the way to yosemite. Reality: Get to the base after 10, already 4 parties on it. I choof up the variant start called the gobbler. Thought it was called that after someones college nickname but turns out a rope gobbling crack meant i had to climb 5m with the rope in my teeth and then tony had to self belay below it. Eventually joined on to the route, bailed after p5 cos we were still at the back of the train and it got too windy even after borrowing 2 different jackets off people at belay stations. All was not lost, tony found a perfect piss chimney at p3. We saved a partys stuck rope on the way down and walked out heroes! Heroes that bailed off a mostly bolted 5.10a that gets done 15 times a day. It did give us time to go look at the strip afterwards and have a cheeky slap on the pokes though.

 
Mar 25 Avr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress
5.11+ The Big Baby Trad Classique
Couldnt turn the roof on fists. Once the aid train starts its hard to stop! Freed a couple sections but really full cred goes to the no.6s that pulled me most of the way. Especially the one i chocked in the 5 section and had to send 3 tr heros up to eventually free it with a brick size rock. Shane tr sent with hallies pink trackies on. A sight. Tony had spare zip ties to replace the wire-trigger attachment shane blew out trying to free it from the wall, so i could sheepishly return the stuck 6 to its rightful owner in the campsite, having severely lowered its life expectancy. Maybe we leave the OWs for the walls where they have to be done rather than electing to do them at crags, at the expense of perfectly good cracks of tasteful sizes.

 
Jeu 20 Avr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Beef Basin Road Way Rambo
5.11- Serrator Crack Trad 21m Dans la moyenne
Had to write this one up. First whip on a number 5, first and not last time dropping c bombs at crowded indian creek crags. First time getting my knee stuck and feeling genuine concern that i had cedar wrighted myself. First time walking a 5 well into groundfallville. First time laybacking a 5.8 number 7 crack and first time attempting to place a green big bro roughly 7 or 8 times in the last 10m and finally succeeding (?) when the chains were gained anyway. I may not have got my knee stuck as badly as cedars but pretty sure i shit myself just as hard up there. Proper creek-gumbyage

 
Jeu 20 Avr 2023 - Potash Road
Wall Street Reflector Post #6
5.11b Static Cling Trad 21m Classique
Probably the best route tony antoine and i lapped at wall street - the crag where you can belay out your car window. Makes kps approach seem like frenchmans cap. A nice face climbing break from the endless expanse of splitters outside moab

 
Lun 17 Avr 2023 - Castle Valley
The Rectory
5.11a III Fine Jade Trad 110m Super classique
Rectory castleton link day! Last day climbing with antoine. 2 towers 1 day. Fine jade up the rectory and north face of castleton. Great day

 
Jeu 13 Avr 2023 - Fisher Towers
Ancient Art
5.10 Stolen Chimney Trad mixte 95m, 12 Classique
One of the most identifiable pieces of rock (or mud?) in the world and a great experience being up on the diving board. Pretty good level of strenuousness for 2 pretty cooked individuals. Glad antoine suggested this one

 
Mar 11 Avr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 North Sixshooter Peak
5.11b III Lightning Bolt Cracks Trad 99m Super classique
Abit shorter than the bridger jacks but definitely a more epic view on top and definitely more lights out climbing on average. The roof on the second mega pitch has the exposure of disco non stop party. Never shit myself harder on perfect hands. Chimney up high almost involved a harness removal, luckily ive gone jusssst easy enough on the rip off oreos back at camp.

 
Mar 11 Avr 2023 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 Bridger Jack Spires King of Pain
5.10d R Vision Quest Trad 140m Super classique
Wicked adventure and stellar first desert tower. A real alpine touch at the end, i started climbing the wrong pillar and had to get my knee stuck to pull my phone out and access mountain project to discover i needed the other pillar. Accidentally booted antoines new 3 into the back of a chimney. Expensive kick that was.

 
Sam 1 Avr 2023 - Red Rock
Juniper Canyon Rose Tower
5.7 PG Olive Oil Trad 300m
Not what we set out to climb.. we had planned an assault on drifting. Antoines mate had told him it doesnt get done much so its probably sandbagged. We held our hope.. and.. made it to the 3rd bolt.. of the entire route. Antoine and i got sandbagged hard by this absolute mincer of a slab move that reeks of 5.12. Being north facing, there was still alot of snow and our fingers were freezing on the wall, but still. Fook. We took advantage of the approach by punching out a very alpine style ascent of olive oil with some questionable on-the-fly clove hitch simul cache adjustments. Copped a swim in the creek on the way down and a dirty bin feed disposed of by an angry mexican at a bbq house back in vegas. Ytbins.

 
Ven 31 Mars 2023 - Red Rock
Oak Creek Canyon Eagle Wall Area
5.11c Levitation 29 Trad mixte 300m, 20 Super classique
Despite paranoia that the wet rock police would come slash our tyres in the carpark, tony and i got up for sunrise brekky and tore into the park for the '1 to 3 hour' approach - 2:50 and we were booking it.. MP sandbaggers. We took tonys new tag line up apparently to tag a single jumper, but it came in handy on the way down when the estimated 72m rope turned out to be sub-70 and we had to beaner-block to get down. An approach first for both of us when tonys jacket loosely perched on top of his pack on the walkout got poached by a tree branch without him realizing till 15 min down the trail! It makes sense to ramble on about the approach cos it was half the day and featured some fun rock hopping in a beautiful canyon but being lyn hills favourite rock climb carries expectation and this route lived up to it. Absolute moves the whole way and the fang roof on p2 is insane. Im quite surprised and stoked to come away with the all onsight/clean despite 3 holds disintegrating on the final pitch and a bunch of other parts that could have gone either way. Spirits were high the whole day despite some backpacks being gnawed into by squirrels and a pack of HEB cookies was demolished dangerously quickly back at hotel contagion.

 
Jeu 30 Mars 2023 - Red Rock
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Yin and Yang
5.11a Yin and Yang Trad 12m Super classique
Thin hand traverse jugs with toe hook and swing! Most aesthetic crack ive ever seen. Antoine took some good gear whips. We convinced a californian kid there for tr solo to lead it as his first 11 on gear and it snowed on him. Still went to the chains, legend. Found an unguidebooked finger crack around the back of the area that climbed super nicely. Lucky we didnt multi today as planned, its axe weather out there.

 
Dim 12 Fév 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan
Summit Caves
15 Overexposed Trad 120m Classique
Couldnt have filled the last day in aus with much more climbing than today. 8 pitches total. The kobemaster set us off at 12:40 from the base, up what must have felt like a very sweaty patience crack - and very hard for 15. That is because my sandbagging was out in full force; direct variant, grade 19. The big marn cruised it though. From the top of patience, a cool ramble across some grassy ledges put us back on the right wall to attack our main objective. We began overexposed around 2:50ish i think. P1 wasnt as fucked as i thought it would be. Youd rail yourself if you fell but i think grade 15 is actually fair. By this time the wind had picked right up and spooge wasnt a worry. From here it was poetry in motion as kobi and i traded solos up the winding territory through the caves. All was easy breezy.. until my rope got a massive couple tugs while belaying the 5th pitch, i look up to see kobis body ragdolling down the slab. After about 10m he was caught in a figure 4 position with a pulled cam stuck around his leg. We later joked he must have been already re-working the beta before the fall had finished. The green half nut that caught him remains in the wall.. not cos we couldnt get it out, but as a memorial for the scene of one of the most unideal, non-serious injury resultant whips thats ever occured anywhere. "Ah well good to get the first trad whip out the way" will need to be engraved on a plaque and drilled into the wall next to it. If you do see the piece, downclimb outta there and get back on the route which was about 15m to the left! Also bears mentioning to be careful of the rock up top whichever way you go, some of it tricked my choss radar and i also kicked some edges off. Topped out at about 5:30. Beaut sunset scenes on the walk off. Cracker day

 
Ven 10 Fév 2023 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
22 Bitter and Twisted Trad 45m Classique
Planned to climb with just kyle this morning: kyle at 830pm last night: just met a yosemite climber in the gym.. i think ive talked him into frog in the morn. Me: cool well bring him. Leave at 6? Kyle: cool! Nah 4. Fuck. My eyes sting. Worth it though, 5 longish pitches done! In feb on a 31degree day with a party of 3! We were moving. Alex was moving on conquistador. Onsight speed record probably, he looked way to smooth. So i stepped in, kyle, i said, enough with this donating him classics, im gonna show him what happens on your ~60th trip out here. Now alex has experienced 4 classics and a wasp infested arete variant jammed between some classics! Shit talk aside though, this was surprisingly good. Cant decide whether the traverse out from totga felt contrived or delightfully airy, but once the reachy carrot is clipped, 20m worth of thoughtful side pulls, blind holds and high feet on both sides of the arete ensues. Definitely a deserving route in its own right even amongst elite company either side. Started getting warm up high so we collected our chips and headed to get kyles favourite steak sanga and i pilfered alex for his usa beta.

 
Sam 28 Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress
21 Aquilla Trad 80m Classique
Aquilla and dangerman plus a cheeky tr over master blaster which is impossible to free i think. Had to ascend the tr on 2 prussiks to retrieve a cam which sucked abit but thankfully no lunches dropped off belay ledges today. Dangerman is still the sickest pitch at robins and potentially anywhere. Back to camp early for the ceremonial cooking of pedro and yulis mammoth zucchini.

 
Mer 25 Jan 2023 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Flowstone Wall
22 ~19 Arocknaphobia Trad mixte 160m, 21 Classique
What we really came for. Matt battled a potentially broken toe to face another day of slabbing. 2:15 from car to rap chains. The approach is absolutely apart of why you do this route. Pretty much the skyline traverse. Maybe i should log the skyline traverse? Nah. Too many rules on thecrag. Anyway. Bring doubles or an 80m rope cos we had to rap off a bolt 240 slung to a cam in a scoop. In fairness though, the route climbs this section so if you have a 240 and are happy to bring an extra no. 3, a 70 will be fine. Great first 2 pitches, rather uneventful up high, but the adventure out to flowstone is worth while for sure. The aid move is also well and truly an aid move, how someone freed that bulge at any grade is beyond me. Even aiding was hard. A stash of sour gummies got us back to sleepy bay and eventually richies for a swim followed by brrz.

 
Dim 22 Jan 2023 - Mt Blackwood Summit
22 Poisoned Equanimity Trad 35m Classique
Finally feels like tassie again doing 1hr scree approaches. God the rock is grippy here. Some pinky down finger torques feeling like hand jams out here. Who among them, poisoned and airbourne for me today. Fell off the move on the airbourne arete to the horn on feet as delicate as a life size house made of cards. "Why does a gr 20 arete feel 5 grades harder than the 22 crack". Delicious climbing, crag vibe on with kris as always but also rach and alex today, and eyes peeled for any romcom release about a guy that collects coffee cups and a girl that collects lids. Yes our minds were warped after the scree rambling.

 
Mer 18 Jan 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan
Carborundum Wall
11 Carborundum Chimney Trad 92m Super classique
5 person gumblie train up this absolute institute of a route. Jarred chartered straight up a blank slab with some sporadic rps to avoid rope drag which was wild. I again managed to drop a couple turrets down the chimney which is unfortunately dangerous and hard to avoid. I helpfully recommended jarred and ella sling backpacks below then as they topped oit of the chimney. Kobi and georgia cruised through behind us with impeccable wriggle techas.

 
Jeu 29 Déc 2022 - North Head
Main Area
19 R The Fear Trad 47m Classique
Another imaginary ascent on this line. Fresh off a bed sleep in sydney, we were ready to g.. lethargic as fuck. Parked up, impressed the muggles at the tourist area with our busty racks, fixed a line to a shiny new bollard. Felt like cheating but the ladders simply arent an option anymore. Teetered across the ledge to the start. P1 was smooth sailing, p2 was a problem solving challenge but the y man nailed it. I was chuffed to figure out the very cryptic boulder problem off the belay. That second pitch is like the spartan but over the ocean with more exposure and atmosphere and imo better climbing, allbeit harder. Reaching down on the slab to get the feet gear was my crux in the end. Part of yims anchor up top was a construction site fence. Im sure the fullfilment those tradies would feel to hear this would make their year.

 
Sam 24 Déc 2022 - Blue Lake
Elephant Buttress
20 Trunkline Trad 30m Super classique
"One of the best routes anywhere" it says on the description. It doesnt look like much but we had bailed on the cathedral at buffalo to come climb in the roof of australia at blue lake (luckily no one described it to me as a roof or i might have said no). Yim and i cruised in past the gorgeous snow gums and ended up needing to employe some alpine tricks to navigate the still very deep and high angle snow pack at the base of the cliffs. Traversing via an intermittent bergshrund system and some light soloing got us to mindbender which yim took, and from there, rapped down dihedral corner, contemplated doing it but i couldnt get that one of the best routes ever line out of my head. I insisted on a ground anchor and lead belay across a steep section of corniced snow around the corner. A rope stretching traverse to the start of trunkline. Some comms problems delayed us abit and i did a solo down to the corner to shout to yim that he was kind of on belay. He pointed out later i could have just via ferrated into the climbing rope. Very true. Anyway, both of us had the weight of belay faff eradicated from our minds by a pitch that lived up to its description. Crux could be in 4 different places depending on your preferred style. I particularly loved the stem into committed finger layback sequence. The top out offwidth was abit rude with a deathblock being the only hold on selection but absolutely gobsmacking pitch. Yim and i took post climb celebration seriously with a but slide down the lower angle snow slope at the side of the crag and an inevitable skinny dip in blue lake. One of the golden days of the trip

 
Lun 19 Déc 2022 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress
17 Where Angels Fear to Tread Trad 230m Classique
450am alarm goes off. I spring out of bed. After 5 hrs gear preparation the day before, we were about to embark on our biggest climbing mission yet! 530 just as we pulled bags over shoulders, a dirtbag mobile rolls up with 2 dirtbags in it. Even before they stop, we see haul bags through the window. An awkward discussion ensued between the 4 of us and we realised once they mentioned their bags were at the bottom that we would not be climbing ozymandias today. Instead we accepted a bribe of 4 mountain goat tinnies and lugged our stuff to the start of angels. Yim walked the haul bag down the gully like it was a toy poodle. I went to fill the water from the creek and dropped the cap into the stream. Fuckn day is cursed. We climbed angels in 4 long pitches which worked quite well. The finger crack finish before the first big ledge gave me the most curry. But plenty of moments provoking some thought. Skipped caligula instead opting to nap in prep for attempt 2 at ozy tomorrow.

 
Ven 16 Déc 2022 - Orroral area
Booroomba Rocks North Buttress Determinant Sector
15 Determinant (extended) Trad mixte 160m, 1 Classique
Nice climb in a 3 person faff train. Me, yim and faith. Some simuling due to 50m pitches 3 peeps and 1 70m rope. Traverse pitch was memorable. Faith toughing it out to top her p4 lead aswell. Burgers and beer at fyshwick afterwards. Approach trail down the middle of booroomba wasnt the funnest.

 
Mar 13 Déc 2022 - Bungonia Gorge
North Wall - Main
22 Strangeness and Charm Trad mixte 150m, 20 Classique
Were here on school camp with newy state high. Some genuinely delightful company from the gang over dinner and a refreshingly selfie heavy camera roll after leaving my phone on the can this morning. Wow i really got off track here. We got to the climb after yim and i somehow lost eachother on the canyon approach. The local 18R made for a very intreguing p1, was very stoked with my first 'nut stack' placement. I was reminded of how yim actually did this purely from improvisation on only his 3rd trad multi a year ago. I have decided that limestone is honest froth fuel and that laybacking is infact mandatory. Rattly jams: optiona.. a bad idea. Yeah. 3 pitches of beaut, p4 decent, p5 trash, bailed, downclimbed and rapped off. Climbed the wailing cockatoo direct start afterwards, feeling pretty good about myself and well.. that cockatoo ate my lunch, drank my beer and took my girl to the movies. Gear stashed for evolution and a nice hike out via the opposite side of the gorge ft. a lovely smelling cave.

 
Mar 6 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area
20 Solomon - avec Matthew Robbins Trad mixte 51m, 4 Classique
Single pitch thrash to the top of piddo. Matt had to wrestle out a couple cams that had made a get away into the crack. I was shown the superior method of tradding afterwards on gemini with an impressive 'royal flush' in hex bingo. Even ordered correctly.

 
Mar 6 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head
20 True dreams Trad 40m Super classique
Not alot of dreams came true finding the wall but they sure did on this climb! Good to link with rickety rick again and patrol the highlands of odin head hunting wild cracks

 
Ven 25 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass West Side
20 Better Than Ben Hur Trad 160m Excellent
A canyon and choss adventure day. Left car park at 745. Scrambled with much sketch up a landslide gully, hugged the cliff, negotiated an approach pitch that i dived into a little too hastily at about 920. The route in general is probably more aesthetic than it is good in movement but certainly has its moments going through the many roof traverses. Climbing generally gets better with height which was nice. Probably nothing harder than gr18 but the grade probably reflects the need to have quite a good temprament under big easy runouts and most importantly, the ability to discern between good holds and landmines. Yim got a head jam in p5 that he insisted on a photo of. Finished climbing at 2, somehow only made the car at 5 after a couple raps, a skinny dip in the creek and alot of swearing at broken branches. Then to cap it off a red belly black arked up at yim 50m from the carpark.

 
Mer 23 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald Head Long Routes
18 R Serendipitous Cracks - avec Georgia Forster, Kobi Wickens, yimbo Trad 210m Bon
Yim and i sandbagged ourselves on a 25 we thought was a 23 at the base of serendipitous. 45m. Couldnt finish cos of ropelength and thats definitely the only reason so the bail biner went in. Kobi trucked up the gearless 1st pitch for us and we got underway with what we meant to do. We had lunch on the ledge and went up weld party. I pulled on a crimp off the deck while randomly soloing and ripped it off, punched myself in the face. Slightly black eye. The gang loved weld, kind of like the best of bunny bucket without the shit climbing. Yims commentating of his own climbing rubbed off on georgia who announced and posed for a footloose/cutloose photo. Yim got stuck in a squeeze boulder on the approach trail and left his phone in it.

 
Lun 21 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower
20 Clockwork Orange - avec yim the pitch linker Trad 61m Classique
Little sidebranch from the upper shitley day. The waterfall was falling upwards with the wind so the rap down was actually a canyon and we were soaked on p1. Committing moves at the start felt trickier than the crux pitch but maybe i was just wet. We were both pretty stoked on the route and stumbled out the top in time to get up 4 pitches at upper. Good stuff

 
Lun 14 Nov. 2022 - Kangaroo Point
KP North
19 Foreclosure V Trad mixte 20m, 3 Dans la moyenne
Id been hanging for a while to do this one and pushed our 2nd aid training session into the sun to jump on first thing this morning, but like johnny on beau brummel, i was sadly disappointed. 1 nice rockover move high on the arete but the crack is contrived and can be used more easily to stem against the corner instead. The flop onto the ledge at the chains completes the trinity of nice looking moves that are actually a pain in the arse I took out my frustration on the portaledge later on.

 
Ven 11 Nov. 2022 - Mt Maroon
East Face
20 Beau Brummel - avec johnny yim kyle Trad 180m Dans la moyenne
Hows this for an rsvp: kyle gets invited on a multi at 2am, 7 hours before were to meet in maroon carpark. 5am we get the affirmative. 4 man squad it is. We all watched johnny brag about his 20 slings and i took the bait, telling him to shut up about his slings and get moving. Funny unrelated detail. I ran out of slings on every pitch and had more rope drag than the tug of war world championships on the crux pitch. After deciding to leave johnnys empty coffee cup on the ground and risk 1 drop spilling in the ground bag, we set off. More grass climbing than rock climbing and more rock trundleing than rock climbing. still not really sure if we were on route but a choss wrangling adventure was had. I low-key epiced out abit on the crux pitch, climbing a thin corner, realising i couldnt keep moving and was well run out and having to downclimb it all. Deep breaths and self-reassuring that my calves werent pumping out were my most vivid memories of that corner. A rope stretching triple pitch got us to the exit gully. At one point i kind of sat back after clipping a cam. Didnt call take, the rope drag 'took' me. My unsung belayer. Johnny was not super stoked on the climb. I told him its not a rock climb, its Beau brummel, where boys become men and men realise that they are really just little boys on a big piece of rock. The discussion continued on the way down the hill facilitated by johnny as to why the fuck yim and i climb routes like this. Celebration beer at boonah cricket ground at 9:30pm with maegurang

 
Jeu 10 Nov. 2022 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
21 22 Steel Fingers - avec jesper and then yim hijacked his second Trad 40m Excellent
22 start is pretty thin alright. Skipped it after 2 fails. Varied climbing up corner then wild traverse into r&r. Bailed off r&r last time due to not enough gear so all the climbing was new to me. Johnny and yim had front row seats of the top half from theory ledge. Laughed at me for the rope drag, then asked me to pause in positions for photos while cruxing out. Yim even said "nah dont hold the jug, looks better if you hold the crimp". Eventually it was jespers turn. He had had enough by the traverse, fair enough. I lowered him off just as yim rolled up and tied straight in. Gettin warm at froggie but snuck this in before the fucked sun.

 
Mar 8 Nov. 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
22 Insomnia - avec Johnny Sullivan Trad 40m Classique
Much better than last years gear zipper retreat attempt. Some facey moves down low teased my fingies abit but the jamming and ow felt very secure. One of the best lines out here for steamy stemming and i like abit of air uo between my legs. Dont take that the wrong way.. no do actually.

 
Ven 4 Nov. 2022 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
21 20 Cannabis Crack - avec myles Trad 40m Excellent
Is it 20 or 21 the jury is out. I vote 21. Overhanging double finger press with blind footjams is kind of rude for 20. Rather backhanded way for me to welcome myles back to outdoor climbing. Myles: "ah crux is abit hard, lower me down cheers mate!" Me from my elay at the BST chains well off to the right: "ahhh how do i put this gently.. this one is a mandatory top out mate.. sorry." Speaking of rude at 20, trap for young players is surely at least 23 for fat fingered gentlemen goizus. Was not expecting that humbling right before lunch. Drank it off at the doogs with an ORIGINAL northern while myles out-hydrated me with a crisp. Probably the superior option all things considered.

 
Jeu 3 Nov. 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
21 Oppenheimer's Monster - avec Kyle Addy Trad mixte 25m, 2 Excellent
Iron mandy, antifrom, oppenheimers and drop out. Good morning with kyle and a couple up-and-comers on the frog scene. I may have accidentally stood on a carrot on oppenheimers.. hmm.. not sure. Right in the cruxy section aswell. Dodgy form. Placing gear up top was the job of a librarian stacking the shelves. Move the rock to the side and stuff the gear in.

 
Mer 2 Nov. 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan
Celestial Wall
20 The Celestine Prophecy - avec yim Trad 75m Excellent
Still dont know where clemency is supposed to start so sent yim up some non-descript midteen slab but he eventually found the base of pitch 2. Tried to link, couldnt back himself so he brought me up. P2 needed a siege in the end. Both of us had failed goes before yim pulled it and went to the top of p3. Quite a serious and bouldery pitch for a couple frog fellas, requiring some specific cams that you wouldnt want to fail. The frog climbing came to be of some use though. Very happy to get frontman spot for the chimney pitch. Absolute classic climbing and felt like a breeze compared with p2. Loaded up yim with yet another bold sequence off the deck on p5 that he nearly dropped after a footslip. Some tense moments with a blind cam placement between him and a pretty bad factor 2 but commonsense, hangdogging and sneaky kneebars prevailed. I also suffered abit on this pitch but thankfully we still had enough steam to get up voluptuous and erp in about as good style as p5 on prophecy. Cracking weather at the mount today. I wondered beforehand if proximity to rubicon would affect the 'trad feel' but it didnt really: Lesser number of reachable bolts than trojan Good on ya matt for establishing ground up! I think we took some of the wrapping paper (scaley surface choss) off it for ya.

 
Sam 15 Oct. 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
23 Deliverance - avec 6staryim and rickety Trad 45m Super classique
What starts as horseshit pinscar aiding (not necessarily aid climbing, i chose to aid) turns into some lifechanging climbing up high with a showstopper boulder crux. Call me tomoa seawright. Im a boulderer now. Got up there and before i knew it, found myself out on the arete in a very much undownclimbable position. To quote the 2009 box office classic 'groove train' starring lee cossey; "i was definitely screaming like some sort of... ... (shrugs) .. dunno". Stoked to pull through and sunbake up top with rick while yim did more talking than climbing on 'third'. 9 star morning with totga and quisto getting a run from the boys.

 
Ven 14 Oct. 2022 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
20 21 The Stars Look Down - avec chris Trad 18m Super classique
Absolute classic. Actually good gear the whole crux if you do it in daylight. Great keyhole wire in there. Good to not take the crazy whip again! Did this with a random fella from araps who was escaping a party of 3, as was i. Decided of all the splitters he was missing in araps, id take him up one of the most araps style climbs at the crag, like an aussie ordering a fish and chips in the alps.

 
Sam 8 Oct. 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
19 Humility - avec nicole Trad 15m Excellent
Pretty serious little piece. Nice to fiddle with the rps again. Nice not to test them with a 75kg fall. Moves are quite cool. Bring on arete season!

 
Ven 7 Oct. 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine - avec Kyle Addy, manny Trad 33m Excellent
Cool right foot offwidthing. The lads had a chuckle at my efforts to place a wire at one point. It almost went in. But alas, another pure cam ascent. Sport climbing with portable bolts. Some angry ants at half height taking up some real estate on a pretty good hold there. Pop some mortein in the chalk bag gang.

 
Jeu 6 Oct. 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
18 Warlock - avec tim Trad 26m Excellent
Direct start is thinner than a pack a day dart puncher. Relieved my halfnut from further pounding and came in from yankee. Much better. Nice unique movement and some orgasmic jamming up high. Worrrrtthittttt

 
17 If - avec tim Trad 30m Excellent
Dont solo to the ledge! Get a couple pieces in before the mantle. I double alpine kneed! Tim had to avert his eyes from such punter style. Rest of the route is quite nice though. I hereby sanction this route.. wwwwworth it!

 
Jeu 22 Sept 2022 - Arapiles
Northern Group Kachoong Area
21 Kachoong - avec roofboiyim Trad mixte 25m, 1 Excellent
The wall was fun on my lead attempt and enjoyed aid seconding after yims impressive near flash of the roof. Got a lift back from dane and co after being advised soloing up to kachoong ledge wasnt the regular approach. Dane is a bloke i can get around. He refused to give yim beta while leading kachoong and he layed into him again in the car when yim questioned the route back to camp.

 
Mer 21 Sept 2022 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
19 Telemachus - avec squeezemasterjim Trad 35m Classique
Luke and i are still unsure of yims opinion on this climb. Lacking on-climb commentary as per usual. This climb was an amazing adventure through starkly contrasting terrain. Felt like a mountain climb all rolled into a pitch (rope drag was like pulling a 737). Yims current list of araps favourites: 1. Telemachus 2. Michael berry squeeze 3. Nothing. Luke had a very unexpected ground fall/jump off necrophiliac and yim turned out to be the squeezemaster later this evening as declared in the boulder and on the can. Ask him for further info he will be delighted to inform.

 
Mar 13 Sept 2022 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
12 Watchtower Chimney - avec Will West Trad mixte 110m, 1 Classique
Class! First stuck nut of the trip. First stuck torso of the trip. Second stuck torso of the trip. First accidental rap down watchtower right not realising the rap route was double ropes only. First time ascending only p3 of brolga to escape and walk down the gully. First narration of wills foot movements to help him use some blind hack beta to escape a rather rude finish to oceanoids first pitch. Seriously. Where are the holds there? The route setter was clearly very precise with the first 43m!

 
Lun 12 Sept 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
18 Death Row - avec Kris Penn Trad 45m Super classique
Took so long for me to complete but so worth it for this adventurey girdle up the pinnacle. 3 exciting sections. Kris had told me earlier in the day its a classic move of his to fall off after the crux and i remember hanging on to the final jugs yelling out that i think im gonna 'pull a kris'. Threw down some absolute wtf heel hook/thumb down jamb/press and snuck through. This and crooked mile for me today which was also a delight. Really vibing grade 18 out here. Enough to stir the pot but nothing insane.

 
Dim 11 Sept 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
14 Lamplighter - avec Will West Trad 78m Super classique
New araps favourite and one of the best adventures ive been on. Unlikely as hell at 14. Important details: will forgot how to tie a figure 8 then put me the wrong way on the grigri. All good hes having a rest day tomorrow. Warmed down on agent orange and the shroud which both provided stellar movement. Pharoahs providing the goods

 
Jeu 25 Août 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan
Carborundum Wall
21 Airtime Over Pumicestone - avec scotchfingerman Trad mixte 250m, 24 Excellent
Thanks Sam Pearson for the nomination. A classic sea to summit route of tibro! I chucked a cam in way out left on p1 that caused insane drag and got into abit of a crunch at the next bolt. Copped a phone call from the place i interviewed at on tuesday.. didnt get the job. Thank god. There was another round of interviews apparently. I was safer from employment than i thought. I saftied into the bolt while yim soloed to my cam and got it out so i could keep climbing. Definitely bolted to be a trad multi.. i was pretty keen to not fall on quite a few sections on all pitches. I may have avoided cruxing on the 3rd pitch but my traverse out left and subsequent regaining of the climb could have easily bombed yim with a factor 2. Felt quite risky, should have just punched the jugs. We enjoyed lunch above pitch 4, stoked after the improbable flake move at the top before walking around to find p6. We found it. Fuck. Where is the pro? Bouldered through it. Felt bold but the holds were amazing. It would be both scary and maybe funny? to see someone deck it off that start into the bushes. Topping this pitch, delighted at the lovely slabbing, i pulled rope till i could see the end with no scotchfingerman attached, followed by yim calling out for the rope. Fuck. Had to rap down, chuck him the rope and jug back up. Big marn was on his phone apparently.. Big bush bash reminiscent of colloseum corner, then down caves, showering some dirt on an angry local 'guide' double strand rapping at the same time and rope as his girlfriend 5m above. Nice. Cant give him too much shit, we found ourselves 'simuljugging' second day in a row from overshooting anchors. Still alive and most importantly, unemployed.

 
Jeu 21 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles
Tonduron
8 5 South Arete - avec boys in the bungs Trad 170m Classique
Encore lap for the boys. A wildlife tour along the backroads of the bumbles to get to the tondy carpark it was! Apparently it was.. i missed all the emus for writing crag logs. After a very welcome skinny dip, we pulled up close to the correct spot and inadvertantly set a trap for will with an upside down, open hommus container which he dumped into the back of the car. Yim and i dived in with wrap-mops and slurped up every dusty lick of it. His boots never been cleaner. Found the right spot eventually and waited for yim to put 1 gaitor on to test it wtf? We finally resorted to bush bashing and eventually sketchy scrambling to find the start of the route as pictured on thecrag but we got there in the end. Then the sketchiness continued all the way up! In perfect quantities.. nothing too bad, constantly thoughtful moves and route finding that involved the 4 of us working together to bumble our way up and eventually pour drivle into another analog logbook. On the way down a ringlock crack caught our attention. Yim beat me to the FA so boulderers of the bumbles might finally have something to do! Good luck getting the pads up there. The way down was much the same as the way up.. spades of traversing whack wet slabs and route finding faff. Eventually greg flopped out the half rope to get down the last bit of the descent. As gay and lighthearted as our late mate eric dark described it in the day. Not as grade 5 though.

 
Jeu 21 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles
Bluff Mountain
18 Flight of the Phoenix - avec yim the phoenix Trad 310m Classique
Disappointingly smooth sailing to use yims beloved contradicting adjectives. 70min from balor, never lost the path. 2nd pitch was the highlight for me, but things got uncomfy from the rap down the corner. Scrappy gear anchor and a couple moves off the anchor for yim on an rp that did not stand the test of rope drag for even 5 metres, but he glided all the way through the bulge to a ledge, perfectly using the whole rope. Another delighful pitch. From here it was warrumbumbling to the top. Yim decided to change into his hiking shoes at the halfway mark, stumbling up a gr 15 on some smears at one point. 1 little route-finding phoepa for me that cost a couple minutes but honestly you can get from the rap to the top in 3 hours so im not sure how people keep having epics.. the closest we got was accidentally pissing on ourselves at the p6 lunch spot. It was very windy. Benny and daz invited us over to their side of the hut for a fire tonight! Nice to have the invite returned.

 
Jeu 21 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - avec yim daz and benny Trad 330m Classique
Started the day with a heinous bushbash that regrettably didnt need to be done. Found the start before darren and ben arrived but darren still overtook me on belay. He ran out of rope in an inconvenient little groove which made passing him fun "i hate it here". I had yelled out to yim telling him to move left on his pitch to go up the rib as prescribed but doctors orders were neglected and yim chartered his way across some runout face and somehow refound the route. We stopped for lunch on the pith 5 landing where darren later admitted he tried every manipulative conversation techniques to sneak him and ben ahead of us. They didnt need to in the end, yim went way too low on the traverse and started shedding the cliff so ben was able to 'offer to help us by skipping ahead' for the traverse. This pitch was fantastic and yim loudly proclaimed his love for benny for the photo he got from above of yim leading across. A little later on, ben ran into trouble when a peg lead him into a choss field he started knocking rocks and i sought refuge under a massive detached block that he was standing on, while 12m runout diahonally from the corner. Serious sketch levels for abit but most importantly, this allowed me to take the lead again! I belayed on a broken ledge in the corner and shot yim off onto the north face while darren got his boys lost again and making us unpassable. I quested the last 3 pitches with one rope and we were at the top of the spire. I thought the days sandbagging was finally over but i was wrong! Will and greg had earlier rapped the descent (same for vertigo) and told me id be fine to skip the first chains. Didnt make it to the second chains and had to tether to a tree and hang off it. Benny lead us through the traverse off the bottom of the spire.. i dont know how he could continue to be confident in his orienteering skills after the day gone, but he was right this time. The boys had the fire and fireball ready for us back at the hut. A classic day

 
Jeu 21 Juil 2022 - Warrumbungles
Crater Bluff
14 Cornerstone Rib - avec bumbleboyz will yim, greg Trad 190m Classique
Will calling yim out on the uq mountain chat for filming a vlog at the top of p4 instead of putting me on belay and holding the train up was a highlight (or a frustrating light at the time). Another highlight (stupid light) was borrowing yims sunscreen at the top of the route while lying down, then applying and then trying to throw it back and throwing it off the cliff! Landed on a ledge 7m down so yim downclimbed on hip belay to get it. Greg placed 2 boat anchors apparently (tri cams the size of my head attached to the beaner by a yellow seat belt). Would have been a mish to lug them to the crag but the harness aesthetic was beyond incredible.

 
Jeu 14 Juil 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan
Summit Caves
13 Trojan - avec yim the mantle choker Trad 73m Super classique
Another day of days at the big t. We scrambled up caves and traversed sketchily around the slab before locating karma dogma. Yim led, at gr 20 it felt quite hard at the crux. Abit one move wondery but nice. The real single pitch sport classic is on the araps rock on the left. Bird of prey p1 actually felt easier than karma dogma for me, really unique movement in the middle on the diagonal ramp and interesting holds up top with a spicy top out. First gr 22 onsight for me and yim denied a flash at the chains for the second time this week. I would have logged it separately as an onsight but ive been tipped off that people are being grilled pretty hard for onsight logs atm so im timid to log anything for fear of crag prosecution. Luncheon, followed by the trojinator. I led 1 and 2. Quite taken aback actually with p1. Couldnt really find any worthwhile gear and was abit worried about greasing off the slopers putting rps into cracked jugs so i soloed the pitch.. which was originally the plan, but i found myself fairly stressed at the crux. A few downclimbs and eventually committed to what felt like grade 16 moves through the top. Placed a .3 above it your welcome yim, and then got scared again below the cave belay entrance. The mantle is quite easy but took serious committment due to a fall also being pretty certainly fatal from here. I thought about putting long runners on bolts near both these scary sections and extending for a less deathy whip but its just not the vibe of the route. I brought yim up, who brought out his previously supressed photo consultancy side and directed the selfie taking in the unfortunately lit cave to ensure we got the exact same fucking photo as every other poser whos been there. Yim barreled up the last 3 pitches in 1 rope. I thought all of it was good. After how good some of the fingerlocking felt i may never really feel anything again. What impresses me about the first ascent is not the lack of modern gear or crap shoes.. the footers are fine and most people solo it now too. The thing thats fucked for me is that these blokes went up there with literally no knowledge about the grade or seriousness. Just go and hope they can do it. What happens if you get to the cave and theres no pitch 3 fingercrack in the corner? Does someone organise for one of the lads to go up to the tree up top and chuck 50m static off so they can monkey up? Id love to read the original trip report they must have been all froth those guys. Yim walked down the tourist track with one tc pro and one sandal because of a blister. An interesting look for an interesting fella.

 
Ven 8 Juil 2022 - Bowling Green Bay
Cape Cleveland Boobook HideOut
15 Pleasure Crack Trad 25m Excellent
Beautiful morning to cap off the nqld trip. Felt lovely to get in the zone on these 40m slab pitches then bask in the amazing bay views at the belay stations. Rivalling bare rock for nicest approach, the creek was running so we got barefoot and shuffled along. Bootied a big brekky at the elliot springs bp which was enough for both of us to eat as lunch while we had a shallow skinny dip in the creek.

 
Sam 2 Juil 2022 - Mt Stuart
The Playground
10 Crutch Rot Trad 15m Classique
My first team solo with the big guy!.. After he racked and roped, then took his harness off 1m up. He threw the rope and harness on the ledge so i chucked my shoes on and followed on. Great movement and no hands photo ops. Abit less stress than trying to clip the second bolt on warlock. Luckily it turned into a very memorable route afterwards. Thumb press in the flake in particular felt cool. Glad we persisted with the day after some very anti-outdoor-climbing-looking weather at the carpark and a shakey ascent of cannonball.

 
Jeu 30 Juin 2022 - Mt Stuart
The Great Wall
18 Deliverance Trad mixte 100m, 1 Classique
Stuey! This felt like the one to have done if we do only get 1 day here. A mixed bag of styles, 2 crux pitches very different challenges, a whack traverse, a huge and completely unnecessary runout of the entire final pitch by death-wish-yim. Best moment was when the route crossed our fixed rap rope on the second pitch and yim, again wildly runout, finally fiddled some gear in and accidentally clipped the fixed line in.

 
Mar 28 Juin 2022 - Cania Gorge
Four Seasons Point
21 The Scythian Trad 30m Super classique
Final day in cania. We decided it was time for the reaper of queensland. Even more similar than it looks from the ground. Yim attacked first. Shutdown by the overhung hands mantle. He had a much better crack than me though. After 1 measly go, it was double sling ladders through the crux (maybe the hexes would have been useful on this route after all) which was hard even with the 2 points of aid. The traverse was exquisite. All worth it for those exposed moves across to the final gear before a couple big face moves to the top out. Quick check revealed i had a few slings left so i aided that aswell. Yim danced this on second so i may have been abit ladder-happy this morning. Managed to jam another cam into the depths at the mantle, yim attempting to suck water from my camelpak and spit it on the cam apparently. 2 raps to ground, the second one being more horizontal than vertical and costing yim a bit of fingerskin. 1 pitch in 4 hours. At this pace well have 1/10th of cania done by 2050. As with tradical and bananaflower though, a cania classic, extremely unique and despite our free climbing shortfalls, a mega experience being on this absolute piece of stone. Ive realised by day 3 in choss gorge, we have become completely desensitized to rockshowers on belay. Its now a simple sideways nod of the head to avoid getting proper domed. One last thing.. Moogy how did you think that mantle was 21 mate.. far out.. thanks for the killer route though.

 
Lun 27 Juin 2022 - Cania Gorge
Lazy Ledges
20 Tradical Trad 20m Super classique
A 4th star wouldnt go astray. Absolute cracker steep committing jamming sequence down low and a sequence to the chains (chains meaning big crusty tree at cania) involving an incut crimp/pin scar/undercling/i dont know how it got there but it makes the whole thing possible. Rock over to just-low-angle enough slab and mantle out 3m right of the last hail mary .4 you placed cos youve again run out of 2s. Stunning way to end a day of roadblocks and faffery.

 
Dim 26 Juin 2022 - Cania Gorge
Four Seasons Point
21 Bitter Aftertaste Trad mixte 20m, 3 Classique
Thought id be writing to my dearest thecrag about a climb called motel california today; the coveted 3 pitch adventure climb of the area, but apart from an airy mantle (which i always seem to appreciate less than the masses), it wasnt hype at all. Instead, out of the 7 pitches done for yimmy boy and i today, this one takes the cake. Very thin move (for me, probably a jug for the preens) to get off the deck. I claimed the red point at the top after a semi-controlled semi-falling step off the crimp at the start and yim begged me tirelessly to reconsider and claim the onsight, so it was with the utmost embarrassment that i obliged. The excitement was not over after my lead either. Right before my very eyes, yim, while traversing to the anchor along the top on second, slipped, fell off the ledge and caught a tree with one outstretched hand to stop a 4m swing across the wall! A great start to the north qld trip.

 
Ven 24 Juin 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
18 Bay Play - avec , Georgia Forster Trad 10m Bon
A nice and efficient day out with georgia and the open-book man. A bunch of smaller, non-jamming pitches climbed. Yim managed an onsight of footloose without any feet coming loose, i gave him all the hard pitches of the day and gave him inadequate gear beta for sailor in the sun. Didnt look fun. Project for the season will be running continuously from infinity to the toilet block: tried it after leaving my keys at bad company, its friggin hard. Made it to electronic flag and had to walk.

 
Lun 20 Juin 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 21 The One That Got Away - avec Will West Trad 35m Classique
What a beaut! If anyone wanted to be a starfish when they grew up, my advice would be learn trad and do this climb. A lot of fingerlock/gaston/open palm hands with a footjam and a side smear, all the while with all 4 limbs outstretched to the 2 crack systems. While id love to go ahead and help myself to another 21 OS log, i think 'the one that got away' might be in reference to the 21 that somehow got away from being regraded to 20. Stoked to put it away clean though, and felt very confident with all the movement. A great day at frog for me and fair to say witnessing the dynamic between Tim and Yim (climbing partners for the day) was delightful.

 
Mer 15 Juin 2022 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
19 Inquisition Trad 27m Classique
Well the day started off with Gen bailing for work and then in an unprecidented move, unbailing and driving out to frog to join the fun and even the party numbers (big hype). Even more memorably, Yim accidentally eating weed cookies from an unknown cooker deposited in his fridge for a midnight snack and being baked while climbing! Didnt change the backseat sleeping routine, no surprises there. Despite inquisition not being my lead and drawing rack and ruin instead, this was the highlight of my climbing day. Brilliant high foot stemming and pulling in the odd looking groove in the first half and some fairly rudimentary offwidthing to unlock some rocking moves in the second. Minus the first 5m, all classic climbing that i shall be back to repeat. RnR finger crack start went much smoother than last year so nice to see improvement there but was a bit surprised about the difficulty of some moves entering and also exiting the corner and gear availability in the thin part above it. Might be my fault for taking less than 7 .4s up!! Pretty serious lead for 20 points at frog imo. Ended up bailing into flies just below the tree which was a little disappointing but good climbing all in all. Head game is still really out of sorts.

 
Dim 12 Juin 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 Satyricon Trad 35m Classique
Pretty stoked with this after crying over climbing above bolt at ninderry the day before. After mantling out top above the runout, i had 2 hours of feeling like the man until the dave mank finger crack slapped me back to quivering with gear at waist height. Great day at the buttress of fun

 
Sam 7 Mai 2022 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
19 Monty Python's Flying Circus - avec , Will West Trad 25m Bon
Ok focus on the climb jack. Focus on the climb.. So i drove to yims old house in west end to pick him up and told him i was out the front. He told me i wasnt. Shit. Had to get will from south bris cos hes a gronk and has big fridays, then made yim walk across the green bridge as a fully decked out trad christmas tree. We got to frog at a time that wouldnt indicate we were a party interested in climbing well. Picked literally the only climb being occupied. Will almost knocked off materialistic by a flying rap rope. I almost had an epic on wizards back after not taking any gear. Then yim thrust a .5 into the belly of mt french via the right hand crack on res corner. I then donated on wills behalf in the form of his alpine sling that i forgot to strip from the cam. The rain stopped so i decided to drag the boys up flying circus. Ok so now for the climb. Move near fixed rp had too thin feet. Fuck. Who cares. Aid. Rock over move crawl up slab. Shoulder bar up awkward corner to bucket from heaven then hand jam up to obliterated chain anchor. Clipped. Continued onto tree. Grigri wasnt enjoying quickly lowering the lads off climbs. Smelt like plastic. Doorstopper toasties, home.

 
Dim 1 Mai 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan
Caves Route Sector
4 Caves Route - avec Rachel Rollo Trad 520m Classique
Finally done caves route! Picked a pretty good day to roll up to tibro at midday. The start of caves was pretty soppy and honestly a little hows it going unroped, but the wet rock subsided quickly. Got lost on p2 and roped up for rachs debut trad lead. Luncheon in the big cave. A hobby guide cruised up past us and took us under his wing. Our trioship broke when he decided to stop for a bundy at the top of the chimney. We continued up, checked out the beautiful mine from the summit and then headed back to the GHM 'Tavern' - a rebranding has occured clearly. Jarred Liv and Justin joined us for a bev.

 
Lun 25 Avr 2022 - Girraween
Mt Norman
18 The Other Dimension Trad 65m Excellent
A long walk out to normo from bald creek.. even longer for yim who left his shoes at the sphinx the day before. He didnt find them, brissie rock climbing club poached them, so in a touching rekindling of old traditions bourn on our attempt on black light last year, i found myself lobbing my katanas off the tree belay for yim to climb the first pitch in. The line was easy enough to find despite the complete absence of info on thecrag (love it). Some grotty crack work that made me feel grateful for having been exposed to heinous cracks at araps. An uncomfortable belay ledge that i was constantly slipping off and had to haul on the tree every few minutes. Yim guided the last pitch and i followed barefoot as it looked straight forward enough.. turns out fontainbleu charles is a machine and barefoot climbing is fucked. I remember thinking thank fuck im on belay. Less thankful upon mantling the flake and seeing yim rain-baking up top, fully reclined. I may need to re-explain hip belaying. I could fully remember the scramble down from the summit from 17 years ago when i climbed it with my dad as an 8 yr old. Really nice day.

 
Lun 18 Avr 2022 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 Termination - avec Martin Weir Trad 18m Excellent
Ill forever remember this as the climb i sussed out on a fixed line in preparation for a top rope burn! Marty and i were nearing the end of a notably efficient introduction to frog weekend when we decided after injection logic to throw a tow line down termination because im well scared of having a crack above 2 bomber rps. I had alpined a strand onto the anchor and grigrid down to the ledge leaving marty to untie it and atc down. I knew immediately when i tugged on the rope at faki ledge.. beta spray alert, using a sling hex as a footstrap for ascending is quite worthwhile! Eventually got around to top roping the climb and i was right, i would certainly have brown and/or yellow pointed the rock over move with rope below me. Marty was happy with it but i think he still somehow did more face moves on faki.

 
Lun 11 Avr 2022 - Moonarie
Great Wall Area
16 Sorcerer's Apprentice - avec tanja (reluctantly) Trad 45m Dans la moyenne
So funny story about how we ended up here. I told tanja at 4pm after 7 pitches that i was interested in doing downwind of angels. A 45m 'stiff as' 19 on the great (sunburnt) wall. I deliriously put the first few bits of pro in, wobbled up the grade 16 start to where the line diverges from outside chance, and just couldnt resist thr gravitational pull of the easier arete of OC. Charged up that to where the gr 12 chimney on sorcerers branches off, and went left again.. around the corner, up shithouse gearless chasm and spat out at the anchors. I looked down while on belay at the 4 star 19 that i had outmuscled and outsmarted. A full colour sunset was the reward for my (lack of) effort.

 
Dim 10 Avr 2022 - Moonarie
Checkers Wall
15 Pagoda Variant - avec tanja Trad 100m Classique
Tanja got the money 3rd pitch which sure was the money! Nice airy traversing on good holds. I made sure the thrills didnt go all her way though by browning out on the 2nd pitch with a completely unnecessary mantle that didnt strike me as gr 13. Tanja took a stick up to fish out a nut from the pagoda flake the guys had told her was there, ended up getting 5! I tucked my shoulder into the flake to seek refuge from the sun. To top things off we encountered another wildlife wonder.. a lizard styling for us ontop of a can of rocks.

 
Sam 9 Avr 2022 - Moonarie
The Ramparts
18 Miles from Nowhere - avec tanja Trad 100m Super classique
Sensational! 1 cool pitch followed by 2 sensational ones. A stuck nut on the first pitch meant accepting the help of a rock out of tanjas chalk bag which she agreed to lower to me.. she didnt tie it to anything though it seems and dropped it down to the ledge below me, bringing her tally of dropped accessories of moonarie multis to 2! We got this sorted and i repayed the favour with an overcammed upsidedown 3 right below the p2 crux. Great to work hard on lead again, the crux felt nails to me and i baulked several times before letting out a great howl, raising my pitchfork and running chest out into the committing layback moves. Tanja had another chimney lead up top and i think she has found her calling. We had a fun scramble out and a treasure hunt to find the rap anchors was over quickly. There was also a petrified goat in the final chinmey, it wore the pained/shicked expression frim its last moments it life which was spooky. Unfortunately abit of trouble with the back has brought day 3 to an early close for some r&r (rest and recobeery).

 
Sam 9 Avr 2022 - Moonarie
Flying Buttress
15 Flying Buttress - avec tanja Trad 110m Classique
Jesus what an adventure! Non-stop problem solving from ground to summit. Tanja set the anchor above an inspiring looking crack that defo wasnt the climb, so considering we were miles from anyone, and in a hard place to bail, i did the smart thing and just charged it hoping i could link back later. In this case i was rewarded with beautiful ~gr18 climbing (moonarie grade 7) up a sick crack and a nice airy traverse back to the chimney. Not as nice for tanja on second, unfortunately sparse gear. Tanja stayed on track for p3 and yet again i got way off track on p4, this time ending up 2 climbs right, clipping bolts and doing far sportier moves than i anticipated on the bumbly tradtacular of moonarie. A very sketchy traverse back to the chimney provided some relief and a ledge to belay before the top out. The rope knocked off a large slice of kitkat rock luckily out the way of tanja. Definitely a hazard to consider more carefully. Not hundo pcent sure of the real way on this one but it was either a nails overhanging offwidth or a crumbly mantle. Tanja did the honours; the horizontal squeeze on to the ledge and final top out, bringing us to the top out almost 6 hours after beginning that morning. I felt like this climb taught me alot about climbing at the moon. One to remember. After rereading the description i still dont know where to go at p4 off-width, or whether its supposed to be apart of p3 or 4..

 
17 Vortex - avec tanja Trad 45m Excellent
Nervine, buckets of jism and this one for our opening day at the moon. 10hrs of driving the previous day and only 2 stops. Bed times are supremely early out here we learnt from davey and angus, because theres not alot else to do! More time for climbing though, and fk theres some of it alright. Vortex took nicest pitch of the day. A couple big moves on jams, very classy. The boys told us not to bother with p2 and once we saw it from the top we could see why.

 
Lun 4 Avr 2022 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
9 Conifer Crack Trad 80m Excellent
Great finish up the shark fin at the end. Beautiful purple orange horizon beset by the northern grampians for a view while climbing the fin. One of the most surreal climbing experiences ive had. Not bad climbing up to there either.

 
Dim 3 Avr 2022 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
6 Guiding Light Trad 60m Excellent
Feeling jittery in the pines after eating 4 of paolos crepes this morning and washing it down with 2 coffees. Everyone else was still at gramps.. SO - almost as naked as the day i was born (running shorts barefoot and shirtless), i ran. First just to the end of alfred whatever drive that takes you to the highway, and then in the words of forrest gump, i just keypt rurnnin'. In retrospect guiding light is a delightfully apt route name for my experience. I picked tyre burnt sections of bitumen and lane lines to preserve footskin, moving across for the occasional truck. A cop gave me the thumbs up travelling in the opposite direction. Lej. About 25 min of rurnnin brought me to mitre rock. I started for the cleft in the middle of the south face and ended up rambling up almost precisely the same thing as this route description. Passed an older couple. The lady was freaking out at the top of the first summit cos hubby linked the top 2 pitches and left her a pro-free downclimb, but geared the whole re-ascent. Atleast he was thinking about 1 of them She understandably wasnt stoked. Mitre lake was a sight to behold. I had already beheld it from slightly further away quite the number of times but still special. I ran all the way back to camp and got under the water tank. A lovely solo adventure and the first time in a little while i havent felt injured. Stoked with the way this arvo turned out.

 
Lun 28 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
18 Virginia - avec gretchy and tom Trad 25m Classique
Followed the lads out to the spasm chasm and slowed the show down with a telehealth medical appointment right when i was due to tie in. Further slowed the gang down with some slo-thrutch through the crux but i enjoyed every slo second of this climb.. super unique pitch and a great way of getting some gusto back. Tom did this on tr with a broken ankle and rewrote the book on kneebars. Watch out coolum.

 
Dim 27 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
9 Beau Geste Trad 140m Classique
Classic! Chimney work was slow going but the movement through the cave system at the top and the juggy bulge exit was terrific.

 
Dim 27 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
20 Wild Oats - avec matt Trad 70m Classique
Really good i reckon totally underrated with 1 star. Tricky slab crux on the first pitch had a really cool solution. P2 was a corker and very glad to have got behind the wheel for this one. A very exposed run out traverse with gr 15 climbing after a funky corner chimney and an easy but cool layback flake to the ledge. After the girdle across to the anchor, we almost came unstuck with a hanging rap but lucky rope stretch saved the day. Thanks gretchy for the rack!

 
Sam 26 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
10 Eskimo Nell Trad 130m Super classique
A flake assisted slab into a chimney into a jug haul into another tighter chimney into slabbing into a body crack that requires slam dunking water bladder and hat onto the finishing ledge at the top to do the final move. Amazing from start to finish.. and after the finish, a girraween-esque walk off the back. Might command a repeat

 
Mer 23 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
12 Hurricane Lamp Cracks Trad 120m Classique
Beatiful climbing. Quite diverse and not as grovelly as it looks, down via spiral staircase.

 
Mar 22 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
19 Lemmington - avec Genevieve Forshaw Trad 30m Classique
Really flowey climbing down low.. the flow gets interrupted somewhat by a time consuming search for gear but once sorted, a cool move up to the finishing jugs. Rate! Got rained out then saw an echidna. Gen reckons 3 stars are for the echidna. Im happy to assign a couple to the climbing.

 
Sam 19 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
18 Voodoo - avec Rachael Brock Trad 65m Excellent
Terrific adventure. You really cant see what your climbing it for at the ground so rachael and i were very close at 1pm to going to a gully and climbing in shade, but eventually the dogleg groove won me over. Pretty hard at the start (it was hot as fook), took a fall on a small halfnut then stepped on the piton through the crux, but it got a lot less despo towards the top. Rachael was impressed that i found the bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.. so was i! Ramble to the roof and then the most improbable grade 16 pitch in the universe. 6m of ceiling crack. Actually 16 too! Crazy. I could see rachael doing the crux from my belay through the crack.

 
Ven 18 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
19 Tannin - avec Kyle Addy, Genevieve Forshaw Trad 35m Super classique
"Weoowww this is soo good" kyle sounded like a toddler in the ball pit from the roof jug. We went 2 different ways at the top and after raving about my one, kyle decided hed second it barefoot to experience both. A terrific line with sinker wires everywhere you look. A bit of a confidence booster for me after judgement day. Felt very in control the whole way. We rapped back down horn piece and went up to paladin. Passed an hour sitting around talking about potato guns for flies, marvelling at australia shaped flakes and enjoying the views.

 
Jeu 17 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
19 Judgement Day - avec Genevieve Forshaw, Kyle Addy Trad mixte 67m, 1 Classique
As wild a climb as it looks in the guidebook. Started the day off with a bit of storm repair and pouring water out of climbing shoes, before heading up to Huey, an 18 finger crack that i faithfully clutched at kyles crux gear after 4 downclimbs. Stairway to hell provided some nice 'araps' moves, although im still understanding what an araps move is cos it feels like anything except what your expecting at this point. We waltzed down to the shady side of the pharoahs which turned out to be anything but! Sizzling on belay ledges was the flavour of the arvo, but id sizzle to a crisp for that second pitch: An experience as absorbing as it gets. Helped old mate out on his crux on the next route as he snaked under our traversing rope. Gen guided the pitch, very impressive. We all aided the final pitch crux.. fkn nails move. A plethora of excuses were offered but at that point no one could care less. Beers were beckoning.

 
Mer 16 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
16 Watchtower Crack - avec Kyle Addy, Genevieve Forshaw Trad mixte 95m, 3 Classique
I had eyed this one up on thecrag in my pre-trip research so i was quietly beaming the gang decided on this one today. It was pretty spec! Got to lead the first 3 pitches. After wild weather day 1 i brought a jacket which was almost my undoing on p3. It was getting in my face when the wind blew through the mr chicken crack so i took it from around my neck and torniqueyed it around my thigh. Every right foot movement afterwards was tenuous with the jacket sliding ever further. The gang made the top with enough time to spare for an assault on a very humbly graded 15 called Siamese Crack that took all of me. After enjoying the views of Mitre Lake, we retreated to the Pines.

 
Mar 15 Mars 2022 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
13 Muldoon - avec Genevieve Forshaw, Kyle Addy Trad 42m Classique
An epic haul for day 1! D minor, necro, agamemnon then muldoon. The rain descended as we got a pitch up on muldoon. Kyle yelled out "i cant see the wind turbines"; our binary parameter for whether we were fucked or not. We sorted out a fairly dicey no-coms belay situation where we needed more rope to get Gen and I both up the second pitch and got down to find a good samaritin had put my weather protector back on my tent properly! Legendary. Tip to anyone cold and rainbeaten at p1 anchor on muldoon, you can actually shove half your torso in the notch in the wall on the right of the ledge.. it will look ridiculous but youll be warmer. All the climbs we did were really fun and im starting to see what the araps hype is all about.

 
Mar 8 Mars 2022 - Indooroopilly Bridge
14 Ummaguma's Layback - avec censored for visa reasons Trad 6m Excellent
We waited for the hottest day in yonks so the cement really absorbed every ray to have a go at the interesting (read: crumbly as a kitkat) looking climbing the indro bridge has to offer. I run past these climbs every few days so funny to get the gear out and actually have a go after many unfulfilled plans to do it in past years. As is often the case, the other side of the equation today was a particular trad dad of the telstud variety, although for reasons relating to his visa, ive been asked not to unmask the criminal. We started up Ummaguma when dad rode his bike past and stopped to get a shot of ---redacted--- halfway up the layback. Gear was plentiful. We had a stab at parsley as well (the famous line of the crag with 1 whole review left for it). Some secret fingerlock/chickenhead technique proved extremely unique, reinforcing the benefits buildering has to offer. Pouring with sweat and mud from the under-rail top outs, we hiked 15m back to the car and drove off after the police were a disappointing no-show.. wtf?

 
Ven 18 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
20 Ben Trovato Trad mixte 150m, 3 Classique
Trad, sport, vert, traverse, bolts, carrots protected with wire ends and potplant-sized-tree slinging from one of us and of course the ben trovado exposure. This adventure had it all for our last day in the mountains. Jumped on guillotine first where i was less than impressed with the first few crimps, yim took over and got the draws up and then out of nowhere i sent it clean! No aid at all. We got a second win with yim onsighting his first gear 20 for ben p1. He celebrated early and almost stuffed it right at the top. I unsighted it by very deliberately yarding on his gear on second. The traverse was unbelieveable. Heaps of fun and a chance for the lads to let down the hair before the assault on exiles final pitch. Some very funky gear was placed, and yim explored past the anchors into the choss chimney to see what we would be avoiding. The exile finish was potentially even better than guillotine. Classic vert face climbing long moves on very good crimpers with a cutloose roof straddle on jugs up high. A beautiful final pitch for the trip. Happy with the way things had turned out, the boys ate dodgy leura fish n chips, headed to a waterfall where yim spent most of his time taking a dump, regathered with will and johnny (who had pulled trigger on the rope solo at disco party) and max at echo point for a bev then headed to the bbq at tom and jays. To those that follow me on thecrag, rest easy knowing that your feed will be a less turbulent place for a little while.

 
Mer 16 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag
15 Fuddy Duddy - avec Johnny Sullivan, Will West Trad 95m Excellent
Todays installment was a day out at narrowneck to climb the bumblers. Cave climb first on the menu. Will forgot to leave the big gear for j and y so i had to lower him halfway down the climb to re-place it all. Had a undies shower in the trickling waterfall; i wish theyd turn the pressure up on that thing. Some difficulties finding the start of fuddmania but ended up shooting for the carrot. Told will and yim the first pitch was shit and maybe they should go direct start. They ended up taking over 2 hours longer than us to complete the climb with some large solos. My hands were too sweaty to fist stack the offwidth on p2 but werent too sweaty to grasp a fistful of dyneema. Johnny and i hung out at the car for a bit before a girl named kiki drove past in her truck asking for camping advice on the area. She ended up doubling back despite my lack of help and gave us freezing beers and chatted to us until the boys came back. 2 other lads followed them out the top of the chimney and joined us for a bev for sunset. Kiki seemed interested in climbing and was encouraged by the vibe of post climb beers but yims 20m run out chimney recount quickly eroded her enthusiasm for it. She was also potentially not 100% convinced we were real climbers after 50% of us (yim and i) almost came off the boulder problem that was mounting wills car roof with racks on. Hardly a V6.

 
Lun 14 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
19 Telstar - avec , Will West, Johnny Sullivan Trad 80m Classique
Telstar! Apparently the ultimate battleground for epic crag reviews. Ill do my best. Fontaines took us to the better land through the dirt trail to ikara head. We had recruited johnny for our 4 man party the day before after hearing he had done his first trad lead at zig zag. 'A spicy chimney traverse dude, youll be fine'. After will reminded me this was the first of many routes he had linked me via messenger in the lead up to this trip, there was no stopping the stoke train. Our rough plan was yim leads team 1 through all pitches setting up slingage for optional aid incase anyone wigs out in the chimney. Johnny partnered with him for the day and will and i paired up. I took the opportunity to have a stab at caladan which was one of if not the best single pitch of climbing ive ever done! Tricky anchor placement for will on second tryna knock off the crux though. We rapped down and lunched on the ground while the other boys started up telstar. After a premature belay and subsequent relocation from yim, 3 of us were up in the 'alcove' the word that apparently confused yim. He fired off the chimney and set up the gear as wed discussed. Johnny punched on through on second. 'Are you still talking?' Johnny lashed mid-crux as yim muttered some probably useless shit from the belay above. Will and i sat in the shade and chatted all things things and laughed at johnnys almost timetable reliable spitting from the belay above until the fateful 'climbing' call from johnny signalling that wills time had come. After dipping his foot in the first aid sling and not liking it, will neglected aid and just sent the pitch free with more pure chimney technique than all of us face hold prancers put together. I paid for yims gear usage fee in the form of a chunk of knuckle skin trying to get a particularly sturdy wire out of the roof. Pitch 3 was quite tiring but went off without hitches.. climbs really well. We trooped up the final slab on hip belays with the boys all ready yelling at us to just solo. Apparently abit of an alpha tussle between johnny and yim after yim asked his 'slave' (johnny) to fill his water in the morning. This was more than resolved post climb with both gents refering to eachother as 'boss'. It was truly the better land at top out. Brilliant hazy post sunset with an almost full moon casting light on pierces. We trooped back to the car and rolled through blackheath in search of a pub and to our surprise, it was open (9:30pm monday). A round was bought and 1 particular patron was intregued greatly by my water bladder in the pub and what it contained. Luckily didnt attract the bartenders attention, would have looked abit iffy. But yeah nah yeah there ya have it, the boys did telstar. One for the books.

 
Dim 13 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall
19 Taipan Trad 50m Super classique
What a climb!! Couldnt believe the movement up top that the description says is 'unpleasant'. Insane position. Will yim and i had rolled up to a sunny zig zag after overshooting the walk in and almost ending up in lithgow. Jumped on black bart and shakes and flakes. SF was fantastic through the middle section after which it is named but yim and i wasted no time aiding the diabolocal move at 7m. We are still nonethewiser as to how that gets done. Relatively happy with our little sport foray, johnny came and scooped will up for his first gear lead, leaving yim and i to multi it up! Despite the arvo sun gleaming on the orange face, Taipan had a certain allure, especially the top. I trucked up the chimney and brought yim up. He took little convincing to jump on his 1st gear 19 up the daunting p2 face climb. After some careful gear substitution, he pounced through the crimps and up to the ledge, an impressive onsight with gear safe as houses. I snapped a photo of him midcrux with my hand never leaving the rope, using the forehead phone stabilisation technique. Im not sure how impressed he was. Thankfully i didnt need to work too hard with the nut tool getting the wires out and got to enjoy what was a delightful pitch! I got to lead the romp through the roof. The secret hand jam above the boulder then cringe out left is mindblowing. Chimneyd the final move out just as the sun dipped below the hills. Will and johnny came past at the perfect time to grab our shoes so we bashed out the top. Steves leftover barra was cooked for dinner! Boys on tour day 1 ended up pretty good.

 
Jeu 10 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area
9 Frolic - avec chris, dan yim tom wen Trad 13m Dans la moyenne
Disappointingly unneccesary off-widthing. Ended up trying to get my knee stuck just to feel something. Got the number 5 stuck and had to bash it upside down to eventually weasel it out and then exact same with the 6. Almost fell off a few times. Traversed to face anchor and rope drag was grose so just climbed out and dropped rope. That meant not 1 but 2 other people had to pretend to have a good time on it. Wouldnt mind seeing a cement mixer parked at the top of this. Went to catch dan yim tom and wen at exhibition wall and tried to double or nothing on a second off-width this time a gr 18. Left the no 5 with chris and decided 4 and 6 would average out to make good pro. Law of averages didnt hold, ended up with a 4 swimming around under me while sliding around 5m off the deck trying to desperately jam a 6 above me. Ended up having to downclimb off it, replace the 4 then whip on it to get off the climb. Tom built dan an anchor so he could safely catch the whip without both of us flying off the ledge. At least tom got some practice with his placements. Atomic punk was alright also. Dan jumped on and hit me with a spontaneous victory whip while i was facing 140 degrees from the wall with my hand half on the break rope, Rag-dolled.

 
Dim 6 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
19 Colosseum Corner Trad 78m Super classique
Among the wildest of wet weather days spent at sublime point. The point being to seek refuge in binary caves and climb hard sport. We missed the point. Yim started the day jumping on a sopping wet trad multi with Zi literally 3m from the dry rock in the cave. I delighted in aiding martys roof 25 swinging in the rain with double slings off bolts aswell as a horn sling. Some very confused sport climbers watched on. I took a wander to ben trovado wall to have a look at a few of the climbs we had scoped from the coffee shop that morning and to my surprise, the wall appeared almost completely dry, including the corner and a couple meters of the perpendicular wall. Realising this meant bentrovato and colloseum mightnt be a completely obscene idea, i raced back down the trail to the cave and caught yim just as he was tying into a cave climb and delivered an excited barrage of words about the wall being dry. Yim took approx 0.03 seconds to convince, throwing his already tied figure 8 in the dirt and running to grab zis cams, his would-be belayer left astonished. I snagged martys rope and 5 draws and we hurried back to the corner. I got 2 pieces up the first pitch when yim realised he left his tc pros in the cave. I tethered a cam while he lapped back with the shoes. The first pitch was magnificent. Classy as hell stemming with a committing seam section where both of us had to resort to grabbing the piton. Yim also stood on it, declaring he may aswell cos he already touched it. Yim found a double knee bar at the end of the pitch and posed for a cut loose photo with his red fingernail gloss still in perfect condition from jungle juice. Yim lead the second pitch, writing it off as easy before placing a single piece and pondering aloud 'why does the climb just eat my gear'. I was having the exact opposite thoughts on the 3rd pitch after stupidly dispatching the 2 biggest cams in the first 5m and having to climb most of the pitch far less protected than id have preferred to be. The condition of the piton did nothing to neutralize my position. Reaching through the dense bush at the top of the 3rd pitch, i slung it and jumped on belay, directly below a couple carrots i forgot i had bolt plates for and belayed yim while lying across the tree trunk. Yim lead the encore through soaking off-width territory and reportedly regretted his decision to volunteer for the lead, shouting out 'this is the most disgusting amazing climb ever!'. After what felt like a fairly epic arvo, we were happy to hangout in the climbers cave, get some touristy shots. Yim bit the nozzel clean off my water bladder. I taught him how to use it and not bite too hard. 'More like a nipple' he said upon understanding the technique. Our only remaining problem was yims bag lying at the base of the corner cos he ditched it mid pitch 1. Sucks to be him. He raced down the track to grab it while chris came to save our bacon for the second time this week. A larger day than originally planned! But a great one. An amazing feeling to get away with such an incredible climb that feels like it should have been off limits in the weather and feeling appreciative to have such a stoke-machine climbing buddy in yim to participate in my ridiculous ideas.

 
Sam 5 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane
19 Bairds Effort - avec chris elo ciaran Trad 37m Excellent
Chris was rearing to go the morning after jungle juice and i was keen to escape being home and hungover so we grabbed elo and ciaran and went to find I31. An exciting wet approach with a creek jump and some sketchy wet gully descending. Eventually our canyoning efforts deposited us right in front of the line and it was pretty epic. Chris put the gear up and led smoothly. We all had a run up it, ciaran stubbornly refusing to use the crack and then running off to deliver a tutorial online from the middle of the bush! With a new batch of rain gently setting in, i thought it would be a sound call to start up bairds effort cos the first 7% of the climb was undercover. A very aggressive start getting off the deck into the levitating sealed corner went as a rock over on rattly fingers followed by a nice gr 13 swing around the roof. Some desperate looking finger crackage above turned out to be very reasonable with the right feet and wire placements. The carroted runout slab to the top felt alot more committing than the approximate grade 8 climbing in pouring rain. A spooky alpine touch. Nice wet weather adventuring!

 
Ven 4 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
17 Psychopath - avec Connor Dean Trad 28m Classique
Meant to set this up as a top rope for connor and then didnt have slings at the top to extend the anchor and had to pull it down. Felt obligatory to contribute to the inefficiency of the day mainly caused by the teasing bursts of light rain and marty convincing connor to start up an unstarred sport multi. Highlight of the session was yim leaving tags on all his new wires he was placing in the spartan and telling him that he should atleast also curl up the receipt in the crack so any would-be bootier could return it for cash if they freed it. Left my no. 6 hanging on the curtain at the blackheath house as deco where it was alleviated from its responsibility of keeping the boys safe on sparto. EAD lads enjoy the runout! Atleast yim enjoyed the 'new moves' that he was rattling on about.

 
Jeu 3 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
18 Apron Strings - avec , Steven vdb Trad 32m Classique
With only caves on the menu after consistent rain yesterday, yim and i scoped the traddiest thing we could find that is also in a cave.. we happened across this. Didnt really rack up appropriately with only 5 cams, the wires sunk though and i sure picked the right day to debut 4 new alpine draws. 7m runout to the anchors was a bit of a pant filler but the feet hold super well in the undercling. If it wasnt adventurous enough climbing, the addition of the grassy ledge start, the occasional 'dynamic hold' and the spiderweb mozzies left it beyond doubt. An absolute classic single pitch adventure in a lovely setting, confirmed by steve and yim. Nice to have the gang for company only 20m away at chasing amy aswell!

 

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