Routes as trad in Australian Capital Territory

A few good moves down low deteriorate to the usual dirt and choss. Up the groove right of Sewer Side past 3 bolts (crux at second) then up (wires and friends) and left to join Sewer Side at the top.

Steeper than the average slab, bigger than most climbs twice its length, with a fun roof. Start in the right hand of two slabby corners right of the river. Delicately up onto the arete past bolts to the roof. Crank across right to clip the peg (a 3/4 Friend and #4 rock back it up) then heelhook out left and slap blind (die laughing) for the jug above the lip. Follow the bolts to the birdshit and up the final steep headwall past another bolt to the double bolt belay and rap station. A two rope rap avoids the gruesome scramble up loose dirt to the top.

Another Bosch marvel. Takes the left-hand slabby corner left of Sewer Side. Up the slabby corner and arete past four bolts to the overhang. Reach up and clip a bolt, then a technical pull-through to a short crack (2 1/2 Friend and #3 rock). Up the wall above, right at first then back left, past two more bolts to the alcove in the BIG roof. Small wires protect the final clip, then bridge up and launch out left over the roof to a ledge and rap station. Two ropes to the ground.

Horrendously technical pocket climbing with more bolts than decent holds. Start on the brink, where the surf meets the slabs. Clip the bolt to avoid a watery death. Pull leftwards out over the waves to a sloping foothold, then cruise up past two more bolts. A small detour left, then relentless pocket pulling to the double bolt belay and rap chain.

More of the same steep pockets. Start as for Lure of the Sewer. Climb past two bolts, then lean left and clip a bolt below the little overlap. Move left keeping your feet below the overlap (crux) to a good pocket, then a jug and a bolt, of cours. Up directly past two more rawldrive surprises then back right to the rap stance on Lure of the Sewer.

A big route threading the major roofs. Quite sustained with brilliant moves through the top overhang. Double ropes, 11 draws and a #2 Friend are the essential items. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp. Left 5m as for Rising Damp, then up into the little V-groove. Follow this up and take the diagonal line to the roof (5 bolts to here). A #2 Friend protects the clip above, then seize the suspect mega-block and pull awkwardly through to good jugs and a bolt on the wall above (good rest on the guano ledge out left). Cross the wall rightwards (crux) to the diagonal crack and another bolt, find the high jug and gut loose left through the final roof onto a sloping ledge. Up and easily right past a final bolt to the rap station at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

Fine pocket climbing down low and awkward groping past loose blocks in the first overhang. Takes a rightwards line crossing Gutter Crimes at the first roof; double ropes as usual.

1. 15m As for Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Move right from the belay and climb the wall on deep pockets past 3 bolts, sharing the odd move with Sewer Rat. This will land you under the first roof on Gutter Crimes. Clip the bolt in the groove above and traverse right past another bolt and the suspect blocks, then long reaches right (crux) to big jugs, pockets and a bolt. Continue up past another bolt then some leftwards moves through the final roof to the last bolt on Gutter Crimes. Move right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A devious climb which weaves around some big overhangs. Double ropes and some long slings will save major rope drag.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Up to the first bolt on Mission Brown, then right and up the corner past 3 more bolts to the hanging groove on Gutter Crimes. Up this (#2 Friend below the roof and a long sling to the bolt) and left onto the guano ledge [there's a two finger pocket in the roof left of Gutter Crimes groove for anyone who wants to take the route straight through...]. Clip another bolt (long sling) then out to the arete. Up past a high bolt (crux) to a thin crack (#1 rock) then up and right to the belay on Mission Brown.

3. 10m Stroll right to the rap stance above Doppelwandiger.

Overhangs like the outside of a toilet bowl but twice as slick. A Canberra sea-cliff classic taking the bulging groove in the middle of the wall. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 25m Fun moves through the roof past a couple of bolts, then into the groove above. Follow it past 3 more bolts to where it dies, then an action packed sequence past another bolt takes you up the right wall to the big roof (2 1/2 Friend). Traverse right to a two bolt stance.

3. 10m Right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A three pitch excursion out over the tide and the turds, which also provides access to routes on the left-hand side of the cliff. Piranha carp await the hapless leader or second taking a tumble on this one.

1. 15m Traverse left from the first bolt on Lure of the Sewer. Two more bolts then a #3 rock, then left and up to the two bolt stance.

2. 15m Downclimb and keep traversing just above the water to a bolt. Left up the slab (small wires) and around the arete to another bolt. Cross the alcove (#1 1/2 Friend) then up left to a high stance (2 bolts).

3. 25m Up to a bolt then pull left through the roof. Up the slab (lots of wires) to where it steepens, then up the wall above (crux) trending slightly leftwards all the way past another 3 bolts. Double bolt belay on the ledge above. A 3m death scramble leads to the top (stay roped up).

Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN.

An easy 5m crack for quick free solo (or trad, if falling in the water isn't your thing) access to Shit Line, Prairie Dog & Hung Like A Sewer Rat.

Easier than scrambling back up, around, and down the cliff.

Vegetated and well protected.

Climb slabby cracks towards the orange roof. Trend right to go around the arete. Rappel down Burial.

Left hand trad crack

Follow the main crack to the break as for Dwarf Tossing, then the right hand crack to use DTDSCAAT's anchor

Couple of average moves out on the right arete up to DBB. No pro and no fun. Use the block or don't, whatever.

Follow the prominent hand sized crack 2 meters right of bolted line The Bummer. Traditional gear protects you until you hit a sole bolt as you move through the face climbs of the head wall.

MH: Note that the bolt has no hangar or nut as of 2021. I'm also not convinced it is on this line - seems a bit far to the right, closer to Heat and Dust? A direct finish above the crack looks feasible (but currently dirty) and would come up about 1 meter right of the anchor bolts on Vandalous Behaviour.

Some natural pro required - take small wires and cames. Trends leftward up to a walk off. Watch yourself on the slippery stuff up top!

facing the main boulder its the obvious hand crack going up the slab

the arete just right of the hand crack

Start 4m right of Fizz. Enjoyable climbing up cracks and ledges to the anchor bolts.

Start 1m right of Soda Pop. Climb the left-facing corner for a couple of metres then straight up the cracks.

Start 1m right of Lemonade. Straight up the crack. The crux is getting into the wide crack at the start, and is poorly protected. A #3 camalot may help if you can place it, otherwise probably better to top-rope this one. Alternative start: up Fizz then step left into the wide crack.

Start 3m right of Peroxide Power. Climb the shallow chimney, then cracks and grooves.

Start 5m right of Baby Arete at the twin shallow cracks. Climb the steep wall to the anchor bolts. Technical and sustained for 10m.

The easiest climb at White Rocks. Start about 2m right of the gully. Climb the arete, generally on the right side. The climbing finishes after about 11m on a ledge below a fixed runner that gives a great view of climbers struggling on The Roof. Top-rope using anchors above The Roof with the climber's rope threaded through the fixed runner.

In many ways shorter than its 13 metres would lead you to believe, this route starts up an easy grade 9 arete, then becomes much steeper, moving out over a rooflet with little to do with your feet for the first move or two but paste them to the limestone and grunt your way up.

If you're feeling exceptionally lazy, you can just walk up the grass slope and completely ignore the arete! Bolt recently moved down so it's below, rather than above the crux. Ringbolt lower-offs. Update 2013-08: Lower bolt has had the hanger stolen, sole bolt is at the crux

In many ways harder than The Roof proper, this route starts up the gully then left hand corner (alternatively up the left arete, then step around to gain the roof). Traverse right under the roof, then around the lip to the bolt. More smearing/oppositional holds required, and a little more skill and strength. This is also harder to protect than The Roof, as the bolt is further out. However, it will take cams, as long as you don't place them where your hands need to be!

Scramble up the gully for about 9m until you are below the roof, then ascend the steep left hand corner exiting left under the roof to join Crossover at the committing step into the groove. Don't make the mistake of trying to directly climb the roof.

As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up.

Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear.

Start on the right side of the tiny tower, about 2m left of Intro. Steep and fingery climbing up cracks and corners to cross Intro at about half height at the base of the wide right-facing corner. Then climb flakes and edges to an awkward and committing step right into the groove below the anchor bolts. Climb the groove to the anchors. Variant: finish up Intro.

Climb the face of the precarious tower, then trend right to surmount the slab and up to the anchor bolts. Don't forget to stand on top of the tower. The crux is getting off the tower onto the slab above.

Variant: start at Crossover and climb the corner crack to join the route at the top of the tower.

Climb the corner crack left of the tiny tower. Crux is at the level of the top of the tower and requires a big reach to good holds and a foot jam. Slightly easier to climb up the wall on the left but you can't avoid the foot jam. #3 and #4 camalots are useful.

Named after the late Florin Tepes who, with Armando, spent many happy hours here introducing youngsters to the wonderful world of climbing.

Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one!

Bolted slab. 3 bolts + wires or cams to ringbolt anchor. Only use the slab and not adjacent rock features. Starting to become very polished with time, and limestone's not the most fun stuff to slab on in the first place! Expect to slip at least once.

Bit of a contrived variant, this is essentially just a few different moves heading up the left side rather than straight up and paradoxically, if you're reasonably strong, probably the safer way to climb The Slab as there's some good oppositional holds.

A pleasant crack starting 1.5 metres left of The Slab. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, and good gear.

Start between Cave Crack and Bee Line. Climb the slab, heading towards a wide crack right of the fixed anchors. Crux is the first 5m of climbing.

Start 1m left of Blinky at the crack. Bridge up past a white patch, then up the slab above to two bolt belay.

Start at the base of Bee Line. Climb leftwards up the blocks then straight up the slab (through the white 'Pac Man' monster), placing runners in Bee Line when needed. Above the small overhang move left or right to the fixed anchors.

Named after Armando's daughter. The crack at the left end of the crag. Start up Inky and move left into the crack near the white rock. Pleasant steep climbing up the crack with great jugs and one hard move near the top.

Head left up the blocks as for Inky and Sally, then step left at the ledge. Funky rightwards diagonal traverse boulder problem, finishing straight over the top of the block. Repeat 100 times and head to Bungonia Gorge.

Traverse the crag from left to right. Difficulty depends entirely on how far you go, and the height at which you climb.

West side of the creek. above the water fall. The most obvious wall with plenty of slingable blocks at the top for a toprope. Go straight up the middle following the obvious crack.

Right of Choss Norris. Straight over the graffiti and up to the shrubbery at the top of the face. A surprisingly enjoyable little problem

on the east side of the creek there is an obvious cliff along this cliff there are many cracks going up. at one of the largest cracks there is a slab (about 3m high) the climb starts here and just takes the crack until you topout. use a tree belay for your second.

starting at the lowest point in the wall begin to make your way up the path of least resistance going up and diagonally right. there are a few section of 0 pro so tread lightly and and take pro where you can.

Start on the block to the left of the huge jug. Grab some jugs out left and mantle some wild overhung terrain using the help of sidepulls and crimps. Try not to pull the whole cliff down on your way up.

If you happened to bring natural pro here's a route to stick it in, finishes up Plan B

Natural gear - very technical.

The big chimney 50m left of Tower of Power. A surprisingly clean and charming adventure.

50m left of Tower of Power, a clean steep wall immediately right of the deep chimney (GGG). One bolt to start then up trending left through steeper terrain on good gear. DBB at the top.

Left of the blunt arete, up past good gear and holds

Up the crack in the middle of the wall. Great gear to a DBB.

A well protected outing on good gear. Start at the lowest point in the buttress, move up easily past the two blocks and then with more difficulty past two bolts to gain the flake. Up this, then traverse left into the right facing corner and on to glory. DBB shared with Rock On.

Start right of Bogong Rising, a little left of the arete. Scramble up to gain the chimney, before finding your way up the path of least resistance above, stepping left to the last bolt of BR, and the anchor

Start up the retrobolted crack left of the descent, ignoring all of the bolts then trend left and follow the weakness up the middle of the face

This climb is on the minicrag to the left (as you look at the main face from across the ford).

Start at the prominent overhanging crack on the left side of the minicrag. Up crack to easier ground tending right towards the top.

Start 3m left of 'In Rem'. Up crack and nice moves through bulge. Scramble to top.

Start 30m left of 'Lex Rei Situs' at a clean jagged crack. Up crack, wall and flakes to the roof. Step left and up.

Start 6m right of 'In Rem' just around a small buttress at a thin crack in groove. Up thin crack to bushes. Up slightly left then finger crack.

Engaging and varied. An auspicious first route at the crag.

Start 10m left of the left most grooove/corner at a tall straight tree close to the cliff. Up flake for 10m then step left and up corner to roof. Left around roof, up groove then blocks to the top

The groove 4m right of 'Lex Rei Situs'. Up groove to ledge, up to next ledge, main groove then step left and up to the top

A classic. Easier if you're tall.

The seam 3m left of the big corner. Follow the seam up to ledge, passing a bolt, then up right to tree.

The line of the cliff. The chimney splitting the wall left of the big corner.

Up corner then chimney to ledge. Cross Carpe Diem and straight up to top.

Ascends the second groove / corner system right of the big corner. Start below two large spikes protruding at 20m. Up small overhang for 5m, trending right, then move left and up to base of corner. Climb this to roof then traverse left and onto ledge. Along ledge then up broken ground to top. May be best to split it into two pitches, belaying at base of corner.

Start in the small alcove at the base of the arete. Hand-traverse right past bolts then pull up onto the wall. Mostly straight up following bolts with occasional gear placements. About half height move onto the arete for a few metres before coming back onto the right wall. Climb short crack on arete to platform. A few moves past a bolt (small nut also possible) to the top.

Gear: metolius no. 2; camalot no. 3; nut no. 5 recommended; plus small-medium nuts, medium cams to make you more comfortable.

Belay: rap-anchor to the left of top-out.

A one move wonder which is quite fun. Start just right of the obvious groove. Cruise up the pocketed wall using wires, to a bulge and a bolt. Boulder past this then up to a flake (2.5 friend) and continue to the top. Thread belay.

Start just left of Gateaux. Up past first bolt (crux) and then left and onto the arete past two more bolts. Move right and up the crack (wires/cams) to the top.

A powerful start. Start three metres left of Three Mules. Crank desperately up the overhang past two bolts (crux) then up past two more bolts. A #3 friend then up the final bulge to a double bolt belay and chains on the left.

Another climb with a steep start that is two metres left of poppin. Up past two bolts to a third. Continue past a flake (wire) to a bolt and jug. Double bolt belay and chains above this.

Start just left of the groove - take a few wires. Up past two bolts to a slab. Move past a third bolt and up to a fourth bolt on the overhand. Pull through (can place a wire on the right) then up and left to a double bolt belay.

Up the short mossy wall in whatever way you please

Directions from ACT granite, starting from the Kazbah area. I suspect this is Wasabi. It seems the most likely, it's in the right area, about the right height, on the other side of Laurel camp road, and drains into the water catchment, If someone can independently have a walk/look around to confirm that'd be great

Things now get worse... Follow the track downhill to an intersection, turn right and keep rallying back uphill through the pines. You may eventually come back out onto the cleared ridgeline to the main access road. Turn back right onto it and continue until nearly back to the original narrow turnoff to the knoll. There is a small group of boulders in the water catchment area on the opposite side of the road to the knoll.

The hand crack amongst these

The widening crack.

Have a rope tied to a tree to abseil off.

Difficult moves to get started before easier terrain. Gear from silver to red cams with a few bigger pieces for the belay.

Thin crack that packs quite a few moves into a small space. Avoid using the granite block behind the start. Takes .3, .2, and .1 BD cams. The final move to the summit is unprotected and on crispy rock so be very careful.

The most obvious, and easiest way to the top. Still, the gear is tricky in the top half, and be very careful of crumbly rock.

Long admired cracked boulder finally put to rest - start with finger locks inside the cave. Big moves (V5-6) over the lip to a pleasant, yet still technical layback

The gently overhanging finger and hand crack on the uphill side of the split boulder.

The gently overhanging off-width on the down hill side of the split boulder.

The flake crack 50m W of the summit boulder.

Off-width 150m NE of summit boulder

Looking back to the main track from the knoll, a group of small boulders could once be seen in a gully. This is the short line. (This climb has not been located in recent years).

Could go as a boulder problem, assuming someone is willing to down-climb it. Up the wide to start then thinning off-width. Possibly too big for most gear.

Climb the block in the corner, then handcrack. Has probably been done before...

The obvious crack line with a wide finish.

In the atrium behind the main climbs. Consider pre-placing your first piece of pro.

The offwidth in the atrium area