Mega classic, mega fun and the guide book has it right, this bad boy is sustained! Don't expect any rest from the time you clip the second draw till you're clipping the anchors.
Tried wrong beta for 20 minutes, then watched a video. Got to second undercling with that, but could not figure out feet/something for the throw off the rail to the first sidepull. Cool climb tho
Having trouble stepping through into the rose move. Couldn't get to it today. Tried the dyno at the end, couldn't stick either. Maybe in cooler weather? (it's 30)
Maybe not as good as the original indirect line but cool as fuck regardless. Need more left bicep power and general levitation abilities to surf out to the right rail then the top shouldn't be tooooooo bad.
So Alex takes us to this crazy V13 he was gonna try (dyno from sidepull crimps with little smears for feet to a one pad sharp edge) and I saw a few guys trying this classic testpiece. Decided to try it for the sake of exercising that day and surprised myself- I got a lot further than I expected, and I am sure I can actually do this boulder if I spend a couple of days on it! Made me realize that progression really has happened
Another massive improvement! First move still feels incredibly hard, need more bicep power to lock off the undercling. Managed to complete the problem one move in though, hopes are high