Ascents as Onsight or Onsight solo as sport by John Pitcairn

The least sustained of the three 19s. Short crux above the detached block.

Not bad. Low crux. On the softer side of 17.

On the soft side of 19, unless the left arete isn't in.

Didn't extend enough below the block, some annoying rope drag resulted. Jonno politely gave way for me at the pumpy top. Managed to place a spanner instead of a draw to make it pumpier Possibly not the first time today either. Good route.

A bit harder to read, a bit pumpier, less interesting.

Arrived late after slow start and wet after slip in the stream. Great fun route, many good rests, more overhung than it looks.

Neat off balance traverse in the middle, and it's not all over after that. Would benefit from a scrub.

Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.

Pretty straightforward and not worth a star in my opinion.

Bottom felt a bit dicky, but as usual it's the small pockets that are good. Eases toward the top. Too short to be worth a star.

This is pretty cool, a long rising traverse with some thinking moments. Still a bit grubby and gritty, and some fragile holds. Didn't need quite that many bolts. When the dust settles it'll probably be 19 and 2 stars.

A couple of degrees cooler, some fun monkeying around down low. You could make it quite tricky by misreading it.

Bloody good! Reminiscent of something at Arapiles for the exposed traverse and free hanging rap, just a tad shorter.

An absolute treat. Keeps you thinking right to the end. Definitely not 19.

Escaping the sun. This is bloody good, a great position on the arete, why have I never been on it? Would be 2 stars if a little cleaner. Had no guide, went too far right before the arete, wound up traversing left and clipping a bolt at my feet. If in doubt, go towards the arete. Bolts are hard to spot from below. Nice ramble up the arete at top.

This is to the right of Babs, and better.

Or this. Fun past 1st bolt in overhang, then keeps you working for a bit.

Can't remember ever being on this. Don't come off getting to first bolt.

Reasonably grunty crux, nice airy arete. Thought possibly hard 18 but seems everyone disagrees with me on that, maybe just having a good day.

Or this. Good moves up the arete. Came in from right at bottom but maybe you start up the crack/arete, dunno.

Don't think I've ever been on this. Hard start indeed (16), maybe the pockets had edges in the 90s. Might be a bit run out if 14 is your grade. But it's good.

Looks pretty dirty but plenty of pockets to stand in.

High first bolt then some slightly grubby horizontals through the low overhang, then up into a great slightly overhung bridging fingerlock sequence. Really enjoyed this. Solid 17.

Never been on this. First bolt felt high, then just keep it going on smalL but not tiny stuff. A little overhung, good body position will help.

Deserves no stars. Crimps and high-steps again. Not as good as Heart of Darkness, just harder but more repetitive and ultimately more boring. Got off just as the sun hit like a bomb. Lots of choss above these routes just waiting to come off, wear your helmet!

Pretty good, not just crimpy face climbing for a change.

Made the first clip harder than it needed to be. It's all over after bolt 2.

Hardish start and balancy clipping, keeps you working.

Wouldn't be good if you came off above the second bolt. Strayed too far left, hand traversed right.

Good short fun, some kind of slappy nonsense at the top arete.

Ok I guess. Anchors a long way back, hangers only. Traffic noise makes this crag unpleasant.

Quite good and absorbing for a face climb.

Bloody great! Slick right wall makes for some fun alternative moves. A bit of jamming goes a long way.

Meh, face climbing. Fun move right at the top.

This is pretty good at the grade, a fun move getting out of the overhang.

May have used a feature or two from Fuggin’ Jet Skis, but if those aren't in it's a bit bloody contrived. Frankly these are squeeze routes anyway, just one would have been better, and this also arguably retrobolts the trad line. Meh.

Some funky moves for the grade. Probably possible to make it quite hard if you read it wrong.

Some sharpish holds, need to keep moving.

Flows really nicely, original crux quite fun. Then dropped G four bolts and badly burnt my fingertips. Ack.

Also a bit off route left above bolt 1. Tired and not thinking well.

Probably a bit off route left at bottom.

Claiming onsight for the slab (previously onsighted the top on gear out of Lolly Scramble), with no use of the LH crack. Balancy, mono stack fingers and tiny feet. I rather like it.

Damp after rain and high humidity made it feel more like 18. Fun route with undercling traverse.

Easier than it looks. Had a peek around the corner at the trad line ... hmmm. Watch out for the nasty ongaonga nettle bush left of the start.

Bouldery start, the low bolt is not at all silly. The weetbix out right is sufficiently disturbing. Softish 18.

Grubby start. There's more gear than bolts, and that will make it more fun. Must return for a greenpoint.

Meh. Setting up short top rope for Rosie.

Pleased to get this, spent a lot of time balanced on my toes working out the moves on the top slab. Similar in feel and difficulty to the top crux of Great Scott.

Really nice route with a thoughtful crux around 2/3 height, easier up until then.

There are actually 10 (!) bolts not 6. Ran out of draws.