Ascents by Sasha having Sport CPR

🥳🥳🥳 12-13 sessions overall between last year and this.

Got it my first ever RP go. Guess I worked the shit out of the individual pieces and sequences on previous sessions. For me the hardest part of the crux is the early bit, moving into and then off the flake to get to the first crimp. Super stoked to tick this bad boy.

That high left foot at the end of the crux popped but juuust after I hit the landing hold and so could somehow hold on. That LH crimp in the middle of the crux is maybe one of the smallest things I’ve ever held

Oh my GOD. This route was my white whale. I needed better beta. Don’t match pocket (still think I’d need to climb like 28 to do that on link) go straight to elephant ear with LH, raise feet a lot on tiny footers and go RH straight to good incut crimp (skip two finger juglet out right).

Stoked because sour grapes aside, the pocket match was a slow fiddly sequence on an otherwise awesome bouldery route. Now it is all awesome!

3rd shot, 1st RP go after figuring out lip pull beta.

The beta: RF heel hooks pyramid while walking hands up on left sidepull until RH is on a crimp on top, toe LF to back of pyramid to make cut more controlled, cut feet and place RF on big edge on lip, throw RH to sloperjug. Then walk hands up and hold it together until the rest.

Really brawny somewhat inelegant crux beta, but it’s the first rock climb I’ve ever sent with an actual toehook, so that’s pretty cool!

So stoked I can finally stop queuing up for this thing. Even more stoked that the shoulder isn’t complaining much (having an intact labrum is aid 😎)

Was not making the same mistake today as yesterday underestimating wet holds at the top. Two paper towels and one regular tampon were sacrificed in the making of this send. Girl power

Second shot after an exploratory lap. Thought I was too tired to link crux from ground but surprised myself.

Thrilled to get this on 3rd go today. Low crux is really fun techy climbing. High crux is physical even with good beta, I had to crimp hard. I found that LF in bowtie hueco while RF toehooks the roof below keeps me stable in moving for the LH slot. All in all super fun route, with plenty of moves that feel great when you get them right.

First RP go after one exploratory lap to be sure of my beta. I definitely screamed through a couple of the crimps at the top anyway, because I could not find any rest after the crux. Cool climb, this wall has some really good rock!

Believe the hype. Possibly best 24 ever? Though I could see how it would be physically impossible for someone with less than my 170cm span.

Stoked! One of my favorites of the year. Could not do the crux last year, so measurable improvement is always nice, but also (unpopular opinion!) I don’t mind how short it is.

In the end Gabriele G’s beta was the trick. Used lower foot (landing hold of first crux) for the second crux and backflagged LF to get to gaston thingy statically rather than as a desperate throw.

Yay! Almost blew it by clipping the last bolt before anchor rather than skipping it: instant pump x1000.

Not sure if kosher, but claiming the flash even though I had climbed its right neighbours before with the shared start. Less sustained than either MP or RD but a bit of power needed at crux.

Burly start, nice techy crimpy crux, big moves to good holds in between. Really enjoyable climbing!

Found a lower foot for the last big move of crux that makes it feel less bunchy. All in all felt easy today. Stoked about how well training seems to be paying off.

Happy to finish this one. Excellent route

Second go of the day (on the first I fell on the last move AGAIN). This time forced myself to rest on the jug before that last sequence for a long time. Probably gave me just enough juice back. So happy to finally tick this bad boy. 🤩

Third session. It’s really just that one move, but there’s no good rest in the climbing leading up to it, and the contrast of how hard the move is with the glory jugs pretty much right after it and all the way to the top is nice.

Got on this after pulling a u-turn (ha!) on its left neighbour at the impossible shallow pockets. Had shared low crux dialled by then, and went to the top first go putting up the draws. Fun, and pumpy despite a couple of very good rests where you need them.

Stoked to get this second session. Very much my style: crimp crimp high foot crimp crimp. Had to bleed for (on) it but it went!

Could not do start boulder 2 years ago. Could do it now 😀

Second shot. So cool and techy. Anchor clip beta: meatwrap hold on flake with RH, high left foot and flag right or find a far right footer. Super stable, no jug needed

Crux is big bump from pocket to jug between 1st and 2nd bolt. Then pumpy until the anchor. Easy to fall looking for anchor clipping jug (there isn’t one!) and peeling off greasy mossy slopers instead.

Like a reverse boulder problem: start with sketchy slabby mantle topout, then climb a steep one mover.

Second shot, and it took quite the fight. Pumpy crux with skin-eating gritty crimps. The last move (mantle) was so cool - with my wingspan I have to flip the LH lockoff into a palmdown, but for the talls it might not be needed. On my send go, I was so out of power by then that when I did the flip and pushed, I found myself 5cm short of the landing hold. A horrendous slimper intermediate did the job though.

I can’t heel hook for shit so had to do some alternate beta.

Forearms in actual pain at the anchor.

Went up to try to link ground through crux. Did it and surprised myself by climbing to 5th bolt and taking before the big move before the sideways jugs rest, a really encouraging high point. 😃 connies were also 👌 today.

Not too hard to flash if the chalk tells you which ripples are incut crimps as opposed to horrific licheny slimpers

Baby steps. Ground up high point hitting the LH slot thing between bolts 2 and 3 badly and not being able to move from it. Linking that move from ground feels like the hardest thing. Also linked from break to anchor (in the sun 🥵) something to feel good about 🎉

Got stuck with the wrong hand on the right ripple and couldn’t move on flash go. Second shot - nice flowy gently overhanging face climbing, all good holds no heinous crimping required.

First time back on it this year, relearning the moves and changing a few with some new beta from others. Feeling pretty good on it today.

Second shot, fell at crux on flash attempt, which I guess is better than falling before the crux! This climbs like a human routesetter set it: a rest right before the crux, a big lock off move after just to screw with your nerves, and an actual giant victory bucket to clip the anchor from. I liked it, I guess, except for the two-finger crux crimp.

Enjoyable climbing. Maybe one star knocked off for the spicily seeping crucial crimp in the crux sequence. Crucial for me, anyway… Still a cool crux though!

Hard where it looks like it’ll be hard. Thinness to overcome bulge after break

If you have no skin left, this is the route for you. Zero friction on everything after the 3rd bolt. Embarassing how much I had to fight for this send 😅

Tried to flash but sandbagged myself by having someone who just jumps past crucial crimps as my only source of beta.

Put up the draws and everything and still can’t claim onsight because I glanced at Bruno Martins on it. Also sent a non-crucial hold (possibly non-hold) down on my belayer on this one. Wear a helmet!

I actually enjoyed the corner start. Then that move from the RH sidepull/undercling to LH slopey slot thing is gold. I’m at full stretch there and have to do a little bump to get that hold just right. Then the crux is cool - seems like you could go a couple ways there and I pretty much tried them all before finding what worked for me (layback off left sidepulls while walking feet up on left wall). Moves between last bolt and anchor are less elegant and super pumpy thanks to glassy holds.

Came back for the send after working it yesterday. Top is easy but so pumpy if you’re coming into it having done the rest of the route.

Backlogging. My longest project (6-7 sessions?) and that heel hook crux at the start of the steepness is possibly the hardest move I’ve ever done on rock. Amazing climb and my absolute anti-style. So happy I could climb it, so happy I never have to again.

3rd shot, surprised myself with the send because I was super pumped going into the kneebar. Resting in the right position and for long enough in there is key, as is using correct low feet at last bolt.

Backlogging. Cool boulder on top. Feels impossible until you figure it out, then feels easy

With a name like this, it was fitting for me to eventually climb this route. Need good headgame for getting to the second bolt calmly. Then a nice techy crux higher up

This is indeed a cute slab.

Really good climbing

First 22 onsight woo. Less mysterious beta than other routes here but really nice climbing

This is great, gently overhanging and sustained and pumpy on incut crimps. Plenty of feet and hands to choose from. A style I really like.

Session 4. Not feeling strong today but worked it the best I could. New crux beta with very high, very right and pretty marginal RF (tried to use Gabriele G’s foot here and found myself 20cm short of the landing hold on the deadpoint 🥲 so needed to decide a smeary thing above it would be my RF here). Probably have all the sequences dialled, but it’s two steps forward and one step back because Gabriele G sent and so have to place my own draws from now on 😭