Routes as trad in Tafelberg

Climb up a series of vertical cracks a few meters to the left of the North-West Pillar.

This route is on the face to the right of the North-West Pillar. Straight up the technical face just left of a vertical recess that runs about a third the way up the cliff, and about 3m right of the corner formed by the pillar. At the narrow ledge follow a crack and steeper climbing above.

This is the arete that is visible on the skyline as you approach from Spout Cave, and is a few meters right of The Tabhomi Gun Show. Start directly below the sharp edge halfway up. Climb dead straight up the arête with much satisfaction.

Climb the central series of vertical breaks on the buttress. Near the top, step right to a foot ledge then through the tiny overlap to the top.

Start just right of Familia Roach and head up and right to follow the left side of a groove on the right of the buttress. Near the top, make a traverse right at a finger rail and then up to the top.

Start at the cairn and keep left but stay on the face, no point in walking up the broken ledge. Negotiate the crack in the open book and traverse right and up to the same stance as the Red Pillar Route. Take some small nuts and cams for the crack.

A technical one pitch climb for a cold day. Start at the cairn and climb more or less straight up via some small crimps and side pulls. Stance on a comfy ledge under a roof. One or 2 airy steps out the left make it possible to gain the face above, top out after 50m. The second pitch was probably climbed before as part of one of the old routes there.

Proud line with committing crux. Climbs the centre of the face to the right of the Red Pillar

Starts to the left of Thimble up an easy break, then follows the centre of the wall to the right of Edge of Existence.

1. 10m (15) Pull up into the easy break that is above a lower overhang with a large boulder inside it. At the ledge step meters left to below the wall between the arête and the easy ground on Thimble.

2. 40m (21) Follow a series of vertical crack up the wall to an overlap. Step right and pull up into a thin crack. At the finger-rail head left and then straight up the wall

Walk all the way left past 'Rooibosch Sector' to the "North-West Pillar" Start 50 m left of 'Pedestal Corner'

1. [12] 10m

   Climb the delicate face up to a large ledge. Move left 5 m.

2. [11] 25m

   Climb the face for 5m then move right and up to a recess. Stance on top of a pinnacle.

3. [14] 15m

   Climb up, then diagonally right towards a dirty looking recess. Left of the recess is a technical face, move left onto this and up to stance on a ledge. Scramble diagonally right to a large block below an overhang.

4. [15] 10m

   Start 3 m left of the block, one or two moves and then a strenuous pull to slap for the shelf, moving right over the small nose. Continue diagonally right to a large stance.

5. [12] 25m

   Climb the last break diagonally right to the top.

From the first ledge above the ground, follow the large left facing brown corner, to the right of Water Karma. At the top of the corner step right and then straight to the top.

Climb the vague arête that forms the right side of the right wall of Cocoa corner. Beware- there is a large loose block at the top of the arête. Avoid this by traversing right a bit below it and climb the face just to the right to the top.

Start several meters to the right of Pedestal Corner. Climb the features on the part of the wall where it makes a blunt, 90° turn.

Start to the right of Pedestal Face from a rock ledge. Take the easy break that leads directly to the honeycomb section of rock seen from below. Climb just left of this and straight to the top

Start: At the crack left of the rap point.

1. [17] 10m

   Climb the crack to the ledge.

2. [18] 25m

   Climb up to a ledge, then up another face to a ledge with a large flat resting boulder. Do a long move up then head diagonally left. U will be above the first overlap with another one above you. Keep going to stance on a cramped ledge.

3. [15] 15m

   Head diagonally right up the obvious break, stance at the next rap point.

4. [11] 15m

   Climb the Arête, stance at the tat.

The (very) direct version of Rooibosch. Named after a brand of Rooibos Chai tea.

1. 55 m (24) Start up Rooibosch. At the small roof above where Rooibosch heads left, pull through into the thin crack. Continue straight up through the next crack and ever upwards to a neat belay ledge.

2. 20 m (18) Climb the thin recess just left of a blunt, gearless prow.

1. [18] 40m

   Start in the crack right of 'Rooibosch' climb up to a ledge with a resting block, This is where 'Rooibosch' goes left, climb to the right then weave through 2 overlaps to build a hanging stance.

2. [19] 20m

   Climb upwards aiming for a overhang with a break. Continue to the ledge. Choose a top out pitch or access the rap station a few meters left.

On the right of the Rooibosch wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route skirts this roof on the left then heads straight up and through another roof at about 2/3 height.

1. 20 m (20) About 30m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a short, slightly left-facing, orange wall with three vertical cracks. Climb these cracks to the huge ledge below the massive roof (the same ledge from which Rooibosch starts).

2. 50 m (18) Start about 3m left of the big crack where Tea Bag starts. Climb a thin crack in a short, orange face to a small roof. Pull through and move up until you can rail right past a chockstone in the big crack at foot level and around the corner. Pull up and continue up until you can rail right again across the face to a prominent notch on the skyline. Head up and left towards a layback corner and up to a large ledge.

3. 25 m (21) Above the ledge is a roof with a rail that heads out and right and into a shallow, rightward tending recess capped by a small roof. Follow the rail and pull up into the recess. Follow it to pass the roof on the right and continue up some cracks to the top.

Approach: You can do the first couple of pitches of 'Thread the Needle' to access the ledge to the start of the route. Start: On the right of the ledge is a large roof with a chimney below, start a few meters left of this

1. [12] 18m

   Climb the corner to a ledge below a dark crack in the overhang. A very long move gets you into a chimney, climb past the chockstone in the crack and finish on a platform.

2. [12] 20m

   Climb down and right using a good finger rail to exit onto a large platform out right. Climb a bulge and then a grey recess to a ledge below an orange face. Walk right to the easy chimneys. Climb these to a ledge at the side of a large block, which looks like it is propping/ leaning up the cliff.

3. [15] 26m

   Climb the block that holds up the cliff and then left onto a small pointy platform, climb technically on the left then up to a narrow ledge. This is where u can start the easier variation on the break out left. Climb the tech slab in front/ right. Note, the move off this ledge is very hard if u are short and only protect-able halfway thru the crux, use a cheater stone if necessary. Using tricky moves tend up and right to a technical finger/ hand crack. After the crack move left and through a bulge to finish.

On the right of the Rooibosch wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route climbs up to the middle of this roof then rails out spectacularly rightwards to pass it before continuing via another roof higher up to the top.

1. 25 m (15) About 50m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a slightly overhanging, orange recess directly below a prominent, leftward protruding prow on the massive roof above. Climb this recess to the huge ledge (the same ledge from which Rooibosch starts).

2. 30 m (25) Move across the ledge to the base of the wall directly below the middle of the huge roof. Climb the crack leading up to the notch in the first level of roof. Pull through the notch to reach the big rail under the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto the face above using great pockets and a good crack. Move up to the next rail then head left until able to pull up to a small ledge. Make a semi-hanging stance using small cams. A superb and wild pitch. Gear: A #4 and a #3 Camalot and long slings are useful for the rail and some small cams for the stance.

3. 30 m (17) Climb straight up to a big ledge. Continue up to the next big ledge.

4. 25 m (14) Move up ~6m on the right of the big roof to the second roof. Rail left until the roof ends. Stand up above the roof, move left, and up to the top.

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of 'Ice Tea')

1. [19] 25m

   Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge.

2. [23] 30m

   An undercut start off of a big horn (there used to be two horns). Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and climb the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right and carry on straight up to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.

3. [21] 25m

   Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.

4. [18] 50m

   Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

A varied route just right of 'Amarula' with a stunning arete pitch and contender for the best-designed belay stance on the mountain.

1. [22] 15m

   Start 5m right of 'Amarula' on top of some blocks. Up easily to a large rail below a roof. Move left and pull through the roof onto a small platform. Head straight up the smooth recess to a good ledge.

2. [25] 20m

   Head up and left to a wide rail below an overhanging nose. On the left of the nose, there is a narrow crack (tiny cam required). Pull up into the higher vertical crack and crank to a horizontal rail. Step right around the nose and up a short layback to a thin rail. Step back left across the nose and then up a series of laybacks to a fantastic stance above the prow. Gear: Very small cam (eg. C3 000) to protect the first move onto the nose.

3. [21] 45m

   Climb up and right into a bottomless chimney. Continue up and step right onto a large split block. Tackle the steep jam crack (with an off-width to the right). Move right around the corner onto a ledge and straight up to the huge ledge.

4. [16] 20m

   Step off a wobbly block and climb a golden, polished arete (just right of a gulley) and then easy slabs to the top. This is probably shared with 'Ice Tea'.

Start about 30m right of 'Welbedacht Crack' on top of a massive block with a slant on top.

1. [18] 25m

   From the cairn head up the right-hand face slightly diagonally left to a small ceiling. Traverse right on the handrail. When possible climb ±2-4m up to a ledge with a right-angled open book. **Note: The original RD mentions climbing down to a small cave, and inserting the left leg as a lever to do a 'weird' move. We could not find (missed) this.

2. [15] 40m

   Climb the right-angled open book into a break then to a ledge. Once at the ledge shift slightly left to an obvious break. Climb this and move right at the overhang (don't use the perfect hand jam rail) rather climb up and left into the chimney, and continue up to the ledge.

3. [11] 20m

   Walk left to beneath where the roof peters out. You should be a couple of meters right of the last pitch of 'Cosy Corner' Start with a hard pull and continue up the break to the top.

Consistent moderate climbing around Lemon.

1. [19] 20m

   Start as for Mothers. Climb diagonally up the right-hand face to the roof. Pull through at a crack about 1m left of the end of the roof. Traverse 4m left on the platform to stance below a blunt arete.

2. [18] 45m

   Head up and left to the center of the brown face. Head up and aim for the bottomless, left-facing, V-shaped groove. Squeeze up this (the 'Lemon' Squeeze) and step left onto the face as soon as possible. Climb up, through a small roof, and follow good holds to a small ledge.

3. [18] 30m

   Head up a few meters to below a large, left-facing prow. Climb up the short face right of this to a series of vertical cracks. Straight to the top.

A steep, demanding route crossing 'Mothers'. The top pitch offers superb climbing in a wild position.

1. [18] 45m

   Start 5m left of 'Cosy Corner'. Climb up to a large post box slot a few meters up. Move slightly up and right to another large horizontal slot. From here move diagonally up and left to a ledge below a brown face. Head straight up this face to a ledge.

2. [25] 30m

   Climb the bulging face to a ledge below and right of a big roof. Step left and make some hard moves to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left until able to pull past the left side of the roof. Head straight up following large layback features to a wide ledge.

3. [26] 25m

   Start up a break about 5m left of a large left tending layback crack system. Climb straight up the break to the roof. Rail about 2m right until able to make some strenuous pulls through the roof (about 1m left of the narrowest point) into the corner above. Move up and right to below the final roof. Pull up and left using layback holds to establish on the face above. Continue straight up to the top.

A line between 'Mothers' and 'Cosy Corner'. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.

1. [17] 25m

   Start 1m left of 'Cosy Corner' and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.

2. [20] 45m

   Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing around 2m to the right and then straight up the featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right-hand wall of the huge corner.

3. [17] 15m

   The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.

4. [18] 30m

   Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.

Find the start of 'Maiden's Prayer'. This can be reached by traversing on a high rock band from the 'Main Wall' which has some tricky and exposed steps and then opens up onto a broader ledge with vegetation. The other option is to traverse on the vegetation level quite far beyond the climb then easily back track up onto the same above mentioned level. From that ledge go up an additional level to a broad rock platform via a short scramble up a grey mini buttress to the start of 'Mothers' and 'Cozy Corner' Start right of 'Mothers' in the next large recessed break.

*RD update, book is confusing and line incorrect.

1. [13] 15m

   Start 6 m left of the bottom of the recess. Climb diagonally right to stance below a recess.

2. [14] 25m

   Climb up for a little bit then at the face access a narrow ledge and traverse right to the access the nose (not really apparent, until you are on it.) Climb the right side of the nose on easy rock up to a dassie ledge to stance.

3. [10] 15m

   Move left on the dassie ledge to access the break, climb up to blocks and over to access a small cave with a prominent thread point above.

4. [17] 30m

   Climb out of the cave awkwardly to access the face out right. Climb all the way to the overhang, move left when forced, onto a ledge. Walk 40 m left past a bulging face to access a red twisted recess.

5. [14] 25m

   Climb the recess till able to move right, continue to the top.

Pitch 2 offers a wild, pumpy, and exposed roof, while pitch 3 has excellent climbing on some vertical cracks.

1. 45 m (19) Start 3m right of Cosy Corner Direct below a large layback crack. Climb the layback, then step left to a short brown arete above the Cosy Corner Direct crack. Climb this, then easy rock to a dark brown face. Climb either crack in the centre of the face and stance at a blocky corner below the large roof system above and left.

2. 45 m (23) Move diagonally up and left on excellent rails heading towards the large horn (good sling point) in grey rock below the pocketed roof. Pull through the roof into the short peapod feature and onto the arete, and then head straight up on great holds to the huge ledge.

3. 30 m (21) Start as for Make Tea Not War in the left corner of the undercut face broken by several vertical cracks. Move right at the first horizontal rail, then diagonally up right staying below the level of MTNW. Pull up into a steep corner just right of a large, grey fin and left of a ledge. At the small overlap, move left and up to a rail under a narrow roof. Go right around the roof and then straight up the face to the top.

To the right of Cosy Corner is a large roof at about 15m height. The route stays left of this roof and heads for the wonderful, juggy face just above and left of the roof. Named after Comet Lovejoy Q2 which made a spectacularly unspectacular appearance near Orion at the time.

1. 50 m (21) Start ~15m right of Cosy Corner Direct (CCD), a few metres left of the overhanging prow. Climb a vague recess with a distinct, white handhold at about 2m. Step right onto a small corner shelf then reach left and up to some laybacks. Move up and right to the beautiful, juggy, undercut face. Climb this, through a small, juggy roof near the top, to a large ledge.

2. 30 m (24) Move 5m left to below two large, leftward pointing flakes in the roof. Jam strenuously in the right, narrower crack (some hand tape is useful) until able to turn the roof. Continue straight up the right-hand side of the face above to another big ledge below a huge block.

3. 35 m (21) Start as for CCD off the top of the huge block. A tricky, poorly protected start to reach a crack. Then move right and climb to the right of CCD to the top.

Varied pitches and a tad committing on Pitch 1. Starts in the big corner left of Maidens Prayer.

1. 25 m (22) Climb the corner, with a wide crack at the back, to a small ledge. Pull up and left to a thin left tending crack. Just past a tiny roof, a vertical crack branches off. Follow this to a wide rail. Continue up and left aiming for the left side of the lowest section of the large roof. Head out along the side of the roof to ride the white surfboard (which gongs!). From here pull steeply up and left to where the angle eases. Continue up another 5m to a small stance.

2. 30 m (14) Head easily up to the large ledge, tending slightly right most of the way. Stance about 6m left of a vague arete on Sly and Slinky

3. 25 m (23) Pull up to a wide rail below a small roof about 3m up. Traverse left until the roof peters out. Pull up to a large oval hole (with an undercling inside). Thin, difficult moves past a small flake lead to a steep crack. Head up the crack and then traverse left at a thin rail to the break in main roof running across the wall. Head straight up to the next ledge. Walk about 10m left to below the boulder where Cosy Corner Direct starts.

4. 30 m (20) Pull up onto a little platform. A tricky move right gains a jam crack in a tube-like feature. Continue up and slightly right to the summit.

A variety pack on increasing difficulty from arête to crack to corner topped with an airy victory lap.

Start as for Maiden’s Prayer

1. 40m (13) Do the first few moves of Maiden’s Prayer and then traverse right, under the Iron Maiden arête to an orange wall. Go up the easy break on the left to the first wide break. Traverse right to an easy grey recess facing to the left. Climb up to the ledge and right to the base of the brown arête.

2. 30m (17) Follow the arête and then straight up to the ledge, and stance below the left side of the large roof above.

3. 20m (21) Start as for Maiden’s Prayer pitch 4, by climbing over blocks into the corner. At the left facing flare above, send your tentacles right along the rail and swing out to the right to gain the lovely vertical crack in the face above the roof. Follow this until it ends and then slightly right to the ledge. Walk right over some boulders to the base of the large, white open-book capped by a roof.

4. 20 m (22) Climb straight up the strenuous crack to the roof. Without inking yourself, traverse right under the roof to a fist crack. Step further right under a groove to a hand crack that leads to a neat, airy stance. Note: Danger Shrew pitch 4 (21) does the same first move but then traverses right along the base of the right wall into a crack system that passes the roof on the right.

5. 20 m (15) Make an airy traverse left to a saddle feature over the middle of the roof. Straight up to the top.

Start just right of Baboon Speak on the boulder 5m right of Maiden's Prayer.

Pitch 1. 20 m (19) Pull through the roof at the small corner and head up and right to the right-hand end of a ledge below a grey, knobbly feature which is directly below an arete 15m up. Pitch 2. 30 m (23) Climb the knobbly feature, then straight up an orange face and through a bulge to a hand crack 1m left of the arete. Continue up the crack, move right across the arete, and follow a short recess to a spacious platform above the arete. Pitch 3. 15 m (12) Climb straight up to a big ledge. Stance below a roof with a left-pointing prong on the lip. Can be combined with Pitch 1. Pitch 4. 25 m (22) From a large boulder, use laybacks to reach a rail. Move slightly right then reach left to the prong. Cut loose in spectacular fashion and pull up to establish on the face below several vertical laybacks. Continue straight up to the next ledge. Stance below a left-facing horn on the lip of the roof a few meters up. This is just right of another vertical crack system above the roof. Pitch 5. 30 m (22) Use the horn to pull up past a thin vertical crack until able to stand above the roof. Move left to a layback crack then party on straight up for the summit on great holds.

Start as for Iron Maiden.

1. 25m (18) Pull up to the roof and traverse right until under the roof and onto the face on the right. Make a semi hanging stance at a rectangular ledge, more or less in the middle of the face.

2. 32m (17) Step left from the stance and then head straight up the face and follow the left side of some fin-like features to a ledge. Belay at a wide vertical crack. Move ~3m right for the next pitch.

3. 10m (15) Climb straight up, passing a roof ~3m up to a wide ledge.

4. 25m (18) Climb the face directly between Iron Maiden and Maidens Dare. Pull onto the face just right of two, long narrow roofs about 1m apart. Head straight up, using the left of 3 short, vertical cracks to a ledge. Move ~20m right for the last pitch.

5. 30m (19) About 5 meters right of the Maidens Dare chimney is a break where you can pull up and move left onto an undercut, projecting feature (between the roofs each side). From here head up and slightly right to the top.

Start: In the first big corner just to the right of the low overhang to the right of 'Maiden's Prayer'.

1. [21] 40m

   Pull into the undercut corner and then climb up into the flared recess above. Move out to the right using a horizontal crack, then move up to an excellent horizontal crack. Climbing to the left lands one in the upper part of the flared crack and climb to the roof to traverse left to a small ledge. Continue traversing until able to move up to a higher level and then further to the left onto the lip. Move up and around to belay on the left-hand side of a large, detached column.

2. [13] 46m

   This pitch can be split. Traverse to the left to a black undercut face and climb it on small incut holds, after which it is possible to move easily to the left under an overhang. Continue to the left, moving slightly down at one point, until just before an obvious watercourse is reached. Climb out and up to the right to a bottomless crack/chimney. Climb the crack on huge 'jugs' to a large ledge.

3. [14] 30m

   Walk right below the amphitheatre. Pass 'Maiden Voyage' break, continue past another break with a massive 2m thick block which is cammed in at around 6m off the ground. Start just before the ledge pinches out at a small cairn with restio's below a slab/ wall with breaks. Climb a recess moving up and right, continue in this fashion to the next ledge.

4. [17] 45m

   Shift slightly right to find the left tending dassie crawl, climb up to this then move left for a few meters till able to step up to below an overhang. Climb up to the overhang and reach for a good jug out left use this to turn the overhang. Continue up to top out.

1. [13] 26m

   Start as for 'Maiden's Prayer' to the start of 'Maiden's Prayer' P2, continue to the end of the ledge.

2. [14] 30m

   Traverse right on a great foot & finger rail. When the foot rail pinches out, climb diagonally up to stance below an overlap.

3. [14] 36m

   Move slightly right to below a bottomless chimney/ flake, climb the flake on great jugs up to a wide ledge with a short off-width crack on the left. Climb left of the crack to reach the massive ledge above

4. [14] 30m

   Walk right below the amphitheatre. Pass 'Maiden Voyage' break, continue past another break with a massive 2m thick block which is cammed in at around 6m off the ground. Start just before the ledge pinches out at a small cairn with restio's below a slab/ wall with breaks. Climb a recess moving up and right, continue in this fashion to the next ledge.

5. [17] 45m

   Shift slightly right to find the left tending dassie crawl, climb up to this then move left for a few meters till able to step up to below an overhang. Climb up to the overhang and reach for a good jug out left use this to turn the overhang. Continue up to top out.

1. [13] 26m

   Start as for 'Maiden's Prayer' to the start of 'Maiden's Prayer' P2, continue to the end of the ledge.

2. [13] 28m

   Traverse out right till able to proceed upwards to a ledge below a large corner.

3. [16] 28m

   Climb the corner and beyond on prongs to the large ledge.

4. [14] 30m

   Walk right below the amphitheatre. Pass 'Maiden Voyage' break, continue past another break with a massive 2m thick block which is cammed in at around 6m off the ground. Start just before the ledge pinches out at a small cairn with restio's below a slab/ wall with breaks. Climb a recess moving up and right, continue in this fashion to the next ledge.

5. [17] 45m

   Shift slightly right to find the left tending dassie crawl, climb up to this then move left for a few meters till able to step up to below an overhang. Climb up to the overhang and reach for a good jug out left use this to turn the overhang. Continue up to top out.

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

Pitch 1. 15 m (24) Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof. Pitch 2. 55 m (21) Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book. Pitch 3. 25 m (19) In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof. Pitch 4. 30 m (21) Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

After an aid move to get onto the route, four varied pitches take you to the top. Starts at the crack through the big roof between Danger Shrew and Odyssey. Bring your bow tie and flowers.

Pitch 1. 30m (20 A1) Aid through the roof to reach a large jug on the face. Carefully climb up into the wide recess and more gear. Head straight up to the roof, using the crack to the right if needed. Traverse left passing the wide vertical crack on the right side of a large block. Continue traversing left to the base of a shallow corner. Pitch 2. 50m (17) Straight up the shallow corner, then up to another crack that leads to a short face below the roof. Traverse ~2m right on thin moves and then up to the roof and rail out right until the roof ends. Continue straight up on easier ground to the huge ledge. Walk ~20m right. Pitch 3. 20m (21) In the middle of the face is a narrow overhang several meters up. Start below and right of the right-hand end of the stepped overhang at a thin layback. At the ledge, step right and then follow a series of small laybacks up the face to a protruding block. Traverse right below the block and up to the grassy ledge. Stance in some boulders below an obvious thin left-facing prong a few metres above. Pitch 4. 30 m (20) Navigate the wide gap up to the long prong. Gingerly step onto this prong to gain good holds up and left over the bulge. Continue straight up to the top.

Start ±10m left of Life In The Freezer. The first pitch is not for the faint-hearted.

1. 20 m (24) Climb up 2m until able to move left into a shallow recess with a small white flake near the top. Move up and left past the flake (marginal gear). Continue up and slightly right to the first ledge.

2. 25 m (20) Traverse 10m left on a good rail until able to pull up onto a narrow shelf below a shallow corner which is ascended to a very wide rail. Traverse left for about 12m until foot holds run out at a point below a layback crack under a roof.

3. 25 m (22) Move up the layback and balance left to gain a finger rail below a roof. Move left and then up to a good rail below the next roof. Continue left until this roof terminates and pull up right onto a ledge with a large block on it. Climb up the wide recess above and exit on the right. Traverse about 8m right to stance on a big, black, projecting flake.

4. 30 m (17) The Pure Joy Pitch. Climb straight up, pull through a roof about 5m up, then romp straight up to a massive ledge. The next pitch is several meters to the left.

5. 20 m (23) Start below the right end of a roof midway up the face. Climb straight up to into the shallow corner above the right end of the roof (crossing Lost Chord). After 2m step left onto the blunt arete and head boldly up the face to stance left of some large blocks.

6. 15 m (21) Pull up to a rail below the large roof. Traverse left over the void until able to pull up at the end of the roof. Move up 2m then step right to belay at a comfortable stance.

7. 25 m (13) Continue up the short chimney and scramble easily to the top.

Like the wandering albatross, the route roams around. The pitch before the 90 ° change in course will have you puffin.

1. 20 m (17) Start as for Bat, but after a few moves, move right to a thin seam about 2m right of the corner. Continue straight up to the ledge

2. 20 m (23) Pull up to a rail and move a bit right until able to do a long move to the next rail. Move back left to above and a little left of the belayer. Continue up into a shallow left-facing corner, and pull up to a finger rail in the roof. Make the voyage left to an island foothold to resupply. Step back right and use wingspan to gain side pulls to establish on the face. Glide up to the wide rail below the roofs. #4 Camelot recommended for stance.

3. 25 m (15) 90 degree change in course: head right on good hand holds until about to mantle up to the higher level. Flap on past the Swan, across the wide ledge and stance at the far right end of the narrow ledge.

4. 30 m (21) The Atlantic crossing. Pull up to the finger rail, move right to pull through, then at the next rail traverse back left above belayer (as for pitch 2 of The Crow). Continue left past the vertical crack and go up the face to the height of the roof. Move left again and easily up featured rock. Walk left along a narrow ledge for ~5m, pull up 2m to the next level and another 5 m left to a stance on a cosy ledge. Above are a series of large left facing wing-like features.

5. 25 m (17) Fly straight up the outside (right) of the big wings to a bulge with a break through the middle. Straight up to the massive ledge. Walk ~10m left to start the next pitch.

6. 25 m (21) On the left side of the smooth wall there is diagonally sloping feature at the base, which rises up to the left, with a wide rail above it. From the left end of this feature follow a series of left-facing flakes and arches to a finger rail. Move 2m right and pull onto the face. Move diagonally left on edges to a horizontal break, trying to keep the flap to a minimum. Up to a vertical hand crack to a ledge. Take the recess above to the summit.

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right-hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

1. 25 m (21) From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

2. 15 m (25) The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

3. 20 m (18) Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

4. 50 m (18) Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

5. 35 m (21) Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

Pitch 1. 30 m (23) Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left). Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move. Pitch 2. 20 m (24) From the right of the ledge move up right to a small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to the left end of the ledge. Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull. Pitch 3. 30 m (23) Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to the next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to a huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to the ledge. Pitch 4. 25 m (20) Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge. Pitch 5. 30 m (21) 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 30cm square parapet.

Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.

1. 40 m (18) From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.

2. 30 m (20) Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

1. 15 m (21) Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.

2. 30 m (23) Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse". Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.

3. 20 m (24) Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.

4. 40 m (21) Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.

5. 30 m (23) Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

Start: Below the large brown corners left of 'Tafelberg Frontal'

1. [13] 12m

   Climb the recess to the ledge.

2. [17] 30m

   Scramble right to where the dark orange rock becomes more speckled. Climb 2 short walls into a recess up to the roof, then rail left to a small stance. End of this pitch not great for 3 climbers.

3. [19] 20m

   Climb up then rail right on a curved face with a slither of rock in the rail to stance on a great ledge.

4. [16] 15m

   Climb up to the dassie ledge, crawl left into a large recess.

5. [16] 40m

   Move left then up an amazing break, has to be the best of the grade anywhere. when looking difficult at the roof move right onto the face and up to a good ledge.

6. [15] 30m

   Climb Mamacos's variation to 'Tafelberg Frontal'

This sustained route features a wild, pumpy traverse in an airy position.

Pitch 1. 15 m (16) About 10m right of Grappler, climb a recess with a chimney and layback crack to the huge ledge.\

Pitch 2. 15 m (22) Start from a large block 5m left of Grappler P2. A tricky start up a short recess leads to a wide rail. Move 2m left to where you can pull through on laybacks. Follow a steep corner to the roof. Traverse left to a cramped stance shared with Grappler.

Pitch 3. 15 m (21) Head up ~2m to the first rail (below Grappler's rail). Traverse right around the protruding corner and then keep going until just past the first flake in the roof. Make a hanging stance where a #3 Camalot fits the rail. Gear: Big cams of the Camelot #2 - #4 range are required. Doubles are useful although not absolutely essential.

Pitch 4. 8 m (23) Rail ~4m right and pull through the roof on a dubious flake just before the rail pinches out. Pull onto the face above and up ~2m to a semi-hanging stance at a narrow ledge. This could be combined with the previous pitch but would add a couple of grades.

Pitch 5. 30 m (20) Climb straight up toward a roof ~10m up. Pull through on the large layback on the left and continue to a large ledge, and then a few meters up to a smaller ledge.

Pitch 6. 20 m (20) Head up an orange wall on small flakes and edges to an obvious arch/bridge in the grey rock. Pull through the roof and straight up on the featured rock to a wide ledge.

Pitch 7. 25 m (21) Start up a short crack, followed by a rising traverse through a series of inverted steps and underlings to a shelf. Step left and straight up, aiming for a right tending crack through a slight bulge. Tend left to the large ledge.

Pitch 8. 12 m (17) Walk 10m left to a corner crack. Climb the corner crack into a smooth right-facing corner. After ~5m, step left onto the arete and up to the top.

The route breaks through the big roof between Grappler and 'Tafelberg Frontal' with steep and spectacular climbing. Starts ±30m left of 'Tafelberg Frontal', just left of a big roof and under a hook-shaped feature at the base of a layback crack. Some extra medium size cams are useful on pitch 2.

1. 20 m (23) Head up ±5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ±2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double-layer roof above.

2. 25 m (26) The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ±7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ±2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right-hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams).

3. 25 m (16) Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.

4. 30 m (21) Start just right of 'Sorcerer'. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right-facing corner. At the top step left onto the grey face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with Sorcerer).

5. 35 m (20) Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with 'Jedi Fish' P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ±15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.

Start 30m left of the 'Central Direct' break.

1. [12] 25m

   Climb the grey break on good jugs (semi-polished) to a ledge.

2. [11] 45m

   Traverse right over blocks to the 'Central Direct' break. Step over and then up to a ledge, and continue to a stance.

3. [13] 45m

   Climb up and left onto blocks. Transition to the face, and climb in a leftward direction up to the long roof. Now traverse left and down (when forced) to a ledge with a short chimney/ cave above, pass this and continue to the long narrow chimney.

4. [12] 35m

   Climb the chimney past a chockstone to a wide ledge. Continue up the layback crack to exit on a ledge. Stance here.

5. [12] 12m

   Walk ±15m left to the start of the next pitch. Climb up and diagonally left past an old piton to a wide ledge. Traverse 50m left to the start of the next pitch.

6. [13] 35m

   Climb onto a finger of rock. Step over (balancy) right to gain a deep break. Follow your nose to the top. Mamacos's Variation [15]: Step left off the finger of rock and up to the top.

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Sorcerer. Start a few meters left of Tafelberg Frontal at a 'tower' cairn.

1. 42 m (20) Climb straight up for 2 m on a red face with pockets leading to a grey wall. Pleasant grade 12 climbing to a ledge. Continue up little ledges aiming for the open book on the right (Sorcerer takes the easier line even further right). Climb the open book to the roof, take 2 steps to the left and pull through to good holds just left of a lonely small bush. Step right and move up the face to a good stance 10 m above the roof (tower cairn).

2. 30 m (19) A tricky move gets one onto the face. Follow a faint straight line of red lichen and then a white streak to a block on a ledge. Say 'Hello' to the 'Fish jumping out of the waves' feature below a layback crack. Use the fish's back, delicately, to gain the crack, follow that to a hollow-sounding flake and another one with better rock. Move left below the little roof and up to the ledge. Stance at the splitter crack.

3. 40 m (19) Climb the splitter crack and over some blocks. Tend leftwards to avoid the roof, 2 moves up into a leftward slanting break. Don't follow the break all the way, instead move right onto the face and straight up to the top. The last 10m are on superb orange, featured rock.

Varied climbing with a committing crux pitch. Runs right and parallel to 'The Jedi Fish'. The crux pitch can be replaced with the first half of pitch 2 of 'The Jedi Fish', to give a safer route at grade 21.

1. 15 m (13) Climb the face just left of 'Tafelberg Frontal'. Stance below a small roof.

2. 20 m (21) Pull over some bulges to a little ledge below some roofs. Pull strenuously into a left-facing V slot. Establish over this and pull through two more roofs onto a face. Straight up to a small ledge.

3. 15 m (18) Climb the series of right-facing layback cracks, through an overlap and past a huge rectangular block to a ledge.

4. 15 m (23) Start below a large flat hold at about eye level. Head up a few meters (Camalot #1 and #2). Traverse left for 3m on good foot edges. Pull up at a flake (micro nuts or tiny cam). Move up and right to the large undercling feature. Hard moves out left then straight up to the enormous ledge. This pitch wanders a bit, and the gear is a bit tricky.

5. 20 m (20) Start at the hairline crank that rises slightly left. Follow this to a rail. Move right and up to a narrow roof. Pull through to a left-facing layback. Balance up, and continue another few meters to a hanging stance at a handrail with a good foot ledge.

6. 30 m (18) Step right and follow a series of huge flakes. Continue tending right until able to pull up into another set of flakes just below the summit.

A consistent, direct line to the left of 'Central Direct'. Along the first long traverse of 'Tafelberg Frontal', there is a large rectangular block with a roof above it. The route starts below the left side of this block.

1. 15 m (14) Climb the easy break to the block.

2. 20 m (19) From the left end of the block, pull up to just below the roof and head left on good holds until able to pull over onto the face. Head up and then slightly right to stance at the base of a narrow chimney (shared with 'Tafelberg Frontal')

3. 30 m (17) Start up the chimney part of 'Tafelberg Frontal', then move right onto the middle of the orange face. Head straight up to a narrow ledge.

4. 50 m (19) Start up a crack and then blast straight up the wall, aiming for a left-tending corner crack just below the summit. This crack forms the first (not the second) left-facing corner about 5m left of the massive flake at the top of 'Central Direct'.

Start: up the undercut crack system to the right of 'Tafelberg Frontal'.

1. [20] 15m

   Climb the overhanging crack at the bottom of the central break.

2. [18] 25m

   Continue up the crack to a large stance in a cave.

3. [21] 30m

   Move out left from the cave and into a crack. Climb thru the overlap to a small stance.

4. [11] 15m

   Climb to the large ledge.

5. [18] 40m

   Climb up and to the right, then to the left on black rock. Move up a little, then back to the right to a line of weakness directly below the flake. Climb the line of weakness, then move a little to the left and chimney out behind the flake to the top.

Start: 16m right of 'Tafelberg Frontal'

1. [11] 30m

   Climb the right hand of 2 narrow cracks (lichenous) up to an overhang, when forced, traverse right and up to a ledge. Don't stance on the same level as 'Tafelberg Frontal' P2, rather a meter or 2 lower above the central crack.

2. [13] 20m

   Traverse to the right across an obvious nose, this is below 'Tafelberg Frontal' P2. Stay above the lip of the roof until obliged up, a delicate move leads to the ledge above. Join the last bit of 'Tafelberg Frontal' P2 and then stance.

3. [18] 30m

   Climb up and left onto blocks. Transition to the face, and climb in a leftward direction to the dassie traverse ledge to a lone flat block. Climb up below a black sharp column/rib, traverse right below a shield above and around a blonde rib (trapezoid in shape= white apron), continue up diagonally taking the path of least resistance to the right side of a small overlap which is ±in line with the bottomless corner above. Now move left and over the overlap continue to stance at the bottomless corner. Note it might be better to stance one ledge lower and right. As there is not a lot of gear to stance directly below the bottomless chimney.

4. [15] 30m

   Traverse left till on the dark rock with really large foot holds. Climb the face tending left, past a right facing corner and up the next break to the good ledge.

5. [18] 35m

   Climb the face on the left, and dance up the black streak. Tend left near the top to align oneself with the chimney/ massive flake. Climb inside the chimney/ flake to top out.

Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal

1. 15 m (16) Climb straight up to the left-facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.

2. 25 m (20) Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).

3. 30 m (19) Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)

4. 30 m (23) Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.

5. 10 m (22) Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.

Tends up and right from Vuvuzela. The second pitch is easier than it is hard as it looks from the stance.

1. 45 m (19) Shares the first 15m of Vuvuzela. Climb straight up to the left-facing corner to a ledge. Traverse a few meters right and pull through an overlap. Head more or less straight up the face until the roof. Traverse right for about 10m.

2. 30 m (21) Pull onto the short undercut face and through the narrowest part of two roofs. Pull up to the next rail under an overlap, pull up and right across the face for a few meters to horizontal break with a roof to the right. Continue straight up the face to belay on a ledge below a left arching crack

3. 40 m (19) Climb the crack, move slightly right and then straight up the face to a horizontal break. Follow a left tending diagonal for 1m to pass the roof on its left then step right and continue up the face to a narrow ledge. Traverse right to a left tending crack (shared with Boomerang Direct and Assegai).

4. 10 m (18) Follow the crack this to where it terminates, and step right onto a brown face and follow good crimps to the top.

Another line starting above the massive roof just right of Tafelberg Frontal. Do the first two pitches of the Frontal and walk right along the ledge to about 10m left of where Boomerang goes up. Start at the right-hand end of some roofs above you, about 1m right of an obvious recessed corner, and below a white nose.

1. 20 m (16) Head directly up to the white nose just right of the corner. Reach up to an awesome jug on the tip of the nose and climb up to a big ledge.

2. 35 m (19) Pull up onto the face above the stance and up a small, left-facing corner system towards the right-hand side of a detached roof that is almost an arch. Rail 2m right to skirt the roof and up to a ledge.

3. 25 m (20) The Improbable Pitch. Start off a block a few metres left of where you just came up. Climb up to the second rail then traverse left past an obvious vertical crack. At some loose blocks head up and slightly left to a small stance.

4. 20 m (21) Head straight up past some delicate moves to a huge ledge. Could be combined with the previous pitch.

5. 20 m (21) Walk about 8m left to some blocks at the base of a blunt, white nose with layback cracks on either side. Climb up the easier right-hand side until able to reach across to the left side. Climb up to a small overlap. Pull through and head up to the base of an impossible looking, smooth, round corner below the summit. Traverse 8m left past a short finger crack to a small stance below a recessed crack. P6. 10 m (17) Climb the crack and a delicate move to finish.

A straight route crossing Boomerang.

1. 30 m (24) Start ~5m right of Freedom Feather directly below two narrow corners about 15m up. The right corner has a large undercling flake at the top. Follow a series of overhanging rails, then easy climbing, to a ledge below the corners. Pull up to a rail (about a foot wide), then up into the left corner. Hard moves into the right corner, then exit right onto the face above. Head straight up to the next ledge.

2. 35 m (20) Pull up past the narrow part of the roof above (just left of a left-pointing fin). Head up and left using parts of the crescent undercling feature to the rail below the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto a small ledge. Step left and head up, passing a short corner to the Space Station (a glorious stance on a projecting pillar).

3. 35 m (22) From the stance, step right onto a large block. A thin rail low on the right takes tiny cams. Above are some vague underlings. Use these and face holds to gain a small, good edge (crux). Match here and make a long move right to a big edge. Head up aiming for the left arching crack. Follow this to where it terminates, and step right onto a brown face and follow good crimps to the top. Belay at good mushrooms. The grade is very height dependant. Significantly easier if over 6ft tall.

Arr me mateys, a fine voyage up the vertical Cederberg seas.

Avail yourself of the first pitches of Boomerang to gain the ledge over the huge roof. Start ~6m left of Boomerang pitch 3.

1. 17m (18) Step off a block to reach a high rail and past a small left-facing corner, with bush, to a ledge. At the overlap above, high step onto the face on the left to reach a good layback. Continue straight up the face and at the wide horizontal break move right to stance on the gangplank, just below the peg from Boomerang.

2. 15m (23) Step off the left side of the gangplank, leaving any Landlubber tendencies behind, and rail left over the deep. Use underclings to gain the bottomless corner and fight to establish over the void, no quarter given. Straight up to stance in the large boulders on the ledge. Suggest tapping left pinkie finger.

3. 30m (18) From the stance, move right to easily pull up onto the face. Follow the left facing features to a wide rail and move right to a narrow ledge (the large layback crack on Boomerang is just to the right). Head up and left for a few meters, then straight up to weigh anchor on the ledge.

4. 40 m (21) Reach the good, high hold (aye, you can use the cairn if you be short), then follow good flat holds until the angle eases. Cross Boomerang Direct and pull onto the right side of the bulge on the grey rock. Get some micro nuts in the thin seem and crank up to good rails. Pull up and right over the overlap into a vague recess, followed by a mantelshelf onto a smooth, narrow ledge. Head diagonally up and right past the overhang on its right side, then head back slightly left to the top and fly the Jolly Rodger

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Boomerang Direct. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of Boomerang begins.

Pitch 1. 10 m (17) Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m). Pitch 2. 30 m (21) Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right-hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it. Pitch 3. 25m (17) Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right-hand side of the roof at a big upside-down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge. Pitch 4. 20 m (24) This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meters higher at the base of a wide left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade. Pitch 5. 10 m (17) Climb the arched crack to the top.

A good mix of corners, flakes, ramps and roofs.

Use the Frontal or Boomerang to gain the far right end of the ledge over the huge roof. Start as for Boombox

1. 20m (17) Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse right and up. Continue right past the smooth, left-facing corner on Boombox and take the next easy right facing recess up to a ledge. Traverse a few meters right to a below a corner that is dark brown on the right-hand wall.

2. 15m (21) Blast up the corner and then diagonally up and left to reach a fantastic flake in brown rock. Romp up the flake to the roof, where you pull through the middle and then move slightly right until able to crank up to the ledge.

3. 20m (20) Step off the top of the sail-shaped rock onto the face. Step right and then straight up to the roof about 10m up. Move left and use good holds that rise diagonally to the left to pull over the roof. Head back right and follow an easy break to the large ledge. Walk right, under the Whistling Woozel corner to the shiny, left-facing ramp.

4. 35 m (21) Climb the ramp to a horizontal rail and step right. Tricky face moves up and right allow one to establish on the wall above. Ride the winds up, following the easiest line and near the top move right to a grey flake and then straight to the summit.

Another route starting off the ledge above the huge roof right of the Frontal. Start at the right-hand end of the ledge (as for Boombox).

1. 30 m (17) Start as for Boombox directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Continue to traverse right below a white dihedral then diagonally up and right to a ledge below a big, vertical crack capped by a double roof.

2. 15 m (22) About 3m right of the crack climb straight up to a narrow roof with an obvious undercling on the lip. Pull through to the rail below the next roof. Move 1m right then up into the break, through the top roof. A beefy layback leads up to stance on a small ledge with a bush.

3. 35 m (19) Climb straight up to the black roof about 10m up. Pull through on flakes at the widest part. Go up past one big ledge to a second, massive ledge below an obvious corner crack system right of a big roof.

4. 35 m (20) Climb the corner crack system exiting right at the top onto a tiny corner ledge. Tricky pull past a layback. Climb the face right of the obvious, black corner crack heading to the right of a projecting arete. Up the grey corner to the top.

A fine outing with varied climbing, ample exposure, stupendous stances and a little bit of spice.

Start as for Boombox.

1. 40 m (17) Start at the end of the ledge directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Pull up to the next level and traverse right a further 30m until a vertical crack below the steep corner with the Dark Arête on the left. Pull up to an excellent stance.

2. 18 m (19) The Dark Arête. Pull up into the steep corner and then move left onto the easy but exposed arête. Climb this to another great stance on the rippled prow.

3. 35 m (19) From the stance, step up onto the shelf on the right. Traverse 4m right to some narrow vertical slots (small cams/wires). Pull up on great edges to a monster pocket. Step left and head up for a corner. Climb the light brown wall on the right of the corner to a ledge. Traverse right under the roof, then climb straight up to the big ledge. Stance at a right-arching layback crack, in brown rock, just right of some stacked blocks.

4. 50 m (19) Climb the layback to a delicate flake (with small gear in a thin crack to the right). Move up and left to a ledge, then slightly further left until able to climb the orange ramp. Head for a narrow overlap which is passed on the left. Romp up the headwall and near the top tend slightly right to a large flake and featured face (left of a water runoff feature). Belay from the huge, convenient mushroom.

A 3 pitch route through the steepness between 'Nambarrie' and 'Snake in the Grass' Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Starts by climbing the first pitch of 'Snake In The Grass' and then heads left for two pitches to a ledge on which one can traverse left a few meters to where 'Nambarrie' comes up in a corner. From here one can do a single abseil back to the ground.

1. [20] 15m

   As for Snake in the Grass: up to the rail and traverse left on the wide broken rail. Continue left to hanging stance where the wide rail runs out.

2. [26] 15m

   Straight up on edges to a rail and into a steep right-facing flare that turns into a crack. Continue straight to a roof, which is passed on the left side via some face moves to another wide rail. Crank through here to a rail and make a long move left to a side pull. Strenuously up to a break and a hanging stance on the right.

3. [25] 20m

   Pull through the roof and corner to the left into a short left facing recess. Pull up to the next hand rail. Traverse left with increasing difficulty to the left end of the finger rail and pull up into the base of a vague right-facing recess. Continue up the recess, with a committing section (small wires) to a triangular feature below a roof (treat with care). Pull left and up to a wide ledge.

Descent: Locate a rap point about 5m left of where you come up above the corner on 'Nambarrie'. One ~50m free abseil to ground.

Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Start 20m right of Snake In The Grass. At this point, the large roof on the left ends and another starts on the right about 2m higher up.

1. 20 m (25) From a projecting, good edge at head height, pull up past three rails into a short brown corner. A hard move (past an old peg) gets one to the roof. Traverse left until the roof almost peters out and crank up to the next rail. Move 2m right, up to the next rail, and back left to another old peg. From here head 3m diagonally up and right across a face to a hanging stance left of a bulge.

2. 15 m (21) Climb up and then right to a recess. Continue straight up to a wide rail under a roof. Traverse right until able to pull through the roof at its narrowest point. Stance just above in a vague corner.

3. 25 m (23) Step left and head up through a stepped series of roofs to a hand jam rail below the last roof. Head right over the void until able to pull up onto the face. Continue up to a spacious ledge.

4. 35 m (21) Climb up on the good orange rock, just right of a black scrappy corner, to another ledge. Move right until below a corner and featured arete about 10m higher up. Continue straight up to this corner, and then climb to the right on the featured arete until you reach the walk-off ledge. Descent: Stroll rightwards along the walk-off ledge until you can scramble down below the Black Ice Wall. Perhaps one day some strong blokes will find a way from the walk off ledge to the summit.

Definitely, not 18. Been told more 20/21

We started below the roof, not at the break.

1. 16 15m

   Pull onto the face and up and right towards the break, then traverse left on the ledge to a dish below the prominent layback to stance.

2. 20 20m

   Climb the powerful layback crack, then rail right, and up to stance.