Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Thu 30th May 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
Thu 30th May 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs White Stack | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mithras | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Resurrection Shuffle | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Smokin' | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point) | ||||||
16 | ★★ Pneisses | 240m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt.
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22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
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Fri 19th Jan 2024 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Blue Sky Thinking — 2 attempts | 25m, 4 | Average | |||
Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!
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16 | ★ Blue Skies From Grey | 18m, 2 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Can't Buy a Thrill | 16m, 2 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Asylum for the Insane | 22m, 3 | Average | |||
A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
15 | ★ Wide Horizon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Original ascent solo, rpt today
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17 | ★ Cliff Limit | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt.
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, exit.
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.
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23 | ★★ Moby Dick | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Lower | ||||||
19 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Cadbury Flake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.
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16 | ★★ Flake | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress
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Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
17 | ★ Little Frog | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
The Towers | ||||||
10 | Orchid arete | 7m | ||||
Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
20 | ★ Opium | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Red Head Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon | 10m | Average | |||
Wed 1st Nov 2023 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Golden Locks | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 on MP and in guidebook that seems fair, hardest start of the day. Stellar route once above the slippery start
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5.10a | ★★★ Cakewalk | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.9 | ★★ Razor Worm | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The most enjoyable route of the day
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5.9 | ★★★ In Pursuit of Excellence | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The 3 star routes at Piddington would be lucky to get one star here.
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Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Sanscrit | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough initial crack, then pleasant climbing through roof. A bit sandy.
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5.8 | ★★ Passages | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice climbing and protects well
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5.10a | ★★ The Sweep | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit manky in the middle ( with minimal pro) but fun start up V groove
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5.10b | ★★ Superslide | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely slab climbing
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | ||||||
★ Rats Alley | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.10a | ★ Biohazard | 34m | ★ Good | |||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Average | |||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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5.9 | ★★ Happy Hands | 21m | Average | |||
I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Albigna | ||||||
Spazzacaldeira | ||||||
5c |
★★★ Lasciamili
1
5a
30
2
5c
20
| 50m, 10 | ||||
This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Brenta Alta | ||||||
Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Pipot — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Bärfendal Välseröd Villskuddväggen | ||||||
7- | ★★ Vildvin | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought this was great, but confused by the topos. There is a shorter direct crack which we bypassed and went right along arch, so thinking it was this. Certainly felt quite challenging, great balance moves and some burly underclings. Could feel a bit sketchy placing gear on the traverse
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6- | ★★★ Villskudd | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One part was still wet, but it climbed fine. I found the crux to be different to Dave- the upper traverse had the feet too far away from the flake so it was quite tricky. Again more like 19
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6- R | ★ Ingemars Kamin | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The unprotectable ( without a #12) bit isn’t trivial. 27 crags converts as 19 which is probably fair
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4 | ★★ Jungfrun | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It was dry at least after torrential rain the previous day. Quite pleasant
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ Good | |||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Good sequences following Dave
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | ||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Store veggen | ||||||
5+ A0 | ★★ Senterlinje | 200m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Tromsø | ||||||
Kvaløya Ersfjorden | ||||||
5c | ★ Prinsessa | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting and quite steep.
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Tue 1st Aug 2023 - Tromsø | ||||||
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen | ||||||
5- | ★★★ Vårrusen | 150m | ||||
Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.
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5+ | ★ Gallionsruta | 250m | ||||
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.
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6- | ★★ Stjerndans | 150m | ||||
Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.
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7+ | ★★★ Thanatos | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | ||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | ||||||
4+ | Freya | 57m | Average | |||
Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | ||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | ||||||
6- | Hrafn | 65m | ||||
Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Lyse & Brastad Skälefjäll | ||||||
6+ R | Startpistolen — 2 attempts | 15m | ||||
Gnarly and no protection until half height
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6- | ★★ Stålfål | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice enough for a dihedral.
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6 | ★★★ En liten bit granit — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led it placing the gear but had a rest below crux, not a good warm up. Repeated. Really nice moves
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Hallinden Hallinden Stora Väggen | ||||||
5+ | ★★ I andra hand | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty good, quite cruxy. 50 m abseil descent from tree at top.
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6- | ★★★ Prismaster | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A few tricky sections, really classy climbing. Bonus wire freed because I didn’t know it was stuck. Dave led as one long pitch. Walk down
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Galgeberget Stora Galgeberget Sydväggen | ||||||
5- | ★ Knottbiten | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not as memorable as the others, but good to do a quick climb
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4+ | ★★ Kaskelottens Återuppstigning | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First route in Bohulsan, easy but fun
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5- | ★★ Uppkomsten | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Easy but just enjoying being back on rock, and what nice granite!
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6- | ★★ Barnleken | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice start and finish, easy in middle
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Häller Mallorolväggen | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Mallorol | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reaching up into the roof at the crux was a huge move, no idea what Norwegian 6 is, felt like grade 20
|
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
20 | ★★ Colour Card | 16m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt.
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14 | ★★ I'd Rather be Canoeing | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, nice climbing, very spaced gear. I’ve done my due in past times
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17 | ★ Visage | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19
|
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10 | ★ Significance | 7m | Average | |||
Rpt
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10 | Marginal Existence | 7m | Average | |||
Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days
|
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15 | Brand X | 13m | Don't Bother | |||
Some offwidth practice.
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
North Zenith Trade Wind Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★ Seam | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
The seams not the hard bit
|
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16 | ★ Twin cracks | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Nice cracks
|
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17 | ★★ Huecos | 35m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More nice slabbing
|
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Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
20 | Plum line | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle
|
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13 | ★ Stopper (Direct) | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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