Ascents by Jack Seawright having Distinct route

Feels about 19 and ill be honest like cal and the rest of the seq community and downgra... nah fuck it ill take it hahahaha yeah the boys

100th route at frog! Crux must be about gr25 for shorties, but a nice committing highstep one-mover if your 6ft tall. Pretty happy with the decision to get up at 430 for this one. Jimbos following ascent of epic journey - 'aid journey' as he put it - was an absolute spooge exhibition: young families, fairy floss and seasonal flu; the works.

Well.. i was preparing some depricating dialogue for my next frog aid-venture on a climb too hard for me. Blindsided myself completely with this result. All over in ~20 minutes of climbing. Infamous move off the ledge is the crux for me but its protectable with the good ol' red halfy, starting to really scratch that thing up. In general, i dont like to log onsights as i feel like it should be more about the experiFIRST 21 ONSIGHT YEWWWWW!!

A day of victories and be-reals. In the frigid morning breeze, kobi procrastinated and almost convinced us that he actually couldnt place a retrieveable cam, then touched the wall and turned into a beast, shooting up eternity for his first 18 trad onsight. Inspired, georgia fought an empty harness 10m below the chains with singing and careful pseudo-soloing to set the line up for sydney on joseph. With yim guiding maddie up sparto, i dragged the gang to the kraken and stupidly lowered the gear off for the top rope laps but the overhang made this futile. We did however get a tr groundfall for georgia (butt was apparently due protection from any further injury), as well as what looked like a silk performance trying to use the top rope to get back on the wall post-fall. Tilly was getting thrown around on the belay ledge like a ragdoll. Eventually kobi belted the crux in full layaway style and we finished the day putting everyone else up the spartan. Kobi laughed at me for protecting p1 with 2 pieces then did the same himself, but i called him out so he quickly snuck a 3rd garbage piece in before the anchor. Everyone freaked it abit on p2 and most importantly, georgia was able to bank her bereal photo for the chimney top out. Social media has been graced! Fantastic to see some people making real gains in their trad game in ewbanks backyard this morning.

awwwww ill give it an OS log.. cant help myself. Thought id wuss out of this today like all the other days ive wussed out of it. Really smooth and flowey climbing (the roof wasnt as smooth and flowey but still pretty chill really). hardest part for me was committing to the smooth footers in the base of the cave. Caught my bodyweight on a handjam at one point and punched the hand crack above on no gear cos theres not enough no.2s on the planet to stitch this one up. Its a handjammers climb for sure and probs is thought of by too many as a gruntathon. Some serious faff up top trying to find a place to rap down. Ended up swinging in from thor anchor to get some gear. No booty left though, bootyers look elsewhere (yim).

Malamute plans ditched post carpark rack up on a whim. Ethans 8th time up this route so he wanted to speed climb it. I found myself simul climbing some pretty legit 5.10 with some pretty legit loops out but nothing too insane. Every pitch is quite different. Almost put my back out on the layback flake pitch up top. Never had back problems before, id imagine this might be an issue for many people. Amazing way of getting up the chiffa for the first time. Post climb fist bump rightfully waited till after the traverse across the very exposed bellygoode ledge.

22 start is pretty thin alright. Skipped it after 2 fails. Varied climbing up corner then wild traverse into r&r. Bailed off r&r last time due to not enough gear so all the climbing was new to me. Johnny and yim had front row seats of the top half from theory ledge. Laughed at me for the rope drag, then asked me to pause in positions for photos while cruxing out. Yim even said "nah dont hold the jug, looks better if you hold the crimp". Eventually it was jespers turn. He had had enough by the traverse, fair enough. I lowered him off just as yim rolled up and tied straight in. Gettin warm at froggie but snuck this in before the fucked sun.

Rectory castleton link day! Last day climbing with antoine. 2 towers 1 day. Fine jade up the rectory and north face of castleton. Great day

Thin hand traverse jugs with toe hook and swing! Most aesthetic crack ive ever seen. Antoine took some good gear whips. We convinced a californian kid there for tr solo to lead it as his first 11 on gear and it snowed on him. Still went to the chains, legend. Found an unguidebooked finger crack around the back of the area that climbed super nicely. Lucky we didnt multi today as planned, its axe weather out there.

Rotte ascent - 3 man team in german - with moritz and elias. 'All good, I enjoy 3 person party. Means you can talk on belay and smoke ciggy together' - Moritz after I thanked the lads for babysitting my partnerless ass for the day.

Iron mandy, antifrom, oppenheimers and drop out. Good morning with kyle and a couple up-and-comers on the frog scene. I may have accidentally stood on a carrot on oppenheimers.. hmm.. not sure. Right in the cruxy section aswell. Dodgy form. Placing gear up top was the job of a librarian stacking the shelves. Move the rock to the side and stuff the gear in.

Aquilla and dangerman plus a cheeky tr over master blaster which is impossible to free i think. Had to ascend the tr on 2 prussiks to retrieve a cam which sucked abit but thankfully no lunches dropped off belay ledges today. Dangerman is still the sickest pitch at robins and potentially anywhere. Back to camp early for the ceremonial cooking of pedro and yulis mammoth zucchini.

Thanks Sam Pearson for the nomination. A classic sea to summit route of tibro! I chucked a cam in way out left on p1 that caused insane drag and got into abit of a crunch at the next bolt. Copped a phone call from the place i interviewed at on tuesday.. didnt get the job. Thank god. There was another round of interviews apparently. I was safer from employment than i thought. I saftied into the bolt while yim soloed to my cam and got it out so i could keep climbing. Definitely bolted to be a trad multi.. i was pretty keen to not fall on quite a few sections on all pitches. I may have avoided cruxing on the 3rd pitch but my traverse out left and subsequent regaining of the climb could have easily bombed yim with a factor 2. Felt quite risky, should have just punched the jugs. We enjoyed lunch above pitch 4, stoked after the improbable flake move at the top before walking around to find p6. We found it. Fuck. Where is the pro? Bouldered through it. Felt bold but the holds were amazing. It would be both scary and maybe funny? to see someone deck it off that start into the bushes. Topping this pitch, delighted at the lovely slabbing, i pulled rope till i could see the end with no scotchfingerman attached, followed by yim calling out for the rope. Fuck. Had to rap down, chuck him the rope and jug back up. Big marn was on his phone apparently.. Big bush bash reminiscent of colloseum corner, then down caves, showering some dirt on an angry local 'guide' double strand rapping at the same time and rope as his girlfriend 5m above. Nice. Cant give him too much shit, we found ourselves 'simuljugging' second day in a row from overshooting anchors. Still alive and most importantly, unemployed.

Thought id be writing to my dearest thecrag about a climb called motel california today; the coveted 3 pitch adventure climb of the area, but apart from an airy mantle (which i always seem to appreciate less than the masses), it wasnt hype at all. Instead, out of the 7 pitches done for yimmy boy and i today, this one takes the cake. Very thin move (for me, probably a jug for the preens) to get off the deck. I claimed the red point at the top after a semi-controlled semi-falling step off the crimp at the start and yim begged me tirelessly to reconsider and claim the onsight, so it was with the utmost embarrassment that i obliged. The excitement was not over after my lead either. Right before my very eyes, yim, while traversing to the anchor along the top on second, slipped, fell off the ledge and caught a tree with one outstretched hand to stop a 4m swing across the wall! A great start to the north qld trip.

Stunning climbing. Xav and i arriver first after the awkward access downbash and decided to prioritise clasics over easy access. We did this climb in 2p despite 28m of vert climbing cos i ran out of draws and the top pitch was all wires. Happy we did cos both pitches were completely different. First p got burly but techy through the bulge. 2nd p was flake covered and very stemmy. Accidentally flung a halfnut into the ocean.. never done that in queensland. Both amazing pitches and certainly 3 stars. Really enjoying the climbing at the brun.

Led through dans gear to get us all out in time for the ferry. Solid effort from dan back from a gear lead hiatus to top this bad boy. Complex moves on the ever changing diagonal snake. Very enjoyable climbing on a very distinct line in the zawn and as has become custom, a day of non-stop banter and insults all round. Get that on the big jobs as dan would say

Is it 20 or 21 the jury is out. I vote 21. Overhanging double finger press with blind footjams is kind of rude for 20. Rather backhanded way for me to welcome myles back to outdoor climbing. Myles: "ah crux is abit hard, lower me down cheers mate!" Me from my elay at the BST chains well off to the right: "ahhh how do i put this gently.. this one is a mandatory top out mate.. sorry." Speaking of rude at 20, trap for young players is surely at least 23 for fat fingered gentlemen goizus. Was not expecting that humbling right before lunch. Drank it off at the doogs with an ORIGINAL northern while myles out-hydrated me with a crisp. Probably the superior option all things considered.

Set off for this one at 4pm with gen on what was supposed to be my rest day. I was imagining sporty cracks but in reality yosemite multis are rarely just sporty cracks and this one turned out to be 90% v-groove thrash. There were some doubtful moments as the sunline travelled slowly up the hill behind us and light faded 2 pitches from the top but i got to have a lash at the top in bright enough conditions (i wish i could use that as an excuse for not sending). Heartbreaker flared finger jam slip 4m under the chains. Gens answers as to why i was rushing us so much lower down were revealed at the top: i forgot my headtorch. She lent me her phone torch and we rapped to the ground and ate a depressing 10pm dinner in camp 4.5 parking lot.

So you think you can climb frog 22s? I did until this morning. Never been beat down this hard by a crux. It didnt help that i had crack goggles on and tried to jam the awful groove until my 10th? go when i finally submitted to a gaston and it went. I trooped through to the top through the garbage terrain above the crux feeling humiliated. Didnt get proper sweary until our impulse aid session.. thought id had my day ruined before that! Heres to becoming a grumbly old man. Great to meet sam j in the flesh and plummet together and find out our disc personality types.

Finding the crux sequence in the overhang just took too long for my unconditioned arms. Really didnt put myself in the hunt for this one. My first take up came before searching for jugs on the right which was pretty poor. Luckily though, it is still a mega cool climb with great gear so i could still appreciate the quality movement. Early section was very swimmy and the crux jugs are as perfect as devils. A real epic. Reckon Stevo can get the lead send for sure.

Classy little climb! Finger lock and bridging moves in the groove to get off the deck are sick! A nice arete provides a worthy home for your wires, but remember your not at frog and sandstone doesnt hold the gear as solid (i ripped a micro out while sitting and leaning across to clip the face bolt pretty retarded). This is followed up with some beautiful long moves on great pockets on the headwall above.. A must do if your looking for an adventurey climb around the 20 grade with a nice variety of moves.

Potentially the best pitch ive done.. mega karate kicks out to the closed corner on the left on finger locks that could hold a bus full of school kids. Fuggennarrthhh. Sick!

Yeah legit what an adventure. Picture this (dont picture this if youre going for the onsight): you know the anchors above your head somewhere, youre in a little corner on a thin ledge with a roof over your head and a smooth slab to your right. Where do you go? You consider your only other direction. Left. A blank arete. Nothing there. Unless.. you look around the corner and see a flake with a finger crack in the back that goes o the top. A footer appears on the arete that wasnt there before. This crazy escape might yet be possible. Stuff a couple golden rolands into a pin scar and tell yourself itll hold a pendulum, pull around the corner with right toe pinned to stop the barndoor. Finger lock slash gaston left hand bomber. Inhale. Pull right hand around arete, making sure not to hit self in the face, and tip into layback. A sequence as unique as the after the goldrush traverse in freycinet. Integral crack was less unique but super elite as its reputation suggests. An elderly couple on a hike got a shock with timmy taking a cartwheel off the crux just as they arrived.

I would like to say that it is no overstatement that this is the best pitch of climbing i have ever indulged in and i am proud to have crashed out the onsight burn by coming into the crux run out, getting scared, placing a .75 in a sandy pin scar, trying to dyno into the handcrack above, falling, blowing the .75 out and nosediving down to the chimney. Pumped as a pool toy on australia day. Amen corner was nice aswell!

They were looking down.. it was 7pm at night when i arrogantly decided id have a crack at this with a low power headtorch. Missed the rp placements and took a run at the crux anyway, punting about 5m above the last cam, resulting in dads old alien catching a 12m flight. A bruised hip, ego and belayer, were some of the reasons I was to come back the next morning and rap down to collect the gear and see all the holds i missed. An experience for sure. First full whipper on gear.

Put a top rope on this after a run up bad company. Very thin and tough to make that first 6 meters work but the gear is there despite appearances. Ill hopefully come back and do this properly one day

4m deck onto ground after a cam blew. Contemplated not logging this out of shame after gen and kyle told me a literal day earlier that i needed to be more careful with my gear off the deck.. i feel like care wasnt so much the issue here. Goaded into the only spot i could put gear in, knew it was shit, tried to back it up and fell. Sitting on the shit cam could have been a resolution, so too not attempting grade limit climbs mentioned as bold in the guide. A learning moment as this could have been much more serious but oweing to the care of the girls on wednesday and some r&r, i got lucky with only bruising to the hip (triaged out of needing an xray) and back on the wall as of yesterday. Ironically comic relief would be a great way of describing the commentary post fall, joking about tanjas bright new rope getting dirty.

This is proper stiff for 20.. beautiful climbing but was humbled hard by the finger crack.. finger locks were delish but the feet are brutal. Ended up bailing off this for the gynaecology finish which also defeated me, forcing a rap from the top from which i failed to extract 2 wires and couldnt pull the rope. You win some, you lose most.

Again abit different to what were used to. Meant to do the NP variant but this looked cool and distinctly less wasps so i decided to plow on up the seam till the gear got shit and i got scared. Turns out these are things that are sometimes hard to solve by downclimbing! Nah it wasnt too bad. Jugs where you need them and the moves onto the big ledge are very whacky - I suspect this isnt actually apart of the route though. I believe the original 'boldly' goes straight up from the crack to the top, we just followed the crack around and found ourselves at the NP anchors. Didnt think it was too bold but some heart rate fluctuations occured at any rate. Great features. Has to be mentioned though that yim whipped on NP; Long term project for him now.. ask him how its going if you bump into him on the street.