Ascents by Jack Seawright having Distinct route

2 arvos of rock climbing at smith rock. First time on conglomerate rock. First time trying to spell conglomerate. Definitely a tough place to try onsighting stuff but if you lower your grade expectations it feels like a great challenge trying to suss the pockets and millions of sequence combinations while the pump builds. This route was by far the best one i tried, a number of dihedral switches and long, balancy lateral movements that never felt contrived. Also almost came off it several times so felt good to clip the chains. Anything harder than 11a unfortunately felt like abuse to my fingers or too shouldery. Some very nice team sunset dinners in the carpark with the euros (when they werent on spanish time eating at 11pm)

Decided on porters today after 7 decision changes while full kitted in harness and shadow rack in altitude cafe, annoying dan while he tried to work. King, nylon, powerbra and vice. 4 rippa climbs. Cant sing the praises of this crag enough, i love the technical vert stuff it provides and was particularly impressed with the crux section of so said the king. The committing smearing on traverse is beautiful and quite tough to figure out how to get established above the scoop. Climbs are all rain protected, no such guarantee for the belayer. Hardest crux of the day was chimneying into sandras passenger seat through the drivers door.

"We came here to do this multi" lie parties that came here to do subliminal and bailed. Marty and I birthed the idea at dinner the night before, scrounging together 11 additional draws at 9:30 and then remembering we hadnt organised transport to the crag at 10:30. Marty slammed some brekky as an afterthought and then luckily we were handed elos car keys. This meant our original plan of getting the train and hitchhiking to sublime point was made redundant. We rocketted off to the crag right in time for peak sun on the subliminal face and got a rope stuck on the first pitch. Will and chris had just finished sweet dreams and came to the rescue. 2nd rap i didnt kick off the ledge and ended up suspended in dead air, resulting in a 10 minute swinging session to reattach to the wall. We finally located the start of subliminal. Climbed up 3 bolts from the anchor instead of 1 and traversed across the wrong ledge. Certainly explains the 8m runouts. After about an hour of marty cooking on hang belay and me prancing around on ledges, horribly protected, we decided to seek refuge in the cave above on castaway for lunch to review our decision to climb subliminal. The review was conducted and completed in 1 second. Pretty nice and varied climbing all the way up, gr 20s were pretty hectic marty and i bith indulging in some beaner-pulling on lead and second. Marty is still in denial about the fact that he technically led a trad pitch with 2 tree slings on the gr 5 exit pitch. Really enjoyed the opportunity to do some horizontal climbing and refine the technique, particularly around resting efficiently. A great and very ridiculous day out!!

Did this and a few other routes here. All really nice. They climb like frog routes without as many cracks and bolts instead. High step ups and thin laybacking and stemming. Delish. And you wouldnt believe it.. but a crazy alpine route to access the crag and a wild block blowing solo to escape. Just another day.

Not what we came for but what we came for required 74 purple cams and 268 greens as per usual so we popped the zion cherry with a bolted arete. Some pretty unique movement and shuddering mantles which were fun. Tony wasnt psyched on the sandy holds, but with zions reputation id feel cheated if we got indian creek standard rock. Jumped on a very intreguing route called inner chi. Placing .2s in sandy flares then blasting face moves to slopers 2m to the right might have been a little too zion. Encountered a 1m long rattlesnake (a hissa) next to the bags. Tony got some photos while it sat in a perfect coil, patiently waiting for him to get the perfect shot for wild country to steal for their website.

Entertaining to watch moby boulder this to the 7m high first bolt. Being belayer was advantageous here cos it meant delegating spotter duty to tom and scotia. I could just eat popcorn. The boulder at the start is wild and seems impossible upon ground inspection but i think 21 is fair, the crimps are quite positive. Once your actually on belay though, the route gets alot more 'adventurous' and not in the cool tassie kind of way. Good to catch the gang albeit briefly.

Fun little climb, felt much stronger on the last move than last time.

Will and i troped up sodden ground to revisit the slidome for our annual trip out. Onsighted slider after a bunch of falls on the boulder at the start and even a few draw grabs on the send too. Had one good go on squelcher and 2nd burn was sandbagged 4 grades by my ludacrously pumped forearms. No top. Went down and took photos of nick cleaning slider and throwing draws off in rage. Hes an angry fella init. We gave him our distance and did the overseer. More jams in the first half than half the routes at frog. Then got hit with a rude bulge where i realised my arms were in such a state i couldnt even hold dog bones. All that was left to do was stare through the bolt and contemplate another cliff jump. Some nice delicate finishing moves makes this a very worthy line of the upper slider collection

Pretty cool climb! Had to grab a draw.. just cant stop myself at this point its a real problem. Liked the balancy stuff up the slab and the big moves on the buldge. Nice spot at the start to put your gear in the cave.