Ascents by Anton Korsun having Distinct route

Supertrad! We split it up in a funky way, but it all works out (including rapping on a 60m if you're clever and careful)

P0: soloed up corner ramp to tree. Easily linked P1 + P2 from there with no drag or drama.

Went up with 6 cams and placed half of that before running it out to the lip.

Then had a funny moment when I forgot how to mantle (now decently runout) and sat sideways, awkwardly toehooking the nose for probably a good 5 mins, too pumped to stand up or clip the anchor, which was now 3 inches from my face. Like riding a horse but sideways. And 40 meters in the air. Fun.

Another lap straight after the pink placing all the traddy stuff - not that 4 cams is much to place...

While I've only sampled a wee fraction of Araps, this takes the cake of the best crack I've been on anywhere! The wild sideways gymnastics just left me sad it wasn't longer.

Six Steps to a Successful Send

(a.k.a. A battle between Murphy's law and myself)

1. Crack gloves work best when you wear them.

   This is why we downclimb at the Ledge right?

2. Kneebars are kool.

   Realising at the glory jug that my left shoe was untied and falling off, I downclimbed (now to the kneebar) for some hands-free nodeology. I never got my knot badge in Scouts, but I'll take this as redemption...

3. When in doubt, run it out!

   The memory of yesterday's misadventure put me so in the zone over the last rooflet that I missed the key 0.75 slot. Nothing gets the guns blazing more than the beautiful and terrifying rope swinging freely, with your last piece too small too see.

4. The secret ming saves everything.

   Having addressed the previous point with a think-twice blue totem, I recalled Will's recount here; found the nonexistent crimp, minged, and all was good!

5. You get bonus points...

   ...if your belayer thinks you're topping out! The best victory whip is the one you don't expect.

Yea there's only five steps... but assonance, y'know?

With uni late the night before, and work that arvo, we set out for a speedy smash 'n grab. Rapped in. Sent. Walked out via lower track. Didn't get fired.

If I say nothing of getting Pat's ropes hopelessly stuck, the day was almost perfect! Lovely views of climbers enjoying Telstar too 😉

Arguably better protected than the corresponding section of the Iliad (if you can place any of it on lead).

I found a different sequence for the top than shown in photos, and surprised myself with a few unlikely links. Still quite desperate and scary.

Seconding Zac on P2. Gave it a little scrub on the way down but it wasn't as dirty as expected.