Showing all 37 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | ||||||
28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
Aaron Jones
2
28
52
lead by
Lee Cujes
Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!
3
25
30
Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.
4
24
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.
6
22
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.
9
10
25
lead by
Lee Cujes
I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes. | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
32 ~31 | ★★ Whistling Kite - with Sammi, Erik Smits | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So, so happy to come full circle this particular journey that has so much meaning because of Duncan and his role in my climbing and life. 10 days, but split by 17 years. So crazy. In this instance, the grade of the route has no meaning to me. But with few repeats it's probably important to at least contribute an opinion. Two of the seven previous ascentionists have suggested 31 for a pre-placed gear ascent. I'm happy enough to agree with that, noting that when this route is led placing the gear, which I see happening soon, I feel 32 is deserved. [19]
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Thu 18th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Yesterday — 2 attempts - with @1293 | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Big onsight fight which ended in utter exhaustion right below the crux. So destroyed. Was happy to pull it together next shot.
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape — 3 attempts - with @1293 | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice mix of styles in a shady position. Not as many kneebars as I was hoping! 3rd shot.
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Tue 16th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 Hard | ★★★ FinaI Departure — 3 attempts - with @1293 | 27m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a ripper. Mega quest up an imposing wall with a bouldery crux. 3rd shot.
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm — 2 attempts - with @1293 | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Failed the onsight, was pretty baffled by the traverse sequence. Fun and games trying to a) locate and b) place the wire in what is actually your handhold and isn't very obvious as a piece. I understand the history, but in the broader context of climbing, this is bizarre. I guess it makes it memorable!
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Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 | ★★ Gravel Rash | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sometimes it feels like the onsight was really close. Not in this case. Would never have happened! Off-finger crack through a roof. Don't watch this video if you want to onsight it https://youtu.be/iVlE2a14xr0
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Pit Fighter - with Erik Smits, @1293 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Managed to hang on and get it done. Happy to do this one in a day. I wanted to climb it placing the gear, hence the ground up effort, but stripping such a steep route each time requires some serious motivation. Maybe one day, but for now I'm content. [3] Footage: https://youtu.be/UTzYm7htdu8
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Sat 16th Apr 2016 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Not All There - with Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeating for the extension.
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Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Seamstress | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A searing, white, marble seam which splits off the old classic Windjammer, at half height. I preplaced the gear (tiny wires) like the first ascent team. It's certainly doable placing the gear, and doable to onsight - for a trad gun
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Thu 1st Oct 2009 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thanks CRUX mag beta. [4]
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Thu 24th May 2007 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
30 29 | ★★★ Serpentine | 75m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Last day of trip, last shot, sun setting, belayed by HB himself. What's better than Mega Classic? 7th shot over 4 days. I can quit climbing now.
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Sun 13th May 2007 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice warm up.
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Almost onsight - overshot the dyno! 2nd shot. Old school flavour.
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Happy with that one. 3rd shot on lead. 8 all up. 3 yrs. [3/8]
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Sat 8th Jul 2006 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
25 | ★★ Hard Nose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
nice blazing sun
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26 | ★★★ Hard Nose DS | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The obvious way to climb it. [2/3]
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Sun 25th Jun 2006 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
warm up
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Mon 6th Mar 2006 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda | 60m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Five days on, surprised I managed this. 3rd shot.
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Sat 4th Mar 2006 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sustained climbing with a hard traverse. 3rd shot.
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28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took a leak mid-way on the redpoint. 3rd shot.
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Thu 2nd Mar 2006 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very close to the onsight. 2nd shot.
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Sun 7th Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 25th Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
27 | Hallowed Ground | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
thin, sustained, with powerful crux. 4th ascent. [4/6]
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Sun 22nd May 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
27 | ★★★ The Lord's Prayer | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very thin gear. Very happy Lee. [2/4]
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Mon 3rd May 2004 - Brooyar | ||||||
Green Lane | ||||||
25 | ★ Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
2nd shot
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Sat 27th Mar 2004 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
25 | ★★ Dagda | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Downclimbed Maponus p1, leaned across to first bolt and climbed from there. This is the route's second ascent.
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Tue 30th Dec 2003 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Light Fingered Maddison (Light Fingered Madison) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slippery little sucker - 3rd shot!
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Fri 15th Aug 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
warm up
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Sun 8th Jun 2003 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Sharks fin | ||||||
23 | ★★ Shark's Fin | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second shot Skidmore, at it again! [pic]
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Sun 9th Mar 2003 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three shots. Two days. First day was 06/1999.
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Sat 2nd Nov 2002 - Serpent | ||||||
Shotgun Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Semi Auto | 15m | ||||
very hard for the grade. (1st shot 01/1998. pinkpoint 2/11/2002)
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Sun 6th Oct 2002 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove | ||||||
25 24 | ★★ Kanoon | 12m, 4 | ||||
3rd shot. Huge steep dyno crux
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Mon 1st Jun 1998 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
23 | ★★ Rude Awakening (Rude Awakenings) | 5m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
[2/4]
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22 | ★ Cattle Prod | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
[1/4]
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1998 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
21 20 | ★★ Pilot Error | 12m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
second shot
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Thu 1st May 1997 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
21 | ★★ Yankee Logic | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
[1/3]
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Showing all 37 ascents.