Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Frenchmans Cap Area | ||||||
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route - with Henry Burt | 380m | Don't Bother | |||
Amazing scenery and quite unique to be on a wall this size in Australia. The devils staircase pitch is nice. The rest of the route is hands down the worst summer multi-pitch climbing I´ve ever done.
|
||||||
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Mt Blackwood Summit | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Who Among Them - with The Condawg | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
20 | ★★★ Airbourne - with The Condawg | 50m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta
- with
Connor
1
2
| 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 very nice & chill pitches. P3 looked gross. Rapped (1 with a 80m).
|
||||||
21 ~22 |
★★★ Dangerman P1
- with
Connor
1
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
18 |
★★★ Rajah P1
- with
Connor
1
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 16th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Rose Pink Cadillac Direct - with Henry | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing line. Sustained. Takes .2 to .5
|
||||||
Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Totem Pole | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play - with Henry, Pat | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
25 |
★★★ The Free Route P2
- with
Henry, Pat
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Thu 11th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Sky Rocket - with Henry | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Quite unbalanced route. I thought 2 nice splitters separated by lots of laybacking around teetering piles of choss.
|
||||||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Lassie's Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Ballyhoo - with Emily | 25m | Average | |||
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Heat Of The Night - with Emily | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route. Learnt a new word. Spooge. Note to self: spooge bad
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin - with Emily | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Cape Raoul | ||||||
16 | ★ The Wedding Cake Return Pitch - with Henry | 35m | Average | |||
22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer - with Henry | 40m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape - with Henry | 300m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Jihad - with Henry | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★ Rain Of Terror - with Henry | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Moai | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - with Henry | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up - with Henry | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
19 ~21 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Henry | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster | ||||||
7- A0 | FA ★ Joika Raiders - with Christoffer Martinsen | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - with Pat | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
|
||||||
Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | ||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - with Pat | 600m | ★ Good | |||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
|
||||||
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | ||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
|
||||||
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | ||||||
6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- with
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
|
||||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Sa Gubia | ||||||
Albahida | ||||||
4c | ★★★ Albahida - with Richoe | 220m | ||||
Got lost. Did last 2 pitches
|
||||||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Karavshin | ||||||
Ak-Suu Little Russian Tower | ||||||
6b 6b+ | ★★ ´Middle route´ - with Kjetil, Fanny | 300m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bailed from afternoon thunderstorm. Bottom half grass, top half was splitter
|
||||||
Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Karavshin | ||||||
Ak-Suu Pik Slesov | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Perestroika Crack - with Kjetil | 800m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
10 pitches. Bailed from storm. All pitches climbed were super high quality.
|
||||||
Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Karavshin | ||||||
Kara-Suu Little Asan | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Unkown West face corner & cracks - with Kjetil | 400m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good rock, great climbing. Shame about all the bolts
|
||||||
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Karavshin | ||||||
Ak-Suu Odessa | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Nazarova - with Fanny, Kjetil | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
To P8 then another weather bail. After P2, rock was superb Chamonix style orange granite
|
||||||
Thu 4th Aug 2022 - Karavshin | ||||||
Ak-Suu Pamir Pyramid | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ The missing mountain - with Fanny, Kjetil | 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Innika | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
|
||||||
Thu 30th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Innika | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 28th Jun 2022 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Hjørnet | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Ninjarisset - with Sara S | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Massif du Mont Blanc | ||||||
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi South Face / Face Sud | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Voie Contamine - with Eric | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super high quality route. Fun to be cragging at 3800m
|
||||||
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Salbit | ||||||
Salbitschijen Westgrat | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Westgrat - with Eric | 1600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Simul climbed till the 5th tower then ran out of gas & pitched out. Awesome ridge traverse. ~10 hours
|
||||||
Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Grimsel | ||||||
Eldorado | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Motorhead - with Eric, Sara M | 480m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crack systems are quite flared so there’s not much jamming to be had. Mostly friction slab & laybacking. Very chill & fun but felt a bit hyped. 1hr 30 to walk-in, 4hr30 on route.
|
||||||
Fri 13th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Nordens Ark Svaneberget i Sotenäs | ||||||
6- | ★★★ Bergkirstis Polska - with Sofie | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Like a Bohus version of bare blåbær
|
||||||
Fri 13th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Kungshamn Tullboden Melange | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Melange - with Sofie | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Thu 12th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Hallinden Hallinds Klack Vänster | ||||||
6- | ★★ Pulcinella - with Sofie | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- | ★★★ Eldfågeln - with Sofie | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Worth the approach. Take plenty of micro nuts.
|
||||||
6- | ★★ Våroffer - with Sofie | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 11th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Västväggen | ||||||
6- | ★★ Mutant variant - with Sofie | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 11th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Sydväggen | ||||||
6- | ★★ Barnleken - with Sofie | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 11th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Broberg | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Lassaley - with Sofie | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm up
|
||||||
Fri 6th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Hallinden Hallinden Branta väggen | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Stör inte blommorna på min led - with Christoffer | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Didn’t send. Didn’t see any flowers. Start was hard
|
||||||
Fri 6th May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Hallinden Hallinden Stora Väggen | ||||||
6- | ★★ Vad är otid? - with Christoffer | 12m | ★ Good | |||
6- | ★★★ Prismaster - with Christoffer | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ran out of gear & turned it into a multipitch. What´s Swedish word for joika?
|
||||||
Mon 2nd May 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Sydväggen | ||||||
5- | ★★ Uppkomsten - with Synnøve | 35m | Average | |||
4+ | ★★ Kaskelottens Återuppstigning - with Synnøve | 30m | Average | |||
5+ | ★★ Q.Robur - with Synnøve | 35m | ★ Good | |||
5+ | ★★ Vipera Berus - with Synnøve | 35m | ★ Good | |||
6 | ★★ Ormbiten - with Synnøve | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Lyse & Brastad Skälefjäll | ||||||
6 | ★★ Machete - with Kjetil | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6- | ★★ Stålfål - with Kjetil | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Lyse & Brastad Skälefjäll | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Hassan Chop - with Kjetil | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2 trys. Seemed a tricky one to onsight. Super fun route!
|
||||||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Nordens Ark Björkberget | ||||||
7 7- | ★★ Laybacksprickan - with Kjetil | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The knee didn’t fit. Got spanked. Rack was #2, #4 & a #5. Tree anchor up top to lower off
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Lyse & Brastad Skälefjäll | ||||||
6 | ★★★ En liten bit granit - with Kjetil | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
7- | ★★★ Granitbiten - with Kjetil | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Can’t think of a better finger crack at the grade. Beautiful climbing
|
||||||
Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Västväggen | ||||||
5+ | Börja om från början - with Kjetil | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
5+ | ★★ Palimpsest - with Kjetil | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
80m gets you back to the ground in 1 rapp
|
||||||
Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gandalf into Gollum to avoid some slippy parts. Vises, Gandalf
|
||||||
Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Vegard With Stennes | 95m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - with Vegard With Stennes | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården
|
||||||
Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Hallinden Högberget | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Café Olé - with Stian Bruvoll | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Full value climbing but god damn, this was heavy!
|
||||||
6 | ★★ Yamamoto - with Stian Bruvoll | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Västväggen | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Bagatell - with Stian Bruvoll | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6- | ★★★ DNA - with Stian Bruvoll | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Lilla Galgeberget | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Pyspunka - with Stian Bruvoll | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7 | ★★★ Masken - with Stian Bruvoll | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Thu 14th Oct 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Huggormen - with Sara M. | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!
|
||||||
Tue 5th Oct 2021 - Åndalsnes Område | ||||||
Framhald | ||||||
6- | Tashunke - with Christopher | 50m, 11 | Average | |||
A few cams needed for the start. The 50m pitches are a bit of a bummer at this crag; There’s bail biners halfway up a few routes. With the approach, rack & ropes it didn´t feel worth all the faff
|
||||||
Wed 29th Sep 2021 - Åndalsnes Område | ||||||
Romsdal Mongejura | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Sydpilaren - with Christopher, Niels | 1100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
16t bil til bil
|
||||||
Tue 28th Sep 2021 - Åndalsnes Område | ||||||
Romsdal Vengedalsområdet Romsdalshorn | ||||||
4 | ★★ Nordveggen - with Christopher | 220m | ★ Good | |||
It´s a pile of choss with very nice views
|
||||||
Sun 19th Sep 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren | ||||||
2 | ★ Gimsøytraversen | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 18th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Cornflakesveggen | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Ormen Lange - with Alexander | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)
|
||||||
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | ||||||
7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - with Ada, Ingrid V | 620m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Aug 2021 - Salten | ||||||
Bodø Fugløya Skiftnesågfjellet | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Skyvandraren - with Fanny, Ada | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 6th Aug 2021 - Salten | ||||||
Bodø Fugløya Ramntind-området | ||||||
6 | ★★ 3-stjerners karbonpudding - with Fanny, Ada | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | ★★ Syltetøying - with Fanny, Ada | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 5th Aug 2021 - Salten | ||||||
Bodø Fugløya Skiftnesågfjellet | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Jediriddarane kjem attende - with Fanny, Ada | 290m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Silhuetten - with Fanny | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finished up Silhuetten
|
||||||
6+ | ★★★ Alexis - with Fanny | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Pleasantly epic. Took extra 0.4-#1, which was nice.
|
||||||
Wed 28th Jul 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Masta | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Sørpilaren - with Fannny | 250m | ★ Good | |||
Thought we´d signed up for a casual stroll. Wrong. Climbs very old school
|
||||||
Tue 27th Jul 2021 - Tromsø | ||||||
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Zapffetoppen | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Vesterveg - with Fanny | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
6 | ★ Straight Albatross - with Fanny, Kjetil | 90m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Presten Stålormsrisset | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Stålormsrisset - with Karantene livet | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).
|
||||||
Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Northeast | ||||||
2+ | ★ Lofoteggen | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 23rd Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Jomfrupillaren | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Den Siste Sommeren - with Alexander | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
|
||||||
Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | ||||||
4 | ★★ Pedersenryggen - with Vegard With Stennes | ★ Good | ||||
Short rope practice / Vågarisset recovery session
|
||||||
Wed 9th Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset - with Alexander | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
|
||||||
Tue 1st Jun 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Breiflogtinden | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later - with Sofie | 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.
|
||||||
Wed 26th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
6- | ★★ Four pitch route - with Sofie | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
#4 for start of P4 nice
|
||||||
Tue 25th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Sjøsvaet | ||||||
7 | ★★ Lay-bye Layback - with Sofie | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs nicer than it looks.
|
||||||
Tue 25th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - with Sofie | 85m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
|
||||||
Mon 17th May 2021 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
7- ~6+ | ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Sofie | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
|
||||||
Fri 13th Nov 2020 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - with Vegard With Stennes | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs
|
||||||
Wed 21st Oct 2020 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet | ||||||
3+ | ★★ Back to Paradise | 27m |