Routes as trad in Fife

The quartz-filled crack at the back of the recess. Climb it and step left into Ugh when you reach the roof. Belay with the tree stump on the terrace.

Stark on the terrace, near the tre stump, where it says 'KEN'.

There's a white-ish corner above a terrace (3m right of Squirrel Slab), and to the left of it a small roof can be seen. Climb from the bottom of the corner, to directly underneath the small roof. From here move slightly leftwards to climb the left edge of the wall above, without moving into Squirrel Slab.

1). The overhanging crack at the back of the bay is well protected and leads to a good belay ledge. Cams needed for the belay. 2). From the bottom terrace, climb the corner right in front which has a white patch on the left at the bottom. If you finished the pitch higher up, traverse slightly right to be on top of the white patch, and climb up on good rounded holds.

Go right at the small roof, then back left.

a slightly harder version taking the roof direct.

This takes the wall (buttress) to the right of Gaucho and left of Rebel's Groove. Avoiding holds and gear from either of the climbs left or right (eliminate), climb the crack in the pillar to a ledge (same ledge of Rebel's Groove, and from there climb straight up to a blunt black rib. There's a creaky/shaky/loose flake that you inevitably use to overcome the bulge. From top of the bulge, continue straight up to the top.

UPDATE 30/04/2021: The shaky flake(s) have both fallen off leaving a large scoop of dirt. The grade is now unknown. Climb with caution.

Climb a series of shallow corners that you will find about 3m left of Guano. The crux (not well protected) is the protruding nose. Finish above climbing past the gorse plants.

Find the big flake (5m wide) of Flake and Wall, and climb its left edge/arete without bridging into the main cliff wall. Poorly protected but some decent committing moves.

There is a bit of quartz on a wall just left of Destiny Groove. Climb this to a 'porthole' and keep climbing to the triangular roof. Climb straight up the Beak (nose, crux) without escaping left of right if you want to claim the grade. Protection is poor throughout. Bolt belay.

Goes up the pillar between Welly Wall and Eureka. If you find Eureka, climb the wall immediately left avoiding holds of Eureka, and whithout fully stepping left into the slanting ledge.

A natural eliminate between Termination and Eureka, without using holds or protection of either. From exactly below the small overlap with an obvious large undercling, climb straight up. Reaching the undercling is protected from below. The crux (above) is unprotected. Commitment and determination will see you through. Worth it if climbed purely.

The crack at the extreme right end of the cliff. Don't bridge out behind you for the grade.

The extreme left edge of the west face. Climb finger slots to an obvious ledge, then finish up the tiny corner, or move right to finish as for Sunsetter to avoid dirty top-out. Possible to escape left from the ledge now that the ivy has been partly cleared, giving a nice boulder problem (font 5+?).

To the right of 'Slots' climb the disjointed cracks to finish up either of the two shorter cracks.

Direct wall climbing to the right of 'Sunsetter' gains the wide crack below the highest point of the wall after moving slightly left.

Where the normal route diverges left, continue straight up via the thin crack.

Enjoyable climbing up the fat crack in the centre of the wall to a ledge before finishing directly up the twin cracks.

An alternative start, climbing the wall below the top cracks directly, and a finish which eliminates the right crack, make the route a grade harder, but both variations are highly contrived.

The thin crack and wall to the left of 'White Ensign'.

The obvious wide crack to the left of the right arete.

Follows thin cracks up the wall to right of of 'White Ensign', without straying onto that route or too close to the arete.

The right arete, staying left. Bold. Using both sides of the arete may be slightly easier.

The left arete, staying on the right. Bold.

Start 2m right of the left arete and climb more or less straight up. Bold but easing with height, and often escapable.

Left veering crack. Hardest moves are at the bottom. Since Feb 2023 it has an ugly yellow microcam sticking out the crack at the top.