Ascents by Jack Seawright having Trad CPR

Shane hoofed up on lead and set a toppy for all us plebs to go rip the skin off our fingers (on this and digital readout). Would be amazing to climb this well! doesnt feel like you need to be super strong, just a really good creek climber. The roof goes surprisingly easy (i still stuffed it). Despite my floundering, it felt cool being on the same piece of rock as in the stanhope arcteryx vid ive watched a million times.

'The route sport climbers do to tell everyone they climb 12- trad' is the description on mountain project. And this is about the only thing i sent out here.. Im a filthy sport bro, revoke my trad card, give away my cams and toprope-equip my crack pitches so i can layback them.

Day 1 of ben long weekend with claire and guy. Everyone had a good climb on this bad boy. We were entertained at the start by darren rolling up like a tornado in purple flared pants and soloing the gr 18 offwidth first pitch of defender as a committed (very) layback. Rope around shoulder, climbing partner still putting his bags down. He even had a footslip. Id not like to be the one carrying him back to car villa. Returned to ramadan to confirm its still hard and we can confirm it. Not as fucked as it felt last year with better techas but still abit red hot for 19. Great to be back in splitter heaven

Squeeked in before an online job interview thanks to johnnys slick barnstorm up infinity. Alot of variety in it makes for a good adventure. Difficulty wise, 1 hard sequence; nice and airy. Bit hard not to touch infinity up high but yeah nah yeah, happy to have done it

Martino lead us up a dodgy trad pitch which he ate up cos hes secretly a big sketchy trad fiend. I rambled the following 35m which was actually quite nice up to caritas which marty took. A screamer sequence at the top of that corner. Such a corker. I was so stoked with maponus that i lowered off without detaching the trolley and took marty for a victory swing. Lunch and arvo sesh at slider with ben and dan pretending again to be a 25 climber. Geoffman almost made it to the crag after a beach day. Bottom of lower slider. Good effort from him.

Warm up on infinity as decided by johnny.. cant get out of it now. Its teardrops day. Felt good the whole way. Bulge was pretty cruisy for me, it was one move to get hands on the mantle ledge that i had to buckle down for most. I yelled down to johnny that i was now infact awake. Probably easy for the grade and not sure i did anything super standout but finally remained attached on a 22 OS. Looking forward to going to the pub and getting up on the counter and yelling to everyone that i onsighted a 22. Should make some friends.

A day of victories and be-reals. In the frigid morning breeze, kobi procrastinated and almost convinced us that he actually couldnt place a retrieveable cam, then touched the wall and turned into a beast, shooting up eternity for his first 18 trad onsight. Inspired, georgia fought an empty harness 10m below the chains with singing and careful pseudo-soloing to set the line up for sydney on joseph. With yim guiding maddie up sparto, i dragged the gang to the kraken and stupidly lowered the gear off for the top rope laps but the overhang made this futile. We did however get a tr groundfall for georgia (butt was apparently due protection from any further injury), as well as what looked like a silk performance trying to use the top rope to get back on the wall post-fall. Tilly was getting thrown around on the belay ledge like a ragdoll. Eventually kobi belted the crux in full layaway style and we finished the day putting everyone else up the spartan. Kobi laughed at me for protecting p1 with 2 pieces then did the same himself, but i called him out so he quickly snuck a 3rd garbage piece in before the anchor. Everyone freaked it abit on p2 and most importantly, georgia was able to bank her bereal photo for the chimney top out. Social media has been graced! Fantastic to see some people making real gains in their trad game in ewbanks backyard this morning.

100th route at frog! Crux must be about gr25 for shorties, but a nice committing highstep one-mover if your 6ft tall. Pretty happy with the decision to get up at 430 for this one. Jimbos following ascent of epic journey - 'aid journey' as he put it - was an absolute spooge exhibition: young families, fairy floss and seasonal flu; the works.

Feels about 19 and ill be honest like cal and the rest of the seq community and downgra... nah fuck it ill take it hahahaha yeah the boys

awwwww ill give it an OS log.. cant help myself. Thought id wuss out of this today like all the other days ive wussed out of it. Really smooth and flowey climbing (the roof wasnt as smooth and flowey but still pretty chill really). hardest part for me was committing to the smooth footers in the base of the cave. Caught my bodyweight on a handjam at one point and punched the hand crack above on no gear cos theres not enough no.2s on the planet to stitch this one up. Its a handjammers climb for sure and probs is thought of by too many as a gruntathon. Some serious faff up top trying to find a place to rap down. Ended up swinging in from thor anchor to get some gear. No booty left though, bootyers look elsewhere (yim).

Despite paranoia that the wet rock police would come slash our tyres in the carpark, tony and i got up for sunrise brekky and tore into the park for the '1 to 3 hour' approach - 2:50 and we were booking it.. MP sandbaggers. We took tonys new tag line up apparently to tag a single jumper, but it came in handy on the way down when the estimated 72m rope turned out to be sub-70 and we had to beaner-block to get down. An approach first for both of us when tonys jacket loosely perched on top of his pack on the walkout got poached by a tree branch without him realizing till 15 min down the trail! It makes sense to ramble on about the approach cos it was half the day and featured some fun rock hopping in a beautiful canyon but being lyn hills favourite rock climb carries expectation and this route lived up to it. Absolute moves the whole way and the fang roof on p2 is insane. Im quite surprised and stoked to come away with the all onsight/clean despite 3 holds disintegrating on the final pitch and a bunch of other parts that could have gone either way. Spirits were high the whole day despite some backpacks being gnawed into by squirrels and a pack of HEB cookies was demolished dangerously quickly back at hotel contagion.

Well.. i was preparing some depricating dialogue for my next frog aid-venture on a climb too hard for me. Blindsided myself completely with this result. All over in ~20 minutes of climbing. Infamous move off the ledge is the crux for me but its protectable with the good ol' red halfy, starting to really scratch that thing up. In general, i dont like to log onsights as i feel like it should be more about the experiFIRST 21 ONSIGHT YEWWWWW!!

No mistakes this time. One of the best routes at frog, never too hard but keeps you on your toes (not just metaphorical.. its the biggest calf destroyer out here). Especially love the boulder to escape to the sloping ledge up top. What a finale. Also didnt stitch johnny up the way i did jarred a year ago with the exposed swing. Im learning!

A morfydd repeat: up and down the start 3 times. The word 'sandbagged' may have come out of my mouth many times, then on the verge of giving up, found the sequence. Managed not to drop it post crux this time. Yim called for a haul through. I told him nah. He eventually got it using some beta i cant get my head around having watched him point at the holds back on ground but it was bound to involve some of that wacky high foot goof he pulls. After TC he quickly turned it back on, selecting missing link, the local balancy 17R with gale force winds, and wobbled to victory with some very improvised gear extension methods towards the top.

Amazing flake systems out here. Granites definitely grippier up here without the glacier polish but the brain is still in yosemite mode and resulted in me desperately ring locking a 5.8 fairly-obviously-layback crack. Got rained out in the arvo and found a pub to knock some pool balls around with the euros. Would really like to do more climbing here and stoked on how the pacific northwest climbing is feeling coming into squamish season!

Outrageous as advertised. Stemming is quite secure, just really wide. Ideally you have 1.5m long legs for this but only be 1.6m tall in total. A very odd looking body indeed. Youd just climb back in black everyday and not get too involved with society and its body image expectations. Very well protected as oppposed to its neighbour supposedly. Irrational fear still had me rather gripped though. Another candidate for hopelessly aiding your way through and still having a sick time. 3rd pitch is loose but still quite safe and interesting climbing.

Planned to climb with just kyle this morning: kyle at 830pm last night: just met a yosemite climber in the gym.. i think ive talked him into frog in the morn. Me: cool well bring him. Leave at 6? Kyle: cool! Nah 4. Fuck. My eyes sting. Worth it though, 5 longish pitches done! In feb on a 31degree day with a party of 3! We were moving. Alex was moving on conquistador. Onsight speed record probably, he looked way to smooth. So i stepped in, kyle, i said, enough with this donating him classics, im gonna show him what happens on your ~60th trip out here. Now alex has experienced 4 classics and a wasp infested arete variant jammed between some classics! Shit talk aside though, this was surprisingly good. Cant decide whether the traverse out from totga felt contrived or delightfully airy, but once the reachy carrot is clipped, 20m worth of thoughtful side pulls, blind holds and high feet on both sides of the arete ensues. Definitely a deserving route in its own right even amongst elite company either side. Started getting warm up high so we collected our chips and headed to get kyles favourite steak sanga and i pilfered alex for his usa beta.

Probably the best route tony antoine and i lapped at wall street - the crag where you can belay out your car window. Makes kps approach seem like frenchmans cap. A nice face climbing break from the endless expanse of splitters outside moab

Finally feels like tassie again doing 1hr scree approaches. God the rock is grippy here. Some pinky down finger torques feeling like hand jams out here. Who among them, poisoned and airbourne for me today. Fell off the move on the airbourne arete to the horn on feet as delicate as a life size house made of cards. "Why does a gr 20 arete feel 5 grades harder than the 22 crack". Delicious climbing, crag vibe on with kris as always but also rach and alex today, and eyes peeled for any romcom release about a guy that collects coffee cups and a girl that collects lids. Yes our minds were warped after the scree rambling.

Abit shorter than the bridger jacks but definitely a more epic view on top and definitely more lights out climbing on average. The roof on the second mega pitch has the exposure of disco non stop party. Never shit myself harder on perfect hands. Chimney up high almost involved a harness removal, luckily ive gone jusssst easy enough on the rip off oreos back at camp.

Malamute plans ditched post carpark rack up on a whim. Ethans 8th time up this route so he wanted to speed climb it. I found myself simul climbing some pretty legit 5.10 with some pretty legit loops out but nothing too insane. Every pitch is quite different. Almost put my back out on the layback flake pitch up top. Never had back problems before, id imagine this might be an issue for many people. Amazing way of getting up the chiffa for the first time. Post climb fist bump rightfully waited till after the traverse across the very exposed bellygoode ledge.

Were here on school camp with newy state high. Some genuinely delightful company from the gang over dinner and a refreshingly selfie heavy camera roll after leaving my phone on the can this morning. Wow i really got off track here. We got to the climb after yim and i somehow lost eachother on the canyon approach. The local 18R made for a very intreguing p1, was very stoked with my first 'nut stack' placement. I was reminded of how yim actually did this purely from improvisation on only his 3rd trad multi a year ago. I have decided that limestone is honest froth fuel and that laybacking is infact mandatory. Rattly jams: optiona.. a bad idea. Yeah. 3 pitches of beaut, p4 decent, p5 trash, bailed, downclimbed and rapped off. Climbed the wailing cockatoo direct start afterwards, feeling pretty good about myself and well.. that cockatoo ate my lunch, drank my beer and took my girl to the movies. Gear stashed for evolution and a nice hike out via the opposite side of the gorge ft. a lovely smelling cave.

Much better than last years gear zipper retreat attempt. Some facey moves down low teased my fingies abit but the jamming and ow felt very secure. One of the best lines out here for steamy stemming and i like abit of air uo between my legs. Dont take that the wrong way.. no do actually.

With Yim's motivation reading about this route in the living rock, i took the excuse to throw myself at the madness that is the corner of eden. A great climb of frog, like every classic gets harder with every move, until you end up with a perfect bum size ledge on the right to bask in the post crux glory (not every classic has the last part but this one sure did). Yim did an incredible job with only one slip on follow. A pretty rough frog initiation if you ask anyone. Advice to would-be ascentionists: Dont take big gear.. you dont need it and it gets up in your grill come the flaring crux. Over and out

Quite proud to fire this crux move off. Would have been easier if i could get the knee in straight off the sloping ledge but was made to bump the stack with a shit footnub which made things a little bit spicy. Mikky stepped up took the second off steve for this one and pledged not to bother with wide techaz.. seemed improbable but she punched through the crux in fairly short order! Impressive effort from her

Quite a nice climb! Stupidly used my big cams in the first half of the climb which resulted in clipping the pin and firing the 8m crux section without pro. Defo read the description and have ideally a 6 or at least a 5 for the final off-width. This section of the climb is quite fantastic though.. Creativity inspiring!

Rotte ascent - 3 man team in german - with moritz and elias. 'All good, I enjoy 3 person party. Means you can talk on belay and smoke ciggy together' - Moritz after I thanked the lads for babysitting my partnerless ass for the day.

What a wild route! Nice wide hands into some face moves either side of the crack with some wicked body-hauling onto ledges creates the scene for a cool adventure route, but the real show-stopper is where the wide crack seams out and forces you onto the airy sharp arete on the right. One precarious move in particular involving a sloping ledge just before the top of the pillar provides a bag-full of fun. An absolute gem of a route. Linked up with max who was finishing up on infinity at the same time and donated him a couple hexes for the last 10m lol

What a sick pitch!! Theres really something about corner climbing, so much fun. Jams rarely work as well as you want in the crack, which is good cos it forces you into frictiony bridging moves most of the way up. Foot nubs are right where you need them each time.. quite incredible really. Will forever remember this climb as the one on which dad learnt (didnt learn) how to use a grigri and got shortroped for 10 seconds on every placement all goods though!

Really liked this one.. not technically an onsight, i stept onto it to test the finger crack and exploded off my foot-nub. I am still logging the OS cos the serious part of the climb was onsighted and i like lying to myself for validation. There was one move around the middle to get established on the solid ledge at 2/3 height that was actually quite committing even for 20, but otherwise this was quite chill. Good positive holds and very solid feet most of the way. Trad anchor in the back wall to rap off then walked up and down the side to clean it

Rectory castleton link day! Last day climbing with antoine. 2 towers 1 day. Fine jade up the rectory and north face of castleton. Great day

Almost internal monologued my hungover arse out of doing this climb. Glad I copped it Face stuff at the start is thin but solid, couple of mildly committing moves into jams that could have gone astray in the spooge of the morning. Beautiful moves in the overhung handcrack (with a double handjam cutloose featuring on what i reckon could be the technical crux, but hard to know cos this entire climb feels pretty close to the grade). Last 5 metre section off the ledge isnt insanely tricky but makes for a pretty wild finale!! Not to overstate but probs best route ive done at this point!

Thin hand traverse jugs with toe hook and swing! Most aesthetic crack ive ever seen. Antoine took some good gear whips. We convinced a californian kid there for tr solo to lead it as his first 11 on gear and it snowed on him. Still went to the chains, legend. Found an unguidebooked finger crack around the back of the area that climbed super nicely. Lucky we didnt multi today as planned, its axe weather out there.

Short but bloody sick. First move is fkn toiighhhttttt. Rest of the climb is quality too. Hip flexibility definitely would have helped and 2nd half of the climb was abit scary in the rain but the top out was easier than appearances. Felt like i had to work quite hard all in all so happy with the arvo OS. Definitely keen to get back on this one!

Spent alot of time tip toeing around nubs trying to figure out where the route was going. An exciting outing but in terms of movement quality there are better 20s at frog for sure. Pretty airy up in the crux which is nice. The Route is also pretty conducive to high rope drag.. but then again Piranha would argue i should have put more thought into placing gear and bringing more slings

Magnificent rap in and views from the sloping ledge. Each of us had 2 punts. Not as splitter as the bridge crack in bowen hills but alright for rock i guess. Heart broken by the rude boulder at the end but with a bit of rope help the roof turn was very cool. Nice sesh

Aquilla and dangerman plus a cheeky tr over master blaster which is impossible to free i think. Had to ascend the tr on 2 prussiks to retrieve a cam which sucked abit but thankfully no lunches dropped off belay ledges today. Dangerman is still the sickest pitch at robins and potentially anywhere. Back to camp early for the ceremonial cooking of pedro and yulis mammoth zucchini.

Arrived in the carpark and the third person i asked turned out to be alex, my climbing partner for the day from utah (splitterland). We trooped up to the wall after brekky in the carpark, i irresponsibly shed a layer to climb and we were off. Nice easy crack/scramble for about 130m. We had rockpaperscissorsd at the bottom to decide who leads odds and i thought id won seconding the 5.12 tips corner but mountain project combined the commonly linked first 2 pitches in the description so with grim acceptance, i staggered up to the interminable .2 crack. The clean run ended early in the game. A few pieces further, i climbed above the gear into a very tenuous position, pulled a cam off my harness, had a footslip and threw the cam off the cliff to grab a crimp and avoid the 3m whipper onto a bomber cam.. coincidentally the very night before, johnny sullivan had recounted this very act from the nico favresse carbondale shortbus video. Maybe he put the idea in my head. I took the whip. Alex was caught between "nice push dude" and "did you just lob my cam off pitch 4 of a multi?". Luckily it landed on the pitch 1 belay ledge and we could easily retrieve it on the rap down. I freed all the moves but doing the pitch as a send would be pump city.. especially as a committed layback (as the description hints). Whoever climbs it that way needs to contact me explaining how they get their fingers through the metal detector at the airport! Alex reckoned he laybacked some of it so maybe i could have asked him. Alex then made the best of a spooky run out 5.10 pitch after recommending out of my arse that we skimp on fist sizes. Then i climbed the 7m slot pitch, setting him up with the creek-style '5.10+' final pitch that turned out to be solid 11c. His difficulties on lead were not felt by me, basking on the ledge after the notch put us on the sunny west face. Hard catches only! We rapped down, packed the bags and rockhopped the pine creek bed back to the cars. A stellar day out on some of the finest red rocks in red rock

22 start is pretty thin alright. Skipped it after 2 fails. Varied climbing up corner then wild traverse into r&r. Bailed off r&r last time due to not enough gear so all the climbing was new to me. Johnny and yim had front row seats of the top half from theory ledge. Laughed at me for the rope drag, then asked me to pause in positions for photos while cruxing out. Yim even said "nah dont hold the jug, looks better if you hold the crimp". Eventually it was jespers turn. He had had enough by the traverse, fair enough. I lowered him off just as yim rolled up and tied straight in. Gettin warm at froggie but snuck this in before the fucked sun.

Stunner. Didnt have too much trouble finding it. Just look for the most chalked up climb at frog by far!! Some fairly strong layback moves at the bottom were really fun. Bit of a victory romp to the anchors last 5m. Great gear. Got a hex in! Stoked

Iron mandy, antifrom, oppenheimers and drop out. Good morning with kyle and a couple up-and-comers on the frog scene. I may have accidentally stood on a carrot on oppenheimers.. hmm.. not sure. Right in the cruxy section aswell. Dodgy form. Placing gear up top was the job of a librarian stacking the shelves. Move the rock to the side and stuff the gear in.

Thanks Sam Pearson for the nomination. A classic sea to summit route of tibro! I chucked a cam in way out left on p1 that caused insane drag and got into abit of a crunch at the next bolt. Copped a phone call from the place i interviewed at on tuesday.. didnt get the job. Thank god. There was another round of interviews apparently. I was safer from employment than i thought. I saftied into the bolt while yim soloed to my cam and got it out so i could keep climbing. Definitely bolted to be a trad multi.. i was pretty keen to not fall on quite a few sections on all pitches. I may have avoided cruxing on the 3rd pitch but my traverse out left and subsequent regaining of the climb could have easily bombed yim with a factor 2. Felt quite risky, should have just punched the jugs. We enjoyed lunch above pitch 4, stoked after the improbable flake move at the top before walking around to find p6. We found it. Fuck. Where is the pro? Bouldered through it. Felt bold but the holds were amazing. It would be both scary and maybe funny? to see someone deck it off that start into the bushes. Topping this pitch, delighted at the lovely slabbing, i pulled rope till i could see the end with no scotchfingerman attached, followed by yim calling out for the rope. Fuck. Had to rap down, chuck him the rope and jug back up. Big marn was on his phone apparently.. Big bush bash reminiscent of colloseum corner, then down caves, showering some dirt on an angry local 'guide' double strand rapping at the same time and rope as his girlfriend 5m above. Nice. Cant give him too much shit, we found ourselves 'simuljugging' second day in a row from overshooting anchors. Still alive and most importantly, unemployed.

Ended up starting earlier than wed planned for 2 equally nobl3 reasons, yim wanted the school kids to see him leading high on the wall and because i didnt want to lose my benightment Vs. I got abit lost on the wandery 3rd pitch but other than that we were 5 out of 7 down at 130. Pretty good position. Then yim jumped on the 24, wigged above a no. 2 hed shifted 3 times already, took a flogger and the 2 followed him down. In high wind, i heard only 'take' out of: 'im gonna take a fall'. 2 fairly different instructions unfortunately. Considering aforementioned wind and being 150m off the canyon floor, the big marn had had enough; lowered down so i could heroically show the kids how french free with a full nappy works. 9hrs car to car, yim reminded me to mention this as a boasting point but really it speaks more to a lack of onsighting aspiration. Some lights out climbing in this place, i will certainly make a trip back here someday.

Thought id be writing to my dearest thecrag about a climb called motel california today; the coveted 3 pitch adventure climb of the area, but apart from an airy mantle (which i always seem to appreciate less than the masses), it wasnt hype at all. Instead, out of the 7 pitches done for yimmy boy and i today, this one takes the cake. Very thin move (for me, probably a jug for the preens) to get off the deck. I claimed the red point at the top after a semi-controlled semi-falling step off the crimp at the start and yim begged me tirelessly to reconsider and claim the onsight, so it was with the utmost embarrassment that i obliged. The excitement was not over after my lead either. Right before my very eyes, yim, while traversing to the anchor along the top on second, slipped, fell off the ledge and caught a tree with one outstretched hand to stop a 4m swing across the wall! A great start to the north qld trip.

Log from last week. Logged humility instead (wtf). A few sits and good whips on the 'final nut' which needed abit of saliva in the end to get out from memory. Climb doesnt feel too despo tbh but im sure ill change my tune on the clean attempt. Much more my style than impulse. Fuck you impulse you beautiful but hard climb.

'Top rope with serious amounts of aid'. What i thought would be a fun evening of tr with the boys turned out to be an annoying anchor build and blind climbing a 24. Cant climb that even with vision. Got hauled up, everyone breathed a sigh of relief, i apologised and suspect the first round at the doogs might be mine.

Wicked adventure and stellar first desert tower. A real alpine touch at the end, i started climbing the wrong pillar and had to get my knee stuck to pull my phone out and access mountain project to discover i needed the other pillar. Accidentally booted antoines new 3 into the back of a chimney. Expensive kick that was.

A pearler! Harder than rickety kate i reckon. Gives you faith in corner-smearing feet.. feel sorry for fat fingered people but my chipolata sausage fingers were perfect for the locks! Joked with Dave and Brian that a pencil sharpener might have been an alternative. A really cool committing face move to call it curtains aswell. Clip face anchor at frog and turn to jarred: "feel like i just sent a sport climb"

Very memorable route. Super improbable to be able to step around the arete into a 110m crack leadi g straight to the top of red arch! The offwidth felt surprisingly good.. i might think about not aiding all of them. Wasnt as much sand on this route for tony to complain about but the weather forecasters provided an excuse. Clear skies they said, we certainly picked up the pace on the last pitch when thunder started cracking over our heads. We lost all that time and more on the rap by getting the tag line hopelessly tangled in the climbing rope on all the biner block raps. We both tried to tell ourselves the tag line was necessary but some retrobolted anchors meant it could have been done with a single 70. Fook.

Great time lashing out at this mega adventure corner with phil. Despite very different methods both of us found ourselves 90% up all clean. He built a nest and punched to the top for the send. I also built a nest.. add #1 to the list of sizes i cant climb at the creek. Scarface is the superior crag. I had 2 burns at comic relief (project!?); a series of tiered finger crack rooflets going at 5.12-. Fell 4 moves off the victory hand pod on the OS and 1 move off on burn 2 for a good clean gear whipper. Agonizingly close to the first legitimate 12er of the trip. Music and wax box campfire at camp was lovely if not a little hazardous with a concurrent wind storm.

Best creek pitch so far. No .75s which was very welcome. Just pinkys down and .3s up to a roof. Then just when your struggling.. INSERTA KNEEBAR. Forget about the predicament you reside in and let your quad skin deal with it. Then pull into double sidepull and reach 7 metres above your head to the final fingerlock. I wussed out of doing this move because i was already 2cm above 2 bomber cams. Very brave. Rad duality was a delightful hands journey and the onslot, a surprisingly fun roof boulder followed by awkward v-groove. Great day avoiding chalk at supercrack buttress