Ascents by Trevor Kettlewell having Distinct route

First time I've lead this. So comfortable with all the moves, but still dealing with fear. Hopefully will be able to enjoy leading it sometime.

Nice to lead this for the first time. Again, just about managing fear not so much being able to do the moves. Glad I kept it together to climb down a bit when I started going the wrong direction, and also to urge myself through the crux. I'm such a wuss, but working on it.

Go figure. I'm normally such a top-rope woos, but felt totally fine leading today. The bolting is very friendly - you can always clip before you commit rather than after. So despite z-clipping at the start, and a slip at the crux, managed to hold on for, I think, my first 19 red point.

Cupla nice clean solo Fri arvo laps

Such a dramatic climb. I rate it one grade and two stars higher than Lesbian Bed Death.

After swearing I'd never do this route again (it did my groin the first time), watching Cadeyn do it without dangling his left leg into the abyss once, inching up on his right (the cause of my groinal destruction), I thought I'd try doing it sticking to the right instead of worming along the razor. And, hallelujah, I'm walking the next day! Just went to the 2nd last bolt and cleaned from it knowing how awful the rope drag is if you go to extra couple of metres through the chimney to the horribly placed anchors).

Left route at the bottom crux

Find this very sequency - real puzzle solving for me. Just a slight variation in the order of doing things or which bit of which hold, and it shrugs you off. Some cool moves, just don't try even a slight alternative.

Tricky start, but I could keep getting a bit further up each time then start from the bottom again. Pumpy up the right crack, not much for feet.

Mainly left of the bolts for a different but equally enjoyable climb. Just transitioned back at the last bolt, the crux on this variant.

Very comfortable today with recent beta, experienced belayer, no prior pump

First clean send. Thanks to Alec for putting the rope up (casually in bare feet) and confirming crux sequence: RF in angle hole, RH on round side-ish pull, LH undercling, LF in big hole, RF up on lip, big dynamic throw/spring LH to high straight up/leftish hold).

Pumpy start, just enough, desparate grab for jug near 2nd bolt - then very friendly (don't know about the 'balancy moves' at the end in the description).

Impressed by Jack finishing the run out lead on dead arms.

Spoilers ahead. Deceptive start - ignore inviting holds above and keep left for much better gaston to ledge. And make that right traverse at the end to do same finish as Orgasmatron.

Got to think about some bits like the start, and I was a bit rightish at the top bulge, but I think that was OK for a 19 grade. Nice.

Managed to fall near the bottom so I could start again.

Wouldn't mind another crack, took a wrong turn, it's not big on 2nd chances

Happy that I crimped through after the start, but I couldn't see anyway past that first draw without grabbing it.

Always good enough holds, crimps then jugs, but I need to come back with more muscle and less fat.

Took me about three goes to get the low crux move (stand on tiny bump, reach high), the rest OK but holds just before the anchors look better than you hope (one angle works if you know it).

Someone forgot to put anything for your FEET on this climb...

Didn't mind this - crimps to jugs all the way, doable if I don't take dead ends

Used all my pump getting the rope up. Did the moves. Screwed up the bottom ran out of steam. Also my belayer a bit distracted with the tide rushing in to try and wash the rope away.

Got the moves eventually

Lots of rope assist and a rest getting over and across the first 'roof'. Again, unclear if this finishes at the Velux bolts half way up. Not a lot more to do if basically jumping onto the 11 next door to finish.

Maybe better luck when the waterfall isn't running. Still pumpy.

Feeling cocky knocking over next door's 18, this '19' 2 or 3 grades harder. Tough start, then not much to rest on afterwards