Ascents by Jack Seawright having Distinct route

Despite paranoia that the wet rock police would come slash our tyres in the carpark, tony and i got up for sunrise brekky and tore into the park for the '1 to 3 hour' approach - 2:50 and we were booking it.. MP sandbaggers. We took tonys new tag line up apparently to tag a single jumper, but it came in handy on the way down when the estimated 72m rope turned out to be sub-70 and we had to beaner-block to get down. An approach first for both of us when tonys jacket loosely perched on top of his pack on the walkout got poached by a tree branch without him realizing till 15 min down the trail! It makes sense to ramble on about the approach cos it was half the day and featured some fun rock hopping in a beautiful canyon but being lyn hills favourite rock climb carries expectation and this route lived up to it. Absolute moves the whole way and the fang roof on p2 is insane. Im quite surprised and stoked to come away with the all onsight/clean despite 3 holds disintegrating on the final pitch and a bunch of other parts that could have gone either way. Spirits were high the whole day despite some backpacks being gnawed into by squirrels and a pack of HEB cookies was demolished dangerously quickly back at hotel contagion.

After chippies and choc milk and a moog swim, i dragged johnny back down to the crag only to give the game away wigging out over a shit cam and calling take post-crux-move. Felt surprisingly good on the face holds. Belayed johnny with a spectacular red sunset backdrop.

Can i humbly take a win at frog and not try to chase it with another win? No is the answer. Absolutely flogged by this number, got so desperate placing and took a couple good whippers, one bigger than expected when a 000 pulled. So pumped after the day i had to rest on the 18 top section. If it was bolted id stand a chance - is what i said to johnny. Placing the wires is fuckin 90% of the job. The moves themselves are really quite doable. Why do we trad climb eh? I am on the lookout for a frog proj and while i learnt alot climbing this and agree it has some kickass moves, its not my kinda line. Might do again yrs from now.

Holy thumb pump.. janicepts 2.0. Exact same outcome for me. Fought through all the crack difficulties til launching into orbit off a grade 16 face climbing move right under the chains. I was more lactic acid than man. Another reminder of the tax you pay for onsight preservation as opposed to taking rests. Mindblower was classic and thankful no broken ankles from barbarossa. Nice day at the cosmics with yim and nicole

Quite committing climbing that rarely ever lets up. It seems feel both low angle and steep in that youre pumped but youll probably still need to be quick-footed on a fall. Alot of 'granite footwork' required. Pretty mentally exhausted after this one. A fallen cam from the 4th pitch led to an interesting cam extraction from a tree with the local natural stick clip.

So god damn good. Came out with mattias early to beat the sun, jugged straight up skipping the most exhausting warm up pitch in existence. Mattias jumped on and lashed up 6 pieces then came down, i tried to rose-point it through half-preplaced gear. Pretty solid crack but had a footslip and a good whip at half height which probably is the crux depending on style preference. The top is intreguing in the v groove and the victory jug feels so amazing to caress that itll make your hang dog feel like a long term project red point. Stoked to get out and get some fingers stuck on this pitch that consensus says is the best 5.11 in the valley. At this point im on board with it

Avalanche wreckage approach was abit choss but the route was awesome. Very stoked to pull off 'the incinerator' first crux pitch at 11c (maybe a little forgiving at the grade but as always ill take it). Worth missing the arrow spire highline for i think. Maybe. Well never know.

Ive been looking at it for 5 weeks this year.. finally on a sleepy rain morning, stefan came introduced himself and said he was keen on orestes. While conversing with some hotshot tassie climbers, i felt compelled to volunteer myself for the cane, so we trooped up the wet slab. I found the low section worked well for me and as expected, got slapped by the traverse jugs where more than a few sits were needed. Great feeling to attack something hard here with abundant gear and favourable to my style. The most inclined ive felt to have a project. Might drag yim out here tuesday. He wont see this cos he ditched thecrag.

Yep its pretty good alright!! Decent gr 19 climbing up to a complicated hardtoread but showstopping sequence on tufa-like flakes and steeply angled footers. Would be quite pumpy on the send burn with the last 3 draws being pretty hard to rest. Xav came within a hair on the 2nd shot. Another classic line in an unreal position

I - Jack Seawright - solemnly offer my deepest apologies for displaying some of the most pathetic climbing this king line has seen in its proud 50 year history. I had convinced myself probably too easily that i had what it took to climb astroman while tony, fresh off a double rest day, was rearing to go. We passed some young hoofas on the trail that offered to let us go first. We accepted a little too quickly to be considered polite and then ratted behind their backs about how their mums would be angry at them for being late to school pickup. The tables swiftly turned as they onsighted everything behind us and patiently waited at the belay stations as we racked up the following highlight reel: pitch 2: tony fails to locate totem placement off the deck for boulder problem, rips poorly placed dragonfly out of pin scar with hand, then aids original choss corner. I accidentally king swing across slab above on second after sweating off crimp. Pitch 3 enduro corner: I sloffed up the pitch with 20 rests on lead after telling everyone i planned to onsight the pitch. Pitch 5: I bailed off the last section of the pitch due to what i still consider a pretty serious unprotected 5.10 face sequence, and we rapped down the route past the kids who certainly seemed capable enough to find their own way home after school. The only success was that we didnt have an epic on the harding slot!.. because we didnt make it that far. Back at the campsite i copped a 'free dinner and free pants, i just wish i could free astroman'. Yes, i now reuse my jokes in crag writeups.