Routes as sport in Nepal

Easy but quite run-out.

Fun new route, following the central chimney in the middle of the crag. Best bolted and least run-out route on the crag.

Easy but run-out.

Mostly 5c with a 6a crux.

5c ledgy climbing with 2 6a cruxes.

at least 3 bolts

at least 4 bolts

at least 3 bolts

Can be made easier by using some good holds a bit on the left side of the route

There are at least two major variations on this route: one keeping to the right and one keeping to the left. The one to the right that follows the arrete like feature to the top is probably the easiest route on the whole crag, maybe 5b. The one to the left is somewhat trickier, maybe 5c+

at least 6 bolts

Without using the huge handholds away and right.

As the name suggests.

New route between "The Belly" and "Route 7". It has its own start and after the third bolt it’s shares a short section of "Route 7" and then it continues straight up to its own anchor (anchor is about 5 meters higher then the one of "Route 7").

Route branches left below the final grey tufa with a separate bolt on the left side of the tufa. The anchor is well above the grey tufa. Shares the anchor with the right variation.

Pass the final grey tufa to the right for this harder variation. The right side of the tufa has a separate bolt. The anchor is shared with the left variation and is well above the grey tufa. The lower route can also be fully climbed on the face to the right of the bolt line, avoiding several of the good pockets on the left side. 6c+ at 8a.nu.

Really nice crack crux.

A bolted route that starts at the left hand edge of the black face.

First route on the far left side of the wall. A good warm up. Anchor is just below a large tree at the top of the pitch. Furthest route to the left on the wall. Has a fresh 1 painted in yellow and green at the base.

Another good warm out route. Second route on the wall. Have a #2 painted at the base and is the obvious bolt line to the right of the painted #1.

One the left face, third line of bolts from the left. Follows a left leaning crack that felt a bit slippery in spots.

On the left face near a lighter colored crack from water run off. Route 5 follows that stain directly, route 4 is the bolt line up the face to the left with shared anchors. Slightly more challenging than the 4c to the left. A few tricky and slippery spots.

On the left face. Follows the lighter colored rock up the water run off groove. Very slippery rock from the water run off, particularly before the first bolt. Gets easier with more features near the top. Shares anchor with route 4.

On the left side of the rock face. The darker colored rock just to the right of a lighter colored water run off. A #6 is painted at the base. Possibly the hardest route here. Slightly overhanging, slippery and relatively blank face to the right of the water run off on the left side of the wall. 1st bolt cut? May need to stick clip to reach the upper bolts. Lowest bolt may be cut, stick clip probably a good idea for this one.

On the left middle face, the left most of three bolted lines. Has a large pocket near the first bolt. For some reason, butterflies seem to like this pocket. On the left middle face, left most of the three. A nice pocket but poor and slippery feet, especially after your shoes get a little clay on them from walking around the base! Get much easier after the lower crux.

Directly above the Number 8 painted on the wall. Nice climb.

One arms length to the right of the number 8 painted on the wall. Nice features, favorite route on this wall.

First route right of the three routes with 7 and 8 painted below them. Pleasant route with a couple ways to pull the crux.

Follows a broken crack in the lower angled bowl to the left of the chimney and right of the harder routes on the middle left face. 3m to the left of a larger tree growing part way up. In the center of the broad face/ crack about 5m to the left of the chimney. Easy crack with great holds and one tricky spot near the last bolt.

Two routes left of the chimney. Easy low angle to a few moves just before the anchors.

Can't miss it. Look for the big chimney. This is probably the most distinct and fun route in the area. Start at the base of the prominent chimney. The bolts for this route run along the right side. Stem your way up. You need to climb up to clip the 4th bolt (works best of you extend this one), then move down a bit and traverse left. The next small, bulging section is the crux. Follow on through to the easy climbing. There is one more small bulging section to climb through right before the anchor.

The narrow face right of the chimney and left of the arete. Climbs to the left of the arete and right of the chimney. Probably best done as a top rope after climbing the chimney ("Route 14") since the bolts are mostly on the other side of the arete shared with route 16. Anchor shared with route 14

4+4 bolts. From the chimney, walk downslope to the right face. Route 15 and 16 climb the arete on the right of the chimney. First pitch of route 17 heads directly up the face. Gets you above treeline to see Kathmandu and Swayambhunath at the second anchors. Totally worth it. Second pitch is the crux pitch

Kakani lies 29 km northwest of Kathmandu on the road to Trisuli. From the hill-top, excellent views can be had of Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Gauri Shanker. This has one small climbing rock with 6 routes. The rock is only about 20 meters, but quite challenging. There is also an outdoor climbing wall in the Mountaineering park nearby.

The leftmost line #1.

#2

#3

The first of the three 'ABC' routes between the routes numbered 3 and 4 on the wall. The ABC routes are accessible via a cable way leading up to the belay place. This is the leftmost line of bolts (6 bolts).

The second of the three 'ABC' routes between the routes numbered 3 and 4 on the wall. The ABC routes are accessible via a cable way leading up to the belay place. This is the middle line of bolts (6 bolts).

The third of the three 'ABC' routes between the routes numbered 3 and 4 on the wall. The ABC routes are accessible via a cable way leading up to the belay place. This is the right-most line of bolts (6 bolts).

#4

#5

The right-hand variation.

#6

#7

#8

#9

#10

#11

#12

#13

The rightmost line #14.

Enjoyable climbing though a bit dirty. Bridge up the initial corner then move out on the arete.

Easy up the arête.

Easy, but long and exposed traverse.

Up the slab traversing right to the middle line of bolts. First anchor a few meters before the end of the slab up the route slightly right of the bolt line. One additional anchor only 5m off the ground, just after the traverse.

Beautiful vertical climbing.

Up the last part of the slap, then slightly overhanging on good holds to the top.