Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Lower Merced Canyon Arch Rock | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Anticipation
| 2 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Supplication
| 2 | |||
5.9 | Entrance Exam
| 2 | |||
5.10c | ★★ English Breakfast Crack
| 2 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Midterm
| 42m | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Leanie Meanie
second pitch not recomended | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Gripper
| 100m, 3 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ New Dimensions
FA: Bridwell & ? | 4 | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff | |||||
5.11b | ★ Mystic Mint
| ||||
5.10c | Twinkle
| ||||
5.12b | ★ Nutter Butter
| ||||
5.12a | ★ Tennessee Strings
| ||||
5.10a | Banana Dreams
| ||||
5.11b | ★★★ Hardd
FFA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk & Steve Wunsch, 1975 | 73m, 2 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Crack-a-Go-Go
FA: Harvey Carter & Pete Pederson, 1967 FFA: Pete Livesy & Ron Fawcett, 1974 | 40m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Outer Limits
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Jim Orey, 1971 | 47m, 2 | |||
5.12c | Satanic Mechanic
FA: Dimitri Barton | ||||
5.11b | ★ Orangutan Arch
| ||||
5.8 | ★★ Elevator Shaft
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Phil Bircheff, 1965 | 70m, 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Twilight Zone
FFA: Chuck Pratt & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 30m | |||
5.12c | ★★ Chips Ahoy
| ||||
5.12b | ★ Ginger Snap
| ||||
5.12b R | ★★ America's Cup
FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Wiegand, 1985 | ||||
5.11d | ★★★ Red Zinger
| 25m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Meat Grinder p1
| 20m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Meat Grinder
FA: Royal Robbins & TM Herbert, 1968 | 76m, 2 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ Meat Grinder Arete
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Beverly's Tower
| 30m | |||
5.11b | ★★ Afershock
| ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Waverly Wafer
| 30m | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Butterballs
| 25m | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Wheat Thin
| 20m | |||
5.11a | ★★ Butterfingers
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Ladyfingers
| ||||
5.10a | ★ The Cookie - Left Side
| ||||
5.9 | ★ The Cookie - Center Route
| ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Cookie - Right Side
FFA: Royal Robbins & Lloyd Price, 1968 | 73m, 2 | |||
5.10b | ★ Vendetta
| ||||
5.9 | Infraction
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Anathema
| ||||
5.11b | Last in Line
| ||||
5.11a | ★ Jardin's Hand
| ||||
5.9 | ★ The Cleft
| ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Catchy
| 30m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Catchy Corner
| 46m | |||
5.12c | Zipperhead
| ||||
5.11b | ★ The Void
| ||||
5.10d | ★ Void Continuation
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ The Enigma
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Ramp of Destruction
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Abstract Corner
| ||||
5.8 | Escape
| ||||
5.11b | ★★★ Shortcake
| ||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Enema
| ||||
5.12b | ★ Ray's Pin Job
| ||||
5.11d | ★ Something for Nothing
| ||||
5.11a | ★ Gunning for Buddha
| ||||
5.11b | ★ Terminator Left Side
| ||||
5.10b | ★★ Terminator Right Side
| ||||
North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Sherrie's Crack
| 24m | |||
5.8 | ★ Nurdle
| 55m | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Super Slacker Highway
| 180m, 8, 16 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Knob Job
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 61m, 2 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Desperate Straights
| 27m | |||
5.10a | Babble On
| 24m, 1 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Polymastia
| ||||
5.9 | ★ Suds
| 37m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Knob Hill | |||||
5.9 | ★ Pot Belly LHV
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 18m | |||
5.7 | ★ Pot Belly
FA: Bill Griffin & Bruce Price, 1973 | 18m | |||
5.7 | ★ Turkey Pie (aka Chicken Pie)
FA: Jerry Anderson, 1973 | 30m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Reed's Pinnacle Area | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Reed's Direct
FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964 | 73m, 3 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Reed's Regular Route
FA: Herb Swedlund & Wally Reed, 1957 | 91m, 4 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Lunatic Fringe
Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb. | 43m | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Stone Groove
| 18m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Stone Fist
The off-width and hand crack just to the right of Stone Groove. DBB on top. | 20m | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Reed's Pinnacle Direct
| 95m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Ejesta
The first pitch is ok with some finger cracks. The top pitches is the money with an amazing hand crack in a dihedral leading up to an easy o/w section - bring a C4 #4 to lower the spice, but you can do without. An easy albeit airy traverse is your finish. | 18m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner
FA: Don Reid & Jay Fiske, 1975 | 24m | |||
5.10a X | ★ Copper Penny
FA: Charlie Porter et al, 1971 | 27m | |||
5.10d | ★★ Five and Dime
FA: Barry Bates et al, 1971 | 27m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Holey Gully
| 21m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Highway Star Bluff | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Highway Star (10b variation start)
| 18m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Highway Star
| 18m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Parkline Area Parkline Slab The Cockshead | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ Bring in the Fembots
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler & Dave Horn | 46m, 3 | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Above The Cookie | |||||
5.12b | ★★★ Tales of Power
Sent by Louise Shepherd in 1981 or 1983, one of the first Aussie female ascents at this grade. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Separate Reality
An epic roof climb that has been soloed by many pros. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | 15m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Wildcat Falls Area Knobby Wall | |||||
5.10b | ★★ The Flake
| ||||
North Lower Merced Canyon Cascade Falls Left Side | |||||
5.12b | ★★★ Fish Crack
Solo up knobs and move right up an awkward OW corner. #3 or 4 Camelot useful. Step left to gain comfortable stance before blasting up perfect splitter fingers getting progressively more difficult until you pounce for the victory jug | 30m | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Crimson Cringe
Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. | 50m, 1 | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Cascade Falls Upper | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ The Phoenix
FFA: Ray Jardine, 1977 | 49m | |||
5.11b | On the Spot
| ||||
5.10b | Cascade Crack
| ||||
5.14c | Meltdown
A fingertips crack. Small bumps for feet, ultra-technical movement and finicky gear (the largest piece is a ¾” TCU). FA: Beth Rodden, 2008 | 21m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon Generator Station | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Conductor Crack
| 15m | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Generator Crack
A classic Yosemite wide crack climb. A slightly overhung crack starts with stacks and finishes with an exciting squeeze chimney. A three bolt anchor is accessible by walking around the back side of the Generator Crack boulder. | 18m | |||
North Lower Merced Canyon New Diversions Cliff | |||||
5.9 | ★★ New Deviations
| 37m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Chicken Pie
| 46m | |||
South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum North Face | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Regular North Face Route
| 280m, 8 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Alien
| 240m, 8 | |||
South Lower Merced Canyon Turtleback Dome The Rostrum Jungle Gym | |||||
5.10a | ★ Jungle Book
|