Routes as sport in Kyrgyzstan

This is a newly bolted line by Amadeus that is in the second area at Chongkurchak. It follows a perfectly vertical wall with very little feature. the first half has 4 bolts and the second half has only one (causing the R rating since if you fall at the 5th bolt you will most likely hit the ground from 10 meters up.)

The crux section is obviously the first half of the climb on the vertical face. The first bolt is quite low to keep the potential for a second line off to the right of the bolts up the arete, but you don't really need to clip it for this climb. There is also the potential to add an extra piece of protection in the tiny finger crack by shoving in a small cam or nut.

This climb is to the left of La Dalle A Didi in the second area at Chongkurchak.

There are 5 bolts to clip plus the potential for placing a small cam or nut between bolts 2 and 3. You may also feel like you need to protect the second half with more than just the one bolt that is there. There are places to put some trad gear in though so no worries. Good anchors at the top as well.

There were originally 4 bolts and then an anchor, but the first bolt has been chopped. This makes the climb a bit R rated as the second bolt (now the first bolt) is at least 6 metres from the ground and is not at a great spot for clipping. There is, however, a small crack where you could stick in a nut about 4 metres from the start. The crux is halfway up the climb at the (now) second bolt.

2nd from the left at area 2

Another simple route that is a great warmup. Starts with a bunch of face holds, then you get a slightly smaller than the fist crack that you can jam up, and then it is back to easy face holds again.

Simple climb. It may be a bit wet though in some spots.

Another good simple route that may also be sketchy due to loose rock as mentioned in Route 3.

This is a nice little climb going up a solid prow. Holds are often smaller and less obvious than most of the other climbs in this area. Good route though!

A nice easy climb to warm up on. This is also one of the only climbs here that you can protect with finger sized trad gear (and a couple larger pieces).

The start is good and hard as it follows fairly similarly the start of a 6c to the right of it. Further up the climb the holds become quite small and there is a good amount of technical slab climbing/smearing. The top mellows out and then there are your anchors!

Another good route to bring beginners to. Almost like walking up a cracked staircase.

Far left bolted line, proper slab route. We stayed slightly right of the bolts.

2nd bolted line on the left. Slaby and techy face along a thin crack to the right of the bolts. Climb with care as there are no bolts between the second and the belay station.

Start on the bolted line below the large roof. Nice techy slab until big roof. Overcome the roof with difficulty via the corner. Then more slab with a nice undercling. Continue carefully until belay station on the left.

Far right bolted line on the face. Easier than it looks. Nice face climbing with good holds on the left. Overcome first roof directly. Continue up face to second roof and climb over via the right side. Continue up straight than slightly left below final roof, belay station on the upper roof (6c alternative, climb roof directly with reachy moves to top and sweet heel hook).

Bolted line just left of the waterfall. Begin on a crack with nice lay backing moves until you reach a large niche, move up the niche and onto the face with some fun technical moves past a small ledge. Rope Belay at the top.