Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||||||
30 | ★★★ Firetail | 35m, 6 | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
Wow!! Beautiful Fire Tail, what a climb.
Definitely the hardest route I've sent and maybe the best!
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28 | ★★ The Great Escape - with Zalika VR | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | ||||
Get horizontal!
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30 | ★★★ Ethiopia | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
Magical. After falling numerous times on the rockover last year it was nice to come back and get it done relatively quickly this season, absolutely classic!
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27 | ★ Forced Entry Direct | 9m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
Didn't expect to stick the crux so had to hang around and get my trad rack thrown up so I could climb the rest of the route 😅. First move is desperate but the rest is great fun
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27 Easy | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 2 | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 9th Apr 2024 | ||||
Seriously had to work for the 2nd day flash on this masterpiece of rock. Trad climbing doesn't get better. Steep, perfect rock, long, and I had to power scream on the last move because I didn't have good beta. Bloody fun day out.
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27 Easy | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct | 35m, 2 | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | ||||
Peach 🍑 point. Half pre placed half red point.
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29 Hard | ★★★ Eden | 30m, 2 | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Apr 2024 | ||||
Insane position and amazing movement. Really feels so exposed up high on the arete with nothing below you! Clipping was my crux I grabbed the draw four times (past all the hard climbing). In the end I resorted or regressed to taping the draw to the left and extending it so I could clip ahah.
Could be hard for the grade?
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28 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
- with
Aaron Jones
2
28
52
lead by
Lee Cujes
Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!
3
25
30
Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.
4
24
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.
6
22
35
lead by
Aaron Jones
Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.
9
10
25
lead by
Lee Cujes
I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes. | 270m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.
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28 | ★★★ Animal Instincts Direct | 15m | Freycinet National Park | Mon 29th Apr 2024 | |||||
Sport | |||||||||
8a Easy | ★★★ Fun de Chichunne — 2 attempts | 40m, 28 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d ~5.12d | ★★★ Culo de la Negra (Extensión) — 2 attempts - with Maria Teresa Reyes Contreras | 43m, 20 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
28 | ★★ The Bats, the Birds and the Bees. - with Munya Johnstone, Aster | 35m, 20 | Mt Coolum | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
28 | ★★ Bats and Ladders - with Aster, Trent Cowell, KrystleJWright, Matt Raimondo | 35m, 17 | Mt Coolum | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | |||||
7c | ★★★ Blonde - with Kat🏔 | 35m, 17 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | ||||
Beautiful technical climbing on pockets and crimps. Favourite climb of this style!! Mega
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5.12d ~5.12c | ★★★ Betamina — 2 attempts - with Raky Trujeke | 35m, 16 | Guadalcázar | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Sex symbol | 38m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Sex symbol — 2 attempts | 38m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ I Have A Dream — 2 attempts - with Nettie Mclanaghan | 35m, 15 | Hữu Lũng | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Apr 2024 | ||||
27 | ★★ Force Cannon | 25m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ I Have A Dream — 4 attempts - with Lena Gurr | 35m, 15 | Hữu Lũng | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
Good fun! Took me a while to figured out the beta but really worth it!
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7c | ★★★ I Have A Dream | 35m, 15 | Hữu Lũng | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
Mega line .
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7c ~7b+ | ★★★ Darzost i krasota — 2 attempts | 30m, 15 | Vratsa | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Apr 2024 | ||||
One of the best routes in the crag. Cool longish moves up there. Hard 7b+ for dudes but definitely harder for ladies and shorties.
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8a | ★★★ Slap and Tickle — 6 attempts | 26m, 14 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2024 | ||||
Vertical endurance, not my cup of tea. Anyway, awesome route!
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5.12d ~5.12c | ★★★ Cafe con Leche — 3 attempts | 30m, 14 | La Presa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2024 | ||||
Increíble ruta. Tres pegues. En el último ya no creía que aguantaría mi piel, pero fluí chido y salió
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7c+ ~7c | Pfizer | 35m, 14 | Alto Mijares | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | |||||
7b+\c
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7c |
★★★ Affengeil
1
6c+
17
Good Warmup
2
7c
13
Extension is difficult to onsight. Good fun the second time around. | 30m, 14 | Kalkofen | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
Route reminds me of Gäsi climbing =)
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7c | ★★★ Epifania — 3 attempts - with Hernan Varela | 30m, 13 | Piedra Parada | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d ~5.13a | ★★★ Circo Romano | 13 | Las Chilcas | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Dream Weaver - with Lucy Vo | 22m, 13 | Cat Ba Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
5.13b | ★★★ 油门踩到底 — 2 attempts | 18m, 13 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Ignorrance is bliss - with tom gasser | 33m, 13 | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
made the pilgrimage to give thanks to the climbing god. Had a good time figuring out the crux beta. 5 goes total.
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5.12+ ~5.12- | ★★★ Virus de Gallina Extensión — 3 attempts - with Maria Teresa Reyes Contreras | 30m, 12 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d | ★★★ 1000 Year Old Nachos — 3 attempts - with 孟卓 | 25m, 12 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Gilles No Limits | 28m, 12 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ 青岛啤酒 Tsing Tao Beer | 27m, 12 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
Amazing to be back on the rock after a few weeks of no climbing and tourist mode! Very wet season and some wet holds but it was amazing nevertheless
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8a | ★★★ Can I Play with Madness — 7 attempts | 20m, 11 | The North Wall | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
Wasted attempts trying it in horrible conditions. Static beta with one deadpoint. Full static beta didn't work today( You better have at least 170cm reach. Absolute classic!
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27 | ★★★ Second Base With Grandma — 2 attempts - with Jack Brown, Oscar Bassi | 20m, 11 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
Classic climb but was a fight in the humidity today
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27 | ★★★ Spoonman | 20m, 11 | Mt Coolum | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
After squeezing this bastard for months I finally got the juice. Actually felt really good the whole way!
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27 | ★★★ Second Base With Grandma — 2 attempts - with Kallin Willis, Jack Brown | 20m, 11 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
28 ~27 | ★★ Grandma's Garden Path - with Jack Brown, Munya Johnstone, Oscar Bassi | 25m, 11 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | ||||
Unfortunately not a true 28. The rest before coming into GAB is a full reset.
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7c+ ~7c | Chestainikio — 2 attempts | 30m, 11 | Alto Mijares | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | |||||
7b+\c
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29 | ★★★ Greed - with Joanna Lazniewska | 25m, 11 | Onkaparinga | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
Absolutely stunning route. Lots of techie sections linked together, where you can fall at any point, with a stopper move final dyno to the glory jug. Whilst a few people have ticked this route pretty quickly, I ended up spending about 15-20 sessions on it, so it was at my limit, so it felt pretty good to clip the chains today.
|
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5.13a | ★★ 龙岩#41 - with CC | 25m, 10 | 乐山龙岩 Dragon Crag | ★ Good | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d Easy | ★★★ 陈年老酒 - with 大兵 | 17m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
顶绳一把,先锋放快挂细摸动作一把,第三把红点。两个难点的线路,比较吃身高。12d减
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7c ~7b+ | ★★ Anticiclonica — 2 attempts | 25m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
Muy buena, 7b+ segun la guía actualizada y va en orden. Ningun paso demasiado duro, resi en pockets pequeños
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27 | ★★ Geriatric Acrobatics - with Jack Brown, Munya Johnstone, Oscar Bassi | 20m, 10 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | ||||
Mega classic, 5 star route for sure. Everything flows and there's nothing awkward involved. Trust me
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28 | ★★ Like a Bat Out of Hell - with Aster, Jack Brown | 12m, 10 | Mt Coolum | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
5.13b Hard | ★★ 天空之城 - with 羚羊, 手哥 | 28m, 10 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | |||||
在状态不好的时候完成线路
周6 先是秋哥保护爬了一把“扶朕起来”11b 热身,然后手哥保护爬 天空之城,第一个难点没过(抓了快挂),到了knee bar位置,发现右腿小腿酸的很,知道今天状态很不好,爬到最后的抠抠点,抠了几下手指就开始疼了,一顿按摩手指。后面又爬了两把,都是在第一个难点抓了快挂,最后一把到最后难点前的右手大点位置,右手都开始酸胀了。 周日 先是给在路上挂66大顺,基本上是一路拉着快挂上去的。之后手哥来了,他保护我爬天空之城,本来准备爬一把收掉快挂的 上线还是在第一个难点抓了快挂。跟手哥沟通,觉得自己太求稳了,稍微感觉不太有把握就去抓快挂了,根本就没有拼一下。手哥说让我降到平台,休息10几分钟再来一把。我坐在平台上脱掉鞋子,一边休息一边思考,觉得自己完全没有去尝试拼一下出手,自己太求稳了,稍微有点难出手就去抓了快挂,想到这一点我打算下一把一定要去拼一下出手,哪怕掉了也无所谓。10几分钟后上线,第一个难点拼了一下,果然过了。一直爬到最后一个难点出右手抓耳朵片片时脱落,拉着绳子上去细分了一下,感觉到把左手的4个手指都抠上那个小crimp点再出右手会稳很多。 中午睡了两觉,下午3点多上线,爬完前面8米的简单段到达第一个快挂,这次感觉到身体比上午轻松从容了很多,跟羚羊说:我感觉比上午状态好很多。心里想着这一把可能有戏。之后过了第一个难点,在中间裂缝区域有三个好休息点,最后一个难点也过了,顺利完攀。之后去顶绳爬了一把“五线谱”10d。 |
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27 | ★★ Warhorse — 2 attempts | 15m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
YES SIRRR I FINALLY GOT IT CLEAN YUUUUPPPPPPO
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27 | Ecopoint ★★★ Like a Man on Pepperoni - with Lena Gurr | 20m, 9 | Flinders Peak (limited access) | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Jack Daniels — 2 attempts | 23m, 9 | Geyikbayırı | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
Lfg
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27 | ★★★ Weapon of Choice | 15m, 9 | Mt Coolum | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.12d | ★★★ In the Skin of a Lion - with Meredith Apple | 22m, 8 | Skaha | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
3 days and a bunch of tries but came together pretty fast! Stoked. Great power endurance cranking on small but positive edges. Stoked as hell.
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5.13a | ★★★ 情人节 — 3 attempts - with TU | 18m, 8 | 咸宁 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
应该比切纸机简单,最近很久没爬,然后昨天发低烧了今天还能完成
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27 | ★★★ Camel Filter | 22m, 8 | Onkaparinga | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
Great to finally send this! It went really smoothly. Classic route.
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27 | ★★ Onions - with Andy Brown, Lucy Stirling, Bob Brown | 20m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
IXc | ★★★ Migalhas Indecentes - with Camila Buttel, Caio Freitas, Eloah Gadas | 8 | Rio de Janeiro | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
8a | ★★ Just Call Me Helmet — 4 attempts | 23m, 8 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
27 | ★★ Fucked on Cocaine - with jonah, Tom, Rizzle | 16m, 8 | Blue Mountains | Fri 19th Apr 2024 | |||||
Second shot. Cool sequences
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27 | ★★ Fucked on Cocaine — 2 attempts - with gsmizz, Victor Rodriguez, Stephanie Levesque | 16m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
Re familiarised myself with the moves after about a year from my first session, got to the crimps and had to work out a sequence that worked for me but didn't feel 100%, and involved a deep committing heel toe cam. Got it second shot without too many difficulties but still very worried about falling on the crimps.
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5.12d | ★★★ 妖缝 — 2 attempts | 13m, 8 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
29 Easy | ★★ Tutu-sullied Flesh | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
Nice one. First try with great beta from Marty, but I think I've tried Temptation before years ago so guess it's not a flash.
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7c | ★★★ Surpriz #2 | 15m, 7 | Almaty | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Apr 2024 | ||||
Thanks to Kostya and Gulnaz for the beta)
But I'm not sure about the grade, with this beta it is probably easier. And I don't have a lot of expirience with 7c routes |
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8a+ | ★★ Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup | 15m, 7 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Tantrum | 12m, 7 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
27 | ★★ Eight Minute Abs | 12m, 7 | Mt Coolum | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
7c Hard | ★★ Mokri sanishta | 19m, 7 | Vratsa | Average | Tue 23rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Tricky problem
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27 | ★★★ Pink Rabbits - with Sally Jane | 20m, 7 | Halls Gap Area | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Disco | 16m, 7 | Unteres Inntal | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
9 | ★★ Atomkraftwerk B — 2 attempts - with Andi | 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
Heute noch 1x ausgebouldert und im ersten Go abgeholt. Das Plättchen in Laurin besser mit Bandschlinge nach oben hintersichern.
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9- | ★★★ Rihanna | 15m, 7 | Unteres Inntal | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Apr 2024 | ||||
28 | ★★ Tomahawk | 18m, 6 | Mersey Cliffs | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | |||||
5.10 D | ★★★ techo blanco | 14m, 6 | parque biotico peñas del gallego | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2024 | ||||
27 | ★★ The Syndicate - with Kamil Sustiak | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
Had a play to figure out the moves while lowering off the 26. The "figuring out" part took far longer than I would've thought. First shot on lead. Felt good.
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7c | ★★ Cuobo — 4 attempts | 15m, 6 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Playboy Connection | 15m, 6 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c | ★ La Cadoune — 2 attempts - with Rosi | 18m, 5 | Chateauvert | ★ Good | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
Dritte und vierte Exe verlängern hilft deutlich beim Clippen. Weiter Zug auf den Wulst und ebenfalls weiter Aufsteher am Untergriff vom 4. Haken.
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7c+ | ★★ Le Verin de l'Archipel — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | Chateauvert | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
Training für die Fränkische! 2 Fingerlöcher vor der Dachkante. Links anklettern, dann rechts rüber, das tiefe 2 Fingerloch rechts nicht übersehen und dann gerade hoch.
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7c+ | NN6 — 3 attempts | 5 | Tenerife | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
8a | ★★ Elephant | 13m, 5 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ Bugs Bunny | 13m, 4 | Mt. Benson | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ Bugs Bunny | 13m, 4 | Mt. Benson | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
28 | ★★ Bernie Loves Tofu - with jonah, Tom, Rizzle | 18m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | |||||
Cool boulder up high. Pretty diabolical though. Second shot
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26 ~26 | ★★★ Green Lane Grit - with Jack Brown | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
New beta found can only take 26 for it.
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7c | ★★★ Sikadur — 3 attempts | 12m | Bellus-Alboy | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ Easy | ★★★ Une folie meurtriere — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Vosges du Nord | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | |||||
The grades over the French border are noticeably less tough than in the German Pfalz. This route does have many far and dynamic moves in a very smooth wall over two small roofs. The holds are mostly very good edges, except for some crimps which are quite small. Probably fit my style very well, and did feel quite soft for the grade.
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29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 4 attempts | Barnett Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | |||||
A dream come true! Started the day with zero expectations after feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis flare up, almost didn’t have a final burn as I needed to rush home to the family, then all of a sudden I was clipping the chains! Shifting to the left knee bar at the second rest was a game changer as I could actually recover properly before the back to back cruxes at the end. Beyond stoked to have completed this milestone in my NZ climbing career!
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7c | ★ Urgent - with Mari | 25m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Could have been an onsight, but on the 9th day on I was happy to tick the route at all 😂
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7c+ | ★★★ Pour L´Amour - with buschlicht | 22m | Martinswand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
7+ |
★★ Adrijanskoga mora sirena P1
1
7+
25m
Gradually gets harder but nice for warmup | 25m | Paklenica | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | |||||
8a ~7c+ | ★ Sultan of Swing | Guanacho | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Le fil à plomb — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Vosges du Midi | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||||
Could send it in my second try today. The weather was better than expected - sun almost all day, so cold fingers were not a problem anymore. I found the lower compression part the hardest, and almost fell there during the send.
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8a+ | ★★★ Move to Babylon | Berglsteiner See | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||||
8a+ Hard | ★★★ Babylon — 4 attempts | 20m | Berglsteiner See | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.12d | ★★★ El caballero de piedra | Juntas | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.13b | ★★★ Vengo a amanecer — 3 attempts - with Amílcar Zubiría | METRI | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c/c+ | Bombus L1 - with Ana Štritof | 30m | Blažčeva skala | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
29 | ★★ Sea Air — 9 attempts - with Rebecca | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
Unexpected, despite I waking up hangover I managed to bring this home, sick sequence swapping hang on the pocket on the upper crux
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7c+ | Oriol - with Sam Pfeiffer, pinki | 35m | Montserrat | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c | ★★★ Face to face | 20m | Sparchen | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 |