Routes as trad in Jasper National Park

From the end of pitch 1 on "Right of Way" climb right up a slab to the next higher ledge. High ground fall potential. NOT RECOMMENDED UNTIL BOLTED.

No Pro. NOT RECOMMENDED UNTIL BOLTED

Deviation route out right from second pitch of "Layback Route"

A lot of unprotected wandering

Pitch 4 & 7require some route finding. The rest are fairly obvious. As described in guidebook, pitch 6 is stellar, too bad there is not more of it.

Up grassy slopes to steep part of wall

Weak rock

A beautiful climb established ground up and protected solely on solid natural pro with single bolt and piton anchors. The pitches get harder as you climb.

1. Locate a fixed piton at the base of the route and follow a faint corner system up to the obvious black corner above. Belay from a bolt and finger sized gear at a comfortable stance. (62m, 5.8)

2. Climb the black corner which takes gear up to a #5 BD Camalot. Belay at a ledge with a bolt and good nuts. (30m, 5.10b).

3. Traverse right along the ledge and up the right of two cracks in a slightly overhanging wall. Pull a small roof to a sustained wall with pods before exiting right through blocks. Scramble to a two-piton belay. (35m, 5.11c).

An excellent 4 or 5 pitch route with variations. All stations are fixed with 55m raps. A Standard rack to 3 inches is required.

1. Start at an obvious weakness to the right of Chocolate Cake trending right to a bolt and piton anchor. (55m, 5.5R)

2. Continue up weakness to the base of a corner and steeper rock belaying from a single bolt and gear. (30m, 5.6R)

3. Climb the corner to the next ledge system and a two-bolt anchor 10m up and left from the ledge. (30m, 5.10a)

4. A few variations exist here however this is the most well known. Head left into a corner and then follow a crack left of the corner to a big ledge. (55n, 5.9).

5. Step right to get into a corner with big loose blocks, climbing up to a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. (30m, 5.8).

The classic route of the area. This is the obvious, bright orange left facing corner you can easily spot from the carpark. The climbing is fun with solid rock and gear. A single rack to #3 is required with a few doubles in the medium sizes. A #4 BD camalot is can be handy as well. A bolted anchor is found on the obvious ledge to your right 30m up the corner.

Some old bolts.

A very short gear route opposite the chimney on Centre Stone. Rarely, if ever, climbed.

A short tricky climb in the obvious crack feature near the arête of the Centre Stone. Rarely, if ever, gets climbed.

Bolted anchors

Located on the far left cliff band approximately in the middle. The climbing follows a broken left-facing corner before tackling roofs higher up. The start is marked by a bolt line heading up and through a roof before heading to the first corner.

P1) Follow bolts through the roof and then head to the corner which takes good gear to more bolts and a belay at the top of a shattered column. 25m, 5.9.

P2) Follow the corner which takes gear for about 6m before breaking right. Follow bolts through the roof before tackling shallow double cracks. Easier slab climbing leads to a hanging belay. 22m, 5.10d.

P3) Head right on bolts to the corner. Climb the corner to find a bolt line on the arete following this until you can climb further right to another corner. Keep heading right to get through the last big roof and an anchor just right after it. 28m, 5.10c.

P4) Follow some bolts to a large corner which takes gear before heading up an easy slab and the top anchors. 23m, 5.10a.

Descend by rapping the route.