Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 19 | ★★ Feeling Rampant | 30m, 7 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Mar 2008 | |||
Pleasant trad crack, then stiff move through roof to pleasant slab
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18 19 | ★★★ Wirilda | 70m, 1 | Asses Ears Area | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th May 2010 | |||
start of second pitch weird
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18 | ★ Noose | 22m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Thu 10th Jun 2021 | |||
Quite a fun climb, was probably the only 18 left with a star left to do.....
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18 | ★ Blood of the Christ | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||
It’s not R, there is good gear ( mostly smaller) the whole way up, it’s just a bit blind to place. Star for being in the shade.
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18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jun 2015 | |||
Blue cam size crack, yuck. Fortunately the other crack provided options
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18 | ★★ Sacrilege Crack | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Tue 12th Jun 2018 | |||
Quite interesting, not really offwidth climbing
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18 | ★★ Borderline 29 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2015 | |||
Position!
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18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Jun 2015 | |||
Beautiful jams for size 6 hands
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18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | |||
Had seconded via DS, but no recollection. Had to go some distance up YGH before I could step across, so felt harder than 18
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18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Aug 2008 | |||
Did the arete version to avoid the crack
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18 | ★ Bay Play | 10m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Aug 2008 | |||
little wires galore!
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18 | ★★ Jihad | 30m | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Jan 2012 | |||
Would be good anywhere
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18 | ★★★ Eurydice | 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th Dec 2007 | |||
Apart from bird poo and slippery rock the first pitch was nauseatingly good and the second pleasant
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18 | Mega Luv Jugs | 15m, 2 | Joll's Bridge | Average | Sat 28th Aug 2010 | |||
overrated. Horrible slab at top
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18 | ★★★ Flying a Kite | 45m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Fri 18th May 2007 | |||
Interesting traverse, then easy and exposed arete/face
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18 | ★ Stretching the Point | 15m | Point Perpendicular | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jul 2020 | |||
I may have gone a bit more direct at the finish than shown in guide book, but climbed ok. With all the trees dead, finding a good anchor was tricky.
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18 | ★ Steel Dance | 45m | Kaputar | Average | Fri 4th May 2012 | |||
About 6 metres of nice climbing up twin cracks. Take a big cam if you dont want an 8m run out like me.
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18 | ★★ Revival | 30m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th May 2010 | |||
Nice corner moves
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18 18 R | ★ Darkangel | 24m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Fri 14th Apr 2017 | |||
An interesting route, and though it's hypocritical of me, I was happy for the retro bolt because there wasn't much gear low down. We trundled a large barely held rock off a ledge immediately below anchors before it killed someone. May be a bit dirty for a month or so.
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18 | ★ Lonely Escalator | 50m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | |||
Less loose rock now. Nice varied climbing, but still needs more traffic. Quite enjoyed it.
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18 | ★★ Sticks And Stones | 33m, 4 | Mt Maroon | ★ Good | Wed 29th Jul 2020 | |||
You wouldn’t want to not on sight this. A fall would be rather dramatic given the spaced bolts and crap gear
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18 | ★★★ Sacred Site | 30m, 2 | Fortescue Bay | ★ Good | Thu 17th Feb 2011 | |||
fun but the good parts way too short
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18 | ★★★ Digitalis | 62m | Mount Wellington | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jan 2012 | |||
Led P1. Nice varied moves throughout
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18 | ★★★ Battle Cruiser | 74m | Mount Wellington | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | |||
Alt with Dave in the fog. Both pitches nice but some loose rock
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18 | ★★★ Suicide Sadness | 60m | Mount Wellington | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Nov 2022 | |||
Did as one mega pitch which is probably best avoided, despite good gear management and double ropes the last 10 m were painful. Great climbing
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18 | ★ Good Behaviour | Mount Wellington | Average | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
The first half was not bad, with an interesting sequence of moves
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18 | ★★ Pareora Corner | 15m | Mt Horrible | ★ Good | Fri 18th Mar 2016 | |||
A good spot to visit for a half day climbing. Great sunset. This route was nice.
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18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Apr 2007 | |||
Great line and great fun.
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18 | ★ Riddled | 18m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 15th Feb 2013 | |||
Hard to get excited about the rock, but probably fine
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18 | ★ Wascal | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Feb 2017 | |||
Not that bad if you are short as long as you can hang onto grade 23 nubbins
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18 | ★★ Gilt Edged | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Jan 2016 | |||
Led P1. Nice, mostly thin crack, and not too slippery.
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18 | ★★ Daily Planet | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 4th May 2006 | |||
reasonable pro, good moves, shame about the chimney start
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18 | ★ The Iliad Connection | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||
One long pitch with extended runners. Quite steep, but juggy. Good exposure
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18 | ★★ Cantata | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Nov 2014 | |||
First climb back here 2014. Led p1, rope drag made me belay
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18 | ★★ Jens Roof | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | Average | Wed 9th Nov 2011 | |||
Easy start, a few jugs then its over.
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece (The Golden Fleece) | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st May 2004 | |||
two nice sequences
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18 | ★★ The Stoat Steps Out | 8m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||
Short climbs are scary, but at least this one can be laced up
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18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 15th Apr 2010 | |||
18 18 R | ★★ Preservative Added | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 28th Mar 2008 | |||
a little hard and run out but pleasant
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18 | ★★ Falcon | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 29th Apr 2010 | |||
better than it looked, quite pleasant climbing
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18 | ★★ Voodoo | 65m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 25th Apr 2006 | |||
tricky crux move to warm up on
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18 | ★★ Transatlantic Crossing | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Oct 2015 | |||
Led p1, both pitches great airy fun
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18 | ★★ Huey | 16m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st May 2006 | |||
Finally an 18 that felt like an 18!
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18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 14th Dec 2007 | |||
THe L finish. Had slight problem with not extended wires enough.
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18 | ★ Free Beer | 30m | Arapiles | Average | Sat 14th May 2022 | |||
The good bit felt quite short, but not too bad.
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18 | ★★ Tales of Brave Ulysses | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | |||
Very enjoyable, accessed via creon
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18 | ★★ Golden Echo Variant | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 8th Nov 2011 | |||
found this corner slightly more reachy than original
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18 | ★ Ground Cummin | 18m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | |||
Quite fun, easier than Hurts
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18 | ★★ Hurts | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Dec 2020 | |||
Tricky start
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18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender | 60m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Feb 2017 | |||
Quite fun in parts
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd May 2006 | |||
I guess I ran it out on an Rp
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18 | ★★★ Caligula | 60m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Feb 2019 | |||
Almost an offwidth for most of the way for me, but undervertical which made foot jams the way forward. Luxury with 4 #3s. A bit hot, an ice cream shop would be choice. One long pitch.
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18 | ★★ Fer De Lance | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 5th Jan 2008 | |||
Full of moths, but still pleasant.
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18 | ★★★ Miles from Nowhere | 100m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||
Led P1 and 2 together for 65m. Quite a tricky crux for 18!. Even the chimney above was kind of fun.
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18 | ★ Dykes at the Docks | 35m, 2 | Killiecrankie | ★ Good | Wed 24th Feb 2021 | |||
First climb on Flinders ( close to camp I guess)
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18 | High Stepping Stone | 45m | Killiecrankie | ★ Good | Wed 24th Feb 2021 | |||
The ground seems too close for the first half, then it gets suddenly airy. Gave myself bad rope drag
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18 | ★★★ Simpleton | 85m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th May 2010 | |||
Led most of it except exit in 1 pitch . Stunning
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18 | ★★ Enterprise | 25m | Barrenjoey | Average | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
uninspiring
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18 | ★★ Marsupial Smearer | 20m, 2 | Barrenjoey | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Nov 2003 | |||
over the block to finish
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18 | ★ Borcat Blues | 20m, 2 | Barrenjoey | ★ Good | Sun 31st Jan 2010 | |||
dirty and scary in the sun
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18 | ★ Pinocchio's Nose | 18m, 4 | Mount Alexandra | ★ Good | Tue 20th Nov 2007 | |||
nice and traddie
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18 | ★★★ Gold Star | 58m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | |||
Did about a decade ago with tony Williams, alt leads
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18 | ★ Joslab | 23m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sun 3rd Sep 2017 | |||
One harder move with some slab splat potential if you go direct
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18 | ★ Traverse of the Gods | 52m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Average | Tue 10th Sep 2013 | |||
A bit of a rope management effort
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18 | ★ Sparrow | 18m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Wed 31st Dec 2014 | |||
Would have been poorly protected with 1 bolt
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18 | ★ Resonance | 20m, 1 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Thu 25th Apr 2013 | |||
Tricky start. Feels similar to the 2 routes to the right in grade but at least hasnt been too retrobolted
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18 | ★ Misjudgement | 27m | Blue Mountains | Average | Fri 9th Apr 2010 | |||
fingers hurt to crimp anything harder today
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18 | ★ Synchronicity | 15m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 10th Feb 2007 | |||
Some OK moves
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18 | ★ Terror Couple Kill Colonel | 10m, 6 | Blue Mountains | Average | Tue 7th Mar 2006 | |||
sun was in eyes and couldnt see the jugs
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18 | ★ Deathburger Highway | 10m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Don't Bother | Sat 10th Feb 2007 | |||
wet, crap rock.
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18 | ★★ Funnel Web Crack | 20m | Watagans | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jun 2010 | |||
Nice crack, but the conglomerate hurts
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18 | ★★ Grunt | 10m | Treatment Plant | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Sep 2004 | |||
good pro, great jams
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18 | ★ Cloud Free | 9m | Treatment Plant | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Aug 2004 | |||
good pro
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18 | ★ When The Turtle Shows Its head | 10m | Treatment Plant | ★ Good | Wed 29th Sep 2004 | |||
a bit of seepage unfortunately
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18 | ★★ Dopey Mick | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Dec 2006 | |||
dan ans John had chalked up all the holds
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18 | ★★ Visions Of A Transmitter | 45m | Mt Ngungun | ★ Good | Tue 27th Jul 2021 | |||
We had already done the DF as part of ensorcelled, so just did original. Can’t say I could find a lot of pro on the upper part, but the jugs make you just want to keep climbing. Pretty grimy.
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18 | ★★ Dogstyle | 25m | Freycinet National Park | ★ Good | Thu 27th Feb 2020 | |||
Quite hard for 18. Great range of styles and crack widths, though quite crumbly. Hadn’t read the updated description about a #5, as my #4 disappeared into the distance at the top
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18 | ★ Humpty Dumpty | 30m | Charleston | ★★ Very Good | Wed 12th Mar 2008 | |||
spent 10 minutes below the roof growing some balls!
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18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour | 30m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2004 | |||
did the hand traverse R hand start!
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18 | ★★ Skylark Direct Finish | 38m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Apr 2011 | |||
a hidden gem, deserves stars
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18 | ★ Good One Jono (POcketed crack) | 14m | Bulahdelah | ★ Good | Mon 9th Aug 2010 | |||
Not bad, but not araps
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18 | ★ Swiss Connection | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Nov 2013 | |||
Rock a little flaky low down, but fun enough
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18 | Mega | 10m | Arapiles | Average | Mon 23rd May 2022 | |||
Just do Hurts.
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18 | ★ Bung Crack | 12m | Wreck Beach | ★ Good | Wed 15th Jan 2014 | |||
A lot of options, at 18 take the easiest
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18 | ★ Crystal Enquiry | 15m | Kinloch | Average | Wed 10th Oct 2018 | |||
Nice enough but needs more traffic to keep foliage at bay
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18 | ★★ Waiwera (Brolga DF) - with Luke Yerbury | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th May 2022 | |||
Kind of what I did as the rain storm was imminent
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18 | ★★★ Far Away Places | 40m | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Classic | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | |||
Best done by climbing to the first ledge, bringing up belayer and then going to anchor from there. All the grades here feel stout. Chain belay and lower offs at top 35 m to ground
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18 | ★ Riding the Quayle | 130m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 11th Sep 2018 | |||
We did the last 2 pitches of this. Maybe started up Tschard to get to the Belvedere. Not sure. First pitch had a good undercling move through bulge to an alcove at 40 m. Second pitch went up a rib to right then trended left up nice intermittent cracks to the right edge of the Belvedere. Overall felt 16ish.
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18 | FA ★ Dummykins | 33m | Kaputar | ★ Good | Thu 7th Jun 2018 | |||
Not sure how this one escaped. Ground up, no preinspection, some shot put mid climb , but generally good rock, thankfully good small gear and a nice airy line
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18 | ★ Thimble | 9m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 7th Oct 2016 | |||
Fun little route. Lower off on ledge.
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18 | Pedestrian Crossing | 30m, 7 | Kaputar | Average | Fri 27th Jul 2018 | |||
I guess it's exposed. Dead tree start is not long for this world. Continued to top.
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18 | ★ Harzweg | 15m, 4 | Sisters Beach | Average | Thu 23rd Feb 2023 | |||
Felt sketchy in the spooge
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18 | ★ Well Hung | 27m | Killiecrankie | ★ Good | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | |||
Only a short tricky section. There is no abseil bolts as suggested in guides- we finished up the corner. There is a good threader 2 m back that would work with tat.
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5.10a | ★★★ Yak-Check | 650m | Yak Peak | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Aug 2017 | |||
Did the climb in 4 hrs 15 min, simul climbing until pitch 8, then doing the rest in 4 pitches, and soloing off. Still a 7 hr + day with approach and 900m descent on ball bearings. Fun outing
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5.10a | ★★★ New Wave | 80m | Devils Tower National Monument | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jun 2005 | |||
with a thunderstorm brewing and a spectacular sunset, with Frank, farewell Devils Tower
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5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Jun 2017 | |||
Felt a bit stout for the grade I thought
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5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Jun 2017 | |||
Yay, steep jugs
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5.10a | ★★★ Rock On | 140m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Aug 2017 | |||
Led1,2,4, rapped down. Great climb
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5.10a | ★★★ Thin Slice | 30m | City of Rocks | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Sep 2014 | |||
Very nice crack, racing the impending storm. Off to Wyoming.
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5.10a 5.10a R | ★★ Paradise Lost | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Mon 20th Oct 2014 | ||||
Just first pitch which is 5.8 or so
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