Ascents by Anton Korsun having Distinct route

Second shot. Although I’m a little flat about the style of ascent (not being a true redpoint), I’m pretty content to leave it at that.

Reason being, while the roof is long, you only need to place 2 pieces in it to make it “safe” from a groundfall (ignoring the first one placed from a hands free rest). Given how hard it is to clean, spending a whole day just to place 2 cams seems a bit contrived. But full respect to those who do!

Super fun torquey trickery. Will try to come back for this one, as I almost got it on top rope after.

Lots of very dry-specific moves that I'm totally unfamiliar with, but enjoyable in a very intense way. Bolt to bolt for the most part but did all the moves overlapping.

Used 3 consecutive figure-4's through the lower crux (off a stein no less, look mom I'm drytooling!) which must've looked ridiculous in G2's but hey my feet were toasty...

Siiik

Having taken full value of the generous dry spell we've had since November, I've spent the last few months canyoning, scary new-routing, refining the perfect spaghetti carbonara (no cream!!!) and generally using every excuse to avoid trying hard.

Now that I'm adequately stuffed with pasta, it's probably time to climb some hard things again.

Was told I can't not do the top pitch - so we did the top pitch (simul straight after West Face).

Tips the 1000 meter day towards the 1100m mark, especially with HC top pitch thrown in.

Having somewhat de-bonked after Hotel California (by consuming the remainder of my day's food at once), this felt a bit less desperate but more sustained.

A more striking line than BBB, but a little broken up.

1h 24 mins, then run run Rudolph'ed it back to the car.

Ran up Cows pretty smooth, until I broke a sizeable hold starting the Hotel traverse (and probably in ledge-fall territory). Frenching saved the day, mes amies!

The only route we tagged gear on, as Will could stretch the rack a lot further on his leads than I could on mine.

Bonked hard on the gr20 pitch after, just went 100% to 0% over like 4 bolts.

1h 38 mins including the top pitch.

The simplest route of the day. 44 mins base to top. First few pitches had a stuck rope and comms issues, otherwise sub-40 would've been within reach.

Thanks to the other parties for letting us sneak by, hope you had a great day!

Long time scheming finally comes together!

Did this, plus the top Mirrorball pitch, Bunny Bucket, Randy Rabbit and Hotel California (via Cows) for a 1100m day in 7 hours car to car...

...and 31 seconds, but I could've parked 20m closer near the toilets, so it's safe to call it 7 hours flat 🙂

Insane to see Will free the lot, as my frenching speed was often still slower than his freeing.

Times were as follows:

West Face (plus Mirrorball top pitch): 49 mins

BBB: 44 mins

Hotel Cal: 1h 38 mins (the bonk begins lol)

RRR: 1h 24 mins (neither having done the headwall before)

Awesome day out

Really cool sequence actually - worthwhile just for that

Went first shot but I had a dog lap last year.

I’m sure it’s rad when dry, but this is only a “wet weather crag” if you enjoy being rained on by the holds themselves…

Did the moves between getting waterboarded.

Pretty stoked with this one. It started as a recon lap, because I'm paying rent and the weather is good, so why not...

I've never touched the crux pitch before (either jumared or just took photos), so it was cool to send it 2nd shot without too much trouble. Had the first few pieces in, as I was expecting a dogging lap! Should've stripped it, but that's a reason to come back I guess.

It's relatively dry now (crux jams still muddy and gross), so get on it before La Niña 3.0!

ahh

Look at that, a route with no high right feet! Means that I can still climb something!

Cripple rehab. Came off the very first move because right knee is still spaghetti in certain positions. Clean to the top.

FFA. A consistently high caliber of climbing that gets pumpier as the gear gets more spaced (although all within reason). Thanks to Brandon, Zi and Chris for the looong aid belays required to clean this last summer!

Gradewise, I found it harder than Vascularity, Disbelief and Supercrack, but given that I generally find jamB cracks easier than their hold-bearing counterparts, I think soft 24 is fair. Especially on a redpoint/onsight.

Only really worked the first 5 bolts - all the moves went there and the final roof is easy too. Crux looked hard, didn't really try it. A windy, shivering day, but not as cold as when it was bolted!

70m rope lowers from 2nd-last bolt, but there's still a 5 meter exit ramp after that.

Thing with LRS is you have to climb stuff twice - which turned out to be a pleasure on this awesome little slab!

Pinkpoint FFA. Has some of the coolest moves I've done in a crack, and wouldn't feel out of place at a modern bouldering gym. In other words, as Jacques aptly put it: it's cocky.

Had 25 in mind for a while, but if you have good beta and can jam upside down forever it's just not that hard - get on it!

A decent onsight attempt, reading everything right until the cruxy arete sequence. Getting that draw on takes some effort - punted shortly after.

Repeat but still not a giveaway

Basically slept my way up this!

Lost count of the no-handers but there are 10 at least - some with enough room for a few people to cozy up.

Did all moves until the last 2 bolts where we realized I was running dangerously close to being late for work, so pulled on draws from there.

One of the steep-flake bolts looks how bolts should not look lol

Sat on the diving board for so long that I was late for work. Worth it.

Clean repeat, gear was in. This time kept going.

One hype checking lap to the roof. Hype... high, keen to come back!

2nd shot. A classy gem that should definitely see more traffic!

Now, to say anything of the horrific sandbag or not... ah well yea, it's probably only a 10 if you don't fall off 🤷‍♂️

2nd shot

Send train with Pat. Deadpoint vs crossover at the top? Both work.

Up and downclimb

The flipped shackle at the anchor is a meme. Safe but not for very long.