Ascents by Jack Seawright having Distinct route

'The route sport climbers do to tell everyone they climb 12- trad' is the description on mountain project. And this is about the only thing i sent out here.. Im a filthy sport bro, revoke my trad card, give away my cams and toprope-equip my crack pitches so i can layback them.

Arrived in the carpark and the third person i asked turned out to be alex, my climbing partner for the day from utah (splitterland). We trooped up to the wall after brekky in the carpark, i irresponsibly shed a layer to climb and we were off. Nice easy crack/scramble for about 130m. We had rockpaperscissorsd at the bottom to decide who leads odds and i thought id won seconding the 5.12 tips corner but mountain project combined the commonly linked first 2 pitches in the description so with grim acceptance, i staggered up to the interminable .2 crack. The clean run ended early in the game. A few pieces further, i climbed above the gear into a very tenuous position, pulled a cam off my harness, had a footslip and threw the cam off the cliff to grab a crimp and avoid the 3m whipper onto a bomber cam.. coincidentally the very night before, johnny sullivan had recounted this very act from the nico favresse carbondale shortbus video. Maybe he put the idea in my head. I took the whip. Alex was caught between "nice push dude" and "did you just lob my cam off pitch 4 of a multi?". Luckily it landed on the pitch 1 belay ledge and we could easily retrieve it on the rap down. I freed all the moves but doing the pitch as a send would be pump city.. especially as a committed layback (as the description hints). Whoever climbs it that way needs to contact me explaining how they get their fingers through the metal detector at the airport! Alex reckoned he laybacked some of it so maybe i could have asked him. Alex then made the best of a spooky run out 5.10 pitch after recommending out of my arse that we skimp on fist sizes. Then i climbed the 7m slot pitch, setting him up with the creek-style '5.10+' final pitch that turned out to be solid 11c. His difficulties on lead were not felt by me, basking on the ledge after the notch put us on the sunny west face. Hard catches only! We rapped down, packed the bags and rockhopped the pine creek bed back to the cars. A stellar day out on some of the finest red rocks in red rock

Magnificent rap in and views from the sloping ledge. Each of us had 2 punts. Not as splitter as the bridge crack in bowen hills but alright for rock i guess. Heart broken by the rude boulder at the end but with a bit of rope help the roof turn was very cool. Nice sesh

'Top rope with serious amounts of aid'. What i thought would be a fun evening of tr with the boys turned out to be an annoying anchor build and blind climbing a 24. Cant climb that even with vision. Got hauled up, everyone breathed a sigh of relief, i apologised and suspect the first round at the doogs might be mine.

Log from last week. Logged humility instead (wtf). A few sits and good whips on the 'final nut' which needed abit of saliva in the end to get out from memory. Climb doesnt feel too despo tbh but im sure ill change my tune on the clean attempt. Much more my style than impulse. Fuck you impulse you beautiful but hard climb.

Ended up starting earlier than wed planned for 2 equally nobl3 reasons, yim wanted the school kids to see him leading high on the wall and because i didnt want to lose my benightment Vs. I got abit lost on the wandery 3rd pitch but other than that we were 5 out of 7 down at 130. Pretty good position. Then yim jumped on the 24, wigged above a no. 2 hed shifted 3 times already, took a flogger and the 2 followed him down. In high wind, i heard only 'take' out of: 'im gonna take a fall'. 2 fairly different instructions unfortunately. Considering aforementioned wind and being 150m off the canyon floor, the big marn had had enough; lowered down so i could heroically show the kids how french free with a full nappy works. 9hrs car to car, yim reminded me to mention this as a boasting point but really it speaks more to a lack of onsighting aspiration. Some lights out climbing in this place, i will certainly make a trip back here someday.

Great time lashing out at this mega adventure corner with phil. Despite very different methods both of us found ourselves 90% up all clean. He built a nest and punched to the top for the send. I also built a nest.. add #1 to the list of sizes i cant climb at the creek. Scarface is the superior crag. I had 2 burns at comic relief (project!?); a series of tiered finger crack rooflets going at 5.12-. Fell 4 moves off the victory hand pod on the OS and 1 move off on burn 2 for a good clean gear whipper. Agonizingly close to the first legitimate 12er of the trip. Music and wax box campfire at camp was lovely if not a little hazardous with a concurrent wind storm.

Very memorable route. Super improbable to be able to step around the arete into a 110m crack leadi g straight to the top of red arch! The offwidth felt surprisingly good.. i might think about not aiding all of them. Wasnt as much sand on this route for tony to complain about but the weather forecasters provided an excuse. Clear skies they said, we certainly picked up the pace on the last pitch when thunder started cracking over our heads. We lost all that time and more on the rap by getting the tag line hopelessly tangled in the climbing rope on all the biner block raps. We both tried to tell ourselves the tag line was necessary but some retrobolted anchors meant it could have been done with a single 70. Fook.

Best creek pitch so far. No .75s which was very welcome. Just pinkys down and .3s up to a roof. Then just when your struggling.. INSERTA KNEEBAR. Forget about the predicament you reside in and let your quad skin deal with it. Then pull into double sidepull and reach 7 metres above your head to the final fingerlock. I wussed out of doing this move because i was already 2cm above 2 bomber cams. Very brave. Rad duality was a delightful hands journey and the onslot, a surprisingly fun roof boulder followed by awkward v-groove. Great day avoiding chalk at supercrack buttress

Attempted to aid this old free line this morning.. still a couple points of free but mainly aided all the moves. Bailed off the .2 at the top cos i realised i was going to have to do a free move within 4 grades of 24!? Outrageous. Ended the day moving egotistical pineapple from the send list to the dog list and getting a .5 stuck (inspired by yim of course) which angus managed to remove with some acrobatic upside down cam wielding.