Ascents in New Nowra - Braidwood Road by Trevor Kettlewell

Always good enough holds, crimps then jugs, but I need to come back with more muscle and less fat.

Pumped out by the time I got a sequence (needed it) for the start - even exploiting every advantage of the boulders (but skipping them ups the grade to something still very doable). Afterwards no great rests but good holds.

Pumpy start, but enough jugs to help you get up to somewhere you can stand. Fun.

Add another slightly committing move at end if you want to go level, not just clip anchors from below.

Fun move, a bit exposed, stepping on tiny lip to cross between two walls, then juggy enough to turn back onto the original face, friendly slabbing to final bolts.

I reckon this may have been a 12 on the indicated line a few years ago, but suspect a big footer has come off on the way to the first bolt - there's clearly a spot where something large has come off, and the area, particularly low, we found was liable to just have rock flaking off if you pulled on it.

I'm still claiming it using a metre or two start to the left of the bolt, then moving back right to follow the bolts - from tnen on friendly. 12 then just a little sandbagged - otherwise ludicrous sandbag.

Nice varied climbing (spoilers). I went crimpy left at the 2nd bolt to avoid a water feature, but more juggy pumpy right also doable alternative. Nice laybacking in middle as long as you've some strength. Feels a little desperate traversing towards the finish but reach diagnally left to saviour hold. Finish fine if just tapping bolts on a top-rope - way more demanding if hanging on overhang leading clipping them.

Next time - I worked out the crux move 2nd attempt.

Making it very clear I've got no crack technique - and then things just got harder on the blank wall in the 2nd half.

Another tough finish after friendly slabbing

Last moves on this wall seem to be the cruxes

Got some rope assist on that last move...

Back on a dry day

All fun and games until the hail started

Perhaps foolishly did the whole thing belaying from the bottom because we happened to have an 80m rope. With the anchors around the corner over the top super grind on the lower down.

Got the moves eventually

Just did the pumpy start up to where it gets slabby (and, I suspect, much harder). Fun though, although super sweaty day my shirt was a biohazard.

Felt a bit epic on a 30 degree massively humid day. Also a temporary gushing waterfall nearby, one I'd never seen in many days at the Lair - good to take an (icy) shower in. Maybe a 15 if you knew the moves, dramatic dyno start for me.

A few holds been pulled off this one, hey.

Gotta get 'em all

Another run to clean

Was leading it but got up to the 3rd bolt before realising the all the draws for were on the harness of my belayer. Came back down and did a mix of top rope and lead, and got more on top of the funky layback high feet start.

Weird. Client what look like all 5 roots on this wall today, but the one before bingo wings had the same start as Rodger ramjet and then after a couple of bolts went off to the right and finished higher after a cave.

Starting some beginners

I must have missed something - seemed really stiff getting from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. But otherwise a bit of a cruise.

Not sure which is easier - using the arete to the left, or going straight up. Both usable alternatives.