Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3417
points
| 28 ~27 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Jayden Bennett, Adrian, Victoria, Brittany, Scoootter Barnes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | |||
One two three with Adrian, Brittany, and me.
|
|||||||||
3278
points
| 25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes - with Adrian, Victoria, liv h | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||
Pre-placed.
|
|||||||||
2991
points
| 25 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
1
2
3
| 58m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | |||
Brilliant route from James and Hugh! Deserves a whole lot more attention than it gets. With this, Harbinger, and La Niña, Boyce Town has some of the best under appreciated cracks in the mountains. Second go on the first pitch and then onsighted the upper two pitches linked together with Paul belaying on the ground. The first pitch is an amazing roof crack at about 24 that is unfortunately guarded by a pretty hard boulder off the ground (I do not know what grade it is). This should however not put you off! With one aid move or climbing in via a bolt to the left you can access the amazing upper crack which really is rad, or just do the move. The upper pitches are a bit shit and on shit bolts; either very old carrots or stainless bash ins. I wouldn’t really recommend bothering to do them. I didn’t enjoy the climbing and thought it was kinda dangerous; probably takes away from the quality of the first pitch. A much better thing to do would be to step right and finish up La Niña for sustained trad radness (or lower off). Because of rope drag and gear and general shitness and so I could rap clean the route, after pulling the steep section on the top pitch I climbed direct up the grey jugs instead of traversing left to the snappy orange rock for the last few metres. I think this makes the climbing less offensive and allows you to get to the tree belay on top in a way that means you can easily belay or rap. You can rap from this tree to the anchor at the top of the first pitch on a 70m.
|
|||||||||
2990
points
| 25 | ★★★ Snakes & Ladders - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Harry Kadi, Will Monks | 80m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | |||
One of the very best cracks in the mountains but I did not find it to be jugs. Seven days of effort, one some years ago and then recently three on TRS and three with partners. Thanks Paul for the send belay and Harry and Will for coming down on the other days to support. For the third pitch I did a long traverse right to meet up with Telstar placing no gear. It's a bit of a choose your own adventure up there but at least this way was easy...ish. Someone go do it and tell me what grade it is.
|
|||||||||
2987
points
| 25 | ★★★ Harbinger — 2 attempts - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Match | 50m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | |||
Mega mega mega! Definitely one to add to the trad canon. Started up Boisterous then stepped right at the ledge as per FA and pulled the rope up and dropped it back down at the stance for drag purposes. All the bolts had draws on them but I placed all the trad on red point except for the two fixed wires that I hung the draws on during the send. I could wax lyrical but you should just go do it instead. Second go.
|
|||||||||
2982
points
| 29/30 | ★★ Augmentium - with Adrian, Jayden Bennett, Jared, Heather | 30m | Freycinet National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Mar 2024 | |||
Adrian did it!
|
|||||||||
2953
points
| 32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym - with Jack, Liz Chong | 30m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th Apr 2021 | |||
You can’t not climb Punks on its birthday!!
|
|||||||||
2914
points
| 24 X | ★ Lois Lane - with Adrian, the gang | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | |||
TR pre inspection.
|
|||||||||
2903
points
| 24 | ★★★ Deep Play - with Jayden Bennett, Adrian, Mark, Victoria, Brittany | 20m, 6 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Classic | Wed 28th Feb 2024 | |||
2853
points
| 26 | ★★★ Yesterday - with Jack, Liz Chong | 27m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th Apr 2021 | |||
Winner winner! Top roped it twice for maximum chance of success then managed it without too much drama. Almost fluffed the top. One of the finer trad outings i’ve experienced.
|
|||||||||
2835
points
| 23 | ★★★ Curtain Call - with Christopher Glastonbury, Chloe Fu | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd May 2022 | |||
One of the better routes i’ve done. Classic from go to woah.
|
|||||||||
2798
points
| 27 | ★★★ ORANGE JAM - with Harry Kadi, Ben Sanford | 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Aug 2019 | |||
2795
points
| 26 | ★★★ Titan - with Jacques Beaudoin | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Sep 2020 | |||
After taking an absolute monster whipper into a tree off the very final move (and the ensuing jumar to get back on and then down climbing the whole route to get the gear back) I managed to haul my very tired self through the belly of the beast, around the corner, and to the top of the scary flake where the route ends. I placed all the gear on lead except for one semi-stuck and easy to place wire at the start, which was the compromise to allow for safely and efficiently cleaning the route each time. A very very good process. I think it could be 25 but also 27 depending on how tall/short you are and a whole bunch of other factors, so we’ll leave it at 26 until someone tells us otherwise. Radness! (x2)
|
|||||||||
2792
points
| 23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch - with Harry Kadi, Christopher Glastonbury | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Dec 2021 | |||
Brilliant route. Had the full value experience of major flash pump from no warm up above exciting pins and gear. Loved it!
|
|||||||||
2776
points
| 22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets - with Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy, Hilary, Chris, the children | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | |||
2733
points
| 25 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
Tom, Tristan, Duncan Brown, Emily
3
25
30m
| 55m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 17th Mar 2022 | |||
Pretty rad to be down playing on this wall. Not sure how many opportunities i’ll have to try the route whilst working on this film about Duncan with Tristan and Tom for TNF but was cool to have a play as Duncan rested. Seconded pitch one first go which was pretty chill and then did three back to back laps on the 25 pitch. I went up it first to figure it out and fell off a few times, came down to the stance just above the balancy start and climbed from there to the top but figured I should do it properly so lowered back down to the belay and did it pulling the rope through the grigri the whole time which was a bit brutal. Hopefully it feels easier on lead.
|
|||||||||
2714
points
| 21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey - with Joe Faulkner | 27m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||
Actually unbelievable.
|
|||||||||
2705
points
| 24 | ★★★ Common Knowledge - with Swena Zheng | 35m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 12th May 2022 | |||
Dreamy. TR to warm up and get the gear back out of it after Swena’s heroic onsight attempt and then had a lovely time on the sharp end. One of the best routes at Araps, well protected, and not too hard for the grade by the standards around these parts. Single pitch (obviously).
|
|||||||||
2696
points
| 22 | ★ Blackguard - with Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy, Hilary, Chris, the children | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | |||
2696
points
| 22 | ★★ Continuum - with Christopher Glastonbury, Ashlee Hendy, Hilary, Chris, the children | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 13th Apr 2023 | |||
I top roped the easy first half on Ash’s gear after her valiant attempt and then quested onwards through the crux and beyond and got scared. Not jugs.
|
|||||||||
2689
points
| 25 |
★★ End of Days
- with
Paul Frothy Thomson
| 120m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Nov 2018 | |||
Awesome day out on a route I have wanted to do forever. First pitch is pretty good and mostly trad, probably kinda easy at the grade but with one gripping section. Pitch two saw me get mighty flash pumped and bog down on the arete for a while before somehow squeaking through on friction alone. Pitch three was super duper rad but probably also not too hard for the grade (especially with small fingers). I sent it with a tonne of Paul's beta and I doubt I would have been able to onsight it as it is pretty cryptic and hanging the draws kinda sucks as some of them are in fairly inconvenient spots. I only placed about half of the gear on this pitch but where there is trad it's about grade 16 so I don't really think it matters that much. Pitch four is not amazing but also totally inoffensive. Pitch five is kind of crap as you have to do real moves on some very scary rock. I was terrified I was going to punt the last pith snapping something off.
Ultimately though definitely worthwhile and should see more ascents. If you aren't super fussed with perfect onsight ethics it could be worth hanging the draws on the bolts as you rap down the third pitch, and especially leave behind a sling to extend the life out of the first bolt in the corner so you can clip it low (we are talking 1.5m+ runner) and thus alleviate the potential for a pretty heinous swinging fall. Suggested rack is small to medium wires and cams from BD 0.3 to 1 with doubles of 0.5 to 1. |
|||||||||
2677
points
| 25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 28m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th Oct 2018 | |||
Total dream send. A very high quality rock climb! Huge thanks to Liz for the gear and excellent beta. Super duper psyched!
|
|||||||||
2672
points
| 22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner - with Swena Zheng, Chloe Fu | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd May 2022 | |||
Was on the 2018 trip list. Good to do!
|
|||||||||
2651
points
| 23 | ★★★ Despatched - with Adrian, James | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th May 2023 | |||
Botched the onsight slipping off. Second go in the rain. Full value.
|
|||||||||
2649
points
| 25 | ★★★ Ride Like the Wind - with Christopher Glastonbury | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th May 2022 | |||
Third go after Chris did it, taking out his gear. A bit of a spicy meatball this one, not sure if I’m brave enough this trip.
|
|||||||||
2625
points
| 21 | ★★★ Light Fingered Maddison - with Elliot Vercoe, Mark, Victoria, Brittany | 15m | Freycinet National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Mar 2024 | |||
2617
points
| 22 |
★★★ Focal Point
- with
Harry Kadi
2
17
15
| 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Oct 2021 | |||
Classic in the genre! Burly, reachy, steep crack climbing on generally good rock. Definitely needs to be added to the Bluies quality cracks circuit. I found it very intimidating at times but rarely actually hard. Would round out an absolutely mega trad day at Engineers doing this, Static, and CTW. Took the advice of rapping in on a fixed line and rope soloing to get out. Harry and I both thought the pitch lengths were fairly generous.
|
|||||||||
2574
points
| 28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard - with the strong folk | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th May 2022 | |||
Another three on the last day. An unfortunate foot slip and fatigue from twelve days on meant no dice for me. No sends in doggers gully were had this day.
|
|||||||||
2573
points
| 28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard - with the strong folk | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th May 2022 | |||
Same log as the previous one. The whole no rest days thing really gets to you.
|
|||||||||
2573
points
| 28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard - with the strong folk | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th May 2022 | |||
Another three goes. Two one hangs from different points.
|
|||||||||
2571
points
| 28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard - with the strong folk | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th May 2022 | |||
Two goes.
|
|||||||||
2560
points
| 24 | ★★★ Dirty Dancing - with Jack, Liz Chong, Harry Kadi, Lewis | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | |||
Nice to get done. Not too bad when you know where all the gear goes. It is a shame that the difficulty of the top 5m isn't spread over the whole route.
|
|||||||||
2554
points
| 23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz - with Mary Grace Stocker, Stephen Hawkshaw | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 10th Oct 2019 | |||
Brilliant line, brilliant climbing, brilliant gear. Very much a type one fun experience questing up this face. Everything went nice and smoothly and I found myself at the top without too many dramas. Exceptional and not particularly hard for the grade, and definitely a route that should be on everyone's list!
|
|||||||||
2554
points
| 22 |
★★★ Reaper
- with
Liz Chong, Jack
| 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Apr 2021 | |||
A ten star grovel. In a single pitch.
|
|||||||||
2546
points
| 24 |
★★★ The Thin Line of Reprieve
- with
Emil Mandyczewsky, Ben Sanford
| 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 30th Nov 2018 | |||
This is seriously the best! Pretty much everything I could ask for in a pitch of rock climbing; stemming, laybacking, finger locks, hand jams, bomber rock, and a stunning location. If you claim to enjoy good routes you have absolutely no option but to go down and jump straight on this king line of the Bluies.
My ascent was almost an onsight, I had no real knowledge of any of the moves on the route but I did get some gear beta from Emil and I do think that increased my confidence a fair bit and possibly allowed me to push through some moments of intimidation to get to the next bomber placement. So a flash placing all gear on lead. I also have the benefit of chisel-tip fingers which I think definitely makes a difference on some of the cruxy sections. We only climbed the first (money) pitch as Emil was trying his bolted route next door. Ultimately though, none of that matters because pulling the moves on this is just so much fun and to send in good style was an absolute dream. One of my most memorable climbing experiences. |
|||||||||
2538
points
| 23 |
★★ Ice
- with
Ben Sanford
| 170m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Feb 2021 | |||
Pretty fun little jaunt. Very moderate except for the three or four meters on the second pitch where it is very unmoderate! Pitch one was meh but also fine, pitch two is all time! pitch three wasn't as bad as it looked but was stupidly equipped with two bolts at the start and no more after that. Pitch four is good climbing the whole way and probably more 16 than 18, just a little spicy at the start, and pitch five is mega for an easy crack. It kinda looked to me like the bolts were bash in stainless carrots though which I didn't love and I also think a lot of the pitch lengths are fairly exaggerated. I think 23+ is fair.
|
|||||||||
2528
points
| 28 | ★★★ India - with Harry Kadi | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Dec 2021 | |||
Had an absolute epic on this. Was probably on the route for two hours. It turns out the gear is really quite hard to get in when there isn't a wire at the crux. Took lots of big falls before eventually managing to scarily aid the crux piece in and continue, which still didn't go smoothly with having to back clean and it getting dark, goodness me. Did all moves except the crux one. Really emptied the tank. Proper.
|
|||||||||
2527
points
| 28 | ★★ Yesterday Direct - with Harry Kadi, Christopher Glastonbury | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Dec 2021 | |||
Totally my style. Lots of gastons and difficult standing. Climbed it in three overlapping sections between the two shots including the final crux into the top half of Yesterday which was some great retro flash pumping action. One I would happily come back for.
|
|||||||||
point
| 28 | ★★★ Life Without Meaning (Project Paul #2) - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 40m, 11 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Three goes with Paul. Best effort nearly took me to the lie down slot. Has probably the best jump in the mountains, or at least the best one at a moderate grade. Psyched to come back!
|
|||||||||
2504
points
| 24 | ★★★ Common Knowledge - with lee cossey | 35m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th May 2022 | |||
Joyful. Taking out Lee’s gear, not that there was much of it.
|
|||||||||
2504
points
| 21 | ★★★ Comic Relief - with Christopher Glastonbury | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th May 2022 | |||
One of the better things I’ve ever done. Don’t know what this nonsense about a poorly protected start is.
|
|||||||||
2502
points
| 24 | ★★ Drama Class - with Christopher Glastonbury, Chloe Fu | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 2nd May 2022 | |||
Not really harder than curtain call but with poorer gear and less nice everything else too.
|
|||||||||
2497
points
| 25 |
★★★ Tjuringa P1
- with
Christopher Glastonbury
1
25
25m
| 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th May 2022 | |||
I think I went up three times on TR after my flash go, two of them clean. Thanks Chris for sorting out an anchor etc.
|
|||||||||
2492
points
| 22 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Dave Cook
| 130m | Bungonia Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | |||
Some fairly severe slabbing to start the day, and I found the beginning of pitch 1 nails!! Fairly pleasant after that and linking pitch 3 and 4 was fun.
|
|||||||||
2490
points
| 24 |
★★★ Grasshopper
- with
Harry Kadi, Ben Sanford
| 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th May 2020 | |||
Man I am psyched to tick this off. Honestly just an absolute delight. Warmed up on TR and then sent it packing first lead shot placing all the traddy bits. On the grade, I think this is easier, if a little spicier, than The Thin Line of Reprieve, which in my opinion is benchmark 24 for Bluies trad. If anyone wants logistics beta, let me know.
|
|||||||||
2488
points
| 24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Dave Cook
| 160m, 55 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Aug 2020 | |||
What a wondrous fall free day out in the sun as my introduction to Bungonia. We finished up The Other End of Evolution which was well good, and i’m so glad we swapped our leading pattern for that so I could have a rest because I don’t think I would’ve gotten through it had i climbed straight through from pitch 6! Drove down to Jindabyne with Dad afterwards and then went skiing the next morning. Primo.
|
|||||||||
2466
points
| 23 | ★★★ Static - with Harry Kadi | 35m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Dec 2018 | |||
Soft and way over bolted but totally great. Literally all I need to be content in life is stemming corners with a touch of laybacking thrown in for good measure..
|
|||||||||
2463
points
| 24 ~24 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
Harry Kadi, Joe Faulkner
| 130m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Jan 2024 | |||
2459
points
| 28 | ★★★ No Space in Time - with Gerry Narkowicz, Match | 20m, 7 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 28th Apr 2021 | |||
Warm up and to put Gerry's rope back on it.
|
|||||||||
2458
points
| 28 | ★★★ No Space in Time - with Lucas C, Paul Frothy Thomson | 20m, 7 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | |||
A long lap for photos straight after Passchendaele. I was fkn spent!
|
|||||||||
2456
points
| 28 | ★★★ No Space in Time - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 20m, 7 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 16th Apr 2021 | |||
Punted 😢 (x3)
|
|||||||||
2455
points
| 28 | ★★★ No Space in Time - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 20m, 7 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 15th Apr 2021 | |||
Got to the crux on my first go after a warm but had made a lot of mistakes and was far too pumped. (x3)
|
|||||||||
2454
points
| 28 | ★★★ No Space in Time - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 20m, 7 | Bare Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||
I’m enamoured.
|
|||||||||
2450
points
| 22 | ★★★ Northern Exposure - with Harry Kadi | 30m, 6 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Jan 2021 | |||
Mega! Those pockets at the top man oh man. Dreamy.
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 23 | ★★★ Epic Journey - with Harry Kadi | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Jul 2019 | |||
Funky Arapiles-esque face climbing. Would get 21 there.
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 21 |
★★★ Quits
- with
Heath Black, Paul Frothy Thomson
| 65m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Nov 2021 | |||
GO DO THIS CLIMB!! One of the best things I have done in a good while. Pretty proper on the R getting off the belay and then through the hardest climbing and it has been a while since I've downwards campused on a 21 (twice?!) but, ya know, Piddo is just a bit like that sometimes. I didn't know where to go at the top (because I didn't read a route description) so instead of cruising laconically up the grade nothing arete I opted to embrace the shuffle and traversed all the way around the corner to Solomon with no gear to avoid rope drag and finished up that which was, um, exciting. A thankyou is here owed to Christopher Glastonbury for inspiring me to do as much sideways climbing as possible at every opportunity. Building the belay on top involved some brilliant full value trad fuckery including rapping back down on my end of the lead rope and building a belay with my favourite #1 BD hex which I enjoyed immensely. You could also belay in the Solomon corner if you brought more than a single rack. Truly adventure trad at its finest AND most convenient. I say it again, go do this climb!!
|
|||||||||
2447
points
| 27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Swena Zheng, Chloe Fu | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 3rd May 2022 | |||
Unreal. Felt like a proper quest in the dark. Didn’t get to the top.
|
|||||||||
2442
points
| 23 |
★★★ Orestes (Orestes P1)
- with
Stephen Varney
| 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Oct 2018 | |||
Such an awesome pitch. It called to me from the camp ground and I couldn't resist its allure. Definitely had to give it some and the calf pump was unbelievable but ultimately it all went to plan and I managed to clip the anchors. Pretty dreamy. Surely this is one of the best lines at Arapiles? Thanks for the belay Steve!
|
|||||||||
2441
points
| 28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Liz Chong, Jack, Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | |||
Sort of figured out the start again, then tore a gaping hole in my finger pulling into the crux. Man I have bad luck on this route.
|
|||||||||
2438
points
| 27 |
★★★ ORANGE JAM (ORANGE JAM P1)
- with
Harry Kadi, Swena Zheng
| 28m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Apr 2022 | |||
I love this climb. Facilitating for Haz + Swens
|
|||||||||
2437
points
| 28 ~27 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Liz Chong, Ro-boat, Riika, Sam | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Feb 2021 | |||
I left gear on it this time so i have to go back. Maybe i’ll finally get it done... (Sort of x2)
|
|||||||||
2433
points
| 25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Harry Kadi | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th May 2020 | |||
In a contender for the most niche ascent category I TR retro flashed this which was a nice little confidence boost. Three clean laps today getting it all sorted. I am very psyched! Watching harry tronsight through the crux was also incredibly impressive!!
|
|||||||||
2433
points
| 25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Harry Kadi | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th May 2020 | |||
Went up with the full double rack and worked out the gear for the most part, it was definitely more pumpy with the weight and trying to fiddle the wrong sized wire into slightly weird placements.
|
|||||||||
2433
points
| 25 | ★★★ Grasshopper - with Harry Kadi | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th May 2020 | |||
Did it placing the rack we had decided on. Just need a few extra medium wires for a couple of placements and should be good to go.
|
|||||||||
2430
points
| 22 | ★★ La Nina - with Ben Sanford | 58m, 1 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Sep 2021 | |||
A brilliant and very worthy mini tradventure. I fell off straight away at the start of pitch one, came down from the first piece of gear, ditched most of the rack because it weighed so much, and fired it off. Such a classic and quite feisty pitch, felt quite 23 honestly. Second pitch was a fun ramble, I broke off an enormous footer though and went for an unexpected and exciting one arm dangle. Pitch three is also great; a novel roof crack to start and pleasant layback to finish. Doubles (or triples!!) to 0.5 and singles above that seemed like a good rack. Wires were helpful too. Barely need any quickdraws, maybe four regular ones and two extenders for the roof on pitch three. You can also take one bolt bracket for the belay at the end of pitch two, but it probably isn't necessary. The bush bash off the top also wasn't too bad, definitely faster than trying to rap and walk out normally.
|
|||||||||
2393
points
| 24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Harry Kadi | 18m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Jul 2019 | |||
Brilliant face climbing but soft at the grade and a little overhyped I think. Threw away my onsight a bit by underestimating just how much small gear I would need. Climbed into the crux well above my gear, realised I had nothing else to put in, got scared, down climbed and sat. I climbed and aided my way to the top after this, gave it a top rope lap to figure out the gear a bit better and then sent it easily placing. Well worth it!
|
|||||||||
2391
points
| 22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter - with Mary Grace Stocker | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Oct 2019 | |||
Everything that I thought would be the crux turned out to not be the crux and vice versa. Silly boy. If only it were longer. The trip endeth.
|
|||||||||
2390
points
| 22 |
FA
★★ The Nameless King
- with
Match
| 100m, 5 | Bare Rock | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Apr 2021 | |||
A wonderful end of trip gift from Ingvar. Named in honour of our camp ground Dark Souls extravaganza the night before. Psyched to have added something to this very special cliff.
|
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2390
points
| 22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy - with Mary Grace Stocker | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||
Henry Barber continues to deliver the goods.
|
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2386
points
| 28 ~27 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Matt Springall | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Aug 2020 | |||
Figured out the last move that I still had to do and then went from the jug below the crux to the top which was cool. Soon soon soon.
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2385
points
| 25 |
★★★ Trojan
- with
Liz Chong, Jack
1
25
21
2
16
25
3
21
40
| 86m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th Apr 2021 | |||
One off the life list. First go today. Fairly good but maybe not as classic as everyone says. I stopped at the first double bolts on pitch one so i could give Liz a better belay and because the next bit is kinda shit. We then climbed from here to the belay at the end of Masada as pitch two and from that belay to the top as pitch three. Seems like a good way to do it and means pitch two is the only average bit of climbing. Good value.
|
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2384
points
| 25 |
★★★ Passchendaele P1
- with
Match
1
25
30m
| 30m | Bare Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Apr 2021 | |||
Warmed up on TR and fell off, then did a second TR to get the gear out and did it clean.
|
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2384
points
| 28 ~27 | ★★★ Pit Fighter | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Aug 2020 | |||
Managed to sort out the reachy top crux move in between rain showers. Much easier to figure out when you aren't taking a big whip every time. Psyched!
|
|||||||||
2375
points
| 25 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
Paul Frothy Thomson
| 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Feb 2018 | |||
The best multi I have ever done and one that keeps with my trend of achieving climbing 'firsts' in intimidating locations. I onsighted the first pitch which was rather gripping but probably quite easy at the grade, giving me my first Trad 23 and then, after belaying Paul's ultra solid send, almost almost scraped the crux pitch clean on second. I slipped off essentially the last move of the crux right at the end of the pitch despite feeling quite solid. After one false start I pulled on and mantled up to the belay. This pitch is all time!! featuring unlikely steep climbing at about grade 22 all the way until the intimidating and awesome final crux sequence; The best!! I then led and onsighted the third pitch (having told Paul I wanted to lead the layback that Ben Cossey is climbing in the TNF ad in the guidebook), a significantly harder 23 than the first pitch but ultra rad and super demanding for the section of real climbing before it turns into a ramble to the belay. At this point my head was pretty gone and I was feeling exhausted so Paul said he was happy to lead the last two pitches, an offer I gratefully accepted and I managed both of these clean on second with a major fight to keep it together on the final pitch as my lack of day-endurance took its toll and I found myself pumped stupid.
All up it is probably one of the best days of climbing to be had in the Bluies and I would highly recommend it to anyone who can muster the psych!!! Get on it! |
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2371
points
| 25 | ★★ Mini Mayhem - with Harry Kadi | 9m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jan 2018 | |||
Knocked this little number over this afternoon after flying into Launceston and charging up the hill with our stupidly heavy packs. Did three top rope laps to figure it out, two of them clean and then sent it on my first lead lap. Super fun but just not long enough to be classic or solid at the grade.
|
|||||||||
2364
points
| 28 | ★★ The Bell's Line - with lee cossey, Ben Sanford, kamil | 60m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Jun 2020 | |||
Just the 23 bit to the stance with one fall working it out. Outstanding line and climbing but the rock is a bit crunchy. Psyched to come back for the business at some point.
|
|||||||||
2363
points
| 22 | ★★★ Black Light - with Harry Kadi, Simmo, Julie Pon, Meef | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jul 2019 | |||
I was in a very odd head space when i climbed this and it became quite a surreal experience where I would drop out of the moment, only to come back to reality and notice that I was in fact still climbing. Had barely any gear for the first half which added to the strangeness of it all.
|
|||||||||
2363
points
| 22 | ★★★ Child in Time - with Harry Kadi, Adam, Jules | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 11th Jul 2019 | |||
One of the best crack routes I've ever done. Brilliant from the techy start to the very end.
|
|||||||||
2360
points
| 24 | ★★★ Dirty Dancing - with Jack, Harry Kadi, Lewis, Liz Chong | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | |||
2316
points
| 22 |
★★ Genghis Khan
- with
Heath Black
3
35
lead by
Will Vidler
4
25
lead by
Heath Black
| 170m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Feb 2019 | |||
Fear with Neil.
Fantastic trad multi with no bolts until the end of pitch four and only a few after that. Pitch one was way less offensive than it looked from the ground with pretty good rock and gear. Pitch two was a wild adventure up a weird, vegetated ramp feature but also with pretty good rock and gear. Had one fairly solid move at the grade. Pitch three was fairly terrifying, especially getting established on the wall with no real gear for 5m or so. After that it's a really interesting corner. I ran out of gear at the top and ended up building a weird belay after climbing too high and having to retreat because the stance I'd hoped to belay from had very limited gear options. I'm not sure where this pitch is actually supposed to finish so I guess its a bit of choose your own adventure. Pitch four has some cool tricky moves up the continuation of the corner that eats wires and then the traverse is fairly straight forward but on pretty rad frictionless rock. The bolts here appear to be pretty good too. You can belay a fair way left and up around the arete off of a single carrot and some gear. The final pitch was definitely the highlight and featured some memorable sequences above memorable runouts with memorably shit gear. The pitons that protect the hardest moves really don't inspire confidence. It is a super fun shallow, fused corner though with a handful of technical and powerful moves that are really great. After you leave that corner and step left it gets nice and juggy for the top out. All up a great day out with plenty of shade and a surprisingly small amount of crying. |
|||||||||
2309
points
| 24 | ★★ Horrorscope - with David Tan | 16m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 5th Oct 2018 | |||
Probably should've flashed it but i botched the sequence a bit and powered out. Went easily second shot. A pretty fun punchy number with a nice touch of history but not quite an Arapiles classic.
|
|||||||||
2296
points
| 26 | ★★ Curveball | 55m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Feb 2022 | |||
A small play on rope solo but mostly just sussing the gear and line (all of which is scary and confusing). I shall return to put some more work into it. Very gritstone, apparently the last person who went ground up had to be rescued from a ledge after they said enough is enough.
|
|||||||||
2289
points
| 23 |
★★★ Blast Off
- with
Ben Sanford
| 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Jul 2021 | |||
All this talk about how this is really only 19 and we are all just fucking soft inspired me to come back and finish it off. Rapped in, top roped the business to warm up, then rapped to the ground and did both pitches. The weather was truly superb and it turns out it's all actually pretty easy when you know where the foot holds are (especially now that the offwidth is clean). I also did a sick layback transition to hand jam flowz move above gear which pleased me greatly. I like rock climbing.
|
|||||||||
2286
points
| 22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home - with Harry Kadi | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | |||
Really brilliant and a bit easier than the other 22s. I was however slightly disappointed to find that everything about this that was hard was on flaring hand jams and that all the finger locks are mega jugs. Super interesting and varied crack movement for a short climb.
|
|||||||||
2280
points
| 28 | ★★★ Rough Trade - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Sep 2019 | |||
Man oh man. Should have gone but I punted off a relatively easy move just after the no hands rest and then went straight to the top. Silly boy! Even though this route suits me quite perfectly, I don't think it is 28. (3)
|
|||||||||
2277
points
| 28 | ★★★ Rough Trade - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Aug 2019 | |||
Real fkn good! This route was made for me by the rock gods. Paul nearly accidentally sent it as the sun set and the wall lit up with the most amazing glow. It was seriously surreal. Keen as a bean.
|
|||||||||
2275
points
| 22 | ★★★ On Edge - with Harry Kadi, Julie Pon, Rene Provis | 28m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Sep 2018 | |||
Didn't feel too hard but I was definitely gripped! Rad climb.
|
|||||||||
2248
points
| 21 | ★★★ The Kraken - with Harry Kadi, Liz Chong | 40m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||
Very wet and not very hard.
|
|||||||||
2228
points
| 24 | ★★ Waylander - with Harry Kadi, Dave Cook | 38m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Dec 2018 | |||
I must not fear.
Fear is the mind-killer.
Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration.
I will face my fear.
I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path.
Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.
|
|||||||||
point
| 28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Mar 2019 | |||
Absolutely wild. Climbed about a third of it in an epic dog session and did most of those moves. From where we got to, the rest of the crack needs a pretty good clean to de-crozzle and remove a chunk of choss but after that it will be good to go. Possibly the hardest route I've ever tried. Go get on it people!!
|
|||||||||
2219
points
| 21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra - with Mary Grace Stocker | 48m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | |||
Brilliant technical pitch up a very classy line. The top became a little exciting in the rain.
|
|||||||||
2214
points
| 21 | ★★★ Kachoong - with Joe Faulkner | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||
Joe flashed. It was rad.
|
|||||||||
2208
points
| 18 | ★★★ Harlequin - with Jayden Bennett | 28m | Freycinet National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Mar 2024 | |||
In december 2017 (over six years ago!!) I down climbed very quickly from about ten metres up this route (read: decked from ten metres with my dad belaying…) and didn’t weight the rope. I am therefore very happy to complete this many year long quest to onsight Harelquin with my brain still in tact. I also used my one helmet token for the year, seemed reasonable.
|
|||||||||
2207
points
| 24 | ★★★ Oranges Poranges - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 45m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | |||
Couldn’t pull my head together for a lead go but i got it on second for the warm up. I need a break from all this scary shit. Radical to belay Paul’s send though
|
|||||||||
2204
points
| 22 | FA ★★ Play With Madness - with Heath Black | 56m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th May 2020 | |||
A quality addition to the Medlow Bath trad obscurity collection. Nice rock and fairly airy with some pretty spectacular moves above gear. Worth a lap for sure.
|
|||||||||
2199
points
| 22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up - with Harry Kadi | 35m, 8 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Jan 2018 | |||
Somehow held it together through the mega flash pump. Such a lovely, classy climb that builds till the end. Stoked to have done this.
|
|||||||||
2199
points
| 25 | ★★ Ride Like the Wind Direct Finish - with Christopher Glastonbury | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th May 2022 | |||
Adds a little bit but that little bit is choss and doesn’t change the grade.
|
|||||||||
2197
points
| 25 |
★★★ Tjuringa (Tjuringa P1)
- with
Christopher Glastonbury
| 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th May 2022 | |||
Had a pretty good go at flashing this but came off somewhere in the middle. Pretty pleased I tried it from the ground though.
|
|||||||||
2196
points
| 22 | ★★★ Double Dozen - with Harry Kadi | 11m | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th Jan 2018 | |||
This was great, if only it were longer. Super fun battle oozing my way up the finger jams with a crowd of tourists cheering me on. Good route!
|
|||||||||
2195
points
| 28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Emil Mandyczewsky, Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Dec 2018 | |||
Hard climb is hard. Made some progress on the main crux and suffered on the opening boulder. Conveniently removed some pieces from a few key holds that I had accidentally left in. This route is the coolest.
|