Routes as sport in Central Coast

Use the glued-on cheats foothold to lunge up for the 1st clip, then head out a little left, and up. Rap off.

Same start as above, but move right onto arete (staying low), and then up, remaining on arete as much as possible. Rap off.

Up the little crack (2 x med cams), then up through the little cave to the lower offs.

Straight up and a little right, following the crack. Over the top and rap off.

Straight up the crack (2 x med cams) to lower offs

Up and left to the lower offs

Same start as above, but traverse (a bit of rope-drag) out right to the arete, and then up. Last move is a bit off-putting!. Rap off

Balancy start takes you up and out to the right. Move back left again over the block (weird move - right hand in a little pocket and left hand in a side pull while stepping over the block). Then up and right, onto the slab and up. Lower off.

Stay on arete as much as possible (you can also step out to the left if need be) until the face, then up. Lower off

Very balancy, a gift from Jace Piper

Left hand variant of slip and Sue, after clipping second bolt step left towards tree and hanging arete then up and back right to shared anchor. Slinging tree is possible

Start at low arete just right of leaning tree. Slab to single BB

Slightly undercut start at left end of honeycombed area to slab. DBB on block

Undercut scoop with long move to get onto slab. DBB shared with Sabbatical

Just left of corner at right end of undercut honeycomb. Shared anchors with SS

Starts at l crack ( H and A) , trending diagonally right to first FH

Slab between the 2 cracks in middle of wall left of chimney. Starts under flake to FHs. Single U bolt lower off

Starts 7 m right of chimney at short crack which takes trad gear, or solo up to first bolt

The route LEFT of the cave with good steep moves down low and a tricky slab move up high. Bolt plates needed. Head up into lower cave and clip first bolt out left and left out cave and up to single U bolt anchor. 3 carrots on top of route if you need to clean it and can't get to anchor.

Right of the wooden rungs, hard start past 2 bolts to the right of the lower cave. Trend up then right at second higher cave with interesting finish to single U bolt. All carrots.

Starts in cave up hill and left from BB. Traverse diagonally R and up to finish as for BB

Starts 1m R of cave , straight up to U bolt

Line of carrots 2m L of BB, starts under bulge, go right at first bolt then up to finish as for 2.

Tricky move to first carrot just left of low roof and up left of nose following groove and line of carrots

1 Fixed hanger then 2 carrots. Start on L side of nose, then move R onto nose for easy arête climbing

Start R side of nose at fixed hanger. Up passed carrot and L to join Getting Over it at 3rd bolt (carrot), and up.

Starts right of undercut, straight up

Starts 2 m R of undercut column, mossy to shared anchor.

Bridge corner to start, then move out on to face to thin top.

Beautiful arête with very solid rock starting off boulder on top of mini shelf. Mixture of RBs and FHs. Resistance climbing.

Start at the left of the cave, tough first move then traverse out right past 3 more bolts to finish at top of cliff at 1 U bolt.

Up the right end of slab, then traverse left past 4 bolts on slopers and finish on chain with quick link lower off.

5 U bolts to Wiregate loweroff.

Up the slab to arête near top. U-bolt anchors above ledge

The slab a few metres R of The bible says. Straight up the slab to same lower offs.

10mts R of Christian Soldier. Does not look much but worth the effort. Interesting moves above the top bulge. Lower off anchors

the slabby arete R of Holy Cow. Lower off anchors

The little buttress across the gully from Little angel. Tricky start up to the overhanging section and then over this to the top. Anchors on top

The first route on the next wall after Open your eyes. Straight up the wall. The anchors are over the top. Your can walk to the top via the gully before Blind Faith. Fun!

4mts R of Praise the Lord. Hard.

3 mts R of Hallelujah. The L side of the cave which is undercut. Stick clip the first bolt below the bolted and glued on holds in the orange cave, up, trending right, to the roof, then L through the roof to lower off. The crux is off the ground and around the roof at the top

Walk R beyond the cave to the next wall. Daily Bread starts below a L leaning crack (Pearly Gates). Climb past the first two bolts of Pearly Gates and trend acutely L following the diagonally leading U-Bolts. A fun route. Not too hard. Lower off anchor.

Starts at overhand 3 R of Pearly Gates. Move L and follow U-bolts to interesting top move

rather non-descript slab. Next route R of perly gates. Lower offs.

The open book corner. So short and yet so far. Technical smearing. Well worth the effort. 5 rings including the anchors

The slab 20mts to the R of Fall from grace.

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

Start where there is a step up in the cliff through overlap. Go direct ( snakes inhabit pockets to left) through roof then traverse left to quick links.

Slab to the right of green slugs. Finish on anchors of Mr Creosote.

The main arete you come to from the walking trail. P1 20 m Up the slab/arete to chains with disabled quick link. Leave fixed black locking carabiner. P2, contine up through the small roof to top out, anchors back a few metres from edge.

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

Start up meaning of Liff, then continue out roof past 2 more bolts to top out. Back jump to clean.

Starting in the corner left of Green slugs. Up wall to lower off under roof. P2, continue up wall to the right to top out.

The route left of the corner chimney. Hard start to move right up scoops to ledge then off ledge to anchors. Be wary of wasps that sometimes nest in the scoops. Monty can be top roped from the anchors if you don't have trad gear.usually dry in rain.

The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts.

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

The right side of the steep wall. Up face/slab past 2 bolts to slopey moves to get onto head wall.

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

Start as for 97% Mitch Free, but head out the roof through the mono pocket, then countine up the arching overhanging crack to lower off 97%.

Weird and wandery (with some interesting rope-management challenges) but tackles some nutty terrain on the best rock here.

Start as for Rehabilitation, but instead truck left for days to a cave-rest. Then switch gears and throw yourself at the power-endurance headwall, moving left at the last bolt to climb the arete on its right side to gain the anchors.

Thin crimpy climb just right of the main crack line.

Up the thin slab then veering left near the top.

Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Up the top of the hill and about 20m to the right

1m right of DDC

1m right of CH

Through the overhang on the left and up the face. Single ring as anchor or top out and walk back down

Pass the obvious crack and follow the rings to the roof and out up the arete

Left most climb on the wall. Pass the flake clipping carrots and one ring

Through the rings passing right of the 'window'. Apparently a hold has broken around the 3 rd bolt in 2012 making this a little harder and landing the victim with a T 10 #

Line of carrots to the right of Mr. Window

Right most climb on the wall. Through the rings then head right at the top to join the anchors for Master Window

First carrot climb on the left.

2m Right of Daves Dinner

2m right again. Up through the carrots onto the slab and keep going.

2m right. Up the orange streak on carrots

Last line on the slabs before the arete. Arete is not in.

Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Carrot bolts

Step down off platform, 8 m right of DCG, to the right of a white roof, and up wall minding the sundews.

Caution. Carrot and what appears to be a home-made fixed hanger. Anyone with information about this climb (name, grade, FA), including the safety of these bolts?

Caution. Carrot line 5m right of Unknown #1. Anyone with information about this climb (name, grade, FA), including the safety of these bolts?

Caution. Carrot and suspect fixed hanger. Mixed gear? Anyone with information about this climb (name, grade, FA), including the safety of these bolts?

Left at the top of the access trail and follow the base of the cliff for about 50m. All U-bolts. Anyone with knowledge of name, grade and FA or project status please add.

Traverse right at the second bolt and finish on Maiden Voyage anchors.