Routes in Slovakia

Crossing Čulo Bulo to the left, corner, up through the overhang. You can use the anchor from Čulo Bulo. Top out.

1. Up and diagonally to right in slightly broken rock, assigned 4+, but feels a bit harder.

2. Straight up in perfect and structured stab/corner.

3. Straight up a hand crack then a delicate traverse to right (2 pitons)and straight up long finger crack (1 or 2 pitons).

Hard for technique, hard for moral, superb rock, exposition. Unforgettable.

1. Overhangs, 7-

2. Delicate corner (7), overhang (7-), original variant traverses a bit and goes easier ground (5+)

3. Face, 5+

4. Face 5

5. Corners, 4

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0261//02610809.p

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0575//05750903.p

https://tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0131//01310813.p

Crux is the 2nd pitch - delicate liebacking, next two pitches are strenuous, exposed and magnificent

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/stena.php?kod=09870818:Volia-ve%9Ea:2355

Two-pitch variant of 'Morální slabost':

1. Climb the overhanging crack (20m, 7)

2. Climb the pillar and grass section to the wall 3-5. Same as Morální slabost

The crack starts as hand/fist crack but widens up to almost 15cm. Bring big cams as it is fully trad. Belays are bolted. More info

http://www.lezec.cz/clanky.php?key=15142

It runs along 'Cez knihu', first through overhangs in base, later in left slab of the 'book' dihedral. Belays bolted, some bolts in the route. Rap off.

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//1056//10560719.p

The hardest parts are bolted. Some micro cams can be useful. More info: https://tatry.nfo.sk/stenam.php?kod=00230815:Baranie-rohy:2536

Compact blocks, but not looking very sound. Lots of lichens on the rock.

Sensitively bolted route in perfect rock and balanced difficulty. Belays bolted, descent in rap.

1. From grass band up easy slabs to another grass band (4)

2. Slightly left and straight up harder slab (6, 3 bolts)

3. Left and up along cracks in a steep wall with crux in climbing small bulges (7-, 5 bolts)

4. Up over grass ledge and straight up easy face (5, 2 bolts)

5. Easy pillar to the top of an arrete (4)

Perfect rock, the two crux pitches are really good - technique and moral.

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0131//01310815.p

Belays bolted, bolt in the crux - a superb overhanging corner with a layback crack

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0987//09870817.p

This is the most classic route here and often climbed.

1. Start with an obvious unique hand crack in a corner. The anchor is on pitons, you can skip it and connect the first two pitches (50-55m).

2. Continue up the corner, at the end exit to the right, 2-3m from the corner there is a bolted anchor on the ledge.

3. Straight up, slightly to the left, diagonaly. Bolted anchor on the ledge.

4. Head towards an obvious cross made from two cracks, easier to left, harder straight up (2m right and then up the shallow chimney). Anchor on bolts.

5. Traverse to the right on exposed ledge (Filmárská lavka) to a nice structured ledge. There is a bolt on the right 2-3m from the anchor, a sling and a piton. The next bolted anchor is on the right side of the ledge.

6. Go straight up and then climb across the slab diagonally to left below typical overhangs (Hokejka - hokey stick), 40m approx. Do not climb too close under the roof. You should find few pitons on the way. The anchor is few meters after a shallow corner.

7. Go straight up under the overhang. There are two pitons and one sling in the overhang.. Start straight. and tranverse the overhang to the right above the roof. Continue bit to the right and up the corner (often wet).

8. Continue up a corner, the bolted belay is under a narrow chimney. Even though you can skip this achor, I do not recommend it, because of the rope drag at the crux, which is at the end of the next pitch.

9. Up the chimney/corner, the crux is protected by a bolt with a sling (the crux is quite sandbag for 6+). There are plenty of pitons here, you don't need much gear, if any, just quickdraws.

10. Go up a water-polished chimney into Lievik (funnel). This part is threaten by flash flood in thunderstoms and accidents have been reported here. Start in the left chimney (pitons), you can exit to the right on the pilar (piton), or continue the narrow chimney..

11. Climb up to the summit in easier ground (2-3). Belay on the fence.. It more than 60m, you can cllimb few meters simultaneously.

Belays are bolted.

Superior quality of rock. Belays bolted, two bolts in crux places, otherwise trad, but reasonable gear placement.

Delightful delicate climb in slabs with use of crack systems that leads you through steep slabs. Grade feels good. In spring you may find water flowing down from melting snow, summer and fall is the ideal time to visit.

From the anchor of Krkavčia to the left under the first overhang, corner, and then through the second overhang

Pitches:

5, 6

Bolted belays, few bolts and pitons in the route. Rap off the route. The crux on a dihedral is very nice.

From the first belay do not take the original bolted line on right, but go straight up following crack systems and later head left to the next belay.

Po nemecky rezbrik

This is told to be the first ascent made partly from top. On their first attempt, Orlowski and Goslawski made it almost to the gallery, but they got stuck below overhangs some 15m from the gallery ledge. Due to late hour, they rapped and returned few days later. Now they rapped from the gallery to where they ended on their first attempt and finished the climb almost at the eve on WWII. Later Orlowski returned to make the climb from base in a single day.

The climb runs in perfect rock, feels hard for the grade and brings you in exposure.

Od třetí délky pokračujeme lehce hřebenem a žlabem na vrchol.

http://www.tatry.nfo.sk/cesta.php?obr=stity//0875//08750703.p

7 pitches of grade 6 climbing. Beautiful view. Hard climbing