I was lured in originally by a dude at a tibro rap station who frothed this line, then upon reading Iain Hunter s crag log about not having to pull that hard, i knew id have to see what the hoof is hissin up here. 3 seshies later, accompanied each time by johnny 'cavemaster' sullivan, who eventually sent the approach hike in evolves, i came away with a very unlikely result.
1st burn 3rd session, i went for a lash, threw the full laundry load at it and got tossed at the crux. Johnny went up there and found a new way to traverse the crux, claiming yet again hed broken the beta. Naturally skeptical, i was on the fuckedge of not going for a second shot but johnny insisted i at least suss his magic genius-guy beta and dipstick clipped first before i could packup. I somehow made it back to the highpoint and figured with nothing to loose, id put all my biccies in the bucket of the guy that holds the slowest known time (skt) for descending caves route. I clipped and found myself above the crux. Terrified id fuck the dog on the final stem corner, i bridged as long as my calves held out and landed the most satisfying of alpine knees in the bushy ledge.
Id recommend this route to anyone that can climb 22 (you read correctly). Lights out movement thats never too burly the whole way up, well protected, and easy to aid.. because its literally an aid route. Very beta intensive, and a great opportunity to learn about the dark arts of stemming in a state that doesnt offer much of it apart from 27Rs at frog. Im still not real into projecting but to echo Angie's comments in a previous log, this one is worth it, even for the most purest of naked barefoot onsighters.
One day i will send this line. Dont hold your breath though.. it might take a couple decades. Such an iconic climb and definitely does feel like a frog hard wall route. My toes are mushed and my fingers feel like the dodgy debt collectors got hold of them but greatly enjoyed mucking around on it. Traverse into and turning the roof are absolutely wild. Thankyou for having me mr olos and excuse my punter grigri + prussik rope solo setup. It will be refined next time
- with
Johnny Sullivan
1st burn 3rd session, i went for a lash, threw the full laundry load at it and got tossed at the crux. Johnny went up there and found a new way to traverse the crux, claiming yet again hed broken the beta. Naturally skeptical, i was on the fuckedge of not going for a second shot but johnny insisted i at least suss his magic genius-guy beta and dipstick clipped first before i could packup. I somehow made it back to the highpoint and figured with nothing to loose, id put all my biccies in the bucket of the guy that holds the slowest known time (skt) for descending caves route. I clipped and found myself above the crux. Terrified id fuck the dog on the final stem corner, i bridged as long as my calves held out and landed the most satisfying of alpine knees in the bushy ledge.
Id recommend this route to anyone that can climb 22 (you read correctly). Lights out movement thats never too burly the whole way up, well protected, and easy to aid.. because its literally an aid route. Very beta intensive, and a great opportunity to learn about the dark arts of stemming in a state that doesnt offer much of it apart from 27Rs at frog. Im still not real into projecting but to echo Angie's comments in a previous log, this one is worth it, even for the most purest of naked barefoot onsighters.