Ascents by Brendan Heywood having Distinct route

Super cruisy fun route

This cleaned up fairly nicely into a pure crack problem without the features to the left which we thought would be needed. Could be a couple variants. All over in 2-3 moves but still good fun. Still not sure I'd want to solo boulder it.

Pretty sure I've done this yonks ago, brilliant sustained jams and very happy to do it clean. Somehow managed to completely munt a rigid stem friend about half way up, it's now a permanent feature All three of us had a go at retrieving it.

Great little climb until the end and then a gross dirty scramble to the top. Crack gloves felt perfect

Benji and Ben went earlier and I knocked off mid arvo and trundled up stylishly late. They'd had a solid session and Ben had already cracked the crux which is just sick. Benji had a go at leading up the first slab and roof crack pitch. Apparently they'd had an epic cleaning session and it showed. After Benji retreated I had a go and "flashed" it. The caveat is I had been on this on our very first session here but I had retreated from the sea of choss, loose dinner plates, and since trundled death boulders.

Benji reckons its a legit flash because it's genuinely so different. It actually climbs well with a fun left hip stretching move through the bulge. Apparently there is a cave I need to explore in there which I completely missed.

Compared to the 60's death choss chimney I climbed last time this route is really superb.

Cruisy! Only put in 3 bits of gear, a bit windy at the start but awesome cool conditions considering it was forecast to be 28

We arrived at Balor close to midnight the night before so had a slightly relaxed start. Finding the start seemed fairly ok and I started climbing at 11. I was feeling rusty so let Ben have the first two money pitches, which mean I ended up spending a lot of time chilling out literally while he went on a wild off-route-finding spree. By the time I joined Ben at the rap it was 2:30 and I'd ended up aiding some moves through the mystery pitons and was deep in type II fun: some combination of too cold / too hot / dehydrated / wind chill / cramping badly. We did discuss bailing from the rap but we forged on prepared to climb at night and I estimated it would be a midnight finish. After a couple pitches the type II fun gradually eased back into type I fun. I "led" the top pitch just so I could say I actually placed a single piece of gear somewhere. As we scrambled over the lip we met hectic arctic winds off the summit. I arrived back at Balor on the dot of midnight Best summarized as we had a 'choose your own adventure'.

The boulder start to this is really cool

Based on the dust and cobwebs this probably doesn't see much traffic but it's pretty neat. If we hadn't left some gear at the bottom we would have been done for the day but it was a really great little one to finish up with. Nice to have some jams for a change and switch up the muscle groups.

Warmup

On pitch 1 had a little fun fishing out one of bens big cams which was in deep and I couldn't quite get my chest in deep enough to release it. The move over the lip to the midway ledge is cool. Ben started up the second pitch on dusk and I went up by headlamp

Awesome route! Only had a single 60m rope so we rapped down Neon God. Most fun I've had in a crack in a while

Not the best line at the cliff but another worthy line in its own right at the grade

This had Alan's gear and a top rope still on, so after a bit of creative fishing to reach down to the rope I rapped off and did a lap. Sat on the rope to get the crux nut out.

Usual story, flash pump and then had a rest, then clean to top after I was warm

Was going to second Adam up the tote but bailed with high wind and rain. Eventually jumped on this.

A little gritty, did the right crack start, chicken wings in big crack, crux hand crack I found pretty hard with cold fingers, spat off a footer close to the top. Rock is ok unlike the thing Chris L did to the right.