Routes as sport in Illawarra and Shoalhaven

The arete at the bottom of the walk down gully. Starts with short diagonal handcrack then traverse right to arête.

Well bolted sport route up clean grey streak behind tree. Finish right to shared lower-off.

Starts at landmark detached right facing flake. Climb flake and mantle on to ledge, clip high RB then up orange streak past bolts to top.

As per Jugs, but chicken out left at move to RB and then to lower off.

Nice start which turns into desperate crimping the higher you go. Start up face just right of monster flake then take right tending line of RBs. Shared Lower off with NN. Starts slightly right of AtS

Link-up of Jugs into Naiden?

2m right of Jugs at right end of orange patch at base of cliff. Easy start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top. This appears to be a bolted version of the old top-rope problem End of an Era.

Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right.

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RBAON. Starts just right of BTS.

Climb starts right next to tree. This climb is excellent and it easy for the grade.

Climb 1.5 meters next to large gum tree.

Line of bolts left of TDGO. Narrow belay ledge so stick clip first bolt! Start on small pockets next to TDGO.

One of the best routes here. Starts 20m right of In Lieu of the Gym. Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through horizontal breaks.

Filthy, contrived and retro-bolts an established route. What a winner! Climb North Crack for one RB then put your blinkers on and step right onto the face right of the crack using shallow diagonal seam crack in the middle. This route needs a good brushing - or maybe just a good chopping.

Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.

Some of the best rock at this cliff and a quality route. Starts at far left end of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave.

Technical with good rests. Start just left of The Greatest and Best rock climb etc. Up seam, right and over bulge by bolt.

Line of bolts left of Chain-saw. Crimps, jugs, toe-jams... Got them all!!

Start at the left side of the small cave. wanders a bit. 1st and 3rd RB tough!

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 3 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amongst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach. Needs a clean and a rebolt.

Flake in the cave, reach to jug out over the lip left, heel hook then crimp, mantle, grovel, whatever works to get up...

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb...

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB.

Half way down the access trail, continue East beyond the ramp at the end of the orange rope to the next wall.

Wall to the right of Snakes And Ladders. Hardish move in the middle, jugs to anchors just over the lip of the roof.

The Masters Edge of Stonehaven. Gritstone like arete with fabulous tenuous arete swinging. Finishes at the anchors just over the lip of the roof.

Little corner right of More Sandy Than Kevin. Harder than it looks. Finishes up to the left on the common anchors just over the lip of the roof.

Wall right of Kevin

Start on the wall 3 meters left of the crack of Daniel. After the difficult section bridge and jam the crack for a couple of moves before heading left to the anchors.

Just left of Soul Searching. Classic face climb that keeps you on your toes. For the full 21 tick stay out of the big cracks out left and right.

A well bolted 18m warmup with fun moves and good holds most of the way,easiest to step left into the crack for a move; crag warmup.

UP SS or HOC, up arete for 2 bolts, then right up HOC for the easy finish.

Start right of 'Soul Searching'. Take care clipping the second bolt, then up to the vertical seam (crux).

Hardly any more difficult than the original left side finish. Do the crux of 'High On Crack' then move right. Follow the three bolts up to finish on the same anchors as High On Crack.

Amazingly contrived compression climbing. As long as you have your left hand on the crimps in the seam you are doing the route. Tricky start common to all three climbs in this area, Head straight up to the bolt in the wall just right of the seam. This bolt is a little hard to clip. Start compression moves here between the big holds on the offset feature on the right and the little crimps on the left. Four compression moves brings you to the exit and the jugs to the top.

The obvious offset flake just left of the arete (Brazilian Butt Lift). Shares the same desperate start and many of the same holds as the climbs either side. It's the obvious line so it's not contrived, great climbing so who cares.

This is the left side of the arete climbed by the hot dog routes. Five meters right of High on Crack at the common start. Up and right heading over to the arete. Follow the arete up sometimes using holds on the left side and sometimes on the right, to clip the common anchors with the line to the left.

Direct start to Hotdog Water.

The line of tight squeeze directly up from Hotdog Power. A nice bit of continuous intensity climbing up the flake until a no hands rest spoils it all. Top is easier than it first appears. Start at Hotdog Power and continue straight up the line of bolts. For a much better start do the easier less knee destroying Hotdog Water start and traverse in for the same grade.

Start up 'Milk Was a Bad Choice' and shank left at first bolt, slowly making your way out to the aerate, and up.

Line on bolts up the centre. Shares the first bolt with Hotdog Water.

Line of bolts right of Milk Was A Bad Choice. Try it in the summer heat for the full effect. Moderate crux mid way up the wall then a camping ledge to rest before the thin finish.

Fifth line of bolts right from the arete of Hotdog Water. Thin wall climbing with a number of cruxy sequences. For the feel of the first ascent and a struggle at the grade climb the last two bolts on their left side rather than the pikers variant which uses the holds unearthed for the climb Womb Raider.

Line of bolts to the right of Chiffre Apres Chiffre. Common start & first bolt with Chiffre Apres Chiffre. Head to the right a little and up to the ledge squashed into the corner at the top. Watch out for the gum tree.

Start as for Shutdown Funk but follow the left line of bolts. Then up the left side of the arete above. Can be used as an alternate start to Shutdown Funk to eliminate the need to carry a rack of wigglies. If you are finding it hard for the grade then either; (1) Get stronger or (2) Grow taller.

Wall just left of The Shield, up slab and through 2 cool roofs.

Juggiest route at Stonehaven? now extended an extra 2 bolts at the same grade. Up steep grey wall about 15m R of Shutdown Funk. Up to roof, right and up. Over ledge and up to high anchor out right.

Up flake just right of The Shield, right through roof and up arete to ledge. Left to climb right of the last bolt of The Shield.

Hanging arete left of hanging corner. Everything is hanging on this one.

Same start area as GFY but a little to the left. Up generally solid rock to hanging corner. There has been a number of rockfalls on this route, dislodging vital foot holds. Grade may be harder.

A little contrived but offers some really good climbing if you embrace the game for the movement and not the tick. Hanging arete right of hanging corner, its all just hanging in there. Start as for GFY, the 2nd bolt is just to keep your rope heading in the right direction. Head up to undercling and layaway at roof. Climb onto the arete and head up to the obvious jug. Use the left crack for a resting hold if you must, but stick to the arete. At the jug swap sides to the right and do the crux of GFY heading to the lower offs of this route. Needs a road map. Most people will pull off the climb and stand in the left corner for a rest but they will miss the fun.

Juggy Choss for a couple of bolts, then awesomeness to the top on great rock. Embrace the techo arête.

Straight forward start to thin wall on slimpers. Shared 1st bolt with TT, then move leftwards.

Big reaches to big holds. Funky pockets.

Sustained and much better finish to 'The Day Before The Day After Tomorrow'. At triangle hold keep going straight up and left a little. Clean as, and all ticked up. Get on it !!

Line of bolts 3 meters right of TT. When you get the triangle hold to chest height, head right to corner and up the line of shrubs. Alternatively from the triangle hold keep going up to the next break before going right into the corner. Two short hard sections with jugs leading to and from each.

The crack right of the obvious corner. Get up it before it regrows. Hardly a hand jam in sight. Plenty of trad pro available if you get a feeling of revulsion clipping bolts up a crack and need to revert to your primal trad placing self.

Incredible face to the right of the obvious crack splitting the wall. Crag classic test piece 20.

Obvious Flake to the left of Better Than A Poke In The Eye.

Straight up the middle of offset flake ,Nice start to large pockets, Gets harder the higher you go, Bump up RH crack to mantle top,Enjoy the send/view from shelf.

Start 3 meters right of Better Than a Poke in the Eye on the rounded arete. One technical move that may be difficult to spot if not chalked, the rest of the climb is easy jugging. Will tend to silt up after rain.

Right hand side of the arete. Starting at the same holds as Mud Monkey. Climb the wall just in from corner. A bit easier than Mud Monkey and a little more straight forward. Interesting move sequence to finish.

A couple of metres right of the unclimbed corner, hardish start under a small roof then awesome head wall up top. Stick clip the first bolt.

AAron paid for the bolts, much appreciated mate.

Right of 'Krazy Kanguruh' Start off ledge formed by the top of a block at the bottom of the cliff. Step in right and up the line of juggy holds to head wall. At the head wall move right when standing on the big round ledge and do a common move with 'Fraken Toasters' on the right. Traverse back to the left of the seam and follow juggy flake to top anchors. A little soft for the grade.

Wall to the right of Bolts By AAron. Starts out of the left side of choss scoop or off the block on the left. Put the sandy stuff out of mind cos you are going to climb some of the best head wall at Stonehaven if you can get to it.

Wall and arete left of MooserWirt. Start on the right side of the ledge under scoopy sand pit, 2 meters left of MooserWirt. A good finishing section makes up for the juggy bottom half.

This apres ski gang bang is an extension to MooserWirt by going a little higher and topping out where the rock meets grunge.

Fixed Hangers to double Ring lower off under little roof.

The wall 1.5 meters right of MooserWirt. Climb the wall, at the top use the corner for a more consistent grade.

Face to the right of Little Wank Club. Not as hard as Coprophagia but more continuous. Long reach to anchors.

Freshly cleaned route to the RHS of MooserWirt. Nice Mid section , Clip DRB from top of flake , Not much doing above that for the grade / toil.

Line of bolts to the right of Coprophagia. Sustained crimp-fest, climbs like an Elvis Tribute , Last hold above DRB.

Start three meters right of 2 Crimps 1 Cup near the base of the crack. Head up wall to small roof pull this on good holds then the jugs just keep getting bigger to the anchors below the death blocks.

Awesome line up through the mini cave at the bottom, follow the flake feature into the corner up under the top roof. Then onto the face for the finally. Keep out of the crack way out left at the top.. Make sure you hang on. Classic!

Start on the same holds as for Warrior of Light then head right onto the face over the bulge. A nice long adventure with some thought provoking moves. Enjoy the view at the top.

The left most line of bolts starting from the ledge in the cave.

Link-up. Start up 'Who's the Clown' but go straight up at the 3rd bolt into 'Greta Thunberg', skipping the cruxxy start moves of GT

Blast through the juggy boulder problem in the corner of the cave and shoot up the headwall on some of the best holds at the crag. Might be 21.

Thin head wall left of WTC of which is shares the starting 4 bolts, then directly up the awesome thin head wall.

Start at left of cave on ledge. Heave on to the wall, a biggish move at the 2nd bolt. Move up and rightish past a fixed draw (crossing 'Greta Thunberg'). Keep going on finger jugs to gain the arête, follow this up to anchors.

Double roof direct start to any of the routes above (Cerebral capacity, Hill project ect). Clip first bolt on Greta Thurnberg then right and over roof.

Huge roof on crazy holds! Start in cave 8m left of Skibumski (same cave as You're the Clown), stick clip high right ring, up to it then left, either thru little roof or up arete, then through big easy roof (clip last bolt way out left in roof as it reduces drag) and into corner and right arete, finish on right. When cleaning, you can hang on the last bolt in the big roof and unclip the previous 2. But easiest for someone to second and clean.

3 crux wonder. Start up 3 Rooves to Glory then straight up corner (short draw or screwgate on 3rd bolt to keep rope away from rock) and corner/roof above (ring in roof to keep rope out of crack). Lurch around lip and finish up Skibumski

Start at the right side of the cave. Put up with the slightly chossy first half and all the rest ledges for a great top section. Follow line up to where the roof juts out and layback your way to glory. Nice easy slab to finish which shares some of the holds with Apres Ski to the right.

About 25m past MooserWirt. Obvious line of bolts. Use holds out left in Skibumski before the top.

Line between Apres Ski on the left and Zakuski on the right. Start up Apres Ski and continue straight up. A thin slabby crux that may be easier if you can reach past the way bad holds to the bad holds above. Be prepared to stand on some pretty tiny foot holds at the crux.

Wall to the right of Apres Ski, and just left of the crack. Nice clean slabbing.

Nice flake system. Up corner on left to ledge (beware loose block that we couldn't budge) then up flakes on left.

Start where you scramble up to the rungs. Up arete to cave, inside into womb and thrutch out through weird birthing move out of cave. Leave a short draw on inside cave and rope drag isn't an issue. Then thin crux.

Left route on the wall. Choose your own adventure at the last bolt before the anchors.

Thin !!

Line of bolts immediately above the access rungs to the ledge. Two meters left of Coeur de Pardon. Easy up to the overlaps where some thin finger shredding is required to gain the flake on the wall and jugs to the top.

A link-up of consistent grade throughout. Start as per DDLM, then when it gets though keep right at the crimps and step onto CDP.

Clean orange face just left of the corner above the access rungs to the ledge. Finishes at anchors in the cave. Interesting moves to get you standing on the ledge then it gives up.

Orange corner just above the access rungs. Multiple ways to climb the crux section so if it spits you off try looking for an alternate technique that suits your style.

Arete Left of Va Ou ... Easier climbing than the crack but not quite a full grade easier. Think of it as soft for the grade and send it.

Crack line on the wall left of Little Flakey. Easy climbing until the little offset corner, a couple of harder moves and its back to jugging until the top.

Squeeze job face right of Va Ou... . Most definitely a couple of grades easier than the crack to the left, but hard for a 19 still. Climb the face past the first bolt using the left hand layaway to the break of pox holes. Then using the bottom of the flaring crack and a couple of side pulls scurry onto the ledge. From the ledge use the crack for your feet & the mono for the left hand and then the jugs to the top. Easier top than the climb beside it. Or just climb anywhere you like, wandering about for a joyous experience. Try climbing the right hand choss corner to pass the tricky bits or go left into the climb beside, makes no difference.