Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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7c |
★★★ Affengeil
1
6c+
17
Good Warmup
2
7c
13
Extension is difficult to onsight. Good fun the second time around. | 30m, 14 | Kalkofen | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
Route reminds me of Gäsi climbing =)
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9a | ★★★ Les nymphes | 22m | Massif de la Sainte-Baume | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
8c Hard | ★★★ Stratégie barbare | 22m | Massif de la Sainte-Baume | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | ||||
8a |
★★★ Lipizzaner P1
1
8a
| Spitzsteinwand | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Move to Babylon | Berglsteiner See | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||||
8a+ Hard | ★★★ Babylon — 4 attempts | 20m | Berglsteiner See | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ 36-15 VO2 | 20m | Massif de la Sainte-Baume | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Apr 2024 | ||||
Harder if you are too short for let the right foot to catch the good hand hold in the crux .
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8a+ | ★★ Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup | 15m, 7 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Tantrum | 12m, 7 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
30 | ★★ Mr Meaner | 22m | Blue Mountains | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||||
30 | ★★★ Ethiopia | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
Magical. After falling numerous times on the rockover last year it was nice to come back and get it done relatively quickly this season, absolutely classic!
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8a+ | ★★ Desperado — 3 attempts | 23m | Tempi | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Apr 2024 | ||||
Nice route.
after the first crux of highway star move left to a boulder problem and
then you can rest before the final tricky moves
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8a | ★★★ Can I Play with Madness — 7 attempts | 20m, 11 | The North Wall | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
Wasted attempts trying it in horrible conditions. Static beta with one deadpoint. Full static beta didn't work today( You better have at least 170cm reach. Absolute classic!
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29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 4 attempts | Barnett Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | |||||
A dream come true! Started the day with zero expectations after feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis flare up, almost didn’t have a final burn as I needed to rush home to the family, then all of a sudden I was clipping the chains! Shifting to the left knee bar at the second rest was a game changer as I could actually recover properly before the back to back cruxes at the end. Beyond stoked to have completed this milestone in my NZ climbing career!
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8a ~7c+ | ★ Sultan of Swing | Guanacho | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Vengo a amanecer — 3 attempts - with Amílcar Zubiría | METRI | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
8a | ★★ Una piu del diavolo - with Flo | Solothurner Jura | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||||
29 Easy | ★★ Tutu-sullied Flesh | 15m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
Nice one. First try with great beta from Marty, but I think I've tried Temptation before years ago so guess it's not a flash.
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8a | ★★★ Slap and Tickle — 6 attempts | 26m, 14 | Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2024 | ||||
Vertical endurance, not my cup of tea. Anyway, awesome route!
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8a | ★★★ Alaska Kid — 3 attempts - with Andrea Graf | 30m | Voralpsee | Thu 11th Apr 2024 | |||||
IXc | ★★★ Migalhas Indecentes - with Camila Buttel, Caio Freitas, Eloah Gadas | 8 | Rio de Janeiro | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
8a | ★★ Just Call Me Helmet — 4 attempts | 23m, 8 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
8a | ★★ Elephant | 13m, 5 | Ton Sai | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | |||||
8a | Bizeps Junior | Guanacho | Fri 19th Apr 2024 | ||||||
7c+ |
★★★ Jack di cuori
— 2 attempts
1
7c+
| 28m | Avegno | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | |||||
probably more like 7c
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5.13b Hard | ★★ 天空之城 - with 羚羊, 手哥 | 28m, 10 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | |||||
在状态不好的时候完成线路
周6 先是秋哥保护爬了一把“扶朕起来”11b 热身,然后手哥保护爬 天空之城,第一个难点没过(抓了快挂),到了knee bar位置,发现右腿小腿酸的很,知道今天状态很不好,爬到最后的抠抠点,抠了几下手指就开始疼了,一顿按摩手指。后面又爬了两把,都是在第一个难点抓了快挂,最后一把到最后难点前的右手大点位置,右手都开始酸胀了。 周日 先是给在路上挂66大顺,基本上是一路拉着快挂上去的。之后手哥来了,他保护我爬天空之城,本来准备爬一把收掉快挂的 上线还是在第一个难点抓了快挂。跟手哥沟通,觉得自己太求稳了,稍微感觉不太有把握就去抓快挂了,根本就没有拼一下。手哥说让我降到平台,休息10几分钟再来一把。我坐在平台上脱掉鞋子,一边休息一边思考,觉得自己完全没有去尝试拼一下出手,自己太求稳了,稍微有点难出手就去抓了快挂,想到这一点我打算下一把一定要去拼一下出手,哪怕掉了也无所谓。10几分钟后上线,第一个难点拼了一下,果然过了。一直爬到最后一个难点出右手抓耳朵片片时脱落,拉着绳子上去细分了一下,感觉到把左手的4个手指都抠上那个小crimp点再出右手会稳很多。 中午睡了两觉,下午3点多上线,爬完前面8米的简单段到达第一个快挂,这次感觉到身体比上午轻松从容了很多,跟羚羊说:我感觉比上午状态好很多。心里想着这一把可能有戏。之后过了第一个难点,在中间裂缝区域有三个好休息点,最后一个难点也过了,顺利完攀。之后去顶绳爬了一把“五线谱”10d。 |
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29 | ★★★ Black Flag — 2 attempts - with Harley Mills | 15m | Nowra | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | |||||
29 | ★★★ Greed - with Joanna Lazniewska | 25m, 11 | Onkaparinga | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
Absolutely stunning route. Lots of techie sections linked together, where you can fall at any point, with a stopper move final dyno to the glory jug. Whilst a few people have ticked this route pretty quickly, I ended up spending about 15-20 sessions on it, so it was at my limit, so it felt pretty good to clip the chains today.
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8a | ★★★ Bon voyage | S' Estret | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | ||||||
8a | Txino tzapa | S' Estret | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ 油门踩到底 — 2 attempts | 18m, 13 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | ||||
29 ~28 | ★★ Sea Air | 10m | Blue Mountains | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||||
Don't think it deserves the 8a grade. 7c+ looks more appropriate for this. Anyway, a good one. Nice boulder problem with a tricky end. 🫡🫡
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9+ | ★★ Scursaru — 2 attempts | 10m | Cheile Turzii | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
Absolutely stunning route, worked on it last winter and came back to finish it off
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28 | ★★ Tomahawk | 18m, 6 | Mersey Cliffs | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | |||||
7c+ Easy | ★★★ Une folie meurtriere — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Vosges du Nord | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | |||||
The grades over the French border are noticeably less tough than in the German Pfalz. This route does have many far and dynamic moves in a very smooth wall over two small roofs. The holds are mostly very good edges, except for some crimps which are quite small. Probably fit my style very well, and did feel quite soft for the grade.
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7c+ | ★★★ Pour L´Amour - with buschlicht | 22m | Martinswand | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ | NN6 — 3 attempts | 5 | Tenerife | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ | Oriol - with Sam Pfeiffer, pinki | 35m | Montserrat | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Big Smile - with Gil Dvir | 29m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
What a fight ! I’m so happy to send that route !
I Fell so many time on the move to the Pinch , but I didn’t Gave up ! I’m so happy rn . Definitely a Big Smile 😃
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5.13a | ★★★ Bugs Bunny | 13m, 4 | Mt. Benson | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ Bugs Bunny | 13m, 4 | Mt. Benson | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c+ | ★ Rainbow | 22m | Mouzaki | ★ Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
Power endurance..
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7c+ | ★★★ FFMeuh | 30m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Mon 8th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c+ Easy | ★★ Zlokuchane — 2 attempts | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.13a | ★ CocaColastik — 3 attempts - with salmon | CORRENTOSO | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Baccarat King | Onkaparinga | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Meridian — 4 attempts - with eva herbst | 35m | Paschga | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ | ★ Melothanatoi — 2 attempts | Upper Pinios Valley | ★ Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
Just a crux(3moves)at the beginning and then resistance.easier than 7c+.Maybe 7b+/7c
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7c+ | ★★★ Yogi Line - with buschlicht | 30m | Kompanj | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ ~7c | ★★★ Fotznknecht — 2 attempts | Guanacho | Thu 18th Apr 2024 | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Princessa | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Fri 19th Apr 2024 | ||||||
28 | ★★ Bernie Loves Tofu - with jonah, Tom, Rizzle | 18m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | |||||
Cool boulder up high. Pretty diabolical though. Second shot
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7c+ | ★★★ Princessa — 3 attempts | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | ||||||
Climbed through the crux only to find some of the headwall moves were also cruxy. Good fight
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28 | ★★ The Great Escape - with Zalika VR | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Apr 2024 | ||||
Get horizontal!
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7c+ | ★★★ Dream Weaver - with Lucy Vo | 22m, 13 | Cat Ba Island | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
28 | ★★ Big Hit with the Kids — 3 attempts - with Stephanie Levesque | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
This one chewed all my skin! The sequence on the traverse is amazing (without using the resting jug on the left). Great route 🤩
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5.13a | ★★★ 青岛啤酒 Tsing Tao Beer | 27m, 12 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Apr 2024 | ||||
Amazing to be back on the rock after a few weeks of no climbing and tourist mode! Very wet season and some wet holds but it was amazing nevertheless
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7c+ ~7c | Chestainikio — 2 attempts | 30m, 11 | Alto Mijares | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | |||||
7b+\c
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7c+ ~7c | Pfizer | 35m, 14 | Alto Mijares | Mon 22nd Apr 2024 | |||||
7b+\c
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7c ~7c | ★★★ Il bucco — 2 attempts | 25m | Cevio | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c+ | ★★ Tetrix | S' Estret | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Disco | 16m, 7 | Unteres Inntal | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Animal Instincts Direct | 15m | Freycinet National Park | Mon 29th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.12+ ~5.12- | ★★★ Virus de Gallina Extensión — 3 attempts - with Maria Teresa Reyes Contreras | 30m, 12 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Sikadur — 3 attempts | 12m | Bellus-Alboy | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d ~5.12d | ★★★ Culo de la Negra (Extensión) — 2 attempts - with Maria Teresa Reyes Contreras | 43m, 20 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d | ★★★ In the Skin of a Lion - with Meredith Apple | 22m, 8 | Skaha | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | ||||
3 days and a bunch of tries but came together pretty fast! Stoked. Great power endurance cranking on small but positive edges. Stoked as hell.
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7c | ★ Urgent - with Mari | 25m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Could have been an onsight, but on the 9th day on I was happy to tick the route at all 😂
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7c | ★★★ Epifania — 3 attempts - with Hernan Varela | 30m, 13 | Piedra Parada | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d | ★★★ 1000 Year Old Nachos — 3 attempts - with 孟卓 | 25m, 12 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Le fil à plomb — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Vosges du Midi | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Apr 2024 | |||||
Could send it in my second try today. The weather was better than expected - sun almost all day, so cold fingers were not a problem anymore. I found the lower compression part the hardest, and almost fell there during the send.
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5.12d | ★★★ El caballero de piedra | Juntas | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c/c+ | Bombus L1 - with Ana Štritof | 30m | Blažčeva skala | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | |||||
5.12d ~5.13a | ★★★ Circo Romano | 13 | Las Chilcas | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Face to face | 20m | Sparchen | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★ Steinbruch - with Javi, Juli | 25m | Thunersee | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
(w qd) 2nd Go of the day + 7 tries in 3 sessions
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5.12d | ★★★ Plesiosaurus Extensión — 3 attempts | 30m | El Salto; C.d.G. | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2024 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Camel Filter | 22m, 8 | Onkaparinga | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
Great to finally send this! It went really smoothly. Classic route.
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27 | ★★ Onions - with Andy Brown, Lucy Stirling, Bob Brown | 20m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | ||||
5.12d ~5.12c | ★★★ Cafe con Leche — 3 attempts | 30m, 14 | La Presa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2024 | ||||
Increíble ruta. Tres pegues. En el último ya no creía que aguantaría mi piel, pero fluí chido y salió
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27 Easy | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 2 | Killiecrankie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 9th Apr 2024 | ||||
Seriously had to work for the 2nd day flash on this masterpiece of rock. Trad climbing doesn't get better. Steep, perfect rock, long, and I had to power scream on the last move because I didn't have good beta. Bloody fun day out.
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27 | ★★ White Linen | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | ||||
went right at the crux, still taking 27, cry about it
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27 | ★★★ Autophagocytosis | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | ||||
3rd shot. 2ez
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27 | ★★ Hip to the Bumper Crop | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | ||||
awesome. Best line at the brae and its not even the brae
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7c | ★★★ Baleine sous galet — 2 attempts | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Wed 10th Apr 2024 | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Sex symbol | 38m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Sex symbol — 2 attempts | 38m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 12th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c | ★★ Cuidado burocratas — 2 attempts | Alkiza | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Apr 2024 | |||||
27 | ★★ Hip to the Bumper Crop — 4 attempts - with Stephanie Levesque | 15m | Blue Mountains | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
27 | ★★ Head on a Stick - with Nathan Miles, Ella | 8m | Mt Coree area | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
Looks like ass, climbs suprisingly well especially at the top.
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7c | ★★★ Les rifougners | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||||
5.12d Easy | ★★★ 陈年老酒 - with 大兵 | 17m, 10 | 白河 Baihe | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
顶绳一把,先锋放快挂细摸动作一把,第三把红点。两个难点的线路,比较吃身高。12d减
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5.12d Easy | ★★★ Reinado de los Carroñeros — 2 attempts - with Stefano Nicetto | Corral de Piedra | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
de las mejores rutas de la perra existencia.
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27 | ★★ Warhorse — 2 attempts | 15m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
YES SIRRR I FINALLY GOT IT CLEAN YUUUUPPPPPPO
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7c | ★★ Synopsie — 2 attempts | 28m | Hữu Lũng | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
One big loose rock to avoid on the easy section and then some amazing climbing.
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27 | ★★ Gooey in the Wee-wee - with mike, Alex | 12m | Blue Mountains | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
About as good as a 10m face can get. Really rad moves
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7c ~7b+ | ★★ Anticiclonica — 2 attempts | 25m, 10 | Margalef | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
Muy buena, 7b+ segun la guía actualizada y va en orden. Ningun paso demasiado duro, resi en pockets pequeños
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7c | ★★★ Chuum u lueg - with Pius Do | 25m | Thunersee | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||||
7c | ★★★ Und ewig klingen die Kälber ... - with Silvio | 30m | Basler Jura | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | ||||
7c ~7c | FA ★★ Discombobulated - with Sara_S | 30m | Gäsi | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Apr 2024 | ||||
A fun journey this one.
Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉) Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb. A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans. Grade needs confirmation. |