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Fontainebleau

Seasonality

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F
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Description

The holy grail of bouldering. Every serious boulderer should visit Fontainebleau at least once in their life. You'll find a beautiful landscape, perfect rock and the need for a wide variety of climbing skills!

Circuits

The thing that makes Fontainebleau unique is the accessibility of the climbing. Kids, beginners, intermediate climbers and even pros will find loads of boulders they can climb on in almost every part of Font.

This is further emphasized by the famous circuits. They work similarly to bouldering gyms, where each color represents a certain grade range. Just like you would walk around the gym and climb routes with the right color for you, you walk around the forest here and climb on boulders marked with a certain color. Each boulder is marked with an arrow, number and sometimes even dots marking footholds to be used. The circuit follows a logical line from start to finish, with the last boulder often being a glorious finish with a nice view. You aren't required to follow the circuit from start to finish, feel free to pick any boulders in any color - usually you will have various colors next to each other, just like in a gym. Read more info on circuits here.

Here on TheCrag each circuit color has a different Area. Even though two boulders can be on the same block, they belong to a different Area since there isn't any better way how to structure them. Some boulders don't belong to any circuit so you can find them in the Off-circuit Area.

Circuits always have two things:

  1. Color. In order from easiest to hardest: Yellow, Orange, Blue, Red, Black, White. But white is sometimes used for kids and also various other colors are used occasionally.

  2. Abbreviation: PD - easy, AD - advanced, D - hard, TD - very hard, ED - extremely hard. The abbreviations can have a plus or minus sign to further specify the difficulty (PD+ is harder than PD- but still easier than AD-)

Guidebooks

There are many guidebooks for Fontainebleau and you can find them at the sidebar here. Make sure to pick those that cover the sectors, grades and areas you are interested in. Also keep in mind some don't cover traverses.

The challenge with paper guidebooks is they are quickly outdated, since circuits often change, appear, and disappear. That's why it is worth to also use online sources. The app Boolder is amazing for finding boulders, and the best part is that it's free run by volunteers.

Bleau.info is the ultimate database for Fontainebleau with detailed information on each boulder, circuit and sometimes topos.

Topo Bleau has more information on circuits and topos

The area is mainly taken care of by CoSiRoc where you can find some topos as well as recent news

Where to go

With so many options, it's really hard to choose which part of Fontainebleau should you go to climb. It's best to start by considering which factors are important to you: accessibility by public transport when you don't have a car, what grade you climb, whether you prefer safe landings and boulders that aren't too high, if you are bringing kids, if it rained recently and you need a location that is dry, if it's the weekend and you want to avoid crowds... once you consider these, check this article to get some location tips

When to go

You can come at almost any time of the year. Winter and early spring has the advantage of best friction for hard bouldering, but the weather may not be too pleasant. Spring, Summer and Autumn will have worse friction but more enjoyable temperatures and longer days. Also the chances of rain are a bit lower.

Rain

Rain is the worst enemy of climbers in Fontainebleau. When it rains, the sandstone gets wet - it's almost impossible to climb on it and also it gets very fragile. So when the rocks are wet, never climb on them. Bleau Météo is a dedicated weather forecast service run by a climber, which is useful for knowing about expected conditions. Weather Apps such as Windy are also handy when they show the rain radar with approaching rain clouds. Thanks to these you can see it sometimes rained in one sector but not another which is further away.

Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

Located close to Paris, so there are many options to get there. Generally, a car is recommended to reach most of the sectors. From the La Musardière campsite, the Trois Pignons sectors can be easily reached by bike (or even by foot)

Trains to Bois-le Roi and Fontainebleau-Avon leave from the Gare de Lyon in Paris. From them, several sectors can be reached by a short hike of about 30min.

Where to stay

SLEEPING IN THE FOREST ("bivouac"), IN YOUR TENT OR A CAMPERVAN IS PROHIBITED.

ISATIS IS NOT A CAMPING GROUND, DO NOT PARK YOUR CAMPERVAN THERE, DO NOT SET UP A TENT - YOU WILL GET FINED AND YOU WILL PISS OFF THE LOCALS.

Campsite La Musardière for direct access to the Trois Pignons area. Free campsite in Bourron-Marlotte. Many gîtes (B&Bs) can be found, often tended by climbers.

Ethic

ALL FIRES ARE PROHIBITED IN THE FOREST

NO CIGARETTES !!! NO STOVES !! NO OPEN FLAMES

The sandstone is fragile. To preserve the area (and the climbs) please adhere to the following rules:

  1. Use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards (including huge tick marks).

  2. Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock!

  3. Clean the bottom of your climbing shoes removing all sand and dirt before any climb. This is essential to limit rock erosion.

  4. DONT CLIMB ON WET ROCK!!!!

  5. Night climbing is prohibited to reduce the impact on the animal habitat.

  6. Dont use the base of the routes as your toilet. Go into the forest a little further off the track or out of the area for a 1 and dig a hole for a 2.

Respectons Bleau

Bien grimper

History

History timeline chart

1908 the Paris Alpine club marked the first parcours to practice techniques for the higher mountains. Since then, Fontainebleau has always been on the forefront of the development of bouldering. Examples are 'L'Angle Allain' 5+ (1935, Pierre Allain), "La Marie Rose" 6A (1946, René Ferlet), 'La Joker' originally 6C, nowadays a hard 7A (1952, Robert Paragot), 'L‘Abbatoir' 7A (1960, Michel Libert), 'Le Carnage' 7B (1983, Jérôme Jean-Charles, 1983), 'La Bérézina' 7C (1977, Pierre Richard), 'C‘était demain' 8A (1984, Jacky Godoffe), 'Fat Man' 8B (1984, Jacky Godoffe).

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
6,163
15.7k
4m
308
2,324
3,957
3m
45
1,950
3,998
4m
76
2,040
981
4m
Apremont sector
2,950
3,022
4m
26
Franchard sector
2,997
5,132
3m
41
Larchant sector
1,721
2,271
5m
25
Cuvier sector
2,576
2,420
4m
20
Coquibus sector
892
67
Nemours sector
1,262
1,301
5m
15
Malesherbes sector
782
841
4m
39
2,294
1,394
7m
7
-
0
0
Unclassified unknown area
6
7

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9789080749276

A selective guidebook detailing 5,286 straight up boulder problems in Greater Fontainebleau that are graded between Font 5- and 6c+. The guidebook covers 70 different areas to the north, west and south of Fontainebleau.

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781873665152

This is a selective guidebook describing the very best areas in the forests of Fontainebleau, and is aimed at groups of mixed climbing abilities who all want to climb in the same general area, covering over 7,600 problems and 123 circuits.

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9781873665237

This is a selective guidebook describing the quieter and less frequented bouldering areas of Fontainebleau that will enable you to escape from the crowds or visit somewhere new, covering over 9,000 problems from Fb 1a to Fb 9a.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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