Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Parking 1 Northern Sector | |||||
18 | ★★★ Kersie Fees
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★ Spiertier
The feature just left of Kersie Fees FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Fiksvos
The feature just left of Kersie Fees FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
15 | ★★ Vleis Paleis
FA: Richard Halsey, Oct 2018 | ||||
16 | ★★ Ramkat
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Barry's Lair
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Haloumi Gridlock
Takes a central line, with a short fierce crux. Climb up to the break and traverse 1m right to below the milk chocolate coloured streak. Tricky moves lead to easier but steeper climbing. The only vertical slot in the brown streak takes a medium wire (offset best), and without it, there may be a different type of brown streak. FA: Richard Halsey, Oct 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★ Frodo
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
14 | ★★ Bilbo
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
19 | ★★ Samwise
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
Parking 1 Dragon's Cleft | |||||
12 | ★★ Dragon Pillar
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
19 | ★★ Dragon Crack
FA: Unknown | ||||
15 | ★★ Dragon Breath
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
15 | ★ Dragoon
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
18 | Pendragon
Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend. FA: Richard Halsey, 2011 | ||||
20 | Komodo Dragon
Make a bold start (possible to protect first moves with micro nuts) up to the ledge then step left to the corner. A tricky move up to the next rail, and out left to a little perch. Continue up and right on fantastic holds and then left of the big fin at the top. FA: Richard Halsey, Aug 2018 | ||||
20 | Dragonboat
On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to the top. Scramble off back. FA: Richard Halsey, 2011 | ||||
21 | Double Dragon
Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back. FA: J. Hajos, 2011 | ||||
21 | Cold Chamber
A deceptively tricky recess opposite the Dragon Wall. FA: Richard Halsey, Aug 2018 | ||||
14 | Double Down
Walk through the Dragon cleft (from the carpark side) and find a short wall. Follows the recess up the side of the wall. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Aug 2018 | ||||
16 | Team Vvoooom
This route is in a collection of features opposite (South) of the Dragon area FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Aug 2018 | ||||
Parking 1 Ken's Block | |||||
10 | ★ Jug Face
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
14 | ★★ Sweaty Palms
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2018 | ||||
15 | ★ Jiggle
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
19 | ★ Juggle
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
13 | ★ The Groove
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | 15m | |||
18 | Brick Rover
Between Ken’s block and Red Turret is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to the platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with the centre of Arête and gun for the top. Walk off and down the gulley to the right of the route. FA: Richard Halsey & G. Dondel, 2010 | ||||
Parking 1 Red Turret | |||||
16 | Scarlet Vantage
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Aug 2018 | ||||
19 | Red Wine Planet
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Aug 2018 | ||||
18 | Raspberry Vice
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters | ||||
17 | Rooi Pypie
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters | ||||
13 | ★ Rooi Gevaar
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
19 | Silly Sermon
5m left of 'Yellow River' there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top. FA: Richard Halsey & G. Dondel, 2010 | ||||
14 | ★ Yellow River
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
11 | ★ Big Red
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
Parking 1 First Parking | |||||
18 | ★★★ Grass Popper
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★ Dune Hug
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★ Butter Fry
FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Oct 2018 | ||||
Parking 1 Punks in the Cederberg | |||||
12 | ★ Trance Dance
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
22 | ★★★ The Crack
FA: Charles Edelstein, 2002 | ||||
14 | Monks in Sin
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
13 | Cappuccino Rules
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
Parking 1 Twin Columns | |||||
14 | ★ Twin Column
FA: M. Scott, 2001 | ||||
21 | ★★ Twin Peaks
On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017 | ||||
17 | ★★ Two for One
Start about 3m right of Twin Peaks. Climb a short ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017 | ||||
19 | ★★ Kissing Towers
Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right-hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other. FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2017 | ||||
18 | ★ Twins Fears
A great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017 | ||||
Parking 2 Rattlesnake Arête | |||||
13 | ★ What?
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
11 | ★ Where?
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
13 | ★ Dither
FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2017 | ||||
Parking 2 Can Can Alley | |||||
16 | ★★ ChaCha
Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress. Lower from Fynhoud chains. FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2002 | ||||
12 | ★ Tap Dance
Route on second buttress in alley. Climbs obvious lay back at 1/3rd height, then steep jugs to top. FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2002 | ||||
13 | ★ CanCan Arête
Climb arête on left corner of third buttress to lower off chains FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2004 | ||||
20 - 22 | ★★ Birthday Suite
The vague arête just right of Skeletium Skank. Tricky start followed by lovely, but slightly runout climbing. FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2018 | ||||
12 | ★ CanCan Diagonal
Route on fourth buttress. Climbs obvious diagonal open book (near arch). FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2004 | ||||
15 | Hot Tango
Start about 5m right of CanCan Diagonal, at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds. Then continue straight to the top of the crag. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017 | ||||
15 | Summer Salsa
Start about 5m right of Hot Tango. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017 | ||||
14 | ★★ CanCan Central
Climb to lower offs at top. Well protected. Small cam protects exit move to lower offs. FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2010 | ||||
12 | ★ Grey Arête
FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2010 | 22m | |||
16 | Camel Man
Start about 2m right of Moulin Rouge and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m. FA: Richard Halsey & T. Dunnett, Dec 2017 | ||||
16 | Striptease
Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start. FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2017 | ||||
Parking 2 HUECO PUNKS | |||||
19 | The Flint Tube
Take the Tube left of Flint Hard and follow the left side of the higher feature and step back right to the chains of Flint Hard at the top. FA: Richard Halsey, 2019 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Snake and Mirrors
Take the wide slot that eventually narrows to a hand crack above the pod, between The Passion and Golden Handshake. Better than it looks. FA: Richard Halsey, 2019 | ||||
16 | ★ Ignition
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Jam Crack
FA: H. Zak, 2002 | ||||
22 | ★★ Bush Pilot
Deadpoint from the rail in the pillar to the obvious hold. Break left and exit through notch in the roof on to the juggy face. FA: Matthew Robinson, 17 Nov 2023 | ||||
12 | ★ Macarena
FA: M. Scott, 2002 | ||||
8 | ★ Ketchup
FA: M. Scott, 2002 | ||||
Parking 2 Cave Buttress | |||||
16 | ★★★ The Cave
Shuffle through the side door and negotiate the wormhole before pulling up onto the face above the cave. Straight up to the top. A unique and interesting line. Walk off the back (involves a bit of a downclimb) or improvise a rapp point. FA: T. Versfeld & Charles Edelstein, 2003 | ||||
18 | ★★ Un Petit Problème
Climb the centre of the east face of the small pillar, to the right of the cave art, encountered on the path from the second car park. At the top, walk across and step across the crevice to the main buttress and find a suitable abseil point. FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate, Nov 2019 | ||||
Parking 2 The Arch | |||||
24 | ★★★ Tripping Through Her Wire
FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2004 | ||||
Parking 2 Rattler Buttress | |||||
22 | The Sokkie Showdown
Takes the crack to the left of Lang Arm. The start is tricky and although there is good gear there is potential for a ground fall. At the top move right to use Lang Arm anchors. FA: Richard Halsey, 2019 | ||||
10 | ★ Mickey Mouse Rib
FA: M. Scott, 2002 | ||||
15 | ★ Rattle my Chops
FA: M. Scott, 1998 | ||||
Parking 2 Gateway Prow | |||||
14 | ★★ Truitjies Rib
FA: M. Scott, 1999 | ||||
Parking 2 Tre Putane | |||||
10 | ★ Lilly Slapped Silly
FA: M. Scott, 2001 | ||||
16 | ★★ Donald Where's Your Trousers
FA: M. Scott, 2001 | ||||
13 | ★ Suzy Q
FA: M. Scott, 2001 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Average Man
Pull over the initial bulge, then step left and up the blunt arête. Step back right to series of vertical cracks starting at a small tree growing in the cubby hole. Great climbing up the cracks to the top. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017 | ||||
15 | ★★ Everyday Hero
Step up onto a platform below a smooth white, blank section. Pull up into a series of short vertical cracks that tend up and left. FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2017 | ||||
Parking Snake Charmer Snake Charmer Arête | |||||
25 - 27 | ★★★ High Speed Cow
Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer. Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top. Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels. FA: Richard Halsey & S. Nightingale, Jul 2018 | ||||
13 | ★★★ Slither Me Timbers
FA: M. Scott, 1996 | 3 | |||
24/25 | ★★★ The Blizzard Beast
Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it! Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face. FA: Richard Halsey, Aug 2018 | ||||
17 | To be named
This route is on the wall that forms the gulley on the first buttress to the right of the King Cobra Prow. Start up the break on the left of the wall and at the ledge pull onto the second half of the wall just to the left of the corner of the roof. FA: T. Versfeld & Richard Halsey, Mar 2018 | ||||
21 | Chubby Head Stout
This route is on the wall that forms the gulley on the first buttress to the right of the King Cobra Prow. Start up the middle break with a tricky start. At the ledge step right to use a lower section of the roof to pull through and then step left and straight up the face to the top. Start will be harder for shorter folks. FA: Richard Halsey & T. Versfled, Mar 2018 | ||||
23 | Yellow Fish Larger
This route is on the small face in front of the second buttress to the right of King Cobra Prow. Head up the face to an overlap. Pull right to layback and up to the narrow roof. Crank through using the finger crack and easily to the ledge. Walk off right. FA: Richard Halsey & T. Versfeld, Mar 2018 | ||||
Parking 3 Auburn Wall | |||||
16 | Striped Horse
Start just right of a recess and then more or less straight to the top with a steep section in the middle. FA: Richard Halsey, Mar 2018 | ||||
18 | Tall Horse
Takes the vague arête on the right of the buttress at the entrance to the gulley. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Mar 2018 | ||||
19 | Wasp Factory
Start on the central pillar and climb up over a small lip on 'ok' gear. Continue up over a small roof and straight up to the top of the wall on good rails. Descend off the back via a sketchy scramble or ab off using tat. FA: M. Wisewedel & C. Standing | ||||
14 | Auburn Strawberries
Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down the gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk-off back and around. FA: Richard Halsey & B. Excell, 2010 | ||||
Parking 3 Bushman Wall | |||||
17 | Catfish Ale
This route is on the left side of the Bushman Wall, which forms a pillar when viewed head-on. Abseil tat as of Mar 2018. Start up the beak on the right side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep ground to the blunt arête, which ends at a small ledge. FA: Richard Halsey & T. Versfeld, Mar 2018 | ||||
16 | To Be Named
This route is on the left side of the Bushman Wall, which forms a pillar when viewed head-on. Abseil tat as of Mar 2018. Start up the beak on the left side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep section and straight to the top. FA: T. Versfeld & Richard Halsey, Mar 2018 | ||||
12 | ★ Boesman
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
12 | ★ Lena
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
17 | Medicine Man
Climbs diagonally up the face to the right of Lena FA: Oliver Williams & Richard Halsey, Feb 2019 | ||||
18 | San Man
Start in the gully and up the face until able to move left and up the right arete of the largest section of the Bushman Wall. FA: Richard Halsey & Oliver Williams, Feb 2019 | ||||
12 | ★ Rockart
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
13 | ★★ Poison Arrow
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
13 | ★★ Water Skin
FA: M. Scott, 2000 | ||||
15 | Klip Man
Start just to the right of a small overhang and climb in the centre of the face. FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Mar 2018 |