Ascents in Oceania by Paul Frothy Thomson

Seconding Monty on the FA. Not clean -I got too scared on second on the traverse crux at the start (given there was 35m of rope in the system) and aided off a bolt out to the arete. It then also took me a bit to figure out the mid-height crux.

A very cool mixed route, IMO. The start is a funky bit of traversing (who doesn't love a traverse crux, right?) and the face section is more varied face climbing.

Bah, not winning Fell off a key hold well-above the cruxy start that for some reason was covered in sand. Its okay, future ascensionists, I've cleaned it up for you now

The start is hard, but super rad when you figure it out. The roof is strangely easy, given its absurdity, and the climbing above is relatively cruisy.

Totally worth your time!

2 Laps - just to the last bolt (24 to here) clean, as the last moves were dripping wet. Managed to punch this one out, sans chalk, placing draws, no worries whatsoever. Pretty chuffed with this, given that I haven't steep climbed in the 7 months since my accident. My core and calves felt it the next morning, though!

This is my favourite of all the routes on the upper ledge.

2 x Repeat attempts, not clean. Though I cruiiiiiiised the link from above the lower layback crux to the top, for whatever reason, the low-crux kicked my arse today, and felt grades harder than 24.

The finale of this puppy is wild!

Another repeat. A great way to access the upper tier of climbing here.

2 laps on TRS for training. Trying to build some steep fitness again! Despite being bell-quality-rock, I just find this super steep pupper so much fun!

Repeat. Rather stop-start, but the upper moves are my favourite of the crag.

Repeat. Absolutely cruised this. No way it was ever 23 (not sure what I was thinking?) Awesome technical climbing on weirdly good rock the whole way.

2 Laps. After a long morning working one of my upper mountains projects, this one felt hard today. Fun enough for what it is.

An enjoyable couple of days to get this sorted. Climbed as 2 pitches (linking the top two). Good crack and face climbing, with all the hard moves being bolt protected roofs. Marred solely by some sections of average rock.

2 laps to verify the route/quality. Really interesting, sustained, technical slabbing/face climbing. Now the easiest route to exit the crag with.

Clean repeat. Much better than I remembered it (and much easier)! Essentially 2 boulders surrounded by easy climbing, but both boulders are rad. With some rope management, this is very achievable as a giant single pitch.

Amazing, sustained, technical face climbing, and bloody hard for the grade! It took me quite a bit to sort the two main cruxes (I had to approach them very differently from the FA), and I took a huge whip from the very top going for a big link attempt. Beautiful rock, wild position, unique movement.

A bit more of a gnarly warmup than I was expecting. I pumped out on the last moves of the opening roof crux, but otherwise had no trouble with this route.

The start and roof boulder is great rock and wild moves, and the headwall is classy face climbing. Totally worthwhile addition.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. Just the one lap for fitness and to re-remember the beta for Match . I was pretty happy to put together the entirety of the upper crux section with minimal hassle, years after I was last on this. Amazing climbing from about the 5th bolt up!

I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves

Repeat. As I said before, if you stay out of the cave, this is actually quite fun, and the crux is enjoyable.

Finally decided to suss this route to the top. The moves to gain and turn the lip are mega, and the grey-rock face climbing above involves some complex and gripping sequences for a first ground-up lap.

Probably the most annoying part for me, is having to lap the lower 24 section of this route to get to the hard bit

Clean repeat placing draws to the roof (easy 25 to here) then I explored the upper section. The move to turn the lip is very much the 27 bit, but the section above it is probably another 25 in its own right (albeit with good stances before the hard climbing). The upper section is excitingly runout when placing draws, in classic Emil style

Clean Repeat TRS.

After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit.

In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up.

I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it.

Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County.

Clean Repeat. Revenge! Had to work at the top, but still managed to punch this straight out today. So much fun.

Clean repeat. Revenge! How did I fall off this last weekend? Still awesome.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. No real problems to the top boulder, but -absent chalk- it took me a bit to piece it together. Essentially, three boulders (each getting harder than the other) with easier climbing and good rests inbetween. The top headwall is super rad.

Clean repeat. Sweet! It's been a decade since I was last on this (when I ticked it) and it was rad to get on it today and just do it straight up, placing draws, without too much difficulty.

One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. Whoops... The unsend! Totally botched the crux. Otherwise, had a great old time. This route is always so much better than I remember it being

Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.

Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.

Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.

Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!

I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.

Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.

Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.

Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.

Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.

Short, but intense and unlikely.

The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.

An okay face climb.

2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.

An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.

Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.

A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.

Repeat attempt -not clean today. Frustrating. I first onsighted this back in 2016, and have never fallen off it since. Today, I got utterly schooled. Some big falls, much complaining, and a pathetic effort. The sun didn't help, but that's certainly not wholly to blame.

Clean repeat. Well, at least I can still get up this one despite weakness and temps. Still a personal favourite.

Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.

Repeat. Been a long time since I onsighted this. Though I found it easy today, I didn't really enjoy it. Very contrived, and on average (grainy) rock. A few cool moves, though.

Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing

Not clean. Great to have something new to do (all on gear) when you've done everything else here, but it is really contrived (and kinda hard to decide what exactly is "off route").

Regardless, it has some rad, powerful moves. With my busted wrist, there was a single move I couldn't do today, but otherwise it seemed "achievable"... maybe.

Repeat. My favourite route at Windjammer. Felt super relaxed and in control on it today, and got to the top without a pump.

Repeat. I remember this feeling nails, but I absolutely cruised it today. Super obvious, and super pleasant crack climbing.