Ascents as unknown by Jack Seawright

'Stoners highway is the best 5.10 in the valley' say all the 5.13 climbers in the valley. Maybe its the only one that makes them feel something. I could believe that. I had mixed feelings originally when gen wanted to take the 5.7 bail out of the reputation opening pitch, but it turned out to be the right move because i had a right coniption on the 2nd. Gr 20 slab sequence 3m above a .2 stuffed in a pin scar 4m above the next piece. I was 10/10 scared for 20 minutes of up and downing the sequence. I tried to recall vague images of the product disclosure on my travel insurance but i couldnt even read the crimps right before my eyes. Finally pulled it, trapsed up the ramp to the chains swearing and brushing sweat from everywhere. From there it didnt let up too much either. Gen had a 5.10 crux 5m above the chains with no gear. I extended by petzl adjust and prepared for a dive to the side. Impressively (impressively?) bold for a classic.

Gen and I woke up with the intention of doing snake hike and/or dike with the spanish crew but forgot to exchange contacts or formulate a plan the previous day and consequently left ourselves little time for the 32 hour approach and a 84 hour descent. We decided chossohead arete would be a good little replacement mission. Little did we know.. that the climb.. actually doesnt exist! We located the chosshead and began ascending the chwitchbacks to the chockface where we dropped gear and went about locating the start. The next 2 hours was a veritable highlight reel of dangerous gully chraverses and checking the chopo from the book. Gen roped up at one point, put one cam in the wall and magically turned a number 2 crack into a number 4 crack. I decided eventually that we were both pushing our 9 lives and that we should bail down the scree. Gen was incredibly patient throughout this shit show and i was also incredi.. no i wasnt. An uncompromisingly shite day in the hills.

Climbed this route after 'climbing' generator crack, the token 'im gonna go submit myself for thrashing by a wide crack on top rope' in the valley. New diversions however was an absorbing lead at the grade and an outrageous traverse across the face to a watermelon sized chicken head, no pro, i guess im slinging it. Then mantle said watermelon without kicking your only pro off and tip toe across to a piton. Gen, my climbing partner for the day boldly jumped on the pointy end afterwards and whipped off the chicken head pro! Glad to not have the same thing happen.