Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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V11 | La Belette | Buttermilks | Thu 2nd Jul 2015 | ||||||
V10 | ★★★ Evilution To the Lip | Buttermilks | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | ||||||
V9 | Slabalicious(low) | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V9 | Lewis' Lunge Sds. | Rumbling Bald | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V9 | ★★ I am a Beautiful Man Sit Start | Sherwin Plateau | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Jul 2015 | |||||
V9 | Cartwheel | Adirondacks | Fri 6th May 2022 | ||||||
V9 | ★★ starburst | 6m | Lake Belton | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
nearly made it through crux twice from start.
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V9 | Shark Tooth | Red Rock | Fri 2nd Dec 2022 | ||||||
V9 | ★★★ Relic | Joshua Tree National Park | Wed 25th Jan 2023 | ||||||
V8 | ★ Thugs and Bitches | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V8 | Slush Puppy(low) | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V8 | Crystal Tips | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ No Substance - with Maria, Morgan, Alex, and owners of an angry dog. | Joe's Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Oct 2014 | |||||
So Alex takes us to this crazy V13 he was gonna try (dyno from sidepull crimps with little smears for feet to a one pad sharp edge) and I saw a few guys trying this classic testpiece. Decided to try it for the sake of exercising that day and surprised myself- I got a lot further than I expected, and I am sure I can actually do this boulder if I spend a couple of days on it! Made me realize that progression really has happened
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V8 | ★★★ Midnight Lightning | 8m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 10th May 2018 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ The Impossible Problem | Smuggler's Notch State Park | Fri 4th Oct 2019 | ||||||
V8 | ★★ Red House Extension (Red House) | 3m | Little Rock City | Thu 10th Oct 2019 | |||||
Another massive improvement! First move still feels incredibly hard, need more bicep power to lock off the undercling. Managed to complete the problem one move in though, hopes are high
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V8 | Dopeman | Pawtuckaway State Park | Mon 11th Nov 2019 | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ Space | 4m | Little Rock City | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||||
V8 | ★★ Choctaw Sundial | Rocktown | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Dec 2020 | |||||
Sharp but awesome movement!
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V8 | ★★ Grizzly Peak Traverse | Grizzly Peak Boulders | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jul 2020 | |||||
Left to right, failing on the last move
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V8 | Who Needs Huecos | 10m | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 11th Sep 2021 | |||||
Realistically no chance of sending.
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V8 | Who Needs Huecos | 10m | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||||
Also surprisingly ok. Did the first two moves and was close on the dyno. Hard moves in between remain.
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V8 | Who Needs Huecos | 10m | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sun 21st Nov 2021 | |||||
Working dyno
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V8 | Karate Super Chop | Adirondacks | Sat 7th May 2022 | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ The Fridge Left | 5m | Leavenworth | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Busted | Leavenworth | Wed 8th Jun 2022 | ||||||
V8 | ★★★ Israil Direct | St. George | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Nov 2023 | |||||
Maybe not as good as the original indirect line but cool as fuck regardless. Need more left bicep power and general levitation abilities to surf out to the right rail then the top shouldn't be tooooooo bad.
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V7 | ★★ Slabalicious | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Great White | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
So close
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V7 | Lo-oser | Horse Pens 40 | Thu 19th May 2011 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Spyro Gyro | Little Rock City | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | |||||
Able to comfortable use the holds and pull in before the big move! Unfortunately unable to use the high feet with my knee injury.
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V7 | The Swell - with Beatrice, Max | Lynn Woods | Tue 12th Nov 2019 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Deception | 4m | Little Rock City | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | |||||
V7 | The Comet | Rocktown | Sat 12th Oct 2019 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Dec 2019 | ||||
Bottom beta is super smooth, but I can't pull with the left knee, will have to give this climb a rest for a month or two
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V7 | ★★★ Celestial Mechanics | 4m | Little Rock City | Sun 15th Dec 2019 | |||||
V7 | ★★ Drug Test Policy | Rocktown | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Dec 2019 | |||||
Very cool climb. But saving it for the end of the day was not a wise move.
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V7 | Paparazzi | Rocktown | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | ||||||
V8 V7 | ★★★ Blind Spot | 3m | Little Rock City | Tue 13th Oct 2020 | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Oct 2020 | ||||
Tickling the final jug XD
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V7 | ★★★ Celestial Mechanics | 4m | Little Rock City | Fri 27th Nov 2020 | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Kaya | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Feb 2021 | |||||
V7 | ★★★ 7 11 Stand | Cumberland | Sat 3rd Apr 2021 | ||||||
Day 2. One move left to unlock!
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V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Thu 23rd Sep 2021 | ||||
V7 | Jacked Bagel | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Oct 2021 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Right Wing | Little Rock City | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | ||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ★ Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | ||||
Worked for a couple hours. Feels surprisingly ok for a V7.
Done all the moves now, just need to link them up.
With good beta the sit start is much better than I felt initially. Didn't do the most obvious start. Instead, use worse feet to the left. Rock weight over right hand and make first move statically. Suspect that sticking the first move of New Direction will be the crux for me. |
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V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ★ Good | Sun 21st Nov 2021 | ||||
New more efficient beta: don't go to second undercling pinch. From the first, drop left knee on rail and go to axe head.
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V7 | Iron Cross Sit Start | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 4th Dec 2021 | ||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ★ Good | Sun 5th Dec 2021 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd May 2022 | ||||
V7 | Goat Boy | Leavenworth | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | ||||||
V7 | Premium Coffee | Leavenworth | Tue 7th Jun 2022 | ||||||
V7 | ★★ Center Overhangatang | 4m | Hyalite Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Aug 2022 | ||||
Thought I was on ‘Standard Overhangatang SDS’… Got super close to sending, just ran out of juice to finish it.
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V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ★ Good | Fri 11th Nov 2022 | ||||
First few moves went easily. Couldn't make the move to the axe head. From the axe head to the end went no problem.
Feel much stronger than last year. |
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V7 | Old Times | Red Rock | Fri 2nd Dec 2022 | ||||||
V7 | Bubble Butt | Red Rock | Sun 4th Dec 2022 | ||||||
V7 | Raether Problem | Red Rock | Mon 5th Dec 2022 | ||||||
V7 | ★★★ Tennessee Thong | 3m | Little Rock City | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | ||||
V7 | ★★★ The Pinch | 4m | Little Rock City | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | |||||
V7 | ★★ Cinderella | 2m | Little Rock City | Fri 16th Dec 2022 | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Orange Julius | Joshua Tree National Park | Thu 2nd Feb 2023 | ||||||
TRied and tried an couldn't reach. Maybe with a little more dynamic beta or leaning more.
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V7 | All The Way | Happy Valley And The Hideaway | Sat 28th Oct 2023 | ||||||
Close on the opening dyno
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V7 | Swamp Thing | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | ||||||
Trying out some of the moves as a potential future project. Most moves feel too hard for me today, but would be fun otherwise.
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V7 | ★★★ The Swan — 5 attempts | 6m | St. George | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 29th Jan 2024 | ||||
Fell off the last move 3 times, soik'd
Mega fun, feeling pretty doable. |
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V7 ~V6 | ★ Atlas — 9 attempts | Pawtuckaway State Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Mar 2024 | |||||
The last move just wouldn't go...
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V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen - with Max, Nathan, Xi, Katja | 6m | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | |||||
Fell from the top hold after the dyno plenty of times.
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V6 | ★★★ Fame | Little Rock City | Thu 28th Nov 2019 | ||||||
V6 | Standard Deviation | 3m | Rocktown | Sat 12th Oct 2019 | |||||
V6 | ★★ Nose Candy | Rocktown | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Oct 2020 | |||||
Beta figured out, now I just have to do it!
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V6 | ★★ Nose Candy | Rocktown | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Dec 2020 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Fury | 3m | Little Rock City | Sat 6th Feb 2021 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Inspired by an idiot | Rocktown | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Jan 2021 | |||||
V6 | ★★ Rump to Jump | 5m | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 9th Oct 2021 | |||||
Most of the moves feel doable.
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V6 | ★★★ Kingpin | Little Rock City | Wed 27th Oct 2021 | ||||||
V6 | ★★ Left Wing | Little Rock City | Wed 3rd Nov 2021 | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ The Guillotine | 6m | Rocktown | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | ||||
Damn close. Tape your fingers kids...
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V6 | ★★★ Warm Up Dyno | 3m | Salt Lake City | Wed 8th Jun 2022 | |||||
Just about latched the hold. Will be back for a last ditch attempt tomorrow
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V6 | ★★★ Obesity | Clearcut | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||||
Having trouble stepping through into the rose move. Couldn't get to it today. Tried the dyno at the end, couldn't stick either. Maybe in cooler weather? (it's 30)
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V6 | ★★ Sobriosity | 3m | 5 Star Boulder | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | ||||
Tried wrong beta for 20 minutes, then watched a video. Got to second undercling with that, but could not figure out feet/something for the throw off the rail to the first sidepull. Cool climb tho
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V6 | ★★★ White Horse | 4m | Hyalite Canyon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Aug 2022 | ||||
Only missing the big move to the lip at the top. Need to come back for this stellar line.
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V6 | ★★★ Ab Master | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | ||||||
Feels doable.
The first few moves are easy. Moving to the axe head took a few attempts. Will be challenging to do that and have power remaining for the next move. |
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V6 Hard | ★★ Inspired by an Idiot | Rocktown | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Nov 2022 | |||||
no send, learned a lot
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V6 - 8 ~V7 | ★★★ The Angel Dyno | Red Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 29th Nov 2022 | |||||
V6 - 8 ~V7 | ★★★ The Angel Dyno | Red Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Dec 2022 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Inspired by an idiot | Rocktown | ★★★ Classic | Mon 19th Dec 2022 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Scatterbrain | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | Wed 18th Jan 2023 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Ab Master | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | ||||||
Better than last time, but didn't manage the crux from the ground yet.
There are two options for the crux:
Wasn't feeling great. Dehydration? Knee still bothering me? Stopped after losing a lot of skin. |
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V6 | ★★ Beached Whale | 2m | Hammond Pond | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||||
Did the first move!
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V6 | ★★★ Child Prodigy | Rumney | Wed 19th Apr 2023 | ||||||
V6/7 | Bongo (fury) | 8m | Boulder | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | |||||
V6/7 | Bongo (fury) | 8m | Boulder | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | |||||
V6/7 | Bongo (fury) | 8m | Boulder | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | |||||
V6 ~V7 | ★★ Rump to Jump | 5m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 2 attempts | 6m | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | |||||
V6 | Hats Off | Lincoln Woods State Park | Sat 11th Nov 2023 | ||||||
Tried to pull on... Very sloper. Looks hard
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V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Nov 2023 | ||||
This felt like really good progress. The only move I didn't do was the dyno to the jug.
Feels like it could go this season if the weather holds out.. |