Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Palmdale Hells Kitchen | |||||
V2 | Moss Monster
| ||||
The Entrance Baths | |||||
V3 | ★ Gosford Skirt
4 metres left of the iron spike, sit start near corner. Hands and feet must remain on top of roof, exiting right near the metal post. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Iron Rod
2m right of iron bollard is a large 2 handed pocket. Start with straight arm hang from here, feet up above the natural brown line - on steep ground only. Then it's one contrived move to glory. | ||||
V1 | ★ Cloaca
5m right of GS, past cave, up cracked juggy bit, traverse right to nose, keeping feet high, off slab. | 4m | |||
V0 | Haemarroidectomy
Up over nose. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Up the crack
Dirty corner-crack 2m right of H. Set: Brendon Flanagan FA: Brendon Flanagan | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Windward Passage
Other crack 1m right of UTC. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Ages Three and Over
Start as for 'Windward Passage', tending right along the black rock to top out directly above next crack. FA: Dean Howard, 13 Sep 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Annus Horribilis
5m left of sign post. Sit start with hands on nice big sloper. Straight up, taking care that little chicken heads don't break! | ||||
V2 | ★ Perineal Tear
3m left of signpost, sit start to left of crack. Up onto slopers, left a metre then up. | ||||
V0 | ★ The Rear Route
Up thin crack 3m left of sign post. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012 | ||||
V4 | ★ Wealth Gap
Standing start at the lowest jugs and power your way up to the crimp (or all the way to the top) | ||||
Berrys Head The Anvil | |||||
V5 | ★★ Inside Out
Sit start at the base of the cave. Follow the left ledge, then drop down and around through the tunnel, finish at good jug at head height out right. FA: Jason Smith FA: 11 Sep 2021 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Gossy Good Times
Start up the Inside Out ledge, but keep going all the way around the top side of the cave on the honeycomb rock and finish up B3. FA: Jason Smith, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Gossy Ghetto
Sit start at the base of the cave. Out along the lip using the fallen boulder for feet to get started. Keep going around the corner then up and over the blunt nose. The bouldering version of Ghetto Superstar. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
Berrys Head Warm Up Boulder | |||||
V2 | Exfoliate
Start on two scoops on left. Head right on ledge (DON’T USE THE VERY LOOSE FLAKE ABOVE LEDGE IT WILL BREAK OFF) through pockets and up. FA: Scrumpy, 11 Sep 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Sand In My Pocket
Sit start at the foot ledge then head up and left a bit past the round pocket to OK topout FA: Jason Smith, 11 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Sandy Slap
Start as for SIMP, but head straight up FA: Scrumpy, 11 Sep 2021 | ||||
Berrys Head Ironstone Cove | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Pay the Iron Price
Sit start matched on edge in back of cove. Head right on good holds to undercling, slap to arete and find the sneaky heel and toe hooks and head up. FA: Scrumpy, 16 Sep 2021 | ||||
Berrys Head The Back Ally | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Slab of the Week
The obvious line with the big reach up from the sloper and sidepull. Possibly reachy, definitely a bit unique. FA: Jason Smith, 25 Sep 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Ground Hog Day
In the small overhang in front of "Slab of the week" sit start in the hole matched in the seam, make a move to the lip and traverse right a few moves. Then head up and mantle out. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V1 | ★ Mantle piece
Start on scoopy undercling and mantle onto ledge then mantle again. FA: Scrumpy, 19 Sep 2021 | ||||
Ground Hog Day (Direct)
Shared start as GHD, move directly to the lip, gain the side pull with the right and go slightly left and up. Using two slopey crimpers. (Open Proj) | |||||
Berrys Head Missed Opportunity Block | |||||
V3 | ★ The alcove
Sit start at arete left of SC. Up into alcove then exit left. | 3m | |||
V2 | Flaked
Onto Ground Flake just left of Alcove and straight up | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Dishes
Up slab a metre right of Descent, through bulge and kindest top out of the boulder | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Descent
The middle of the north face of the boulder with a rail and ledge at half height | 3m | |||
V1 | The Well
Starts in the hollow formed by a couple of boulders right of Easy Arete passing a pinch. Don’t stray into Descent | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Easy arete
Low start on obvious jugs and straight up. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Derailed
Start up Monorails, then traverse right for a few moves then up, Likely to see some Road Runner style footwork due to lack of feet! FA: Scrumpy | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Monorails
Get established on the underclings then up past the mono and rails to the top FA: Jason Smith, 18 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Left Diagonal
Sit start at left rising diagonal at left end of east face | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Slopers
The blunt arete down hill of easy arete. Start with right hand in 2 finger pocket and up to slippery top out | 3m | |||
V0 | Double mantle
The south west arete right of STD | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Second chance
Start at sloping ironstone rail and right hand side pull, up to jugs then mantle FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Seize the day
Start at obvious good crimp rail, straight up to a couple of crimps then tricky mantle on sloper. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
Berrys Head Ben's Backyard | |||||
V5 | ★★★ A Berry Nice Piece Of Cake
Start on the low jug with a heel out left. Throw up to the slopey block and wrangle your way right around the blunt nose to some better holds then up. FA: Jason Smith, 12 Sep 2021 | 7m | |||
V3 | ★★ Cupcake
Sit start on the good hold then straight up. Only feet on the ramp out left. FA: Scrumpy, 12 Sep 2021 | ||||
V4 | A Berry Nice Piece Of Cake Low
Stay very low heading around the arete. Not sure if this is bum dragging rubbish or not too bad? FA: Jason Smith, 18 Sep 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Indi
The cluster of smaller free-standing boulders in front of ABNPOC. Sit start at the crack. Up then reach left to the arete and up. FA: Jason Smith, 18 Sep 2021 | ||||
V2 | You lichen
Sit start with hands down on far left of good break, up on some good edges then undercling head right to join the top of neighbouring problem FA: 25 Sep 2021 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★★ I Lichen
Same sit start as BNPOC but head straight up. Video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cz0YRlaPpY4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== FA: Samuel Morton, 19 Nov 2023 | ||||
Mossy forest Camber bloc | |||||
V5 | ★★ Pessimistic
Sit start matched on the lowest sloping feature. Quite hard to get started on with poor feet. Climb the slopey arete up to gain the crimp on the centre of the face before throwing out to left arete, then up and over FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
Mossy forest Playdoh bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Honey im home
Sit start matched on sidepull inside the cavelet. Back wall of cave is out for feet after start. Move up and out to slopey pockets and across to right arete using fun heel hooks. Using right arete and thin incut slot, move directly up to undercling pocket then top out.. super fun line FA: Murray Taylor | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Devils tombstone
Start with left hand on arete and right hand down low on undercling edge. Move up to right hand sidepull pocket on the face and use good holds left in the break to gain the lip. Tricky mantle FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
Mossy forest The bunker | |||||
V4 | ★★ Rock 'N' roll-over
Sit start with left hand out wide on pinch and right on thin undercling. Feet must be on the wall NOT on flat rock. Move up to right pinch then using the incut edges on lip to gain the flat lip. Traverse left on lip to the centre of the cave(crackline) then rock over mantle. FA: Murray Taylor | 2m | |||
Mossy forest little pride rock | |||||
V5 | ★★ Simba moyo
Sit start with left hand on jug and right on big sidepull, move out right to incut edge on lip, use left sidepull and bump up right through a couple holds on lip to gain the nose. Use the left and right sides of the buldge to push upto mantle. hard top out FA: Tom Bucknall | 3m | |||
Open proj
Start on slopers on the lip above the right side of the cavelet. Trevers the lip using slopers and pinch to get into the start of simba moyo then finish as this problem. Floor of cave is out for feet. Probably goes around v7- v8 | 4m | ||||
Mossy forest The centrepiece | |||||
★★ Open proj
Stand start on 2 edges in the seem line. Move out left through the bowl into the flake and large left sidepull hueco. Then up through the jugs before big dyno move out left to good edge before the lip, then top out. | 4m | ||||
Toms closed proj
| 4m | ||||
Mossy forest Wave boulder | |||||
Open project
Start on the left slopey edge and side pull, big move upto good jugs then super hard top out on sloping lip | 4m | ||||
Open project 1
Start matched on thin edge, move up to slopey slot then out right to flat crimp then top out over slopey lip | 4m | ||||
Forresters Beach White Tower environs | |||||
V0 | Him Him Him
Sit under left hand ironstone plug and pull on | 2m | |||
V0 | Me Me Me
Sit at right ironstone feature and pull on | 2m | |||
V1 | Just a Friend
Start low on vertical flutings | 3m | |||
V2 | Partners in Crime
Sit at pocket on right, up and traverse left to arete to mantle. Good but undercut foot rail. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Both Ways
Sit under arete then up ironstone rib staying on steep side until the top of arete is reached | 3m | |||
Forresters Beach | |||||
V4 | ★★ If you like pina coladas
Sitstart. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Getting caught in the rain
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | ||||
V2 | ★★ If you’re not into yoga
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Half brained yogi
Start sitting on jug rail and Traverse right with big move into half brain. NA: 22 Oct 2023 | ||||
V6 | ★★ And you have half a brain
Low start matched on jug under boulder, up trending right through small eye and the larger eye above under the lip. Nice V4 when done as a stand start. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/ FA: Tom Hodgson, 17 Feb 2022 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ If you like making love at midnight
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | 4m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★★ You're the lady I've looked for
Cool semi-highball that starts low on the far right side of the bloc. Make your way straight up and slightly left using juggy ledges and then top out. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V1 | In the dunes on the cape
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Nobody`s Poet
Shared start with Write to me and escape but move out right after the drop down move, topping out in the middle of the face. Bring lots of pads to cover the death pit below the topout. FA: Stephen Rawls, 25 Feb 2023 | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Write to me and escape
Crag classic. Start far under cave on two jugs facing the direction of climbing. Fun short V4 when done as a sit start from below the arete. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/ FA: Tom Hodgson, 17 Feb 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Wash my health food down with champagne
Classic bouldering on slopers and edges, top outs are sandy pre prepare!!! FA: 22 Oct 2023 | ||||
V2 | ★★ I'm not much into health food
Start on pocket and sloper. Reachy with an awkward topout. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ I am into champagne
Start just under boulder on two jugs facing out. Topout sketchy - jump off instead. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 17 Feb 2022 | ||||
★★★ Medicinal Joints and champagne extension
From deep in the cave you can link up on horizontal roof climbing into "I'm into champagne" Set: nathaniel glavurdic, 22 Oct 2023 | |||||
V2 | ★ The Gingerbread Man
Start matched on nice big undercling under the lip, then pop up to ledge. Traverse the lip out left staying low and then top out using huge victory jug. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V2 | ★ Bump n Grind
Start as for "The Gingerbread Man" but pop out slighty right before making your way straight up through slopers (cool double bump sequence) and then topping out using huge scoop out the left. Vault the final scoop as you top out for some extra fun! FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V3 | ★★ Staring At The Sea
Sit Start all the way down on the right side arete and traverse left to join Staring At The Sea Direct. FA: Maurício Chino, 25 Feb 2023 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Staring At The Sea Direct
Sit start in the middle of the wall using a left hand side pull crimp and a right hand undercling. Hard first move to the sharp jug then move up left to top out. FA: Maurício Chino, 25 Feb 2023 | 3m | |||
Apex boulders bijou | |||||
V4 | ★★ Murray's bulge
Start matched low in the cave on the big flat edge, bust out to the crimp on the face then out to the lip, use edges on the bulge to get up and mantle, tricky and nipple grazing FA: Murray Taylor, 9 Jul 2022 | 2m | |||
Apex boulders Apex bloc | |||||
V2 | ★★ Rotary club
Start matched on the inside jug rail no feet on lower rock in the cave, come out through good edges then bust up left to mega jug, then up through scoop and top out FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Predator
Start matched as for rotary club,no feet on lower rock, come out through good edges then bust out right to sidepull, then up to sloper on the lip and climb up through sidepulls and edges in the break FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Geebung
Fun climb slopy ledges and pocket,top out to finish FA: Blake Edwards, Joey Avia & Sara Gebicki, 29 Nov 2022 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ The Righteous and the Wicked
Start on jug rail in cave, bottom rock excluded, up and left to mega jug. Traverse left through righteous crimps, huck to sloping rails on the lip then top out direct for a wicked finish. FA: Jarrod Delahunty | 4m | |||
Apex boulders Lilly boulder | |||||
V9/10 | ★★★ Agapanthus
Low start sit/crouch R/H on slopey sidepull L/H on lowest sidepull flake, bump up right through sidepull to gain the flat edge/ bump left up through sidepull flakes then into the stand start FA: Tom Hodgson | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Agapanthus stand
Stand start R/H on flat edge, L/H wide on high sidepull flake, bump R/H to arrow head pinch feature before tricky heel or toe to gain high R/H gaston, gain the jug break then out to lip and mantle FA: Tom Bucknall | 2m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Jasmine
Agapanthus left exit, start as for Agapanthus sit,climb the first half of the problem then match the high left flake, then bust out to the left arete/lip, then up and over left of the nose FA: Tom Bucknall | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Chrysanthemum
Stand start R/H on low sidepull sloper, L/H on crimp, match crimp then bust out left to sloper edge, traverse the lip to the nose then up and mantle. Really nice heel hooking moves FA: Murray Taylor, 7 May 2022 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Hakea
Start as for Callistemon but head directly up into the dish without using the features on the right. Crafty toe hook and Slimpers FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V6 | ★★ Chrysanthemum sit
Sit start R/H on slopey sidepull and L/H low inside on the face (compression) big move up to crimp edge then climb original problem FA: Tom Hodgson | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Callistemon
Stand start R/H as for chrysanthemum on slopey sidepull, L/H under lip, move left hand up to crimp edge then bump R/H up a series of sidepulls and top out through feature FA: Murray Taylor | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Adders Tongue
Sit/crouch start with L/H on undercling and R/H on incut sloper. Hard first move into sloped edge on the right then make your way left to top out around the left side of the feature. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
Apex boulders Spectators | |||||
V0 | ★ Watchman's arete
Start on low edges and climb using only the arete FA: Tom Hodgson | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Garden view
Sit start matched on jug rail, slap the arete and up to lip to topout FA: Tom Hodgson | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Tunnel vision
Sit start L/H on sidepull edge R/H on arete, bump up arete and gain the lip to mantle FA: Tom Hodgson | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Slam dunk
Sit start matched on slopey rail, one move dyno to the lip then mantle FA: Tom Hodgson | 2m | |||
V0- | Bracken
Sit start to slopy top out FA: Blake Edwards | 3m | |||
Apex boulders Toad bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Toadstool
Sit start R/H on sidepull L/H on edge, bust up left to slopey edge on lip then make your way up the slopey bulge FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Amphibian
Start matched on slopey rail at the far left of bloc,traverse the slopey edges into toadstool and finish as this problem FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Frog or Toad
Start as for amphibian, traverse right all the way to the end then move up into the hueco and topout FA: Murray Taylor | 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Frogga
Sit start matched on the low left jug, move up the arete using holds on the face and on the arete FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
Apex boulders Green house | |||||
V5 | ★★ Tree huggers arete
Stand start with R/H on sloper around the arete, L/H pinch on the face, slap and balance your way up the arete FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Green activists
Stand start with L/H on low sidepull, R/H above on gaston edge, get a high left foot and work your way straight up using any holds FA: Murray Taylor | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Ecologist
Stand start with L/H on good edge R/H low on sidepull, big move up to crimps then out right to hollow pocket and up and mantle FA: Murray Taylor | 3m |