Showing all 12 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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25 | ★★★ Samarkand - with @1293 | 130m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | |||
I led the even pitches and Aaron the odd and even better — all onsight, a no falls day.
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It was pretty close for me on the crux pitch as I happened to run out of the cams I needed for the crux section at the 30m mark. I placed some pretty junky gear and hesitated for a long time, hanging off a jug on an overhang before finally committing to the overhung off-finger-sized crack. In full sport climbing mode I laybacked up it, got one working fingerlock and swung out of the layback (and almost off completely) before latching a jug with some desperation. It was exciting!
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Fun morning with a great (ever psyched) friend and back home in time for lunch. Very pleased to have finally done this one, and keen for more
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25 | ★★ Crystal Ships | 20m, 4 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Feb 2007 | |||
Happy not to blow this punchy number. Intricate upper section on RPs almost had me stymied. Not a pure onsight as I'd rapped past it.
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25 | ★★ The Low Down | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | Wed 20th Nov 2002 | ||||
My hardest flash yet! Thanks for setting it up Doug =)
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25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 | 28m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Mar 2006 | |||
The best pitch I did here. Thanks phil_nev for the beta!
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25 |
Crack glove
★★★ Echo Crack
- with
Aaron Jones
1
lead by
Aaron Jones
Quite the minefield of lookout-launched trash to navigate on the way. Could be a good Clean Up Australia Day site.
3
lead by
Aaron Jones
Pitch was wet and slimy. Mega effort from Aaron to get it done with no crack gloves or tape, sliding out of the crack with bloodied hands. I somehow stayed on, all credit to the crack gloves. A few odd pieces, then 4x #2 camalots in a row, then all #3's to the belay.
4
lead by
Lee Cujes
The hardest I've worked for a pitch of climbing in a long time. I was peaking. Admittedly it was wet, but even in the dry I would have struggled. Cracks are not my thing, and there's no escape on this pitch. For me personally, this was only slightly easier (1 grade?) than the crux pitch. I used 6x #3 camalots, 2x equivalent-sized hexes, 2x #4 camalots and this was only just enough for my level of comfort (4m+ runouts). You need all the big gear to adequately protect the pitch - you cannot supplement with anything smaller anywhere on the pitch. If I did it again (I never will) I would take 10-12 #3 camalots. A little safety note on the top-out: After clipping some carrots to stand on a ledge with a final 5m headwall to finish. This is protected by one carrot. If you only clipped this carrot (like me) and then fell on last moves topping out, the rope wouldn't even have a chance to take up before you broke both legs on the flat ledge below. Instead, there is a cam slot that is hard to see as it's in your handhold above your head. Roughly #1 camalot size. Use it! (I would strongly advocate the addition of a final bolt to mitigate a potential future catastrophe - you have just clipped 4 or 5 in a row, after all) | 190m | Blue Mountains | Average | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||
Cracks are hard.
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25 | ★★ Barbed-wire Canoe | 27m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jul 2003 | |||
Flashed on 2nd, by the absolute skin of my teeth. Pure desperation!
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25 | ★★ End Of Days p3 | 120m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Jan 2009 | |||
Pull out your old school bag of tech tricks to onsight this! Flashed on second.
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25 | ★★ Hard Nose | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2006 | |||
working shot. [1/2]
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25 | ★★ Dagda | 20m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Oct 2009 | |||
Linked in from Voluptuous. Dogged to remember moves.
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25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | Sun 17th Nov 2002 | ||||
1st shot (TR) 01/1998 to crux. 2nd shot 11/2002 all moves bar crux top roped
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25 | ★★★ Physical Meditation | 30m, 5 | Mt Stuart | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jun 1998 | |||
only got to crux
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25 | ★ Dolphin | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ Good | Sat 17th Feb 2007 | |||
"A 23? Okay I'll try this!" JJ's a sandbagger!
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Showing all 12 ascents.