Showing all 69 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sugarloaf West Face | |||||
5.9 | Crack Face | ||||
5.10c | ★ Happy Face
A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start. FFA: Aidan McGuire & Jerry Klatt, 2001 | 27m, 7 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Hyperspace
Pro to 1.5". FFA: Richard Harrison & Jay Smith, 1977 | 15m | |||
5.10a | Twist and Shout
Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts. FFA: Joel Moore & T. Phillips, 1977 | 55m, 2 | |||
5.11d | ★ Back in Black
Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium'[20649253] chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. FFA: Jay Smith & Karl McConachie, 1986 | 4 | |||
5.11b | ★ The Man Who Fell to Earth
Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205], then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205]. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start. FFA: Paul Crawford & Dan Osman | 24m, 6 | |||
5.11c | Only the Young Die Brave
Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'[20649103]. Pro to 4". FFA: Dave Kennedy, Will Chen & Mark Robinson, 1989 | 21m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★★ The Podium
Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Descend by rappelling from the tree. | 15m | |||
5.11b | Under the Spreading Atrophy
Start just left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express'[20649151] to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Pro to 3". FFA: Will Chen & Mark Robinson, 1989 | 27m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★ Pony Express
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5". FFA: Dick Long FFA: Gene Drake & Jim Hicks, 1970 | 61m, 2 | |||
5.12a | ★ Cry Uncle
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457] first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts. FA: Bill Todd, 1977 FFA: Tom Herbert & Paul Crawford, 1987 | 21m, 3 | |||
5.11b | Mackerel Sky
Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'[20649505].
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011 | 37m, 2, 10 | |||
5.8 | ★ West Chimney
FFA: Warren Harding & John Ohrenschall, 1953 | 91m, 2 | |||
5.10a | ★★ TM's Deviation
FFA: TM Herbert & Bruce Cooke, 1968 | 91m, 2 | |||
5.10c | Hard Right
Pro to 2". | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Pan Dulce
Pro to 2". Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297]. FFA: Dan Patitucci & Joel Moore, 1990 | 61m, 3, 2 | |||
5.12d | ★★ Grand Delusion
A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1". Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] first. FFA: Chris Clifford | 2 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Fat Merchant Crack
Huge pro 5" to 12". FFA: TM Herbert & Royal robbins, 1967 | 61m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★ Blind Faith
Start at the belay anchor atop P1 of 'Fat Merchant Crack'[20649769]. Follow the left-leaning corner up to the roof, then traverse right to finish with P3 of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985]. A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux. FFA: Jim Orey, John Bowlin & Charley Jones, 1973 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Sugar Daddy
FFA: Joel Moore, 1992 | 2, 6 | |||
5.12a R | ★★ The Ghost in the Machine
Descend with 60m rope in 3 rappels past top anchors for 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] and 'Grand Delusion'[20649721]. Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs. FFA: Ed Drummond & Mark Robinson, 1984 | 76m, 4, 20 | |||
5.11d | ★ Ziplock
This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985] and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1". FFA: Aidan McGuire & John Robinson, 2001 | 27m | |||
Sugarloaf South Face / The Fang | |||||
5.10c R | ★★ Bolee Gold
To reach the base of the route, climb the ramp at the base of the south face and look for the bolts.
Don't even think of grabbing those dangerously loose flakes near the arête on P3 and P4. With so many hanging belays, it may be no surprise that this route is seldom climbed in 4 pitches. Suggested variations:
Descent options:
FFA: Gary Anderson, Jay Smith & Rick Sumner, 1977 | 79m, 4, 14 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Hooker's Haven
Finger crack to the overhanging arch, with two bolts leading to a chain top anchor. Pro to 3". FA: Jim Orey & Charlie Jones, 1971 FFA: Mark Hudon & Max Jones, 1978 | 12m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ The Fang
Finger cracks to a tightening chimney. Summit the fang at the bolted top anchor and rap off. Pro to 3". FFA: Jim Orey & M. Vincent, 1971 | 24m | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Bird Man
Thin and difficult to protect crack climbing leads to challenging and sustained bolted face climbing. Rap off with 2 ropes. FFA: unknown | 43m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★ Talking Heads
Climb the thin flake shared with 'Bird Man'[20650141, then move right for delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the fang. Pro 0.4" to 0.6". FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1982 | 30m, 3 | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Stone
Climb up the right side of The Fang, then traverse out left onto the face. Tie off knobs on your way to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Talking Heads'[20650189]. Variation (5.10d): Starting at the tree, follow the finger crack up the middle of the face of The Fang before moving onto the knobs above. Top-rope this route after leading P1 of 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297]. Pro to 1" with slings for tie-offs. FFA: Greg Dexter & Steve Miller, 1976 | 30m | |||
Sugarloaf East Face | |||||
5.7 R | ★★ Harding's Chimney
Walk off descent. Variations:
Pro to 3" with doubles in the larger sizes. Bring 9"-10" pro if you have it. FFA: Warren Harding & John Ohrenschall, 1954 | 130m, 4, 1 | |||
5.11b | ★★ The Gallows Pole
Original variation. Climb 20 ft up 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297] before traversing out right to some flakes at the 4th bolt. Continue up sustained knob climbing and smearing to the 2-bolt top anchor. Pro: huge pro for the chimney if you have it. FFA: Paul Crawford & Rick Van Horn, 1982 | 37m, 6 | |||
5.12a | Bewilderbeast
Climb the first 2 bolts of 'Beast of Burden'[20650417], then traverse left. Face climbing on knobs takes you past 8 more bolts and 2 knob tie offs to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Gallows Pole'[20650357]. Pro: slings for knobs tie-offs. FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2006 | 30m, 10 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Scheister
Starts up the ramp left of 'Crushed Velvet'[241259787] and 'Farley'[20650705].
Walk off descent. Variations:
FFA: unknown | 130m, 3, 1 | |||
5.10c R | ★★ Blue Velvet
The last two pitches are seldom climbed. The start is located up the ramp at the base of the face between 'Scheister'[20650525] and 'Farley'[20650705].
After P3, finish with the last 20 feet of 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297] and walk off to descend. FFA: Will Cottrell | 98m, 3, 23 | |||
5.10c | ★ Crushed Velvet
Start on the first 20-30 ft of 'Farley'[20650705] then continue straight up to the bolted line up the face. Descent options:
FFA: Aidan McGuire & Scott Bye, 1998 | 49m, 9 | |||
5.10b | ★ Tapestry
Climb up the first 20 ft of 'Farley'[20650705], then head up and left to clip the first bolt (which is also the 5th bolt of 'Blue Velvet'[20650585]). Continue up and right past two knobs for 75 ft to the second bolt (which is also shared with 'Crushed Velvet'[241259787]). Continue up the face for another 75 ft to a horizontal crack, then head to the top. FFA: Bill Todd? | 61m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Farley
The last two pitches are seldom climbed.
Variations:
FFA: Jim Orey, 1971 FFA: Eric Beck & Steve Roper, 1971 | 98m, 3, 2 | |||
5.13c | ★★★ The Grand Illusion
Gaze in awe at this severely overhanging crack requiring difficult stemming and powerful finger locks. This used to be the last aid pitch of 'The Fracture'[20650981] until it was freed in 1979 to become the second recorded 5.13. Thin pro to 1.5". FA: Ken Edsberg & Jack Davidson, 1963 FFA: Antony Yaniro, 1979 FFA: Hidetaka Suzuki, 1988 | 18m | |||
5.12b | ★★ The Mini Illusion
Hand crack up to sustained overhanging thin finger crack with fixed draws. The hand crack protects with a 2.5" cam. | 34m, 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Taurus
P2 variation: 'Lady Luck'. FFA: Mark Hudon & Max Jones, 1976 | 24m, 2 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Lady Luck
Runout face climbing above 'Taurus'[20650861] heads straight up past 1 or 2 bolts. Topo is approximate. FFA: Luke Freeman & Bill Todd, 1976 | 24m, 2 | |||
5.11c | Pinch a Loaf
Thin face climbing past bolts to finish at the top anchor for either P1 of 'The Fracture'[20650981] or 'Taurus'[20650861]. FFA: Petch, 2005 | 24m, 4 | |||
5.10d | ★★ The Fracture
FFA: unknown | 61m, 2 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Dominion
Hand jams up a thin crack lead to liebacking and stemming. Finish the pitch on slabs and flakes to the bolted top anchor of your choice. Pro to 2". Descent options:
FFA: Gene Drake, Dan Hart & Jim Orey, 1972 | 37m | |||
5.12c | ★★ Captain Fingers
Lock and lieback up the thin finger crack to a 2-bolt top anchor. Tricky pro before the crux. Pro: brass nuts, offset nuts, and cams to 3.5", with doubles in the smaller sizes. Top-rope this route by leading 'Dominion'. Descend with a 70m rope from the rappel station to the right of the top anchor. FA: Gene Drake & Jim Hicks, 1970 FFA: Mark Hudon & Max Jones, 1979 | 34m | |||
5.7 | East Chimney
Pro to 3". Walk of descent. Loose chockstones have resulted in injury on this blocky, marginal route. Use caution. FFA: unknown | 64m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Morticia
Start in the corner with 'Lurch'[20651353] and traverse left around the roof to follow the bolts up the face. A 60m rope is just long enough for top-roping. Pro to 2.5". FFA: Aidan McGuire & Don Bradley, 2000 | 30m, 5 | |||
5.8 R | ★ Lurch
FFA: Jim Hicks & Larry Morris, 1971 | 61m, 2, 1 | |||
5.8 | Swallow’s Tale
Located right of 'Lurch'[20651353], starts at the chains on the East Terrace. Face climbing past thin cracks and a horizontal to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Monkey Flower'[241389279] and 'The Wanker'[241394559]. Pro to 2". Phototopo is approximate. FFA: Jerry Klatt, 2011 | 27m, 7 | |||
5.10c | Monkey Flower
Start at the chains on the East Terrace to the right of 'Swallow's Tail'[241380039], then climb the face up and right past small cracks and knob tie-offs to a 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail'[241380039] and 'The Wanker'[241394559]. Pro: small to medium gear, slings for tie-offs. Phototopo is approximate. FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011 | 27m, 5 | |||
5.11a | The Wanker
Start to the right of 'Monkey Flower'[241389279] in the left-facing dihedral. Climb up to the crack and join 'Monkey Flower'[241389279] to finish at the 2-bolt chain anchor shared with 'Swallow's Tail'[241380039] and 'Monkey Flower'[241389279]. Pro: standard rack. Phototopo is approximate. FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011 | 27m, 2 | |||
5.12a | Eastern Bloc
Bolted knobby route to the top of the pale egg-shaped boulder right of 'Lurch'[20651353]. Phototopo is approximate. | 12m, 4 | |||
5.8 | Hanging Jugs
Pro to 3". Bolt count is approximate. | 2, 4 | |||
5.7 | Scorpio | ||||
West Buttress | |||||
5.10b | ★ Short Toe
Bring a single piece of gear to protect the start. FFA: Jerry Klatt | 14m, 2 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Sacroiliac Joint
Pro: 0.5" to 3.5". FFA: Jerry Klatt & Ron Brown | 30m | |||
5.7 | ★★ Cryptogamic
Pro: 0.5" to 2.5". FFA: Jerry Klatt & Ron Brown | 30m | |||
Dental Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Cracked Tooth
Climb the diagonal crack, left to right. Cannot be top-roped. | 18m | |||
Midway Rock | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Self Abuse
Pro 1" to 4". Set sets of top anchors. Top-rope from the lower 2-bolt top anchor. FFA: Royal Robbins, 1967 | 14m | |||
5.9 | ★ The Diagonal, Left
Widening crack up and left. Bring gear to build a top anchor. FFA: unknown | 9m | |||
5.9 | The Diagonal, Right
Undercling the arch to the right, then pull through the squeeze over the bulge with some good jams. Bring gear to build a top anchor. FFA: unknown | 9m | |||
Sugarbun | |||||
5.10b | ★★★ Fingerlock
Pro: 0.5" to 1.5". FFA: Jim Orey, 1972 | 21m | |||
5.11c | ★ Dog Flight
Pro: 0.5" to 1". FFA: Al Swanson & John Nye | 24m, 3 | |||
5.7 R | Fly Trap
Pro: 0.5" to 4". FFA: unknown | 24m | |||
5.10c | ★ Mad Dog
Pro: 0.4" to 2". FFA: unknown | 24m | |||
5.9 | ★★ East Corner
Pro to 4". FFA: unknown | 23m, 1 | |||
Left Over Buns | |||||
5.6 | Smokestack
The giant squeeze chimney facing west from the Left Over Bun. | 12m | |||
unknown hard route
Unknown name. The hard route directly under the great overhang. Goes up thin cracks which run out, with an overhanging crux section mantling finally onto a ledge. A young oak grows close to it. | 12m, 1 | ||||
5.9 | Heart of Sharpness
Follows a crack and ramp on a peripheral rock southwest of the main Sugarbun. | 12m, 1 | |||
5.6 | Centipede Shuffle | 12m |
Showing all 69 routes.